If you have any 2s packs, you could always couple them up in series, and also 1 x 3 and 1 x 2 of course gives you a 5s for trials too. Even if the capacity is low it would do as a test - then , when you decide which is best.... buy some large capacity jobs. I use 2 x 3200 4s in parallel for the Camel, which will give me very long flight times - the weight is no problem as it needs ballast anyway! Because of this... I may well end up using A123s....or even ( speaks in hushed tones ) - NiMh !!

Hi Danny.... interesting.... what did the extra pitch do to your already overworked ESC

Hi Timbo, this was the Hurricane so plenty of room for increasing the amperage. But judging by the amount of energy used it decreased the load once the airframe was moving. I was able to fly at about third throttle and have good airspeed, slower prop more efficient. And don't think I didn't catch that little comment....... You put NiMh's in your camel and you are off my Christmas list...........

Shaun be careful if you use smaller capacity packs as Timbo suggests, it will put you in the ballpark, you will be find however the higher capacity packs will hold their voltage better under higher loads so with higher capacity cells the performance should be even better, not so much volts drop.

sounds like another great thread??

Ah... sorry thought it was the Sea Fury  - could it  be because this is the sea fury thread ? LOL

I mentioned the NiMhs simply because I have a box full of 4000 mahr puffin hiflow cells here, and they need a home - the Camel comes with a huge ballast box, and it is common for peeps to put in up to 1.5 lb of lead ! Yikes

Now dont know about you but I hate the thought of adding dead weight and avoid it like the proverbial, having the cells already, and feeling the credit crunch at the moment ( my company pension does NOT increase at the same pace as fuel, gas, electric, food, etc etc !! ) buying yet more rather pricey A123s is not an option

Good point about the low capacity cells, and yes I was only suggesting a quick burst to get a feel for the right cell count / prop size before splashing the cash on "proper batteries ". I usually calculate Lipos at 3.5V average under load however the Camels 2 x 3200 packs hold a whopping 3.9V each at WOT pulling 42A on a 16 x 10, giving 600 watts static for around 70 watts per pound, and an estimated 15 - 20 mins flight time.

Heres some "before and after" shots showing My new Fury next to Dannys refinished example. Really shows how much he's done.

Well Danny your blog has inspired me. Shaun’s got me interested and all my planes are electric so your just push me over the edge. Picked up the kit today and just unwrapped it NICE…..

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The dealer tells me the price is going up but he could not tell my why, but he held the price at £105….

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Checked out HK site and a few others for the running gear. Just got the Pete’s pilot will be ordering the rest over the week.

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You’er right the front of the fuss is just right for A123 and Puffin Models do made up packs, never used them before only Li-Po’s, here goes another learning curve.  

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Never used Scotchbrite, do you need to prime the surface first?

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Do you use ic props or electric when they are so big?

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Just seen how that desplayed sorry.....

Try again

Well Danny your blog has inspired me. Shaun’s got me interested and all my planes are electric so your just push me over the edge. Picked up the kit today and just unwrapped it NICE…..

The dealer tells me the price is going up but he could not tell my why, but he held the price at £105….

Checked out HK site and a few others for the running gear. Just got the Pete’s pilot will be ordering the rest over the week.

You’er right the front of the fuss is just right for A123 and Puffin Models do made up packs, never used them before only Li-Po’s, here goes another learning curve.  

Never used Scotchbrite, do you need to prime the surface first?

Do you use ic props or electric when they are so big?

Hi Stephen,

great glad you are going to give it a go.

I don't get to fly much but the Fury has had 14 flights now and I really enjoy it. If you want to fly scale then my set up is okay for about 7 minutes. if you use a lot of power then you may be down to 4 - 5 minute flights. so be warned. The fuselage is easily large enough for you to double up the pack and make it a 8s2p then you would easily get 15 mins scale. I am tempted to try it but would need to borrow Chris's pac to give it a go, the c of g will mean the packs will have to move to the back of the tank bay but should be okay.

Electric props are much more efficient so I should stick with them, I used a 15 x 10 but would like to try a 15 x 12 but haven't yet.

Scotchbriting is pretty straightforward, soft gentle circles with the green variety, make sure that it is completely matt everywhere and the warbird colors sticks like you wouldn't believe.

If you use the mechanical retracts as Chris and I have, make sure you take the play out with the adjusters, and if you fit the doors beef up the pushrods otherwise they will flex as mine did and not lock the wheels up. I soldered a second length of piano wire alongside the first, was an easy fix, gluing the existing piano wire inside a length of carbon tube would also work well, just leaving the threads out the ends.

Add your build to this thread or start another, be good to see how you get on.

Any questions just ask

Danny

just when you thought this was all done and dusted? no chance.

The Fury has had 15 flights so far, one flight was very short as the arming Deans decided it would go open circuit, anyway retracts were also powered from the pack so a forced belly landing, no damage resulted.

