Here is a list of all the postings TIM Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cocktail stick through mylar hinge|
I'd ALWAYS pin Mylar hinges, doesn't have to be a cocktail stick, some people use dress makers pins and I normally use panel pins, but you want something through it to stop the hinge pulling out - and when a hinge does pull out it is usually fatal for the model.
In the situation you describe I would probably have added a scrap balsa infill to form the bottom of the rudder post, but I guess its a bit late for that now....
|Thread: Spring is Here....|
Absolutely, great at Huddersfield too.
Punched a few holes in the beautiful blue yonder with my baby Challenger myself...
Well attended, but, sadly, a couple of crashes here too.
Roll on tomorrow!
(errr, is that now " today????"
|Thread: Bubble canopies|
IIRC, I paid $17.00 for the three canopies and $13.50 delivery.
Small credit card transaction fee too.
Delivery was about 10 days from memory
You could try these guys
I recently bought a couple of Aurora 45 canopies and a Dirty Birdy one from them. Prices are not unreasonable, shipping's a bit steep but service was impeccable and quality looks good to me.
Having said that, they don't actually list a Kaos one - the Quick Flea may be similar?
|Thread: The fuel tank puzzle|
Not familiar with that particular model, but I'm guessing the engine mount and the tank are on roughly the same centre line, so that, in normal flight your carb is going to be somewhat higher than the tank centre.
Inverted however, your carb is going to be a fair bit lower than the tank centre, so you might expect the engine to go rich, which would account for the revs dropping. However, you would then expect a burst of smoke when it picks up again, particularly on 20% oil - synthetic, I presume?
I would get someone to hold the model inverted, with the motor running, and try and tune it for max revs in that attitude - if you have to lean it out significantly then - probably - your tank position is too low in the fuz.
If you can't get it to run properly then you more likely have a problem with your clunk or feed line within the tank itself. Have you tried shaking the model (with the engine stopped....) to make sure you can hear the clunk moving?
Just out of interest, how is your engine mounted - upright, inverted or sidewinder?
Yes you can use separate servos on each elevator half.
Either connect them both to the elevator channel using a Y lead, or use two different channels and set up a mix in your TX. Be aware though that you could have some trim issues using a mix - you may find the elevator trim only acts on the servo plugged into the elevator channel....
|Thread: Starting a motor for the first time|
That depends on whether the engine is a ringed type - in which case I would do something similar, but in a model rather than a test stand, and I'd fly it, albeit slightly rich for the first half dozen flights or so.
For an ABC type motor though, I'd absolutely NOT go through this type of procedure, mount it in a plane and go fly it, tweaking the bottom end after each flight if necessary, and while taking care not to get it at all lean, I'd not run it deliberately rich either.
Why? because I believe it is important it wears in under the conditions you are going to use it, in particular the cooling characterisitics of an engine in flight are very different from those on the ground. I would probaby leave a full cowl off though - you really don't want any cooling problems either.
But thats just me.......
|Thread: Setting up RC for Howzat slope soarer using Spektrum DX6i|
Its actually worse than that mate - Crow braking requires 4 separate surfaces (at a pinch, three if you just have one central flap, but that's a special case) crow braking then drops the inboard flaps while raising the outboard ailerons. This would be some trick with combined, full span ailerons / flaps, if I understand your set up correctly.
With only one moveable surface on each side full crow cannot be done - the best you can achieve is spoilerons.
You could mix that to your throttle stick using a free mixer rather than the dedicated crow function, but that's about it.
|Thread: Learning to play guitar|
Many common threads here
I learned to play the violin at school, went through all the local youth orchestras, and quite enjoyed it - but the fiddle was never "cool", and I always wanted a Guitar.
Bought my first electric off a mate for a fiver (about 1974?) Then bought a pretty looking semin-Acoustic from a S/H shop which was garbage, though i didn't realise it at the time.
Rather lost interest until I went back home with a new flying buddy, and noticed he had a Fender Strat hanging on the wall - I asked him if was a real one, and after he calmed down a bit he explained yes it was a 60s vintage Strat he used to play professionally.
With his help and encouragement I took it up again, and we used to jam quite happily when it was too wet to fly...
I now have a selection of quite nice guitars, including one I built myselffrom a kit, but with added Seymour Duncan quarter pounder pickups, and I play around with at least one of them most evennings, thogh not very well, and strictly rhythm.
Advice - Get yourself a well set -up instrument, and play it before you buy it.
Don't be too ambitious.
Its easier to get a decent sound out an electric than it is out of an Acoustic ( although you can make some pretty awful ones too....)
Electric necks are easier to play than classical ones.
I f you can find other local players you will be amazed how much help will willingly be given, and just how simple some of the tricks are - keep an eye on the local live music scene - do any local pubs host acoustic nights? for example.
|Thread: Time to change car|
Just a quick correction - the new Mazda MX5 was developed alongside Alfa, but that relationship went awry and the Italian version is the new Fiat 124, which is essentially the same car but with a different engine.
I have the MX5 (well, my wife usually drives it) and you're quite right it is not a good modelling car - I can get a 40 size pattern type model and an Erwin in the passenger sea, but that's about it!
