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Member postings for Gary Manuel

Here is a list of all the postings Gary Manuel has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Reccomend a M/R for some OLD lads to have a dabble
25/02/2017 19:09:27
Posted by Fun Flyer on 25/02/2017 18:13:17:

Well done iqon!! yesyes I'm sure you won't regret taking the plunge.

I thought the idea was to avoid taking the plunge wink

Good Luck Denis!

Thread: Learning to play guitar
23/02/2017 10:39:52

I tried learning to play guitar a few years ago. I bought a Fender Squire type electric with a decent amp and a relatively cheap acoustic guitar. I managed to get my finger tips hardened but never really got to grips with understanding or playing them. I put it down to lack of time to practice but in reality I was just lazy.

Reading this thread has encouraged me to have another go now that I'm retired. I'm still lazy though blush

Thread: Throttle Curves?
20/02/2017 15:16:23
Posted by Jonathan M on 20/02/2017 14:54:39:
Posted by Gary Manuel on 19/02/2017 21:24:54:

What you have there Jonathan is 50% stick = 38% throttle and 100% stick = 80% throttle.

That's only 2% away from a straight line (50% stick = 40% would be straight), so you haven't really achieved much - apart from maybe limiting your full throttle position to 80%.

What you need to do before you set a throttle curve is to:

1/ Remove your throttle curve so that it's a straight diagonal line from 0 to 100%

2/ Adjust your TRAVEL / END POINTS so that low stick = tickover and high stick = full throttle (barrel fully open - just before the servo stalls). This is your starting point.

3/ Assuming a 5 point curve, readjust your throttle curve for position 1 = 0%, 5 =100%, 3= 25% (or whatever gives the feel you want at mid position).Position 3 is the only one you should need to touch to start with. Position 2 and 4 should self adjust - if not, set them to give a smooth curve.

Hi Gary

Yes, I understand this, and already had my curve and travels set up exactly as you describe at (1) and (2) above. But what happened yesterday, with the model on the ground and adjusting the curve to achieve a satisfactory mid-position as you describe at (3) above is that I realised the last 20% or so of the barrel opening was making no difference whatsoever to the engine RPM! So, not wanting to fiddle the travels under servo setup (as I wondered whether higher RPM might be achieved with the model moving fast in the air, and didn't want this clipped for later re-adjustment), I simply adjusted my curve to an almost straight line (but with a touch more finesse at the lower speeds) in the 0-80% range.

The difference in throttle response was immediate, with much more control in both halves of the stick range. So the problem wasn't quite as I first thought, but more to do with the fact that the barrel is only effective to 80% or so open!

That makes sense Jonathan. If the final 20% was doing nothing, it would skew everything towards the lower end.

The main thing is that you are happy with the final feel of the model.

Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog
20/02/2017 14:35:43

The problem with a screw is that it needs something to tighten up against, to prevent it coming loose. The PTFE is probably too soft to do this - especially when it gets hot.

What I'm thinking at the moment is to drill a pilot hole through the PTFE tube and into the stainless steel silencer or header pipe below. Then drill the PTFE hole a bit larger and push a servo mount spacer into the PTFE tube. Then screw a self tapping screw coated in strong threadlock into the stainless steel, till it tightens against the servo mount spacer. This should then be nice and solid to hold the screw in place, if all goes well. The servo mount spacer should also spread the load of the vibrations a bit to help prevent the PTFE tube from rubbing against the screw and tearing.

The final step would be a turn or two of silicone self fusing tape around the PTFE tube / screws to hold the screws in place in case it does try to vibrate loose.

I don't need to decide just yet as I will start the engine with the cowl off initially, to see whether I think it needs anything doing or whether I'm concerned over nothing. Waiting for tail wheel / prop order from ProBuild before I finish, then wait for field to dry out a bit before flying.

20/02/2017 09:43:01

That's a good idea Rich.

Thread: Help, two speed teapot.
19/02/2017 22:33:27

There's only one way to make a British Standard cup of tea - as defined in BS6008.

The standard only costs £98 per copy from the BSI shop.

Here's an overview.

Thread: Throttle Curves?
19/02/2017 22:18:30
Posted by cymaz on 19/02/2017 22:01:27:

Throttle curves...well I will stick my head above the parapet.

I use them if the geometry is not right on the throttle travel. I like to try and have even rpm increase throughout the stick movement. If this can't be done by adjustment on the servo and throttle arms then the expo is used. My Evo radial particularly needs a lot of + expo ( on a futaba tx ). If I didn't have this then all my rpm increase would be on the last half of the stick movement.

I'm surprised that you find that all your rpm increase is on the last half. I find exactly the opposite - all rpm increase is on the bottom half without a throttle curve.

Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog
19/02/2017 21:49:43
Posted by john stones 1 on 19/02/2017 21:44:23:

Rich ? used some heat proof silicone on the joint i think.

Silicone won't stop it moving it's too soft.

