Theres a bit of pride and skill going in to this one.

Very nice.

It's refreshing to see the inside of an aeroplane under construction for a change rather than a shiny ARTF looking like an advertisment (even if the reviewer has had problems during the "assembly" but no pictures of the offending part) that appear in the model press these days. (Hint hint David!)

I've had a Brian Taylor Bf 109E on the go for about 2 years but it's getting there!

Although I fly a lot of ARTF's now the pride isn't there, I've spent the last 40 years building from kits and plans so I envy you in my time poor world (I mourned the day when it changed from the SMAE to the BMFA. Flying your creation was the iceing on the cake in those days)

I still love to build from a pile of flat sticks when I get the chance! (Chris Golds drives me mad!!) Roll on retirement thats what I say!

 Anyway that enough of me moaning!

I do tend to agree with Doug on the switch soldering. It  would be much better to switch the red (or the black) only, and use both poles of the switch. that way you build in some redundency.

It's also sometimes better to use clear heatshrink so you can inspect the soldered joint from time to time. (It will always break at the end of the solder thats wicked up the copper wire.

 PS you wouldn't need to worry about the aerial wire if you were on 2.4Ghz! 

Thanks for the kind thoughts, the suggestions on the switch & wires have been digested, thanks.

 Picked up my supply of wood yesterday at the nats, so I could get the wing put down.

I also made up a servo holder for the main center flap

I not only epoxied the servo blocks I also screwed them for extra measure

I've now got the first servo for the center flap installed and working, the ball-link operates the rod via the trailing edge of the wing, so no links are visable.

The other factor in the equation of wires and breaking is the composition of the wire, but lets not go there, thats a whole thread on its own.

 Rather than have multiple servo plugs and extensions, I'm going to run all the cables & wires through to one "D" type connector located in the front top of the wing.

I am curious, is there such a thing as "active/acid" cored solder.

If there is, who is the target group? 

It just seems an atractive proposition to me. From time to time an active solder would be useful, soldering steel, tin plate. I have used Frys flux, but you need to clean realy well, be quick with the flux ( to prevent oxidation) and if you put to much heat into the peices the flux burns, runs (less effective) etc.

Yet liquid active flux is a bind to store, when you use it a little as I do.

With interest

Erfolg 

Sorry Flanker, it had been a long day!

 A good supply of real imperial wood is Balsa cabin in Maldon Essex.

Real 1/16 not the metric equlivent (1.5 mm which is thinner) and they'll select and grade it for you as well if you ask them.

 Not to detract from Grahams build, it's nice to see a decent bit of workmanship.....But.

Major manufacturers all solder their switches, but they support them somewhere down the wire away from the solder joint to prevent flexing of the joint.

I always crimp my servo connectors that I make up, but solder the switch's together ( what else but Multicore solder!)

Used to mend Buccaneers myself (Fly Navy!) now I mend Boeings.

 Remember: It's not a big job........ just a thousand small ones!

Erfolg.

Go down to your local plumbers store and get some flux used for drinking water pipes.

(Copper ones obviously!!)

It stores for ages and works a treat. (But remember to wash it off afterwards!)

Cheers

Now you see it, and some time tonight you wont!!!, Hopefully

Just spent a good hour selecting, cutting and joining the 4" sheets together (but joined with pva), just got to wait till they dry

Bummer, glues still wet, never mind time to move on with installing the servo wires.

Erfolg,

"Multicore" solder has a resin flux inside but can be corrosive over time that was the reason we wern't allowed to use it in the air force. A good active flux (if you can still get it) is "Bakers Fluid", came in a screw-top tin and was the veritable dogs dodads for cleaning tin-plate for making fuel tanks.

Getting back to the main topic, the big build is fairly racing along!

Doug

I agree that "Bakers Fluid" is a very good active flux. I just do not find it convienant for the amount of steel, tin plate soldering I do.

I have a good few Kgs of cored solder, from the electrics/electronics industry. I just felt that  an active cored solder would sometimes be better. Although you ususlly coat the surfaces to be joined with flux (as I know you know), so I am not sure how an active cored solder would work, ie the surface potentially would oxidate before flux would run.

I always assumed that cored solder used on "end feed fittings" was just the same stuff we used in the electrical industry, but with a precoatings of a Frys type flux on the copper, to prevent oxidation before the resin and solder melted. Is it different?

Regards

Erfolf 

Gt the top sheeting on (now the glues dry), just need to give it a light sand, and on with the wireing.

Quick Drum roll.

Drrrrrrrrrr, Drrrrrrrr

oh and that trampalene is 15 foot across

Master Builder,

Can you show some pictures as you progress with the wiring, I for one would like to see how you go about it, particularly the other end of the "D" connector?

I think the soldering thing has come to a conclusion; this is after all your build thread.

Why have all the "bits " got black edges ? I'm not sure what cutting device you're using but I think it's time it was cleaned  

Grumpy with his Stanley (clean) knife   

Wires on the back of my connector (stripped, tinned and soldered), with sleeving.

And after I've epoxied them (used tape around the wires, and poured epoxy in), before I sheet the bottom, the wires will also be epoxied to wood braces, ensuring none of them can either work loose or break due to vibration or external forces.