By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for TIM Shaw

Here is a list of all the postings TIM Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: SCEN Puma 3
21/07/2017 11:38:18


Thread: Acro Wot Kit
21/07/2017 11:28:29

A drop of cyano wicked in before you try and cut the cable works too..

Thread: Kwik Fli 40
17/07/2017 21:19:30

There was no hint of flutter or anything like that Nigel, just a sharp crack..

And there is no obvious crack external to the fuz either, although I have yet to cut into it - been a bit down from the Radiotherapy I'm going through, TBH, kind of drained and lacking in enthusiasm for anything.

Ends this Thursday though, so onwards and upwards....

17/07/2017 15:48:52

Absolutely guys - I've used 1/4" sheet for years on anything up to 46 powered models with no problems - maybe even 61, can't quite remember what my old Gangster 63 was.

I used medium to hard sheet, made up of 3 pieces, one rectangle and two triangles for the LE, so if I had a bad joint between the two triangles there is the potential for a stress concentration there

Certainly I will be looking for stress concentrations due to careless trimming. It occurred to me I did have trouble with errant cyano locking my pushrods and fairly brutal surgery was required in the are below the TP to sort it - it maybe the mount has failed rather than the Tailplane itself - it's not loose exactly, it just seems that one side can be moved up and down a little rather more easily than I would expect.

Let you know what I find.

16/07/2017 18:06:50

So I didn't fancy the drive to Retford today, but did make it up to the local field this afternoon.

With a new throttle servo fitted and the engine finally breaking in nicely I was really enjoying myself.

I had increased the rudder throw considerably and it will now hold true knife edge both ways very nicely, although you still have to watch any crosswind to get the stall turn correct.

Unfortunately, pulling out of a half cuban 8 there was a clearly audible crack, loud enough to be heard by everyone on the field, and although nothing was visibly amiss it seemed to have developed either a bit of up trim or a rearward CG, so I landed it before anything nasty happened.

Casual inspection showed nothing wrong, to the extent that one club member suggested it could have been a motorbike backfiring as it passed our gate, but it seems the Tailplane (which was 1/4" sheet balsa, sorry Martin) has cracked across the middle as a result of in-flight loads.

Not quite sure yet as surgery will be required, but anyone planning a similar build might like to consider a spruce spar in the tail.

Thread: Acro Wot Kit
15/07/2017 22:16:58

Hi Michael

The rudder control system you refer to is called a closed loop. Its just 2 wires, one from each side of the servo connected to each side of the rudder horn, and all the kits I have built have the necessary bits included.

As for the tail wheel, I think the original idea is to stick a pin into the base of the rudder and use a small rubber band to connect that to the arm on the tail wheel .

But I have found the ground handling id fine if you just fit a skid, TBH, and its much simpler.

There again, I don't do the whole taxying thing - I just head into wind, open it up and leap into the air.


Thread: SCEN Puma 3
15/07/2017 11:30:03

I've only ever bent headers by accident, involving rapid deceleration from high speed on contact with the ground...

You could consider spacing the header off the exhaust port instead - if you could lay your hands on some 1/4" flat bar , drilkls, files and some longer mounting bolts.

Thread: Kwik Fli 40
14/07/2017 22:50:55

So I tried to post a few pics showing the process - seem to have come out a bit backwards, and the editing features on her are not compatible with my thought processes...

Was hoping to take it to the Retford meet, but I am in the middle of a Radiotherapy course and not at my best, so that might not happen



So I hope you got the idea. Agree absolutely about the glue, even if when I cut a normal core I cut holes in it and avoid putting glue there to save weight

Edited By TIM Shaw on 14/07/2017 22:56:08

14/07/2017 11:40:09

Hi Nigel

Its just under 4 lbs mate.

Wing is a little unual because I didn't have any big enough bits of foam, and previous attempt at sticking bits of foam together were not entirely successful as the glue tends to snag the wire..

So I built a 1/8" balsa framework of the planform, stuck strips of blue foam to either side of it for the D box, ribs and TE, then hot wired the section, and then sheeted that with 1/16" balsa.

Thread: Acro Wot Kit
13/07/2017 10:52:33

Hi Michael

It all looks pretty good to me - satisfying to create something isn't it?

I agree, 148s will be fine.

I tend to paint my models before I hinge the surfaces, I dry fit mylar hinges temporarily during the build, remove them again prior to covering, and only epoxy them inn after all covering, painting etc has been completed.

Then I pin them and I don't try and hide the pins - it gives me a certain amount of reassurance to be able to see them.

If you have already glued your hinges in then i guess painting will be a bit more difficult - is this what you mean by "gaps where the hinges are?"

David is quite right about the slow speed flight capabilitie, the Acrowot will happily fly backwards in a good blow, will land slowly and is very reluctant to drop a wing - although it will if you really provoke it.

Glenns idea is neat too, as anyone who has laboured with a heated screwdriver trying to extract the broken bit of a nylon bolt out of the nut will agree, and he is right about gluing back oil - soaked wood, That particular problem has caused me to give away at least three of my well-flown ( perhaps that should have been "much flown" ones to club mates after i got fed up of trying to make a success of it.

Thread: Crescent bullet replacement
11/07/2017 14:40:27

I'm thinking that if I ditch the spike nuts and go for tapped hardwood blocks - which I prefer anyway, I can probably get away with it.

I have a choice of engines available - OS 35AX, OS 40, OS 46 and an OS 55AX as well as the Pro, but although the Bullet is a little smaller than my 35/36 powered KwickFly and Challenger, its also going to rather more bulky and quite a bit heavier, so I'm leaning towards the Thunder Tiger. I can of course always throttle it back......

