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Member postings for Birgir

Here is a list of all the postings Birgir has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Bleriot XI
15/10/2017 12:56:02

Thanks for this

I think I’m beginning to understand the task at hand and getting a better understand of the problem.

I’m used to land my trainer using the throttle to control the decent, (i.e. elevator – speed, throttle – height) but the trainer is trimmed for level flight at ca. 60% throttle. And a proper decent at about 40 - 50% throttle.

The Bleriot isn’t trimmed properly at all. I fly it at full throttle using the elevator to maintain height. This is the first thing I must change.

My limited experience with the Bleriot tells me though that I have a very narrow band of throttle change to play with, much narrower than in the case of my trainer.

So, next flight the task is to trim for levelled flight at something less than full throttle. Full throttle should then increase height and something less should cause levelled decrease in height.

Because of the narrow band in throttle change, it is possibly wise to install throttle curve in my TX. For example, setting 50 – 75 – 90 at 25%, 50% and 75% stick position resulting in the last 10% of throttle change spreads over the top 25% of stick movement.

When this trimming is accomplished I should be able to practice a few low passes hopefully resulting in a smooth landing in the end.

I would welcome any views and warnings about this approach.

​B.

14/10/2017 11:39:20

Hi

Yesterday I managed to do one flight with my Bleriot. I went back to 10 x 5 prop and 425 gr of ballast. I also reduced the elevator throw about 25%.

The take-off went very well, strait into the wind (4-5 m/s) and I managed the model better than before, did a couple of circles and a figure eight.

Then the dreaded landing approach. When flying my trainer, I usually glide in on half a throttle and then reduce the power to let the model loose height.

When trying the same approach with my Bleriot it looks like I reduce the power too much and too soon and it ends in a kind of “drop down” landing and a broken landing gear.

I notice that John talks of “motor in for a smooth touchdown” on the landing approach.

I would sure like to hear a better explanation of this approach and how to land a Bleriot with under cambered wide wings and a marginal powerhouse.

All comments are welcome.

B.

13/10/2017 09:28:21

Thanks Donald, I like your advice.

I will hold back on changes and practice with 10 x 5 and 425 gr.

The problem is though that the flying season is probably over here in Iceland for this year.

B.

13/10/2017 09:04:58

Looks grate and very well balanced in the air

12/10/2017 17:12:53

Thanks Jon, I will keep this in mind.

Here is a video that John might like 😊

**LINK**

B.

11/10/2017 23:31:55

Grate news, looking forward to more pics

B.

19/08/2017 22:04:41

Now the wing is fixed and testing can go on. This time I used 10x5 prop and 425 gr lead.

The model still needs a bit up elevator to keep level and could also do with more speed. Later I tried 10x6 and 400 gr of lead but dropped a wing turning too soon and broke the landing gear. I ‘ve already started to fix that.

The flight in this video taught me to leave the phone in the car while flying.

B.

Edited By Birgir on 19/08/2017 22:14:50

03/07/2017 10:21:43

Hi

The weather here in Iceland has not been very suitable for my Bleriot project lately. Never the less I’ve been able to do some flights. As some of the readers of this thread may remember there are two main tasks at hand at present. The first one is adjusting the CoG losing some of the lead up front and the other one is to select the best prop to be able to get the most out of the rather small SC30FS.

On D. Boddingtons plan the CoG is marked about 10 cm from the LE. To get the CoG to 11 cm I had to put about 600 gr of lead on the landing gear and therefore it was very difficult to get the model up to speed on the runway with the rather small engine. When in the air I had to use a considerable amount of up elevator to keep it level. I took Donald’s Fry advice and took off 25 gr of lead after each flight. Now I’m down to 425 gr so I must have had more than eight flights until now. The model still needs an up elevator, but considerably less than before.

During this time, I’ve only had two crashes, not counting some hard landings and minor injuries. Both was of course my own fault. The first one was fixed by re-gluing the landing gear but the latter one was more drastic. The reason for that crash was that once again I didn’t follow the rule of heading directly into the wind until suitable height is reached. If you allow the model to turn to early it will drop a wing and tip stall into the ground. (I needed three instances to get this; understand, practice and remember.)

20170629_162840.jpg

The model is already fixed and ready for take-off once again.

20170702_184949.jpg

I’ve been using 10*4 prop but as the engine runs in, it gets more power and I have now switched to 10*5 and by that I’ve got a little more speed for take-off.

It might be wise to try 9*6 or 10*6 as I could still do with a little more speed for take-off.

Now I´m off for Texas for a fortnight so further test must wait a bit.

B.

Note to moderator:
To my surprise this thread has had more than 10.000 visits even though it has been buried deep in the forum. I wonder if it is possible to see where the bulk of those visits come from. Is there some website with a lot of Bleriot enthusiasts out there on the internet?

Edited By Birgir on 03/07/2017 10:34:29

Thread: Vintage Wheels
11/05/2017 21:56:53
Hi David

I also went the DYI route to make wheels for my Bleriot.
 
