Here is a list of all the postings TIM Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Learning to play guitar|
Many common threads here
I learned to play the violin at school, went through all the local youth orchestras, and quite enjoyed it - but the fiddle was never "cool", and I always wanted a Guitar.
Bought my first electric off a mate for a fiver (about 1974?) Then bought a pretty looking semin-Acoustic from a S/H shop which was garbage, though i didn't realise it at the time.
Rather lost interest until I went back home with a new flying buddy, and noticed he had a Fender Strat hanging on the wall - I asked him if was a real one, and after he calmed down a bit he explained yes it was a 60s vintage Strat he used to play professionally.
With his help and encouragement I took it up again, and we used to jam quite happily when it was too wet to fly...
I now have a selection of quite nice guitars, including one I built myselffrom a kit, but with added Seymour Duncan quarter pounder pickups, and I play around with at least one of them most evennings, thogh not very well, and strictly rhythm.
Advice - Get yourself a well set -up instrument, and play it before you buy it.
Don't be too ambitious.
Its easier to get a decent sound out an electric than it is out of an Acoustic ( although you can make some pretty awful ones too....)
Electric necks are easier to play than classical ones.
I f you can find other local players you will be amazed how much help will willingly be given, and just how simple some of the tricks are - keep an eye on the local live music scene - do any local pubs host acoustic nights? for example.
|Thread: Time to change car|
Just a quick correction - the new Mazda MX5 was developed alongside Alfa, but that relationship went awry and the Italian version is the new Fiat 124, which is essentially the same car but with a different engine.
I have the MX5 (well, my wife usually drives it) and you're quite right it is not a good modelling car - I can get a 40 size pattern type model and an Erwin in the passenger sea, but that's about it!
Its great to drive though, a huge improvement on the old model, and, only having a 1500cc engine means it can be fun to drive without going stupidly quickly....
The Alfa Spyder is a totally different beast.
I had three volvo estates in the past, including a V70 T5, which was a flying machine but very thirsty, and I now run a 420D BMW coupe - rear seats fold flat to get most things in, but I do miss the practicality of an estate car.
At work we have a Mondeo 2.2 estate and a Hyundai I40 estate, which is a very nice car, but in my view the Mondeo is much better, if you really want people carriers, we also have a Chrysler Voyager which is quite cavernous with the rear seats folded away, but I hate driving that1
Ultimately, cars are very personal things, its a decision really only you can make.
|Thread: Spot The Difference!|
Someone has dug up the flowerbed and planted a runway?
|Thread: Which servos would you choose?|
In that case, anything should be fine!
You asked for opinions, mine and Ians happen to be different, that's all, and I confess my training experience was mostly in the late 1980s when certainly a couple of High wing "Trainers" with dodgy noselegs may have caused me to form what is now an outdated one.
I make no apologies for my Luddite tendencies though - part of the local history round here.....
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:39:09
And when it fails on the take-off run, and heads for the pits, you'd wish you hadn't!
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:35:10
Hardly relevant to mode 1 or mode 2, but since you ask....
My preferred route would be to ditch the noseleg, move the mains forward to the LE or just in front, maybe fit a tailskid, and fly it as a tail dragger. In the past, our club field was rough grass and steerable noselegs are a pain on that surface - even now, when our field is miles better than it was, my Dynam Meteor noseleg is a constant source of maintenance.
Option2 would be stick with the noseleg, but lock it straight ahead and forget the steering.
Limited experience of Karbonite - when they first came out one of our more progressive members turned up with a couple on the elevons of his 60" EPP slope wing. Stripped first flight, after a not too bad landing, so I've never bothered with them since. If I need stronger gears I go straight to MGs.
JMTC - feel free to move this post if its in the wrong place!
Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 16/02/2017 17:32:25
|Thread: Why learn aerobatics? How learn aerobatics?|
I'm sure the 45 AX would be adequate, I wouldn't go for a 35 in something that size myself.
Not least because I am reminded the other thing that tends to differentiate the better pilots (and is rarely mentioned) is the proper, proportional use of the throttle.......
Absolutely agree with all of this, C8s description of himself fits me pretty well too....
My first low winger (circa 1987) was also an Acrowot and I still love the way they fly - I have a Foamie e version at present and my sixth traditional kit in the build list in the garage.
