Here is a list of all the postings Ernie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Introduce myself|
Hi Martin, It'll be interesting to get your take on the difficulty of flying a model in comparison with a full size;
Are you going to build a model to advance your flying.? There is so much enjoyment to be had in putting together a traditional build.
Hi Guys, and thanks for all your help. I've managed to find a source for Solartex from Weymuller here in France. So if your needs are desperate, try their website.
Hi, don't forget diacov. As far as I know it only comes in a natural colour
Hi, There is a very fine modelshop in France called Weymuller. They seem to have solartex available. Maybe they have other solar products.
Hi Guys, and thanks; I'm working through your ideas, SMC might get some in, and Totem have only one roll. I wonder how close oratex is. Ie solartex top of wings, and Oratex below.
Like the farman David.......Ill try a few more shops before I panic
Hi guys from a warm sunny France (hee hee)
Now, my lovely fokker is sitting beside me in a part covered state. BUT it's half covered in solartex, and I just don't reckon I have enough to finish it. Two rolls of antique would be enough, maybe one at a pinch. There is a french shop that lists it as available, but after a month wait, they have decided it's (rupture de stock) ie there's none left
So three questions does anyone have a couple of rolls to sell me,
what is a very close alternative.
is there any available in the UK
|Thread: I'm looking for a proofreader for a short text .|
Bonjour Pierre, If UI can be of any help, I'm resident in Saintes, Charante Maritime. I'm always pleased to help with anything Français
|Thread: dural undercarriages|
Hi Here are three pix of a carbon UC that I moulded for my Tony N lysander
1 is the mould that I knocked up from scrap wood. The face for moulding on is on the outside. I give that surface a rub with furniture polish to help to release the finished bit.
2 is the half finished plane, with the UC in place. In this case the finish is not too important because the whole assembly will be covered with a fairing
3 a kit from carbonmods which has all you need to do the job, with piles left over. It comprises carbon cloth, two part resin, and a bundle of wee bits to make life easioer
Hi Ron, I'l dig out some pix
Hi Angus, It is remarkably easy to make one from carbon fibre....Stronger and to my eye really classy
|Thread: Insuring my models|
Sorry Pete, I plead complete innocence, or maybe naivety. I can't even remember what the title was. Promise, I'll look to mr. albatross for my next german warbird
Hi Guys, The house insurance has come up for renewal.
The workshop is as ever causing consternation..The value of tools and equipment is easy to figure out, if surprisingly high (lathe, airbrush, etc) But how do I value my planes?
For example, a 2m own design powered glider.....say 100hours building,+ around £200 for all the bits. And of course the 5 year build Fokker. Mon dieu Ive just spent a couple of weeks on a 1/4 scale machine gun In my eyes it's priceless.
A toy the wee insurance woman said
So, whats the solution
|Thread: Please help newbie|
Oh, sorry I thought you were serious.
Hi Tom, re your bubble wrap query, I wouldn't advise it.
Perhaps, if each component (wings fuselage and tail assembly)was individually wrapped there might be a chance. There are certain advantages to be had from roughened flying surfaces (think about a golf ball) You might find more information in a good book about model aerodynamics.
There are quite a few problems that you'd have to overcome, I'm sure someone will come along and point them out. Decals wouldn't stick very well to the wrapping, and you'd have to work out some way to exit the control systems for elevators etc; Also access to the batteries, radio etc. would be difficult
Probably the best way forward would be to ask at whatever club that you decide to join;
Hi Tom, If you want to build your own, then I suggest a big powered glider (about 2 meters wingspan) with a small electric motor. I'd use three control channels, One for motor speed, one for rudder, and the third for elevator. This is just about the simplest that you can get. It will fly very slowly, and give you a bit of thinking time.
Just about any radio will be OK for this setup, but see all the earlier comments re make.
I reckon it's best to build it yourself, because its great fun, and you will have an understanding how it all goes together, and when you do break something (and you will) You'll be able to fix it
Hi Tom, There is another thing that you should consider. Do you want to buy an aircraft, all ready built, and go and fly it right away, or are you interested in building one, say from a kit?
Also, while I wholeheartedly agree that it is good to join a club. If this is not possible, you can learn alone, but be prepared for many mishaps.
|Thread: Flying towards youself|
Hi Guys, I find that if I imagine myself in the cockpit, then the problem is solved sort off on a good day
|Thread: What skin|
Don't try it on your wot4
|Thread: lathe problems|
Hi Denis and thanks for that.
Yes, I do use blackburn models quitre a bit..They are very good.
I'm always a bit underwhelmed by williams plastic machine guns, so I decided to try to make my own.
Ive had all the metal bits etched from brass sheet, and am now working on the various sub assemblies.
But, I do have to make the muzzel, and I reckon the only way to get a good job is to turn it.on a proper lathe
Edited By Ernie on 29/12/2017 13:47:52
good morning lathites, and thanks for all that info. All I want to do is make a wee bit for a quarter scale parbellum machine gun.. What a can of worms has opened;;A whole new set( of problems.
It does seem to me that an awful lot of lathites spend their times modifying their lathes, so that the can modify them even more..
Thats life, I suppose
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