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Member postings for Peter Christy

Here is a list of all the postings Peter Christy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Is traditional building a disappearing art?
20/04/2018 16:06:59

One for Chris! Here's the promised pix of the Jackdaw:

To do: Paint trim on wings and tail, cover and attach control surfaces, build transmitter!

Actually, that last item is optional! wink I'll probably test fly it on this:

whilst I convert one of these to 2.4 GHz...:



20/04/2018 11:00:21

I sensing that many of us who do traditional builds - even occasionally - feel the same way. Yes, I have a couple of ARTFs and they are quite fun to fly. But I never get the same buzz from flying them that I get from something I've built myself.

I guess its just that sense of achievement - of having done something that not many others can do. I'm sure any psychologists out there will read something dark and dismal into this.....! wink



19/04/2018 15:33:38

Chris, my current project will be close to your heart then! I'm just completing a Frog Jackdaw! Power will be an ASP30 4-stroke, and the radio will ultimately be 8-channel reeds (Giga-ized).

I've always maintained that it was pointless putting ailerons on a Super 60 (which was designed as much for free-flight as for radio!) when the Jackdaw was a much better option - having been designed for optional ailerons from the outset!

Decided it was time to put my money where my mouth is! Initially, it will have to fly on proportional, as I haven't finished the reed transmitter yet. I'm hoping to have the whole shebang ready for Ponty.

Its in paint at the moment, so not easy to photo. Will try and get some pix up when the fuselage is dry....



Thread: New MOT Test From May 20th.......
11/04/2018 19:04:27

Don, I must admit I always buy super for the jerry cans - and for my only gasser (a helicopter). But that's because my "family" car is meant to run on super, so the jerry can can fuel any of the family cars as required.

My old antique was meant to run on 4-star, which has a higher octane rating than almost any current fuel. I get round that by using a lead substitute additive that contains an octane booster as well. The car runs fine on it. But even my "new" car is 23 years old now, so it well pre-dates ethanol fuel. The current wisdom that 5% does no harm, but steer clear of 10%!

I've just found a website that says that fuel suppliers only have to notify ethanol content if its 10% for the above reason. It also indicates that the "cleanliness" comes from the fact that the ethanol is "sustainable" - ie: grown from crops - not because it reduces emissions per se.

And in case you are wondering why I'm running a 23 year old car, its because I have yet to find anything suitable to replace it.....!



11/04/2018 14:42:45

Hm! Interesting! I thought they had to indicate if it contained ethanol, for the reasons stated above. Certainly, the last time I was in France, fuel containing ethanol was clearly marked E5 or E10 as appropriate. I've never seen that in the UK....



11/04/2018 12:47:27

I know that the French (and probably other continental countries) have been adding up to 10% ethanol to basic unleaded for some time. If you run a pre-2001 car over there, they advise using "super", as it has no ethanol content. Apparently ethanol can attack the rubber in the fuel system on pre-2001 cars. I would assume the same to be true of methanol.

Whether this was done to reduce emissions or to reduce the import bill for fuel, I have no idea. Probably a bit of both. And certainly, back in the days when I used to race karts, there were two kinds of Castol castor oil available - R for petrol and M for methanol, and woe betide you if you got he wrong one! surprise

Unfortunately, the MOT on my 47 year old car is due on the 8th of May, just missing the deadline for not needing an MOT! Mind you, I will probably continue to get it MOT'd anyway as its the only time a professional mechanic gets anywhere near it! I do my own servicing on it.

Garages ask embarrassing questions like "Where do you plug the computer in?" (Answer: You don't! You have to diagnose it properly!) and "Where's the gear-shift?"! (Answer: On the steering column.....!)



Thread: RM Aerobat
09/04/2018 12:51:03

I built one for my son, many years ago, as a follow on to a primary trainer. It was a delightful little model to fly, and robust with it. Sadly, after a few seasons hard use, it fell to the dreaded black wire corrosion. I've been toying with the idea of building another - perhaps electric - as something to chuck in the boot for a quick, opportunistic fly!

Watching with interest!



Thread: JR Propo declare bankruptcy in Japan
09/04/2018 12:46:58

Of course, it could just be sour grapes from JR Americas. Rumour is that they put a bid in for JR, but were substantially outbid by the people who did get it.........



Thread: Your Transmitter History
09/04/2018 12:44:24

Posted by MattyB on 09/04/2018 10:47:22:

Interesting how few JR TXs there are featured in these lists, either recently or in the more distant past. It's not difficult to see why they struggled based on this thread.