Having said that, they are great sports models but not as good at pure aerobatics - the tail moment is rather short and the tailplane is mounted a litle high which causes it to pull significantly towards the underside in knife edge. It also means they will spin rather better inverted than they do right side up if you want to have fun though!
My Guru back then was into competition aerobatics and never liked how the Acrowot flew, I have a fairly vivid memory of the time he handed me his TX and said - "here, have a feel what a real model should fly like"
This was a Prettner Magic with retracts and a piped YS 61 in it, and was something of an eye-opener....
I acquired a Curare shortly afterwards, then a Challenger, Suprafly 45, Calypso among others over the years.
Not a great believer in simulators, TBH, but that might just be me, I think you would be far better getting hold of an older pattern type plane and doing it for real, but I agree they do tend to be a bit quick.
Perhaps take a look at Mick Reeves Gangster 63 light? not strictly a pattern model but still pretty capable, and built light it doesn't need too much power or to fly too fast.. Personally, i have developed a fascination with 40 sized, 2 stroke powered version of the classics, done a mini Mach 1 and an 80% Challenger so far, plotting a KwikFly 4-40 as we speak, but they do cover a lot of sky and get very small very quickly - I'm also late fifties and not as mentally agile or as sharp sighted as I used to be either.
But the flying advice is sound too - give yourself a target for each flight and perfect the elements. Not all on here would agree with the next bit but I found it very useful to fly an early version of the Clubman Turnaround schedule - really focuses the mind on positioning, tracking and height. I used to fly it immediately after take off every flight, practice the bits I felt were awful, then relax for the rest of the flight as it can get rather stressful if you get too intense - its still meant to be fun!
Edited By TIM Shaw on 14/02/2017 11:45:14
|Thread: Can You Name ALL These WW 2 Aircraft?|
A mere 35 here, and some of those were guesses...
Guess I'm not quite as old as some of you guys.......
|Thread: Supra Fly 45|
Sorry to hear that Steve, hope it all goes well for you.
Brown Paper Eh.....
That brings back memories, but I would say its actually easier to do than tissue / dope.
Technique i was taught was to soak the brown paper through, either with thin PVA or wallpaper paste and let it go soggy - like you would if hanging wall paper, then lay it onto the wing and smooth out, again as if wall papering.
Tricky bit is you need to do both surfaces at once and hang it up to dry, otherwise it is very likely to warp.
Finished result I think is tougher than tissue, but does not add much strength - don't try it over an open structure....
Steve - is that Suprafly available as a kit? I used to have one from the kit, bought S/hand with a piped Rossi 60, 5 port and mechanical retracts, and I remember it as the nicest pattern plane i ever had.
Could fancy another.....
|Thread: poor running sc 46|
Take your point on Beelzebub as I used to think that way too.
Until I found carbon type debris in my needle valve, presumably blown out of the silencer, which was causing me similar problems to yje one you seem to be having.......
I have read this thread with interest as I know how frustrating this sort of problem can be, although I have run OS, ASP, Magnum Pro, Thunder Tigre Pro and old SCs successfully over the years - all work well when properly sorted.
IS there any chance you could be getting fuel foaming in the tank by returning the pressure line below the surface of the fuel, possibly exacerbated by vibration when the engine is fitted in the model - Prop balanced, or something loose in the mountings worth checking too.
Have you removed the needle fully and blown fuel through the spray bar, checked for debris on the needle itself?
I like to prove my fuel system by disconnecting the fuel and pressure lines, sealing on and blowing down the other. Make sure it holds pressure by releasing the blocked one few seconds later and listening for the hiss.
Make sure the tanks empty though as an earful of 10% nitro is best avoided!
Then reconnect the fuel line and blow fuel through the spray bar to make sure there is no blockage.
Is the filter clean, and more subtle, is it properly sealed?
I confess I used to epoxy the carbs in on the older ASPs to stop then drawing air through poor surfaces, but I guess that area has been covered already.
|Thread: Winters Here Who's Been Flying ?|
Same story in sunny 'Uddersfield. Glorious afternoon, if a bit chilly at around 5c and only 3 of us on the power field.
