Here is a list of all the postings TIM Shaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help with dihedral|
You don't mention what the model is - provided it has ailerons I agree with previous comments.
However, should it just be rudder / elevator you will need a little dihedral.
|Thread: Thrust line|
Thrust line is actually a very simple concept in toy aeroplanes, and is simply the line drawn the centre of the crankshaft down the length of the model in both horizontal and vertical sections.
As such, you choose where it is going to be based on where you bolt your motor mount and any downthrust or sidethrust you want to include.
It only starts to get complicated when you try to determine where it should be, compared to the drag centres. It may be possible in theory, but I wouldn't know where to start.
So TLAR to start with, use that to fix your tank position. then downthrust, sidethrust and CG trimming once its up and flying.....
|Thread: Kwik Fli 40|
Good Luck with it Trevor.
Mine - albeit just under 3lbs has absolutely no bad habits at all, certainly no flickiness.
It's back up and running again, well enough to get 3rd at the Huddersfield meet a few weeks ago.
Build it as martin drew it and I'm sure you will love it.
It does have a rather large elevator and I think it is worthwhile paying attention to the security of the wood and linkages. Mine now has ply spreader plates top and bottom for the horn, and if I were building another I would think about twin pushrods too.
Sure you'll love it!
|Thread: New canopy?|
I'd be wary of film - you might find the heat you need to shrink the film on would distort your moulding. Strapping / combat tape would be OK though. Might be a bit brittle for the impact zone though?
|Thread: Anybody know this plane.|
Yep, they were great fun models.
IIRC, the foam wing had a symmetrical root of conventional section, transistioning to a flat plate at the tip. As anyone who has ever tried to cut a foam delta will tell you, its very difficult to use conventional root and tip sections as you get massive kerf issues where the wire is moving really slowly at the tip. I suspect these deltas were cut by using a template at the root and a flat guide at the tip, but moving the wire parallel to the LE, which doe s work well.
All deltas tend to have benign stall characteristics, and the Crusader could be flown very slowly, nose high, indeed.
I agree with Percy - that is a Challenger delta, available from the shows back in the late 80s/early 90s.
Can't remember the name of the firm though.
I had the bigger version, called the Crusader, which flew nicely on an Irvine 46, later replaced with an OS 46SF .
I think a good 32 or 36 would make it a lot of fun, but I wouldn't be going much smaller as someone once told me there is nothing as depressing to fly as an underpowered delta.
I believe they had no undercarriage, so it was hand launch and you need enough grunt to pull away cleanly or it all gets a bit too exciting.
|Thread: SCEN Puma 3|
Looking good Nigel.
Re covering - I hate covering. I filmed my little Challenger and my KF4 / 40, and was frequently heard to mutter "wish I'd glassed the b*&*^^^& thing" along the way.
I have glassed my Bullet, and am really wishing I'd filmed it....
Straight edges on overlapping film joints are very difficult, I can usually get a decent cut with a new scalpel bade, and have had some success using a rotary wallpaper trimming knife too, but it all goes pear shaped when I try to iron it on, bits shrink and pull away etc etc, so i usually end up cheating and covering the join with auto trim tape.....
Sticking the canopy on is another job I rarely do well.....
|Thread: New sport model|
I love the Acrowot, don't think there is a better sport model out there, so much so that I've built 5 so far and have an unstarted kit for my sixth. in the garage.
I had a Magnum Pro 45 in my first one, and that needed a pipe to perform properly (about 1989 though - engines might have come on a bit...)
Then I went for a 70 Surpass 4 stroke in my second and found that to be overweight and if not exactly under-powered, at least a little slow.
OS61SF however was as near perfect as i think you'll get, had similarly good results with a Thunder Tiger Pro 61 too.
Having said a ll that, suspect the ARTF is lighter than my kit builds, and I am a great believer in the OS55AX too, I think that would be plenty powerful enough and light as well.
Its also a fair point that I like to fly in a "spirited" fashion, and our strip is on fairly high, exposed moorland, so I do like to be able to cut through the weather as well.
|Thread: Dive test - someone explain it to me!|
The type of aircraft Peter is talking about are designed to be neutrally stable, and when properly trimmed each individual control input should have no side effects at all.
The downthrust angle set means that there is a small downward thrust vector which cancels out any tendency to climb with increased power.Tthey have symmetrical wing sections and fly exactly the same inverted as they do the right way up - except of course that down becomes up and up can get expensive....