I am really enjoying flying it at scale speeds, if you flew it like a bat out of hell I guess I would get four minutes, but at scale speeds with a few barrel rolls, chandelles, and a loop I can get a comfortable six minutes.

Anyway as you may know the power is via a 8 cell A123 pack giving around 1100 watts on a 15 x 10 @ 7000 rpm.

After a bit of playing in the garden with Chris, its amazing what you can get up to armed with loads of props, cells, wattmeters, tachos and the like. Anyway to cut a long story short, if we drop down to 6 cells but in parallel we can double the capacity to 4600. The drop in volts means we need to up the prop size to get the required power back, obviously this entails a slight rise in current. My super Simple 50A ESC would never cope with the expected 60 - 70 A so it will be replaced with a Super Simple 70A lol still cheap as chips  The result we hope will be a flight duration of well in excess of 10 minutes.

So the figures are around 70A on a 19 x 10 yep a BIG prop, giving around 1000 watts, but we are not going to use the 19 x 10 we are going to use this:

This is made from two and a half 14 x 7 APC-e props, the hub is made from two 2024 T3 alloy discs, each blade is secured by a single 3mm nyloc'd bolt. There will be an old hub in the centre so that things don't get distorted when the prop nut is tightened. The prop ends up as a 16 x something. the reason it is not a 7 pitch is because the blades are an inch further from the hub than they were so the pitch has increased dramatically. We haven't spun this up yet so I do not know what currents its going to pull. To give us an idea a 4 bladed 16 x 10 that we made by just fitting two props one on top of the other pulled 61A. I would expect this 5 blader to be around the mid 60's, but unload dramatically in the air.

Danny

Like the look of that, if it works may be use black 'master' props to give it even more scale like qualities.....

 I've painted the beast.. holding back on ordering the motor etc.. until my next big job comes in.. working in construction and things are very slow at the moment..

Hi Stephen, I only use master airscrews for stirring paint, they are not very efficient, nor quiet. APC props are nicer. J'EN do a nice range of wooden props. These electric props are very efficient and really are best for these models. I have tried others but these unload so well in the air, which reduces current and they are great at low rpm. You wouldn't want to subject this hub to anything more than 6000 rpm

we spun it up today and it tracks true and doesn't have any funny vibrations. We were indoors so didn't risk more than 1/3 rd throttle, but it looks terrific. The vacformed spinner was at home when I got back. Roly Hamblin at Sarik Vacform has come up trumps with a rather nice spinner, thanks Roly you are a star!

I will post another picture when the prop is painted and spinner sorted.

Danny

Thx Timbo, parraleling the pack has pushed the flying weight up to 10lb 7oz  Hope to try it on Friday

Just hope ithe prop doesn't fly apart lolol And don't worry nobody will be near it when it is spun up, and I will most definitely be well behind it! 

Returning to the subject of repainting the Sea Fury,

Am intending to give mine a light wipe over with primol and repaint with acrylic paint.

Paint used on British Military Aircraft is to British Standard Colours, those used on this aircraft being:

Extra Dark Sea Grey:  BS640-381C ,  Sky: BS210-381C.

Have had my paint mixed by a local paint shop but any good paint shop is able to mix BS paints in acrylic or enamel. In fact have even had emulsion,for use on foam models, mixed in match pots by B&Q.     

Mine is done with acrylic paint? warbird colors, from fighteraces. I scotchbrited the surface, not sure how well prymol will work. You also have to remember that an afternoon in the sun (what sun I hear you cry) will make the film wrinkle. The warbird colors coped fine with being reshrunk. I used half a tin of each color to do mine. at about £6 a tin, so I didn't think it was too bad. As you say Golf Kilo Extra dark sea grey and Sky.

Look forward to seeing how you get on.

PS if you are using IC then you will have to fuel proof, warbirdcolors IS fuelproof

Ought to be on commision

Danny

My A/C will be electric as are all of my other A/C.  Have been using Prymol, which is designed for etching plastic, for some years with no ill effect.  As my preference is for Naval Aircraft the tendency is to buy the paint by the 1/2 litre which costs £9.40, however smaller quantities are availlable with a match pot costing about  £1 which is enough to paint several A/C.

Scratch built A/C are normally covered in silver or grey film etch primed and then painted.

So far have built, covered, primed and painted a Firefly, Sea Mosquito,Sea Fury,FW190 and aTA154 using this method with acrylics and enamels as well as numerous foamies using emulsions.

The  only difficulty as yet unsolved is that of producing lettering and decals. At present am still using Leteraset

Oh I see well you are much further along then I am, I haven't built so many models. I do build my own and am half way through a BT Mustang, but the Fury was my first effort at spraying over film. I would rather use tissue and dope, though I am going to try glass on the mustang.

I didn't realise that places like B and Q were able to mix colors to the BS numbers I will have to try that one day.

As for lettering - I bought a plotter and cut my own stencils, then airbrush them. I have done adhesive graphics for the odd club member, but I prefer to use paint through a mask. If you get really stuck for some drop me a line and i will do some for you?

Danny