JR were very popular in the helicopter community - indeed, until their recent problems, they were used exclusively by the top F3C pilots. I think two out of three of the current team contenders are still using JR.

I think this was because a few years back, Futabas were absolute pigs to program for helis! Eventually they saw the error of their ways and followed the JR style of presentation for their programming.

Helis - and indeed all models - are much more easily set up when the interface describes what you are actually tweaking (eg: Aileron, Elevator, etc) rather than just seemingly random channel numbers....!



Thread: Parallel battery Charging
08/04/2018 15:50:27

You don't say what type of batteries these are! Whilst it is acceptable to wire LiPos in parallel, its not a good idea with NiMhs or NiCads.

LiPos are "self balancing" when wired in parallel by nature, although a catastrophic failure in one is likely to damage the other too! (I'm thinking fire!)

NiXXs cells on the other hand are NOT self balancing, and its quite possible for one pack to "grab" all the charge if you attempt to charge them in parallel. If a cell fails open circuit, then the second pack should take over. However, if a cell fails short circuit, it will drag the good pack down with it. Even if one pack is slightly lower voltage, the "good" pack will try and charge it, wasting its charge in a futile effort!

A diode in circuit, as described by Engine Doctor, will prevent this from happening, but introduces its own problems. If it is a silicon diode, you will lose around 0.6 of a volt across the diode. Schottky types have a lower voltage drop, but are not so readily available. In either case, you are effectively increasing the internal resistance of the power supply, and thus aggravating any volts drop due to load.

My advice is always to use a single pack of known good quality and adequate capacity, switched through a high quality harness. There's a lot to be said for simplicity!



Thread: Your Transmitter History
07/04/2018 15:54:28
Posted by Percy Verance on 07/04/2018 15:18:45:


A chap I used to fly with - sadly no longer with us - used a set of OS radio. Very reliable too from what I saw.....

Yep, must admit I'd also eyed up a Kraft set. Geoff Franklin was the UK agent back then....... Bright yellow transmitters, a bit like Skyleader.

Edited By Percy Verance on 07/04/2018 15:21:24

I think you mean that the Skyleader was a bit like Kraft! wink

Actually, the original Skyleader set was a 3+1 system and looked like a rip-off of the F&M 3+1 - even down to the colour of the case (dark blue) and the Bonner stick! I seem to recall that Southern Radio Controls (Soraco) were the agents for F&M at the time. The original Skyleaders were called Soraco Skyleaders.

But yes, Geoff Franklin was an excellent chap. I only met him once, at the Nats, when I was concerned about a possible problem with my Bonner Digimite. He agreed to take it away and have a look at it, found a minor mis-alignment in the receiver and fixed it for me. That was around the time I decided I really needed to be able to do stuff like that for myself, and embarked on learning electronics! But that's another story.....



07/04/2018 15:16:11

Posted by Devcon1 on 07/04/2018 14:52:52:

Some names listed that are new to me and really tell a tale of the early days, I'm sure they may still pop up but I wonder if anybody had an OS or even a Kraft system.


Kraft were one of the "Big Four" in the late 60's - along with Orbit, F&M and Bonner, but American made sets started to fall out of favour after the Americans moved from 27MHz to 72 MHz. At 72MHz, the telescopic aerials were much more efficient, so you could get away with less powerful (and cheaper!) output transistors in the transmitters. Of course, that meant that when these sets were converted back to 27MHz for the UK market, the power output dropped right off! I remember checking the output of a Kraft transmitter and wondering how the owner ever managed to take off without running out of range!

And although those radios were the big names, they were still "cottage industry" compared to the likes of Futaba. Once the Japanese entered the market, the US manufacturers were doomed. What goes around comes around, as the Japanese now seem to be suffering the same fate at the hands of the Chinese.....!



Thread: And now for something completely different
07/04/2018 13:28:51

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 07/04/2018 13:01:46:

Please stop raining!!!


I'll drink to that!


Best of luck with the maiden!



Thread: Your Transmitter History
07/04/2018 13:26:35


The later (black) Sprengbrooks were re-badged Brand Microprops - one of Muliplex's main competitors in Germany, back then. That probably explains the lack of interest by Harry Brooks!

Interestingly, the guy I got my Sprengbrook from (the original red type, designed by Doug Spreng) worked as the service agent for a model shop in Plymouth - which also sold Multiplex!

I remember looking at them at the time, but after my disastrous experience with the Simprop set, I'd rather gone off German radios by then! (My Grundig had been extra-ordinarily reliable, which is why I'd gone for the Simprop!)



