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Member postings for Timothy Harris 1

Here is a list of all the postings Timothy Harris 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?
22/02/2018 12:48:20

The only caveat with using epoxy on polyester glass is that the polyester must be fully cured. If slightly sticky, fresh very smooth or greasy the bond will not be good. Critical bonds always need preparation. Epoxy resin is lighter less brittle and far far superior. It has much better moisture barrier and prevents osmosis and makes a smooth impenetrable barrier insid cowls. Epoxy  is routinely used to repair full size ( And model fibreglass boats) . Yes polyester chemistry has changed over the years and boat hulls are thinner now plus the glass woven fabrics available are better. I would not use polyester over epoxy....firstly polyester is more brittle so will crack easily. Full size boats are built with polyester resin due to cost but very very often repaired with epoxy. Just one extra thing to note .  Car body fillers eg isopon P38 etc are mostly polyester resins but can be used on properly cured epoxy as the are more flexible than standard polyester resin. 

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 22/02/2018 12:49:24

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 22/02/2018 12:50:40

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 22/02/2018 13:15:44

22/02/2018 09:39:11

Sorry Bob didn’t reply regarding the cowl question. Yes the cowl is formed from polyester. However epoxy is fully compatible with polyester and I will certainly be epoxy coating the Inside on mine plus the balsa baffling . I never use polyester resin on anything much these days as it’s so heavy and smelly (with the exception of car p47 body filler).

21/02/2018 21:34:50

Hi cheers Ron . My exhaust will protrude by 5mn approximately but with the close fitting cowl there isn’t much wiggle room. I will probably just simply cut a small removable panel. I’m not going to be lazy and cut the exhaust 😉 Good idea on guns Bob .

21/02/2018 15:10:25

Good to see you are getting on well there Bob. I have cut the front on my cowl too and will be doing similar on the baffle plate. I’m still debating whether to shorten the Laser 80s exhaust pipe as Peter did or just make a small panel in the cowl . I put my servo tray in the front last night, and am finishing all the Engine plumbing and control holes in the front before finishing the engine bay and fitting the wings. I will have to add a fair bit of fairing around the front of the wings to make it look ok. I must admit I’m enjoying it although my time is limited so just a little bit happens each day. I have changed to a 10oz tank from the original 12oz I had first planned. It’s on order at the moment but hopefully the smaller tank will give the servos more clearance.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 21/02/2018 15:11:28

Thread: Seagull P40 - weak bulkhead / poor design
20/02/2018 13:12:29

Epoxy filler is very neat and structurally strong once u get used to applying it . I repaired the end of a broken wing strut on my Wots Wot XL Biplane with it. Where it needs to be flush with a surface it’s easy. You can either repair the part on polythene or use insulating tape and repair a hole from the other side removing tape once it’s set hard. I tend not to thin my epoxy as I use west Systems big cans and that’s fairly thin already and soaks into wood well . Too much thinner and you will get weak rubbery glue. For small amounts of filler mixes I just use regular deluxe epoxy and cut a bit of leftover Matt into a small “ take away “ pot wit a small blob of epoxy in it . You don’t need much matting to make filler and a tiny bit will do . I apply with a coffee stirrer😊

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/02/2018 13:18:11

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/02/2018 13:23:27

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 20/02/2018 13:24:03

20/02/2018 09:34:43

Hi Ron it does look like the access was very limited as to say. Anyway good thing is it didn’t crash and you have repaired it well . On my p47 I added 2 half inch balsa beams on the inside to stiffen it that I glassed in as the front. Once I have the LA7 done I’m going to buy a Seagull Hurricane. I certainly will be reinforcing that too 😊 ready for nose overs😉. Regarding spinners I do prefer metal ones especially on warbirds, I think the larger ones also have heat sink properties too and aid cooling slightly. ( one for Jon😉.

Thread: The WORST plane you ever had?
19/02/2018 16:31:01

My worst was my e-flight extra 300 electric . A great looking orange foam plane that I eventually destroyed. I think the wing profile was upside down . It used to love dropping a wing when turning in.

Thread: Seagull P40 - weak bulkhead / poor design
19/02/2018 16:01:12

No problem Ash very happy to help. I also buy the big bulk boxes of brushes😊 . For the brush extension I use old split bamboo or carbon fibre tubes with tape on the end. I have often shown the guys at our club the “boaters technique” for making great fibreglass filler. Just fairly finely chop up any odd scraps of matting ( thin covering matting us also fine ) into a small pot with a blob of epoxy in it and stir. We used to fix our engine mounts into hulls that way and they never came out despite taking massive beating from the prop shaft and high rpm .

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 19/02/2018 16:01:55

19/02/2018 14:36:35

Sorry to see that Ron . Looks like you will need to make an access hatch and repair from that. For strengthening the front end on ARTFS first of all I take any pre installed star nuts out then I line the front fuselage and rear of the firewall with fibreglass tape (similar to wing joining tape) if it’s poorly designed or needs stiffening I add a few wood beams too. Using a long tube to extend the brush I can get into tight spaces. I also use chopped waste fibreglass mixed with epoxy as a super strong filler around the firewall. I then re drill and install the star nuts after all the reinforcement. I had to do that as well as adding extra ply on the firewall of my Seagull P47(And the Wots Wot xl) . Once done it was super strong and no added lead was required. I think you were unlucky not noticing the weakness but to be honest I have never yet found an ARTF that I felt was strong enough without reinforcement. At the very least I paint the inside with epoxy....edit oops missed your second page 😉

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 19/02/2018 14:40:15

Thread: Wot 4 mk 3 what engine to fit.
11/02/2018 14:59:21

I have a Laser 80 in mine and it’s great. I did add air brakes as per Chris Foss’s plan . I did have to shorten the nose too. A great fun all weather plane . Can work well with many different power choices.