I actually always do a dive test, power off at 45 degrees and hope it gently pulls out or maintains the angle, but I don't do it until I'm pretty sure it's somewhere near - tuck under can be a frightening thing.
I think a more precise indication - for the types of model I fly - is the amount of down you need to hold straight and level inverted, I prefer to have none, but thats just me
|Thread: UKCAA visit to Huddersfield MFC 2 September 2017|
Hoping for at least 3 fellow members too, and we've been doing missionary work among other local clubs.. If anyone needs guiding in, my mobile is 07904018146.
If the forecast holds and Big Tims sarnies are up to their usual standards, this should be a good do....
I'm intending being there...
|Thread: ASP 52 Blown Glowplugs|
I used to run SC 46s all the time - early ones. I always sealed the carb into the crankcase with epoxy, threw away the spring clip on the needle valve and fitted a short piece of fuel tubing over the needle / fitting.
I ran 10 x 8 APC props, Duraglow 10% Nitro and Enya No 3 plugs and found them to be reliable and powerful.
A club mate at the time was an Irvine fan, always used straight fuel and OS No 8 plugs and he had no problems either.
Then it happened I bought an Irvine 46 on his recommendation, and he bought an SC 40 on mine. Neither of us had any success with these engines at all, I was doing a plug a flight and eventually we got so fed up we swapped - he got the Irvine, I got the SC. And all our problems went away. I think because Irvines liked the straight fuel and cold plug, SCs preferred a bit of Nitro and a hot plug.
So I don't know if you have changed your fuel or plug rating, but I'd try reducing the prop size, 10% nitro and an Enya No3 plug.
|Thread: Model tech calypso|
Didn't see the crash and am not exactly a member - keep meaning to join, but life keeps getting in the way.
I had a Calypso many years ago, and I liked it, although Not as much as the Suprafly I bought it to replace. My old one resurfaced at our club recently and I was delighted to fly it again - Rossi 61 five port on a pipe. Nice.
I'm hoping to be at the Nats on Sunday, negotiating for a big enough car, but if the damage is not too awkward I would be happy to take it off your hands.
text to 07904018146 would work for me
|Thread: Preparing wings for painting|
Conventionally, I would complete all my building work before thinking about covering and painting.
So when you say you are ready to join the wings I think you actually have quite a bit of stuff to do before you get to the paint.
Are you using a single, central aileron servo, or individual ones for each aileron?
I would be cutting out the mounting boxes now before joining the wings in either case, and you will need to form the servo lead tunnels in the second case.
Then I would join the wing panels with epoxy, using the beds to keep them straight and blocking up for any dihedral - can't remember off - hand if the Acrowot has a flat upper surface - if it does, it's easier to join them upside down.
Once set, I would cut a slot right through the wing to take a full depth, 3" long 1/8" balsa sub spar, about 2 " back and parallel to the leading edge - this is not mentioned in the build instructions but will save you a lot of trouble with your wing dowels working loose in the foam in the future.
Once that is glued in and set, complete your servo box lining, then sand smooth and fill any minor imperfections.
Then you need to apply the reinforcement, which can either be epoxy and glass bandage or surgical bandage and PVA (or epoxy - but I wouldn't try PVA on glass myself).
Next step is final sanding, then covering., because you will not get a durable finish painting directly onto the wooden wing skins, probably Obechi, if building from the kit.
For a painted finish you could use doped on Modelspan tissue, or lightweight glass cloth to cover the entire wing with, and only then can you start to think about getting a decent surface finish and going through the various coats..
|Thread: Time to call it a day|
Wot Martyn said, enjoy your retirement..
But I guess I will have to have a go at cutting my own Touche surfaces now.....
|Thread: Classic British Beauty|
AC Cobra - or possibly a kit built replica of one, although most kit cars are Q registered these days.
|Thread: Acro Wot Kit|
Yep. Exactly. If you have direct servo drive to each aileron you can ignore the torque rods, and, as you say, fit an additional hinge.
Which. like all the others, you are going to pin, right?
In the old days the normal installation was a single, central servo driving the ailerons via torque rods. This is the basis the kit is sold on.
More recently, a separate servo driving each aileron directly has become the norm.
If you have fitted two aileron servos, one for each surface, then the torque rods supplied in the kit are superfluous, and you should just post them to me and forget you ever heard the term.
If, however , you are planning on using one, central servo for the ailerons we need to talk further...
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