There are some pictures on my web: **LINK**
 
bleriot_wheels.jpg
 
If you choose English and click on the photos there is a little explanation.
 
Later I used neoprane cord instead of foam.
 
B

Edited By Birgir on 11/05/2017 22:04:18

Thread: Spring is Here....
30/04/2017 22:29:36

The spring will also soon arrive here in Iceland so I went to the field this morning with my old trainer, the Keil Kraft Mini Super and practiced a few landing approaches just to loosen up my fingers for the summer.

B.

Edited By Birgir on 30/04/2017 22:31:06

Edited By Birgir on 30/04/2017 22:38:55

Thread: Have you passed the model flying/building bug onto anyone else?
01/04/2017 23:57:24

katla.jpg

I guess you have to start early if you want to succeed, this is what we call "early intervention" in my line of work.

B

Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
02/03/2017 20:55:51

fieldbox01.jpg

When the weather is impossible and all your models are in a mint condition the only thing you can do is to design a new colour scheme for the field box and paint it.

http://flugmodel.weebly.com/field-box.html

B.

 

Edited By Birgir on 02/03/2017 20:58:57

Thread: Field Battery
18/01/2017 17:48:47

Hi Steven and welcome back

I’m an IC user and have been using the same Lipo 2s 4000mAh battery for my electric starter for the past three years. I almost never charge at the field and my starter battery only needs a recharge a few times a year.

If you are going to build your own field box feel free to download my excel sheet of an adjustable field box plan

You can see my starter and starter battery on the table.

B.

 

Edited By Birgir on 18/01/2017 17:50:08

Thread: Have you passed the model flying/building bug onto anyone else?
11/01/2017 10:11:53

No one yet, but I have eight grandchildren and I'm still hoping

Thread: LED-lights DIY
09/01/2017 13:34:52

Good to hear Mannyroad

Here is a sketch of the switch free circuit design wink

ms_light04.jpg

Edited By Birgir on 09/01/2017 16:44:24

09/01/2017 08:51:48

Thanks Denis

I went the DIY route and made three contacts on the fuselage. One is the negative, but the other two are the positive lead. When I put the wing in place, the positive connector for the wing lights bridges the two positive connectors on the fuselage closing the circuit for the tail light.

ms_light02.jpg

So now the mission is completed and hopefully I can start my spring flying a week or two earlier here in the twilight in the North.

ms_light03.jpg

B.

Thread: buddy 6EX & T8J
01/01/2017 10:08:42
Hi
 
In the Dual Receiver setup, you have as the name suggests, two sets of transmitter/receiver and in fact there is no information going from one set to the other. The neat trick is that one set is connected to the Ctrl of the Dual Receiver Controller via its receiver and you can, with one switch on that transmitter, control which set actually is flying the plane.
 
Congratulations on a smart and simple design Phil.
 
There is a video on RCModelReviews that explains this very well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-t1QmKa1LTI
 
Happy New Year
B.
30/12/2016 13:50:55

Hi Steve

Have you thought of using Dual Receiver Controller:

Wireless buddy box

I have put such a thing in my old Keil Kraft Mini Super using Futaba 6J and a very cheap Hobby King HK6S transmitter and receiver.

Worked fine for my only pupil in a single lesson. wink

B.

Edited By Birgir on 30/12/2016 13:57:00

Thread: LED-lights DIY
30/12/2016 11:43:06

Thanks Denis

I wonder what the price is for a CR2032 in UK.

Here in Iceland, a Duracell costs 3,6 pound a piece in the supermarket but I can get a no name brand in a low-price store for 18 cents a piece.

Enormous price difference but I can't see any difference in performance in my LED circuit. smiley

B.

30/12/2016 09:12:32

Good morning everyone

At last, the goods have arrived from China, a box with different coloured LEDs and a bag full of resistors, (1/4 W 120 – 910 ohm) so now it is back to bench testing.

I’ve decided to use three resistors, one for each LED (white, red and green) and all three LEDs in parallel connection to one battery pool of two button batteries, giving 6 Volts and 225 mAh.

led_circuit.jpg
In this setup the white LED is considerably brighter than the red and green but that is most likely because of the fact that those are different coloured LEDs.

If each LED is about 20 mA, three of them should use 60 mA and a 225 mAh battery pool should keep them lit for up to three hours. The bench testing showed just that. After 4 – 5 hours the white LED started to lose its brightness and this morning it was just a dim glow but the other two green and red seem to last longer.

led_test.jpg

Next phase is to implement the three navigating lights into my model, perhaps using the wing as an on/off switch, so that when the wing is in place the lights are lit but turns off when the wing is removed. For longer periods with LEDs off, I will place a plastic strip between the connectors to the wing as you often see in new toys that comes with batteries installed.

Comments and ideas, good or bad, are welcomed.

B.

Edited By Birgir on 30/12/2016 09:13:06

Edited By Birgir on 30/12/2016 09:21:43

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