Thread: Kwik Fli 40
10/07/2017 16:52:30

Oops - sorry - that Nuance is a BJ Craft model, as is the Fantasista 110 he made me fly yesterday smile d

08/07/2017 22:05:58
Posted by Martyn K on 07/07/2017 13:03:29:

That looks lovely Tim. Very nice and your canopy looks far sleeker than mine.

Interesting about the stall turn. When the model is flying it should have no idea which way the wind is blowing..

I think there is plenty of rudder authority, its lack of fuselage depth is the problem. Try a 80 degree knife edge. You may be surprised

Thanks for building it, I really appreciate it.

Ok So now I know what you are saying about the side area.

Was a beautiful day today, and I had a great flight with it. Then my throttle servo died and my good friend Jim insisted I had a flight with his Sebart Nuance 110, on 6s electrics ( the work of beelzebub in my view)

Yes. Something of an eye opener tbh, but somehow, nowhere near as much fun as a classic..

But applying the sort of rudder I need to hold the KFs nose up in knife edge resulted in a fairly spectacular (totally unintended) knife edge loop blush

Know which I prefer tot fly though, - and it involves smoke,oil, mess and noise!

Thread: LOADED DICE 40
07/07/2017 17:05:43
Posted by Tony Cook on 07/07/2017 16:54:47:
Perfect..thanks Martyn I knew it was simple enough. Thanks to all for the comments/ replies. Got an asp32 with tuned pipe that needs a plane!! What shall i build next for ukcaa??

80% Challenger would probably suit, or the Kwick Fly 4 / 40 (not sure about the pipe though) , SupraFly 25 or Mystic 30?

Thread: Crescent bullet replacement
07/07/2017 17:02:56

Hi Dennis

Yeah, I know about the advantages of separate aileron servos, having been flying mostly F3f type gliders for the last few years - its partly as a reaction to that I went for the "simplicity" of the original set up.

I've never found differential to help with a symmetrical wing, TBH, but as Bob says, these old models tended to roll quickly anyway - although a slow roll is sometimes required.

I've done it both ways - built an 80% Challenger with a single set-up and both an 80% Mach1 and KF 4/40 with a pair of side mounted HS 85MGs in the wings. What really winds me up is that I built an original Crescent kit back in about 1987 - and I'm pretty sure, now I think about it, I had exactly the same problem back then!


Edited By TIM Shaw on 07/07/2017 17:17:31

Thread: LOADED DICE 40
07/07/2017 16:35:46

You got it Tony - I probably read the same article. Guessing you need a common negative as well as signal though?

Thread: Crescent bullet replacement
07/07/2017 14:37:53
Posted by Richard Wood on 08/03/2016 08:59:47:

Hi Jack, One big advantage of wing mounted aileron servos is that it neatly gets
around an error in the design of the kit - the wing mounting bolts will foul the aileron
torque rods if it is built without modification. Perhaps this problem has been fixed
in latest kits.

Edited By Richard Wood on 08/03/2016 09:01:13

I know this is an old thread but I wish I'd read it before I started putting mine together because I can absolutely confirm this little problem has NOT been fixed - I went for a single servo in the interests of originality and am now wishing I hadn't...

I was thinking a Thunder Tiger PRO 46 might be suitable, or might that be a tad too much?

Thread: Kwik Fli 40
07/07/2017 14:07:32

Just for a cheap laugh you might notice the second pic does not have the U/C fitted. I prefer fuz mounted, tail draggers for ruggedness - probably overly cautious since our field has been improved so much in the last 30 years, but old habits and all that.

Originally, I made the legs too long and it looked daft - and I will admit, this model would look much better as a trike - so I removed the legs, cut the axles off, re- bent new ones and bolted the legs back on.

Only then did I realise I had made a small mistake....


The canopy is simply carved from blue foam (well, it was my fourth attempt, tbh) until it looked right, then covered with glass cloth and eazykote. Its got a bit marked by handling issues but it looks fine in the air.

07/07/2017 14:01:15

All good points.

If I fly straight into wind there is no issue with the stall turn, but very rarely is this actually the case - particularly if trying a figure M. And if there is any component of side wind, as Lucas says, it tends to blow the tail away and the model weathercocks into wind - don't forget, at the point of a stall turn it has no forward movement either, so has no idea where it is!

We shouldn't be surprised at that really, as surely this is the function of the fin?

I know exactly what you mean about an 80 degree "cheat" knife - I can do a very nice version of my Wall of Death ( christened on the slope, as it looks so wrong....) with it, which is a knife edge, outside, 360 degree outside turn.

But in pure knife edge I feel a bit more rudder would be a good thing, I may be able to solve it with upping the movement a bit but have yet to get into fine tuning - I like flying it so much!

07/07/2017 12:49:34

Just so you know your work is appreciated Martyn, heres a couple of pics of my KF 4 40, powered by OS35 AX and 10x7 APC prop. Flies really nicely, although I've also noticed it is reluctant to stall turn away from the wind and the rudder is a bit lacking in authority in knife edge.

Built from your drawings and a real pleasure to do. Added the wing fillets in a bid to avoid the tail wag and I am pleased to say she hows no sign of it.

kf4 40.jpg20170330_111225.jpg

Email News - Join our newsletter

Love Model Aircraft? Sign up to our emails for the latest news and special offers!

Support Our Partners
Gliders Distribution
TJD Models
Expo Tools 14 July
Advertise With Us
Latest "For Sale" Ads
How many metres do you have to walk with your models and gear to the flying area?
Q: How many metres do you have to walk with your models and gear to the flying area?

 Less than 20m
 20 to 100m
 100 to 200m
 200 to 500m
 More than 500m

Latest Reviews
Digital Back Issues

RCM&E Digital Back Issues

Contact us

Contact us