Here is a list of all the postings Gary Manuel has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Looking for multi output pulse charger|
I charge my NiMh's up on my Ripmax Pro Peak 4, when I get back from flying and then just give them quick inspection and a battery top-up on the morning before I leave. Usually done in less than an hour even if they have been left for many months.
Electric powered models are a different kettle of fish. Something like THIS or THIS are ideal as they allow 4 batteries to be charged at once - note that a DC power supply and balance leads are also needed with these, but they do allow you to charge at the field from a car battery etc.
Edited By Gary Manuel on 07/05/2017 17:32:29
I have been using one of THESE for years, for all my NiMh charging (apart from the initial from-new charge), including my transmitters.
Never had a problem.
|Thread: Can I use end point to limit max power|
Here's my opinion:
Don't change anything - just don't push the stick all the way to the top.
A little extra power is always handy to have in reserve.
|Thread: How to connect a solenoid to a receiver?|
Yes Sam, the receiver controlled switch will work as long as you are happy to reset the solenoid mechanically rather than reversing the polarity and doing it electrically.
May I suggest assigning the transmitter channel that operates the solenoid to a spring loaded switch? This will ensure that the solenoid only remains energised as long as you are pushing the spring loaded switch.
The polarity reversing circuit I was thinking of is the one that Ben B has produced above. The receiver controlled switch would be used to switch the voltage at terminals A and B in the sketch (using a 6v supply / relay). Voltage applied to A/B would then energise the solenoid one way, and removing the voltage would energise the solenoid the other way.
One problem you still have with this arrangement is that clause (ii) and Fig 1 in the instructions for your solenoid show that the 5W version has a maximum pulse duration of about 5 seconds (unclear but I think that's what it shows). This is the maximum time that you can apply either normal or reverse voltage to the solenoid for. I'm sure that it would be possible to design a pulse shaping circuit that removes the voltage after a short pulse but this is now getting a bit complex.
There might also be a problem with the solenoid you have, if it is not operating by either a normal or reverse polarity supply. It should clunk / latch one way as soon as you apply a voltage, and clunk / latch the other way if you reverse it. If it's not doing this, it looks like you have a duff solenoid - maybe caused be leaving the pulse on for longer than the maximum time shown in the data sheet?
A non latching solenoid driven directly from a receiver controlled switch, or the servo controlled tow release arrangement might be a better idea.
Edit, some of the points I have made here have already been made in the time it took me to type it.
Edited By Gary Manuel on 04/05/2017 14:48:30
I'm not sure whether you are aware, but the solenoid you are using is a LATCHING type - i.e. it stays in the last position you energise it to. Normal polarity energises it and reverse polarity de-energises it. Try reversing the polarity of the supply to confirm this - then normal polarity again to latch it the other way - it should latch one way then the other.
In order to operate this particular solenoid from a receiver, you will need a RELAY operated by a receiver controlled switch as suggested above, with at least 2 changeover contacts to provide a polarity reversing circuit. Shout up if you are not sure what I'm on about or need a circuit diagram sketching.
Good call Bob.
I didn't know about them. That's exactly what's needed.
May be buying one or two of them myself (Saito 82 and 150 with similar issues).
Depending on the thickness of your propeller, you may need to omit the special Saito Locknut to get the adapter on far enough. The adapter will act as a lock nut of sorts though.
|Thread: Dual elevator servos and flap mix - AAARRGGGHHH !|
Yes - what Dave and Steve said - not sure about default channel though - I think you can assign any un-assigned channel as the slave.
You'll know when it's right because the 2 elevator halves appear as "RELE" and "LELE" in menus / monitor screen.
|Thread: Recommend a M/R for some OLD lads to have a dabble|
I predict you'll be standing on the flight line with hands in pocket, pretending to be flying your quad for the team photograph - again
Can't wait for another go. Might be even more of us next week.
|Thread: Irresponsible ' drone' retailers|
Yep - ANO is much better than counting sheep for sending you into a deep slumber ...
|Thread: film covering peeling away|
Iron the overlapping bit, taking care not to apply too much heat and shrink the covering.
Then apply clear nail varnish or fuel proofer over the edge of the film to prevent it lifting.
|Thread: Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300|
You are more than capable of trimming 20mm off the front end and whatever else it takes to fit the engine of your choice. If you compromise on the engine, you'll regret it later.
|Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog|
The one I've put on is probably not much better.
On the lookout for a decent 40mm diameter one
I flew the Extra several times at the weekend. The wires appear to have held the silencers on, but I'll keep monitoring the situation and fit self tappers if it ever moves.
One little problem I did have is that the tail wheel lost it's tire at some point. The tire must have actually split in 2 as that is the only way it could break free from the wheel / brackets, which would have held an intact tire captive.
I suspect that the cause of this was that the tail wheel was turning too much when rudder was applied while taxiing, causing the tyre to be ripped off the side of the wheel. Rudder stick at half way would apply full lock to the steerable wheel. Any further rudder movement was taken up by the springs.
The excess movement of the tailwheel was because the control arm was relatively short compared to the rudder control arm. I have now made a longer control arm for the tail wheel which is roughly the same length as the rudder control arms.
This photo shows the new arm fitted, compared with the old one.
This photo shows the rudder (top of picture) at full throw with the tail wheel turned at roughly the same angle.
It also shows that the tail wheel tire would need to split in half to escape.
Edited By Gary Manuel on 10/04/2017 16:37:46
|Thread: Carl Goldberg Ultimate, Where are you now?|
I've still got the 2 piece cowl mould if anybody wants it (that was the most time consuming part of the build).
I built this from plans a few years ago and stuck a Satio 150 in it. Highly recommended. I'm "Monkey001" on the above thread!
I was gutted when I lost it due to an engine cut at an inappropriate height.
|Thread: Thunder Tiger 35% Extra 260 Build Blog|
If I ever do this again, I might have a go at "engraving" a band of Knurling with a Dremel onto the header underneath the clamp so that it behaves like the silencer.
Edited By Gary Manuel on 07/04/2017 21:04:26
Yes the silencer is barbed.
Also of note, when I put the plumbers grips onto the joint and turned, it was the header end that moved first on both sides. Although the silencer protrudes less into to the joint than the header, it has far more grip - thanks to the barbed surface. If wires fail (or I get the time / inclination), I'll have a go with a self tapper through the "V".
Thanks for this post Ultymate!
My guts were telling me that self tappers was the way to go. I never considered the natural "V" in the spring though. Sounds like a great idea!
Do you also put one through the silencer end of the joint?
I went for the wires because it is 100% reversible. I'm not convinced it will work but it's worth a try
Edited By Gary Manuel on 07/04/2017 20:34:23
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