Its great to drive though, a huge improvement on the old model, and, only having a 1500cc engine means it can be fun to drive without going stupidly quickly....
The Alfa Spyder is a totally different beast.
I had three volvo estates in the past, including a V70 T5, which was a flying machine but very thirsty, and I now run a 420D BMW coupe - rear seats fold flat to get most things in, but I do miss the practicality of an estate car.
At work we have a Mondeo 2.2 estate and a Hyundai I40 estate, which is a very nice car, but in my view the Mondeo is much better, if you really want people carriers, we also have a Chrysler Voyager which is quite cavernous with the rear seats folded away, but I hate driving that1
Ultimately, cars are very personal things, its a decision really only you can make.
|Thread: Spot The Difference!|
Someone has dug up the flowerbed and planted a runway?
|Thread: Which servos would you choose?|
In that case, anything should be fine!
You asked for opinions, mine and Ians happen to be different, that's all, and I confess my training experience was mostly in the late 1980s when certainly a couple of High wing "Trainers" with dodgy noselegs may have caused me to form what is now an outdated one.
I make no apologies for my Luddite tendencies though - part of the local history round here.....
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:39:09
And when it fails on the take-off run, and heads for the pits, you'd wish you hadn't!
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:35:10
Hardly relevant to mode 1 or mode 2, but since you ask....
My preferred route would be to ditch the noseleg, move the mains forward to the LE or just in front, maybe fit a tailskid, and fly it as a tail dragger. In the past, our club field was rough grass and steerable noselegs are a pain on that surface - even now, when our field is miles better than it was, my Dynam Meteor noseleg is a constant source of maintenance.
Option2 would be stick with the noseleg, but lock it straight ahead and forget the steering.
Limited experience of Karbonite - when they first came out one of our more progressive members turned up with a couple on the elevons of his 60" EPP slope wing. Stripped first flight, after a not too bad landing, so I've never bothered with them since. If I need stronger gears I go straight to MGs.
JMTC - feel free to move this post if its in the wrong place!
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:32:25
|Thread: Why learn aerobatics? How learn aerobatics?|
I'm sure the 45 AX would be adequate, I wouldn't go for a 35 in something that size myself.
Not least because I am reminded the other thing that tends to differentiate the better pilots (and is rarely mentioned) is the proper, proportional use of the throttle.......
Absolutely agree with all of this, C8s description of himself fits me pretty well too....
My first low winger (circa 1987) was also an Acrowot and I still love the way they fly - I have a Foamie e version at present and my sixth traditional kit in the build list in the garage.
Having said that, they are great sports models but not as good at pure aerobatics - the tail moment is rather short and the tailplane is mounted a litle high which causes it to pull significantly towards the underside in knife edge. It also means they will spin rather better inverted than they do right side up if you want to have fun though!
My Guru back then was into competition aerobatics and never liked how the Acrowot flew, I have a fairly vivid memory of the time he handed me his TX and said - "here, have a feel what a real model should fly like"
This was a Prettner Magic with retracts and a piped YS 61 in it, and was something of an eye-opener....
I acquired a Curare shortly afterwards, then a Challenger, Suprafly 45, Calypso among others over the years.
Not a great believer in simulators, TBH, but that might just be me, I think you would be far better getting hold of an older pattern type plane and doing it for real, but I agree they do tend to be a bit quick.
Perhaps take a look at Mick Reeves Gangster 63 light? not strictly a pattern model but still pretty capable, and built light it doesn't need too much power or to fly too fast.. Personally, i have developed a fascination with 40 sized, 2 stroke powered version of the classics, done a mini Mach 1 and an 80% Challenger so far, plotting a KwikFly 4-40 as we speak, but they do cover a lot of sky and get very small very quickly - I'm also late fifties and not as mentally agile or as sharp sighted as I used to be either.
But the flying advice is sound too - give yourself a target for each flight and perfect the elements. Not all on here would agree with the next bit but I found it very useful to fly an early version of the Clubman Turnaround schedule - really focuses the mind on positioning, tracking and height. I used to fly it immediately after take off every flight, practice the bits I felt were awful, then relax for the rest of the flight as it can get rather stressful if you get too intense - its still meant to be fun!
Edited By TIM Shaw on 14/02/2017 11:45:14
|Thread: Can You Name ALL These WW 2 Aircraft?|
A mere 35 here, and some of those were guesses...
Guess I'm not quite as old as some of you guys.......
|Thread: Supra Fly 45|
Sorry to hear that Steve, hope it all goes well for you.
Brown Paper Eh.....
That brings back memories, but I would say its actually easier to do than tissue / dope.
Technique i was taught was to soak the brown paper through, either with thin PVA or wallpaper paste and let it go soggy - like you would if hanging wall paper, then lay it onto the wing and smooth out, again as if wall papering.
Tricky bit is you need to do both surfaces at once and hang it up to dry, otherwise it is very likely to warp.
Finished result I think is tougher than tissue, but does not add much strength - don't try it over an open structure....
Steve - is that Suprafly available as a kit? I used to have one from the kit, bought S/hand with a piped Rossi 60, 5 port and mechanical retracts, and I remember it as the nicest pattern plane i ever had.
Could fancy another.....
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