Here is a list of all the postings Engine Doctor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dremel tools|
As an alternative to Dremel have a look at the Black and Decker rotary multinational.£43.95 from Tesco Direct. You my find it cheaper on the net. On my second one now. The first lasted about ten years of heavy use and abuse. The current one is about four years old and going strong. It's a main powered variable speed tool and comes as standard with a collet chuck so a three jaw chuck conversion is a must. Agree about the cheap copies some last a couple of years many dont last very long.Â
|Thread: Engines and parts required|
Ringed motors won't have anywhere near the compression of an ABC engine but you should feel some compression though. The only exception is an engine fitted with a Dykes ring. These are a low friction type ring that only seals firmly against the cylinder sale etc when the engine fires. Not commonly used now but were used in MK1 and Mk11 Irvine's in the 1980's 90's.Â
Re the Laser ,have you re -seated the valves? Cleaning them and fitting new springs may have affected the seating resulting in poor compression. Also have you checked that the piston ring is not stuck in its groove with carbon ?Â
After stripping many old four stroke engines with poor compression the usual culprit is a stuck piston ring and gently removing it and cleaning the groove restores compression with no parts needed.Â
|Thread: Free flight Kent outdoor flying|
Yes we still have site on Sheppey for FF , radio assist and CL flying . We have tried to arrange FF days as we did in the past but it seems every time the weather has other ideas ! The FF meetings that Mike is referring to were arranged by our then Secretary Neville Legg who sadly passed away a few years ago . Our new FF Guru is Mike Smith who has won the BMFA FF Champs a few times . Contact can be made through our club web site or at www.medwaymfc.org.uk We do intend to have FreeFlight days next year once weather improves and we still collect for the Air Ambulance so a small fee will be collected during the day. dates will be posted on the BMFA calendar next year .
|Thread: Hurricane cooling|
You could use the exhaust stacks to draw air through the cowling and a small inlet grill in the lower front. You may have to change the stacks if they are not hollow.
|Thread: Rabbit Problems|
We have Buzzards at our site , the problem is the rabbits do the damage at night ! Perhaps some European Eagle Owls could help on the night shift !!
Good luck with that one ! We have had regular visits from shooter who lamp the rabbits and take away loads but it hardly makes any difference. Tried loads of smelly deterents .............they don't work either. We used to have loads of stoats but they disappeared . Best of luck .
PS if you find something that works please let us know.
|Thread: Small engines big hassle|
you will need an old cylinder/barrel to screw the head into to hold it while tapping thread for normal glow plug and to protect the fine thread for the head to barrel joint .A lathe really does come in handy for this.
Yes you can still buy new Cox engines but the new engines are rubbish compared to the older models. Cox collectors will probably pay what looks to be very high prices for engines if they are original Cox's and not the later offerings . It's similar with other engines like ED diesels. Weston UK can supply a few models new but you occasionally see them make stupid money ,far more than new from Alan on sites like eBay and silly asking prices at swap meets. Like all our old engines the value is driven partly by nostalgia and partly by rarity but they are only worth what someone is willing to pay. $90 for the black widow in the link even a proper Cox is a steep price but if someone is stupid enough to pay it then good luck to the seller.
|Thread: Totally drained NiMh pack - can it be resuscitated, and how?|
Re flashing the batteries with a high Amper . Just my two pennyworth from my own experience. It's only a temporary fix that sometimes worked with nicads . Despite all the wonderful claims on YouTube etc it doesn't work well with NiMhs or not in my experience . I tried it on a drill pack and got the duff cell to accept a charge but it was way down on the other cells and went flat very quickly. It might be ok for boats or cars but I certainly wouldn't try or advise trying it on a flight pack. Replace with good quality pack. Don't be tempted by the high capacity AA packs of 2500mah and above. They are fragile internally and can only give you something near there stated capacity at very low discharge rates. After losing a good model due toÂ a cell going dead a few years ago I now use twin 5 cell packs on any decent models with a 2100 mah cap maximum ,giving me 4200 mah.These are connected to Rx via a "y" lead with diodes fitted. Or sub "C" cells if high current is needed. Any model with a single battery fitted isÂ tested using a load of 2.5 amps checking voltage is stable. If voltage drops quickly then it's bin time. I have tried using Life batteries but charging and balancing is a pain compared to easy to use NiMh packs.
|Thread: Small engines big hassle|
Hi OneTennor. The thread size for normal glow plugs is 1/4 x32 ME .Â I find Converted heads for Cox engines usually result in a slight drop in revs ,approx 500 rpm. Southern model craft do 15 or 20% castor fuel that these engines love. I don't usually use or like castor oil based fuels but Cox's do like it. It's the castor oil that sets in the needle valve etc that causes difficult starts after a lay up. When reassembling most Cox engines no need to worry about piston direction as most are mounted on a ball joint instead of a gudgeon pin.Â
|Thread: Hub puller required|
Edited By Engine Doctor on 04/10/2017 10:31:36
This poster does try to offer helpful advice and many terminal pullers DONT have the capacity to accept the crankshaft. Your puller obviously does but even that is at its limit from the pics you posted. Perhaps you should give details ,make etc of your puller .