Spotted 4 or 5 others on the slope site but didn't venture into there.
|Thread: **NEW POLL** - What's the main radio brand you use 2017?|
MacGrgegor, Sanwa, JR. and Taranis in my history, with a brief, unsuccessful, flirtation with Futaba.
Recently gone over to Hitec Aurora 9x though, which I think is a super piece of kit - nice sticks, well balanced, easy to program and not ridiculously priced...
|Thread: Hacker Vagabond 1.5m Aerobat|
AMT = All Moving Tail
Although it really means all moving tailplane - no separate elevators.
|Thread: precedent hi boy|
I remember the HiBoy vividly. I never owned one, but I was doing a lot of training in the late 80s / early 90s and I shuddered whenever one turned up, praying it was on mode 1 (I fly mode 2....)
Sure, they varied widely and the better built ones did fly better than the less well built ones, but the original Yamamoto (not the later, GF bodied one), Moonraker and Chris Fosses trainer, whose name currently escapes me) were all much better.
Yes, narrow hinge gaps help with control authority, and hence general flying characteristics, and can be achieved in 2 basic ways.
The best is simply careful building, make sure the edges are straight, the hinge line is exactly on the point of the bevel, take care in your sanding - all obvious once you done it a few times but not immediately apparent in the excitement of nearly completing your first build.
The alternative and I guess ultimate way is to seal the gaps as the glider guys do. I doubt full wiper set-ups are worth doing on most power models, but silicon hinging or film sealing might solve the problem on a badly finished model.
I recently silicon sealed the gap on a scratch built, 80% scale Mach 1 pattern ship and the surfaces were certainly very powerful. I cheated actually, hinged with mylar strip as normal, then, at full deflection ran in a tiny bead of aquarium sealer along the hinge line from 1cc syringe, smoothed it out with a damp finger, and the jobs done.
The trick is not to use too much....
|Thread: Rolling Circles|
Personally, I would work on your slow rolls and maybe 4 point rolls first. You need to be confident you can at least point the nose back up again should you need to in a hurry.
There are 2 distinct types of rolling circle ( actually, if you go far enough back, there's a third one, but can't get my head around that one myself).
If you want to do continual rolls whilst performing a flat circle its actually quite simple.
All you do is roll slowly and hold the down elevator you would use for inverted in until you have rolled to 270 degrees, then release it and hold a little up elevator while continuing the roll to 90 degrees, ease off, and feed in down as you approach inverted, and hold it again until you get back to about 270 degrees. Repeat until the circle is complete.
If you want to so a one - roll circle, ie performing a single roll around the circumference, so that you pass through knife edge at the quarter point, reach inverted at the diameter and continue the roll to opposite knife edge at the three quarter point you need to use rudder s well - but I find that variation a lot harder.
In fact, I might have fooled myself I've almost got it once or teice, but I wouldn't try it with anyone watching....
|Thread: My latest Tiddler|
Got to maiden it in the mist and mud yesterday, flies like its on rails.
Cold and damp, only got the one flight in.
Been back today though, even saw some sun and remarkably I had the field to myself, so I burned off the best part of half a gallon of fuel and got it pretty much dialled in.
It is quick,smooth, and pretty much neutral, although it does seem to have a slight tendency to pull to the U/C in knife edge using left rudder, Strangely though, not with right rudder.
Might be due to the big wheels - they do spoil the lines a bit, but they work well on our field.
|Thread: Mode 1 or Mode 2|
Right handed Mode 2 fliers are also at an advantage launching by themselves, particularly on the slope. Less so with power perhaps, as clubmates tend to snigger at me opening the throttle with my teeth....
But I support the "stick with whatever you were taught to fly" principle. I used to run boats and car on twin stick sets, but I fly mode 2, simply because the first group of guys I met when I joined a club flew that way in 1986.
I have "rescued" the odd trainer on mode 1, but like to get rid of that responsibility as fast as possible. If you remember throttle controls your height, elevator controls your speed, I can usually get it down alright, as you are pulling back on both sticks, but you will likely be in trouble if you have to go around again.
We also had a guy who flew mode 2, throtlle reversed, and he would not change it, saying its the natural way a throttle should work. Told him I'd hate to drive his Merc, must be a devil seeing where you are going while pulling on the accelerator!
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