Don't Worry Now Im Back indoors from garden toil. Im catching up on the build, great work. The last time I saw one built it was in the Late 60's early 70's that was in an aeromodeller mag I think?
Thanks, Eric and Walt,.............. the next "step" is to Sheet the bottom the wing , once you are satisfied that all rods, and servo's are in place, working correctly. NOW, "blending" the nacelle to the wing, the pic above shows the start of the "hatch""hatch formers" are lightly glued and spaced (1/16) out , enough to "cut " through when the whole top is "planked". Draw ,in pencil , the outline of the wing/nacelle and proceed to apply the 1/16 strips, until it is all done.
It's quicker to tell story than to build IT,...............I took day's ( actually weeks) trying how to make the cowl's, Thought's where ..... mould in f/glass, make a foam block covered in f/glass, all this time ,keeping in mind the finshed result. I.E IS it going to "blend" into the spinner, it has to be correct shape to the rest of the nacelle...........SO this is what I did........copied the F2. former shape onto 1/16 ply, reduced that shape by 3/32.and "spaced "out 1/16 lightly glue to F2. Reposition the eng's , by this time the Fus. and Wing have got to be a happy couple, once again align the model, on your trusty table making sure that the eng "thrust line" is still at 0 deg, OK.., your happy. With the FT former, secured onto the eng mounts, proceed. Using scrap 1/4 soft balsa sheet fill in between the 2 former's in a general spacing, I used 8, then sand and shape these pieces to the required shape , easy eh.Now you have a "backbone of the cowl , remove the cowls and finish filling it the gaps with 3/32 soft strips, all that is now required is to sand down and fill. When all of that is done using dremel and sand paper reduce the internal of the cowl's to your liking.
OK, this the last of the pic's for now, as you have seen in the eariler one's, but it is ready for final finishing, before colour, as I write........ The U/C door is a piece of block( yea I know , waste,but I can get both sets of doors out of it )but again I thought long and hard on it, the black line on the flap is, of course carbon strands,epoxied on top of a strip of 1/8 ply to give the 3/16 flap strength, the spinners are the only short ones I could find, I know they are the wrong shape at the tip, But........what else can a fellow do?. Barry. Ps.... yea, I have in the gaps!
OK, the " how to make, design anget them F.... wheels up, and to fit + the doors to close..... some you have different ideas BUT this how I am doing it..... firstly ( hours of thought)you have to get the distance of the ground the wheel's have to be, in a "take off attitude". Ok, with the nacelle plan, pinned to a cork/soft surface, look at where the Width, that is available to "hinge the main legs of the U/C, on the whirly I req, no less than 45mm. Lets recap Height off ground , main leg hinging point.The next thing to work out is where the "gear rear point is going to hinge, DO not OVER CROWD the nacelle, becuase the wheel's must go up and down without interferece. OK you have this point,....NOW over the nacelle plan pin down "strips of balsa" pretend that they are the "leg's", pinning down the two important hinge point's and the wheel axle line, adjust the support rod hinging positions until you get the desired results. It works!!!. AS a "scale nut" the cost of having someone built this for me was an issue( $1000.00aus). thank goodness for Ebay. I managed to procure a "mini lathe" (well worth it for 1/3 the price) A "write up" was in the mag a few months ago, "good gear", If you don't think it is affordable " chum up someone who has one. the next step is to make all of the hinge's, The "lock down point still has me a little confused ..... maybe smeone can help?? the basic materials are 1/8th rod and 4mm squ. "keysteel". ( for keyways in machinery). Ok the pic below show's the Whirly U/C........ Barry
Regarding the 'lock down' arrangement, the best I can suggest is to look how your elbow works, and try to figure something along those lines. I'm thinking that the two sections should go very slightly over-centre then be mechanically stopped from further deflection.
Thanks Eric & Tony, yea I thought that was the idea, but I was hoping for input from those "who have done it", maybe it's a "scaler's secret, nobody but I know, and I ain't tell'em nobody". IF you know ?, WELL, when I "work it out" ...... EVERYBODY will know, YEA.... Barry. Tony, poss. Xmas.
Dear Barry could please advise as to where you obtained the page of pictures & exploded veiw of the Whirlies U/C, was it perhaps an old Proflie Publication? though I don't recall seeing it, albeit a long time ago. Thanks for the thread, as you are very though. Cheers for now Ant
Antnee, the glossy publication is from " +4 publication, their email address- mark1@cmail.cz it is full of pic's and info. 30 pages. cost a few $ but ............ other info, "Profile Publication" # 191, "Kookaburra Technical Publications, Aeroplane Monthly, and online aircraft encylopedia.... David, a "spelling checker" would be great.... for us who are not so literate, wouldn't look so illiterate...... Barry
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