I think you might be thinking about the gap he filled between the fuselage mounted clamp and the silencer - because the fit was too loose.

Thread: Throttle Curves?
19/02/2017 21:25:52
Posted by Percy Verance on 19/02/2017 21:12:42:

Four strokes don't throttle as well as a two stroke?

May I respectfully suggest you try a Laser Denis?........

Edited By Percy Verance on 19/02/2017 21:15:27

I must have been running my 4 strokes wrong then Percy, because my Saito's throttle just fine.

Edit - misread your post Percy - yes I agree with you.

Edited By Gary Manuel on 19/02/2017 21:32:00

19/02/2017 21:24:54

What you have there Jonathan is 50% stick = 38% throttle and 100% stick = 80% throttle.

That's only 2% away from a straight line (50% stick = 40% would be straight), so you haven't really achieved much - apart from maybe limiting your full throttle position to 80%.

 

What you need to do before you set a throttle curve is to:

1/ Remove your throttle curve so that it's a straight diagonal line from 0 to 100%

2/ Adjust your TRAVEL / END POINTS so that low stick = tickover and high stick = full throttle (barrel fully open - just before the servo stalls). This is your starting point.

3/ Assuming a 5 point curve, readjust your throttle curve for position 1 = 0%, 5 =100%, 3= 25% (or whatever gives the feel you want at mid position).Position 3 is the only one you should need to touch to start with. Position 2 and 4 should self adjust - if not, set them to give a smooth curve.

Edited By Gary Manuel on 19/02/2017 21:45:36

Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog
19/02/2017 21:12:25

Haven't ordered any Silicone trim yet. It's just a thought at the moment. All I've done so far is rule out the PVC grommets.

What I'm concerned about is that the silencers are only held onto the headers via the PTFE tubes and spring clamps. I think they might start to move around when the engine vibration starts. I don't want the vibrating silencers to come into direct contact with the cowl - even if it's reinforced at the point of contact. I'm still thinking of a solution but I have one or two ideas.

Suggestions welcome.

19/02/2017 15:22:24

I've had a read-up about grommet material.

Most of them (including mine) are made from PVC, which starts to decompose at 140C and melt at 160C. Some are natural rubber which is only good for up to about 100C. Not much use if it comes into contact with a hot exhaust pipe then.

The rubber strip used at the bottom of Page 1 of Adrian Smith's thread HERE, got me thinking about using using something similar, but I think that will have the same temperature issues.

I've found THIS stuff, which is made from Platinum cured Silicone. It should be good for up to 230C - 250C. It will also allow me to cut the holes to any shape / size I want. The 25mm grommets I've used at the moment only have about 3mm clearance all round. I'd like double or treble that to allow for vibration and expansion.

 

Edit - here's a LINK to Silex Website

Edited By Gary Manuel on 19/02/2017 15:35:06

Thread: Bad News And Good.
18/02/2017 20:22:47

That could also signal the end of monthly subscriptions for some people.

Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog
17/02/2017 16:53:57
Posted by iqon on 17/02/2017 16:17:43:

Why no air out hole........

Because it's got a proper tunnel for the silencers. That's where I want as much air as possible to go.

I've also put a lip on the leading edge of the tunnel outlet to help "suck" air through.

17/02/2017 16:36:58
Posted by Rich2 on 17/02/2017 16:24:27:

I'll be using quite a few of them. It will also be reinforced where the bolts are. And I use bigger ones to fix the cowl to the fuselage. You might be right..

I was thinking 10 to 12 down each side.

Cowl to Fus is already sorted.

17/02/2017 16:35:11
Posted by Rich2 on 17/02/2017 16:19:57:

I'm using these **LINK**

M3, and captive T nuts and small rubber washers.

 

They're the sort of thing I had in mind.

Where did you source your T nuts and washers?

Edit - I found and ordered some from ebay.

Edited By Gary Manuel on 17/02/2017 17:02:12

17/02/2017 16:33:18
Posted by john stones 1 on 17/02/2017 16:20:56:

Looks neat, but i would prefer bigger holes myself, it'll vibrate a bit as they do, and it might set stress fractures off ?

I agree - I might make them bigger. Play it by ear till I've got engine running.

17/02/2017 16:15:18

Yes Rich - 2 piece cowl.

I'm still thinking what type of screws / bolts to use for fixing the 2 halves together. The supplied canopy screws are not really up to the job.

I'm going to give a grommet the "soldering iron test" and maybe even the "blowtorch" test before I try starting the engine.

May need to find some silicone grommets?

17/02/2017 10:10:19
Posted by iqon on 17/02/2017 10:03:04:

What !!! no grommet around the fuel pipe.....

No, but it's glued.

17/02/2017 09:09:23

Maybe I should spread a bit of cheese around the edge of the grommets to give me early smell warning of them getting hot.

I do like a bit of Gorgonzola.

I'm going to test a grommet to see if they are heat / flame proof - steady on boy dog

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