 Here you go Arthur
http://www.modelimagesonline.co.uk/
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Made a silly mistake, but luckily caught it in time !!! I had installed and screwed the rear wheel assembly in the wrong place, DOH (in my best ~Homer Simpson voice). As you can see by the red lines, I had to move the unit down, but luckily I could use two of the existing holes. Another bit of luck was being able to eventually remove the rear former so I could get at the thing..... Could have been nasty if I hadnt spotted it now, reminder to brain, think twice next time, before allowing hands to make mistakes... Still the rest has gone ok, I installed the CF pushrods using 3mm threaded rods, and large 3mm ball links. The other end goes to two servos (one for each elevator), although I've used the standard nylon servo arms to get the rods to the right length etc, I'll probably change these for Ally ones latter.
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Nipped down to Mickey-d's for some fodder, and snaffled a hand full of straws, then used 5 of them push into each other to thread the servo wires down to the tail for the rudder servo. Also installed a large Snake for the tail wheel, got to get all this done before I can move on and sheet the rest of the fuse.
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Had a rather busy time this weekend on family matters, but today at least I got the fin and rudder installed so its looking like an aircraft now.
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Graham, Thank you for address, SBD is lookin' good!. havent lost the excitment, Build on Bro,Build on.
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Just a quick update:
I'm almost finished sheeting the bottom of the fuse, will try and get some pictures tonight
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Still sheeting the bottom of the fuz, but it looks like a Dauntless now
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A truly interesting blog.
Learnt something about ammonia, and bending.
Obviously an accurate buider, spirt levels etc.
Keep it up
Erfolg
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GrahamD, As a fairly oldish timer at 77,I look back at the times long past when I enjoyed making and 'throwing' (hand launching) those Aero's of the past,when ROG came along wow! we felt like real pro's. now I follow your building of the Dauntless I am so excited for your continued excellence in the build and descriptions,Well done Graham.
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 Brill Graham, been away a week but she's coming along nicely.
David.
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Thanks for the nice comments and welcome to my Dauntless build. I've now fuel proofed the engine bay and areas around it, as well as painting the inner exhaust areas matt black. Now I've sheeted the front side around the working exhaust ports. Couldnt resist just checking the cowl aligns with the guns ok.
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Finished the sheeting of the exhaust ports today And made/carved the rear wheel housing
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I can't believe it took me on and off most of the day, well a few hours at least, to carve then hollow out the tail cone section from solid 2" block balsa. I've also started painting some of the inside.
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As the firewall is just barely thick enough, I've added an extra 5mm just for safety sakes. And have now installed the ZG45 so I can work out the plumbing and the throttle links (Eagle eyed viewers will notice the throttle arm has been changed to a more convenient arm).
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I didn't want to trust my new baby to a damn slide switch, even if its claimed to be "heavy duty", so I'm going to use a nice toggle switch (with locking arm) rated at 6Amps. I got mine from SM Services, but you can also get them from RS Components. To switch it on/off you have to lift the lever over a gate, so its 100% positive, and can't be accidentally switched on/off. I also got some 6Amp multi-stranded wires in JR colours as I use JR radio, except I couldn't find brown, so black will have to do. After cutting and stripping off 5mm of the pvc covering, the strands are twisted to form a neat bunch. The wire was then "tinned" (applied solder). The wire is then cut and trimmed to fit into the copper recess in the switch (I'm using both Black & Red on the switch, so I'm switching both positive and negative), and soldered together. The center two terminals of the switch (+ & -) go to the battery, and the other two go to the receiver and the other two to the charger socket. Slide some heat shrink tubing over the wires and Voila
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I was amused to see the plan makes reference of a "FGlass" cover over the front top guns, yet no one offers one as a part  So being rather a complex shape, I elected to use strips and plank the top instead.
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Graham...Sheesh et Voila!! she builds Mon Ami.... Beautifully of course!
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 Graham Fantastic build sequence and pictures! So many build reports come with blurred, darl images that could be a plane or a boat or shelves. Very impressed. Keep up the good work. A plane that well built just has to fly brilliantly. AlistairT
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Thanks guys, I hope this thread is all about sharing tips and info, I'm just your average joe builder, I just happen to love building. I've had a play with the wings today, well the centre section, and the first thing I needed to do as its all ply and cyparis was add some hard balsa 1/4" x 1/4" blocks using CA (I can knock/cut these off latter), so I can pin the assembly down. I also drilled some extra holes in the center ribs for servo wires etc And using some more McDonalds plastic drinking staws threaded through the drilled holes, I have somewhere neat to slide my servo cables. By the way I just sussed out I need 10 servos in the wings alone !!!! Guess I'm deffo going to be going with a 6volt battery and at least 3000mha capacity.
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 What beautiful work. I built a Puppeteer once and it took two years and nearly killed me. I have nothing but admiration for your patience, well done. I'll follow this one to the end. I do have a worry though. The solder joints on that switch look like prime targets for vibration induced failure. I read in our hallowed mag within the last year that full size avionics builders never or rarely solder for this reason. Instead they crimp. ( when I had a motorbike all the joints we crimped and they went wrong all the time! ) I bet you've done it like that for ever with no problems, but your work looks So wonderful it would be awful to lose it to a switch. It scares me to think of how our models are so dependent on an electricity supply. Wicked thread mate, keep it up!
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