Here is a list of all the postings Cliff 1959 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Retro fitting flaps to a Super 60|
Mike, that's why I added them where I did, they really slow the plane as Peter says. Also it's good to slow down prior to parachute release.
Dave, I hope my next passenger doesn't see your comment next time I fly my full-size
Read in the spirit it was intended ... I take on board all of your points of course, I acquired the model with ailerons already fitted, the flaps are just a bit of fun really (I like tinkering).
I've added a little hatch on the bottom which is remotely controlled for letting a parachute go as well as a camera mount between the undercarriage legs (I like tinkering).
I've just had a look at the Jackdaw, but like a streamlined Super 60, I see where you're coming from.
See you on the field.
Here's a picture of the whole plane, I painted the design as a homage to the vintage planes of yesteryear.
The hinges are just as pictured simply glued to little balsa blocks (angled otherwise the hinges don't close enough to allow the flap to go parallel to the wing), if you're making a wing I would build the flaps into the structure, inboard of the ailerons, you could still use the same hinges or use the covering in the normal way. Are you adding ailerons?
Tried it out this evening, 30% flaps slows it nicely but 80% and it virtually hovvers! The model displays no sign of tip stalling. Flying doesn't seem to have been impaired at all with the flaps in this position beneath the wing.
Ok, this is what I've done, it's going to be fun testing it out.
Another idea is to hinge the flaps like that on a Stuka, either behind and below the wing or simply under the wing with a gap.
Thanks for that idea, I was thinking of hinging them using some sort of iron-on covering but hinging from the main spar is something I didn't even consider, how big were they?
I could also hinge them on the trailing edge but that would like untidy from above, how did they affect the trim hinging so far forward and how effective where they in that position?
I have inherited an old Super 60 which I've electrified, she flies very well but as I've added a camera and a parachute bay along with the large battery she comes in a little to quickly when landing.
My plan is to add inboard flaps to slow things down a little, the trailing edge is built up and perhaps only 35mm deep so not really big enough to cut flaps into. I don't want to strip off the nice old-looking nylon and build up some flaps and try to match the covering which would be almost impossible.
I was wondering if adding flaps to the underside of the wing made from, say 1/16" ply to the depth of the out-board ailerons, about 2", would work.
Of course they would cause a bit of turbulence when flat against the wing because they wouldn't be flush but not enough to worry about on this old bus?
Any comments or ideas?
|Thread: Overlander shaft shortening?|
Thanks for all your help, in the end I did the plastic bag and fine angle grinder technique, only took a minute, job done.
I have an Overlander T3548/05 and the drive shaft seems to have two positions, as I want the prop close to the front of the motor the shaft sticks out at the back by approx 14mm.
My question: As I need the space is it ok to cut off the piece sticking out the back and what is the best way to do it? I was thinking of wrapping the motor in clingfilm to protect from debris and going at it gently with a 1mm cutting disc in my angle grinder allowing it to cool if necessary.
Any ideas or comments welcome.
Edited By Cliff 1959 on 16/04/2016 11:45:13
|Thread: Keilkraft Super 60|
Thanks for all your replies, just for the record the plane weighs in at just under 4lb with motor and battery but then it was built for ic!
Edited By Cliff 1959 on 21/10/2015 21:22:37
I've just acquired a very fine condition Keil Kraft Super 60, probably 20+ years old, it's covered in iron-on nylon by the look of it, she has ailerons, rudder and elevator but a ic motor on the nose, what sort of motor do you think would be good, I have 3s lipos already, would they be capable of getting her off the ground, maybe two together?
Any advice welcome.
Edited By Cliff 1959 on 20/10/2015 21:23:03
|Thread: 4 Max ESC Plug replacement|
Ok, thanks for the suggestions.
I've put a volt meter on the connections and I get 4.8v, with an assistant wiggling everything it stays rock solid!
The reason I suspected the unit was because with my Grauper MZ transmitter it intermittently warned me that the receiver voltage was low, the battery which is fairly new, measured 98% charged, (I tried a second battery anyway with no change).
I tried removing and reinserting the plug into the receiver a few times with no change, then I tried another esc and all was instantly well.
This particular bec is programmable for 5v or 6v, I presume it is set at the 5v setting, hence my 4.8v reading? Would this cause the transmitter to give a 'low voltage' warning?
Any suggestions welcome.
I have a 4 Max esc which I suspect has a problem in the lead, possibly a break somewhere as the receiver keeps losing power (on the ground thankfully).
Has anyone every changed a lead on one of these and how easy was it.
I've had no response from 4 Max re repairs!
|Thread: Law - am I breaking bylaws?|
Up at Haytor last weekend there were three drones flying, I've got to say I enjoy flying models but these were just bugging me, not only for the noise aspect but aren't they 'power models'? so should they even be there?
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