 Hi all, I've noted that both in the RCM&E magazine and among various comments on this forum some people have noted that the silver Solarfilm is "easier to put on" than the other solid colours. If you are one of those converted to using Silver Solarfilm because it's easier to use I'd love to hear why. Is it stickier, softer, more stretchy etc??? To complicate things further I sent the same query to info@solarfilm.co.uk and got the following reply: "Thank you for your enquiry for our materials. Silver Solarfilm is not easier to apply than other colours - it could be a personal feeling. Practice is everthing." Now I'm confused - the people say yes and the manufacturer says no... I'd love to hear your comments on this as I'm not too far away from thinking seriously about the covering of my Tony Nijhuis designed 63" Spitfire.
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 Hi, I have found that you have to be more careful with silver because it is easy to scar and mark the film.You have to apply it with softness ,i use a iron sock on mine to help stop marking it. But, if you intend to paint over the silver film, it doesn't really matter, you can apply it the same as the other colours. Being careful is the same on all metallics. vince
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 I think this is mythology. as Vinnie says you have to be careful not to mark metalics. Do the metalics weigh more than the flat colours? If so (and you are painting) you could save weight by using a flat colour. I wonder if silver is preferred because it's a good base colour for painting over (grey being a common primer colour) Good luck with the TN Spit, do post some pictures when it's done
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| Edited: 29/01/08 10:55 |
 Thanks gents, yes the intent is to paint over the film and I had thought about the fact that silver would be a good base colour though I've read quite specifically that it's easier to apply, so definitely interesting to see your comments. I will definitely post some pics when done, though at the rate I'm going "done" is a long way away yet...
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 Hi Shaun, one more important thing..........as your'e going to paint over the solarfilm, you will have to use Primol etching fluid before painting so the paint will not flake off. vince
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 Thanks Vinnie, I have a large tin in the cupboard ready to go from a previous non-aircraft related painting job. I'll be setting up a test job with some scrap balsa and solarfilm before I give it a go on the real job. I've also read in the past couple of days that a little primol in the seams of solarfilm joints gives a much better seal over time too, i.e. run some along the edge of the bottom layer before ironing down the top layer. So there's a handy tip for the day!
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 I used silver solarfilm a good while ago, on a foam/veneer soarer. Took buckets of heat to get it to stick, so much so that the foam under the veneer began to melt and the wing went all rippled! Don't forget, silver REFLECTS heat! (Both ways!)
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 It's always best to apply balsaloc or similar on any ply surface for best results.As regards the seams yes, apply prymol to the shinny surface only and to be sure it stays stuck , i always apply some balsaloc to the edges as well 
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 If anyone's still listening on this post I have an interesting bit of anecdotal evidence on this topic. My dad has just finished building his second plane and covered it with silver solarfilm on the top of the wings and plain red solarfilm on the fuselage. I've never specifically discussed with him the line of thought that silver is easier to put on than standard colours. But I'm sure you'll never guess what he said purely out of interest. Yep - an off-hand comment that "for some reason the silver seemed easier to put on". The red on the fuse and green on the underside both have some marks and a couple of minor wrinkles but the silver is magnificent - no marks, VERY tight compound curves around the wingtip and not a single wrinkle. The same can't be said for the other colours. My dad's definitely a beginner with the covering iron and solarfilm but to him the silver stood out as easier to put on, particularly around curves and over fully sheeted areas and it shows in the results.
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 Hi Shaun, throughout the solarfilm range i haven't found problems with applying them to any surface or compound curves, with the right amount of heat it's easy. the only difference i have found is that metallics seem to mark alot easier than solids. When i apply the covering, i always tack it first ,with as little wrinkles as possible,then seal the edges and finally use a hot air blower to slightly shrink the material to a smooth finish.Never try and shrink the covering to it's fullest extent, this will warp the part you are covering and could damage the finish.I always plan ahead on the part to be covered so you know any possible problems can be delt with as easy as possible. vince
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