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Member postings for Gary Manuel

Here is a list of all the postings Gary Manuel has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: My Ultimate Biplane Build
23/09/2017 20:23:14

I don't want to be responsible for your house falling down Andy, but at least you'd have a nice model to be flying while the house was being rebuilt devil

23/09/2017 09:08:34
Posted by Ultymate on 23/09/2017 08:52:50:

Looking at your throttle setup have you never thought of using a cable to pull the throttle open and leaving the return spring to close the throttle, this way you get virtually no vibration fed back into your servo gears

Not thought of doing that.

It would have worked here too, because the throttle closes away from the servo position.

23/09/2017 09:05:49
Posted by cymaz on 23/09/2017 08:43:49:

I have looong forceps and a telescopic magnet for such occasions. Also I've lightly tacked a nut on a thin hacksaw blade, just to get the nut to catch.

Good effort thoughyes

A magnet was used ..... several times ..... for recovering the nuts, washers, screws I dropped into the bottom of the inaccessible fuselage angry 2

I like you're idea of using a hacksaw blade. That might have helped a bit.

Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/09/2017 09:09:42

23/09/2017 08:22:00
Posted by Rich too on 23/09/2017 07:41:38:

Well done Gary, that would have beaten me! I probably would have drilled holes in the fuselage sides for access, and then cover with film after.

I was very close to doing that at one point.

22/09/2017 22:55:03
Posted by john stones 1 on 22/09/2017 22:19:28:

On the bright got to use the endoscope again. Why you not use anchor nuts Gary ?

Impossible to get them in once the engine box is in place.

It would have been a better idea to design it like that to start with - add captive nuts to the outside of the engine box before gluing it into the fuselage.

22/09/2017 21:51:57

This next bit was probably the most difficult, frustrating job I've ever attempted whilst modelling.

Whoever designed this wants locking up!

First cabane strut lowered through the turtle deck.


Endoscope camera used to help me guide the two screws into place and record these images. There is no way I'd have managed without it. Might have been easier if I'd done this before the firewall was in place, but it would still be an awful job.


I managed to get a stubby screwdriver on the bottom one, but the top was a different matter due to the proximity of the former in this picture. Bare in mind, I could only access it from the rear - through the tank tunnel.


Once the screws were in place, I needed to put a washer and locknut onto the screw - via this small slot!

Bottom one was easy - the top one was found to be impossible. It's above the top of the oval slot.

What I finished up doing was cutting the notch that is visible here into the oval slot so that I could get my mini socket spanner in there and .......


..... swap the cross head screws for set screws.


This made it a little easier to get the allen key on the screw to stop it spinning while I tightened the nut from the other side. These two screws took me two hours to get in!


For the other three struts, I decided to push the screws through from the outside.

This was a bit easier, but still had me cussin' and swearin'.

I'll cut the excess length off the screws later to prevent damage to the fuel tank.


Done - and so am I for today.


22/09/2017 17:06:22
Posted by john stones 1 on 21/09/2017 17:31:36:

Wants some screws in that servo. wink

Wants fixing to the throttle arm at t'other end too.

Covering removed from the pre-drilled servo horn holes. A few drops of CA added to harden the wood up.

The small holes in the tail plane halves are for fixing to the wing joiner tube and the large holes are to access the grub screws for adjusting the incidence angle (more later).


Rudder hinges glued into the tail fin.


Elevator hinges epoxied into the tail plane (a.k.a. horizontal stabiliser)


Thread: Petrol motors, magneto or CDI ignition.
22/09/2017 14:35:49
Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 22/09/2017 12:53:12:

Love, 'apparent reliability'. wink

"Apparent reliability" is an essential ingredient to flying your model with confidence. If you don't have faith in your engine, you will never fly it with confidence.

I fly both types of petrol engine (plus a CDI four stroke). I've never had issues with either apart from a dicky on/off switch, which cut the CDI version.

I used to struggle starting the magneto Zenoah 62 until I read the instructions properly and realised that the flick needs to start well before the point where compression is felt. After that, 100% reliability (and confidence) was achieved.

Thread: DLE 30 /RCGF 30
21/09/2017 18:58:08

Have a look at post number 103 HERE

Full bolt pattern database on first page.

Thread: A fairly severe 'nose' job!
21/09/2017 17:27:45

Good luck with the repair simon.

Hope to see you and your HP115 at next year's DVMFC open weekend. Hopefully less wind next year.

Thread: My Ultimate Biplane Build
21/09/2017 17:22:35

Throttle servo mounting beams made and glued in.


Instructions ask for the tail fin / rudder to be hinged prior to fitting the assembly to to the fuselage.

I can't see the logic of that, so I epoxied the the tail fin with its rather delicate post into the fuselage first.

Here's the slot it fits into ......


..... and here it is fitted.


While the epoxy is setting, I glued the hinges into the rudder in a similar way to the wings I did earlier.


I also did the two elevator halves.


Thread: Wild Hare Edge reincarnation
21/09/2017 09:21:44

Nice job Rich.

Well worth the time and effort you've put in.

Thread: My Ultimate Biplane Build
20/09/2017 20:57:21

It was going to cut it about a couple of mm after the bend so that it will go through the grommet hole

A soldered nut or a collet or similar is not a bad idea though.