Thread: Best given the right of way
09/02/2018 12:27:48

Also Ticks are also common in many parts of the UK especially where deer are about. Lyme disease from ticks is also a not that uncommon here so people who use the countryside need to be aware. There can be lots of Ticks in long grass /bracken so long trousers are a very sensible precaution.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 09/02/2018 12:30:26

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 09/02/2018 12:30:52

Thread: What Happens Next
09/02/2018 12:13:43

If you have a smartphone and are frequently off road etc, I would also recommend downloading the “Echo112”app as it alerts emergency services plus provides a grid reference it’s international too.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 09/02/2018 12:14:47

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 09/02/2018 14:39:37

Thread: STOL unbelievable
08/02/2018 16:56:37

Interesting post. I have had great success shortening the landing on my Wot 4XL by using flapperons going upwards mixed with a bit of up elevator. Our crosswind runway is short and the low Wing loading and powerful engine keep it running on and on in light winds . I also use Chris Foss’s air brake design in my kit built Wot 4 that’s also powerful and can run on a bit with its nice overpowered laser 80. I have the air brakes operating on the side slider on the right side of the transmitter so they are proportional and can be accessed swiftly!

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 08/02/2018 16:58:53

Thread: Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?
05/02/2018 11:38:21

Hi chaps will post up a picture what I have done re flaps . I have built mine but will not be fixing them on until I have glassed the whole wing. I have made flaps from thin 1/16 “ (I think )ply that I have laminated with glass . They mount flat on the surface and will be hinged into a length of 1/2 inch square balsa I have glued into the wing . The flaps will have balsa fairing all round to blend them into the wing. The trailing edge will have a 5mm strip to blend it in and will also act as reinforcement. My flaps will strengthen the wing . Each flap has its own servo box which is also glass laminated. My wings will be strong 😉

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 05/02/2018 11:39:14

Thread: Re: Death of IC
02/02/2018 11:54:02

One thing I would remark on is that it’s a shame Thunder Tiger stopped making their Ready “trainer”. That was/is the favourite ARTF for lots of guys at my club plus many experienced flyers had one, and I’m surprised if it wasn’t selling well. The strong (and heavy!) plastic body was very easy to clean and it made it a good winter plane too. I see from RCM&E magazine that Ripmax have updated the Wot Trainer, and obviously there is still the Boomerang too to keep that market supplied. We still have quite a number of 40- 60 glow 2s flyers as well as 4s in 70-150 sizes.

31/01/2018 16:20:25

Most regular flyers at my club fly both electric and glow/petrol. A few “converted” to just electric and petrol but have now started to use glow again . We have two electric purists who do not fly any IC and are happy and enjoy their chosen power source and fly good planes very well. Noise isn’t an issue at my club although I still moan at a clubmate with his “rowdy” DLE 55 which could be easily silenced😊 if I could only get him to agree and phone just engines! I admit to being a biased IC enthusiast and only occasionally fly electric foamies when there is nothing else available. Otherwise all my models have IC engines either 2s or 4s. I do think both 2s and 4s glow engines still have a good niche, despite the popularity of petrol in large scale models. If I was going to build s 50 cc plane it would most likely be petrol I think,

Thread: Laser Engines - Technical questions
20/01/2018 16:26:17

My unused fuel always goes back into the bottle (can ) as it’s filtered on the way out when filling the tank . That is plenty. I don’t ever use fuel filters in glow planes as it’s something else to go wrong and not always easy to access plus it should be remembered that filters don’t often suddenly block, they do it over time and performance is slowly eroded and that can sometimes be hard to diagnose.

Thread: Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?
27/12/2017 13:45:41

Thanks Richard that sounds a very good idea too.

27/12/2017 13:00:45

Thanks chaps I think my preliminary thoughts concur. I’m probably now going to fibreglass/epoxy my wings (I’m a boat builder at heart and I do like using it 🙂 . My main reason for wanting flaps is I like having them on my planes as i find it an extra bit of fun to use them . My BH Chipmunk 60 has them as does my P47 (Laser 100) , and my World Models Spitfire 60 , so I don’t want this to be the odd one out . I also tend to build a bit heavy so it’s nice having them on a calm day when my hefty models need the extra lift . I even put flap/air brakes on my 80 powered Wot 4😊. As Bob says non scale full flaps would be easiest to fit in and would be like a mini aileron just with bottom hinging . If I use split flaps I will have to be very careful with the rear edge although fibre glass reinforcement will easily stiffen it, but the sanding will need to be very delicate. I will let you know how I get on . I don’t think I will use the litho plate though as fine epoxy/glass should be stiffer and won’t dent . Anyway I will post up once I get started. First I need to finish the retract surface blending in. Happy Building.

27/12/2017 11:39:29

Hope all had a merry and healthy Christmas! 😊. have almost finished on the retracts now and used gorilla glue to set the boxes in . Is anyone else going to be using flaps? I would like to and that would be my next main job . However it does seem the trailing edge is very thin to try to use the required split flaps on this model . If I make split flaps I will probably need to start them about 1cm in from the trailing edge. I would be interested in seeing what others have done.

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 27/12/2017 11:40:13

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