07/04/2018 11:42:46
Posted by Percy Verance on 07/04/2018 11:31:38:


I almost went for a World Engines Talisman system back in the day. I was considering a Sprengbrook set too, although those were a bit pricey. The days of Harry Brooks eh?...............

Another one that impressed me with it's reliability was the Swan System 73. A new member turned up at my (then) club with one, and it never missed a beat in years. Almost all transmitters back then had folded metal cases. Most were aluminium but some (FLC Sovereign) were steel. Built to last.......

Just as a matter of interest Percy, what did you get instead of the Talisman?

The Sprengbrook was generally very reliable, other than not liking sub-zero temperatures (it used an SCS decoder, and SCS's were notoriously temperature sensitive!).

Back in those pre-VAT days, kits were exempt from purchase tax (the pre-EU equivalent of VAT), as they were deemed to be "educational". If you bought the Sprengbrook as a kit from our local dealer, he would build and test it for you at no extra cost! You got a very good outfit for a very reasonable price!

That dealer (now long retired) is still around, and a good friend. In fact, I'll probably be seeing him in a few days time as he has some vintage heli bits I'm after.....! wink



07/04/2018 10:54:18

MacGregor single-channel (the old, big hammerite grey one - not the later blue one!)

Grundig Variophon-4 (later upgraded to 8 - still have it, still works!)

Bonner Diginite-8 (Still have it, still works!)

Simprop Digi-5 (absolute disaster!)

Sprengbrook 6 (original red box version. Still have it, still works!)

World Engines Talisman x 2 (I designed them! Still have both 27MHz AM and 35 MHz FM, both working)

World Engines Talisman 459 MHz (again, own design, still in use)

JR PCM-9 (still in use)

JR DSX-9 (still in use)

Ace MicroPro 8000 on 459 MHz (still in use)

Ace MicroPro 8000 single-stick with FrSky hack module (still very much in use!)

FrSky Taranis X9D (still in use)

Royal Classic (c.1969, but upgraded using Phil Green's Arduino encoder and FrSky hack module - still in use!)

The only ones I haven't kept are the Simprop, which was disastrously unreliable, and the original MacGregor, which I rebuilt as a home-made Galloping Ghost transmitter and donated to Shaun for the single-channel museum. The original case, which I kept for years, disappeared during a house move, alas, but I now have another, currently being renovated, and destined to become a 2.4 GHz single channel system!




Thread: JR Propo declare bankruptcy in Japan
07/04/2018 08:59:09

There is a big difference between JR and Futaba. JR were essentially in the business of RC systems. Futaba are a huge manufacturer of electronic components, with the RC business just being a side-line.

As long as the "powers-that-be" at Futaba are prepared to subsidise the RC division, they are probably safe. What will happen if the parent company starts losing money is anybody's guess, but having a giant company behind you must provide a degree of stability.

FrSky must be making a big dent in their takings though - and those of other manufacturers, too, I guess!



Thread: Radio 35meg
06/04/2018 16:09:52

Onetenor: You need to provide a bit more info for advice. You say you have a couple of Dx2 receviers - did you mean DSM-2 - Spektrum? Also is your 35 MHz Tx modular?

If the answer to both these is "yes", then the cheapest way forward for you is an Orange DSM-X module:


That link is for the JR version, but they also do a Futaba one as well. Just one word of warning - the DSM-X compatibility is not 100%! If you buy any Bind'N'Fly DSM-X models, the throttle function won't work unless you force it into DSM-2 mode.

If the answer to either question is "no", then we need more info to advise!



06/04/2018 13:53:59

The telemetry in the modules is fairly limited unless you buy a plug-in "dashboard" (and find somewhere to mount it!). But it will beep at you if either the received signal strength or battery volts drop below a certain level.

As supplied, the battery volts alarm seems to be set for four-cell Nixx packs, but the signal level is particularly useful when doing a ground range check before flying.

So yes, the basic alarms will work and are independent of the system they are plugged in to.



06/04/2018 11:20:12

This is the Futaba compatible module:


And any of the D-series receivers:


You could also use V series receivers (without telemetry), but you would either have to remember to switch between the different types, or some V receivers will bind to a D Tx by using a jumper when binding. Simpler to stick with D series!

BTW, don't be put off by the quoted 60mW quoted power output for the module. ALL legal 2.4 GHz Txs are 60mW output! The aerials have 2dB of gain, which brings the ERP (Effective Radiated Power) up to 100mW.



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