PS - I've just noticed that photo dscn5709.jpg isn't displaying in the post above.

Try this:


20/09/2017 20:02:35

I marked the pieces I'd cut out of the cowl with the shape of the two front cheek holes .....


.... and cut them to shape, leaving 2 or 3mm on the outside of the line (in retrospect, I should have left a bit more).


I've assigned all 9 channels on my transmitter, so I'm going to need a manual choke.

Unfortunately, the choke arm needs to be moved by pushing / pulling from front to rear, rather than top to bottom.

This means that my throttle lever will need to be at the front rather than below the engine as I would have preferred.

I've made a choke pushrod guide bracket out of 3.2mm epoxy glass......


...... which guides the metal pushrod / snake outer .....


...... out of the front of the cowl.


The position the push rod exits the cowl was noted .....


...... and marked on the cheek hole infill.


Infill drilled and rubber grommet fitted.

I'll put a 90 degree bend in the push rod and tidy it up later.


Cheek infills glued in place.


I'm happy with that.


Not easy to see on the photos but I've added 4 layers of 48g/m2 glass cloth to strengthen the areas where holes will be drilled for the six cowl securing screws. I also added a couple of layers to the bridge between the cylinder head and exhaust cutouts.


I had some finishing epoxy left (I always seam to mix too much), so I fuel proofed the front end. I'll be blocking the oval holes later, so I'll need to revisit with fuel proofer.

I also had some glass cloth laid out on the bench so I added a couple of layers of cloth on the engine box too.


18/09/2017 18:59:42

I'll be blocking the two side / cheek holes in the front of the cowl as these are NOT where I want the cold air to enter the cowl.

I'll probably cut a bit more away from the cowl in front of the engine, so that all the fins are in the airflow.

Something like this.


18/09/2017 18:51:48

Had a bit of time due to our club chippy night (fish, chips and night flying) being cancelled due to bad weather.

Time to fit the cowl.

First I marked the 10mm that I intend the cowl to overlap the fuselage.....


..... and taped the cowl in place.


Wide masking tape stuck to the area I'll be cutting.


Cardboard template taped in position.


I marked the template outline and also 3mm (ish) inside the template outline.


Cowl removed from model and placed on bench.


Cowl cut to the 3mm lines inside the template outlines.

Better to cut less material off to start with.


I couldn't get the cowl to fit the model due to the exhaust pipe outlets, so I marked and cut out the warm air outlets to blend in with the exhaust holes.


I was then able to get the cowl most of the way onto the model with a bit of wiggling.


It would not quite fit all the way up to the intended 10mm overlap marks yet.


Something inside the cowl was obstructing it.

Here's where I got to use my ENDOSCOPE camera Best £6 I've ever spent. It allows you to get right inside any confined space and can capture pretty good quality close up photos onto PC or phone via a USB socket.

Here's the cause of the obstruction......


..... and here's another, but this will probably be OK once the cowl is slid fully into place.


Cowl cut away to clear the obstruction and cowl refitted right up to the 10mm marks.

Still obstructing a little, so I've marked an additional cut line.


That's better.


Front end lines up with the cowl hole perfectly (thanks to the maths I did earlier).


The gap between cowl and spinner backplate looks OK too.


Side view.


The 2nd obstruction inside the cowl has now opened up as I suspected it would.


Still a bit more trimming and finishing off to do, but I'm happy with the initial fit.

Thread: New switch required
13/09/2017 20:16:36

Much better than the old slider.

You should have no trouble with that.

Thread: My Ultimate Biplane Build
13/09/2017 09:03:15

Thanks for the feedback fellas.

You've convinced me that it doesn't need glassing. There are plenty of overlapping / interlocking pieces to give it the strength it needs. I will just give everything up front a coat of finishing resin once I've done.

12/09/2017 19:13:52

Large section triangular stock added where the engine block meets the fuselage at the front ......


.... and smaller section at the rear.


Large section in front of the engine bulkhead.


In my mind, this is a potential weak spot. If the engine hits just the right frequency, this overhang could start vibrating resulting in a crack here.


To avoid the vibration, I have added an extension to the top of the two engine box sides and epoxied it to the engine bulkhead.

This 9mm lite-ply fillet will also serve as something solid to screw the top hatch bolts into.

Note the square section I've glued to the fuselage front .......


..... and the engine bulkhead rear. The hatch will have something to sit on all the way around its edge.


I've pinned the engine bulkhead .....


..... through both sides and the bottom of the engine box using 3.5mm barbecue skewers.


I've also glued some triangular stock to the inside of the engine box.


I haven't made my mind up yet, but I might apply a layer or two of glass cloth to the outside of the engine box as I am fuel proofing it.

12/09/2017 10:12:54
Posted by Rich too on 12/09/2017 06:33:42:

Very nice work. Are you going to reinforce the front of the box with triangle stock?

Yes Rich. That's why I've left the overlap - also where the engine box meets the fuselage at the front and rear of the box. Triangular stock all around the inside of the engine box too.

I'll also pin the sides and maybe do something about what I think is a potential weak spot where the bulkhead overlaps the engine box sides. Got a removable top hatch to put on as well.

Still a way to go yet but I'm enjoying this slow pace.

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