The battery terminal pullers don't have enough room for crankshafts on most engines as the legs are not long enough; especially ASP or SC that have a very long threaded section .There are some pullers on eBay that are perfect for prop driver cost about £6 ish.Â
|Thread: Cataract surgery and model flying.|
I had both my eyes done about three years ago.Â Brilliant. I opted for distance lenses and distance vision is now good . I can see the sun and that's 93,000,000 miles away !!!. Seriously it has made a world of difference and models can easily bee seen now. If you need glasses wait a few weeks before getting new a new prescription. Your distance vision should be good as soon as the op is finished and reading or close up work can be done using cheap glasses from supermarket. I have recently had new prescription glasses and the optician tweeked my distance vision a bit so flying is now great. Good luckÂ
|Thread: Loaded Dice 40S - spray painting|
Hi not familiar with Oracover paint. Is it a cellulose ,acrylic or enamel paint? To get a glassy finish you will need a top Clearcoat preferably a two pack that sets firm and is fuel resistant. A few drops of plasticiser in the clear will prevent cracking. Be very careful to keep paint thin as it's heavy. You may find that base coats can be applied in autoÂÂ water based paint. It covers well and is possibly lighter when dry than the solvent paint. I apply paint to models using a small gravity fed touch in gun from my car painting days. Your compressor will be more than enough for one of these and they are fairly cheap. All your prep seem ok but sand as much of the primer off as possible using a sanding block to keep weight down and surface smooth. Holding wet and dry with fingers leaves a poor surface that looks horrible when glossed. Before applying final primer apply light dust coat of a different colour and sand back wet . This will find any low spotsÂÂ ÂÂ
I glassed a Peterborough Models Cap 21 about 20 years ago and finished itÂÂ in Electric Blue metallic with gold trim and finished it inÂÂ two packÂÂ Clearcoat . The finish was /is excellent. I only flew it a couple of times and put it away in the loft. I got it out last year an it was still immaculate after a light wipe over and it now belongs to a club mate.
PS sorry for the funny A's with hats but tablet insists on inserting them?Â
Edited By Engine Doctor on 30/09/2017 11:12:08
|Thread: Flair Legionaire|
I had one years ago with an Enya 61 FS fitted. Ground looping was a nightmare ! I never did sort it and sold it on . Once in the air it was great looking model I remember that one of our club members at the time had similar issues with his . He cured it or made it manageable by locking the wheels to the axle so both wheels turned together the UC had bushes fitted allowing the axle to turn.
Might be worth a go and not too difficult.
My other criticism of the model was the lower wing or sesquiplane was very flimsy so had a friend make some foam veneer replacementsÂ
|Thread: Z-Wire Benders|
Threaded clevises at both ends are fine once adjusted lock the thread with a drop of cyano. They can easily be undone at any time by heating .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 28/09/2017 09:49:26
You could try cutting a slot in a piece of steel plate the same gauge as your wire . Insert wire and bend ,tapping down with hammer to make a neat bend. I have two pairs both unmarked that make excellent Z bends so keep looking . Also look on eBay and the model classifieds even put a wanted add in. Â Good luck.
|Thread: DC Darts Puzzle|
There is a good history of the Dart on www.modelenginenews.org . I have had many of them over the years while collecting but never seen a plain alloy head on one but doing a Google search there is a pic of plain alloy dart ! As already said the last ones made were of varied quality and material choice was often poor. I steer clear of the late DC engines as Conrods and cylinder/piston assemblies were at best poor and if you got a good one you were lucky. The thick walled Venturi intake was due to poor casting on later models. The late model DC engines were easy to spot , apart from the Venturi ÂÂÂ they had fewer fins obviously to reduce machining times and cost and a horrible plastic tank with pressed alloy inlet/ outlet . Re the pink headed Dart . I do remember as a youngster seeing a new one in our local model shop window that had a pink head . In the above article you will see that two batches of Darts had pink heads.The article also has explanation why the external appearance( quality) changed due to different tooling etc .
Edited By Engine Doctor on 26/09/2017 10:24:58
|Thread: The art of Customer service is (not yet) dead|
Stevo why are you asking for four stroke mix ? It was sold years ago when Â the oil was of a lower spec than modern oils, it was generally a mix of castor and synthetic oils and was really messy horrible stuff. Any modern glow fuel will run a modern four stroke engine but steer clear of any containing castor oil.Â
Agree about the poor customer service though . Not just model shops are affected !Â
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