Here is a list of all the postings Broken Prop has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: **NEW POLL** - Have you passed the model flying/building bug onto anyone else?|
My cat likes to help me by laying on the plans, but I am not sure that counts.....
|Thread: OS FS81-a Alpha destruction|
Sorry to read about the demise of your OS81. As a matter of interest, were you running the engine inverted in the airframe?
|Thread: Tony Nijhuis 72” Mosquito – Build Log|
Lovely work Geoff. I can't wait to see the finished item!
|Thread: Wing Tubing|
I bought a suitable tube for use as a wing joiner recently from metals4u.co.uk. It arrived the following day.
|Thread: Suitable plane for an Enya 19|
Thanks to PatMc for the pictures of the piston deflector on the Enya 19. What a wondrous device, the likes of which I have never seen in an IC engine until now! Incidentally with the help of the test articles I have positively identified the engine as a model 19V-BB TV. and I can clearly see the deflector through the exhaust port as suggested.
I am looking forward to bench running this little gem and I will be using 5% nitro with 20% castor whilst keeping well away from the castor/synthetic discussion.
Thanks for the glow plug advice as well. I was going to use an OS F plug but I will obtain an Enya plug for it, 'just in case'.
As to the choice of air frame, I am overwhelmed by the infinite choice available and am now buying Hob Nobs in bulk. I had no idea what a bottomless pit was going to open up before me when I asked the original question.
Many thanks to all for the comprehensive advice, from which I have learned an awful lot! This really is an amazing forum.
Edited By Broken Prop on 22/11/2016 18:48:16
Thanks Pat. I had looked at the tests in the link but was not sure what to look for. I'll go back and look again for the deflector.
Wow, this is getting even better!
Thanks for the additional info on the planes which will be most useful and I am now buying shares in McVitie's UK, the manufacturer of Hob Nobs.....
I am tempted by the Electra as I do love the Tomboy. An iconic design that flies so well. I'll have a look at all the others though including those on AeroFred.
I was interested by Pat's comment about the possiblility of the engine not being loop scavanged. I know nothing about old Enyas, so how can I recognise it for what it is? My engine is a 19 V if that helps
Thanks for all your help guys
Edited By Broken Prop on 21/11/2016 20:05:27
Thanks for the pointers guys!
There is a lot to think about in your collective suggestions for which I am grateful. The Outerzone looks really useful but I am worried about the number of packs of Hob Nobs that I will consume looking at all those wonderful planes. I might not have enough money left to buy the wood!
Thanks Gonzo for the engine information. That will be very useful when I get around to running it in.
I have recently aquired a new (old stock) Enya 19 and am looking for a suitable vintage plan or kit for it. I had thought about a Tomboy but it would be vastly overpowered with this engine and so I need something a little bigger in size.
I suspect that a Junior 60 would do, as I have one of those with a 30 in it and it is way too overpowered.
|Thread: Building from plans!|
SLEC timber is of excellent quality and so is that provided by the Balsa Cabin.
To save on costs buy a balsa stripper and cut your own strip from sheet material. It saves a small fortune!
There are a number of good balsa strippers on the market, from Kavan, SLEC and the like, but I normally use one made by Avicraft which seems to suit me better.
Good luck with the build!
|Thread: Throttle curves|
Thanks guys, there are some interesting thoughts there.
I had thought that throttle curve meant something that looked like a servo output curve where expo was mixed in, in order to suit the power delivery of the engine. However I see now that it means the settings that you want to input to suit your flying style.
Thanks for the assistance.
I have read where throttle curves can benefit the throttle reponse at various throttle openings. I understand that it is possible to set up a suitable curve on one's TX . Mine has a 9 point set up but at present I only use the top and bottom settings giving a straight 'curve'.
My question is what shape should the curve be? Is there a common curve for 2 strokes, another for 4 strokes or has each engine got to be set up independently?
If the latter is the case, how does one go about it?
Edited By Broken Prop on 10/11/2016 09:13:13
Edited By Broken Prop on 10/11/2016 09:13:42
|Thread: Laser Cutting, Plan Printing, Kits, Graphics & More|
Good luck with the new venture Robbie.
I'm with Andy. The slots for mylar hinges can normally be found without too much of a problem.
|Thread: Help. Bitten by bug!|
Chris, there is no hope for you now. You have been bitten.
Welcome to the club!
|Thread: 4-stroke recommendation|
Laser! Don't settle for lesser makes.......
|Thread: Best place for fuel tank|
Thanks for the information Jon and I am not the least offended. I am indeed grateful for your knowledge on this matter given your experience and value the time that you have expended on behalf of the community.
However I remain unbowed as I am quoting from my own experiences. I was unaware of any myths surrounding the use of on board glows as I think I am the only eccentric in my club running inverted 4 strokes. I worked it out and perpetrated the myths all on my own!
(Incidentally I meant on board glow and not remote glow in my post. Thanks for picking that up).
I can only give examples of what I have found.
First is a Junior 60 built by me to take an inverted Saito 30 and with the tank at the correct level in relation to the carb. Vastly overpowered the plane would fly with the engine on tick over, or rather it would except the engine kept cutting out. No amount of leaning out either needle valve got rid of the problem, but an on board glow did.
Second is an ARTF fitted with an OS81 pumped, also running inverted. In this case the tank is too high but I thought the pump would compensate and provide a regulated fuel flow. Not so and the engine exhibited the same symptoms during idle, often cutting out whilst the plane was being carried out to the strip. it was a nightmare!
In this case the engine was run in and was then fettled by those who know far more than me. I have checked both needles since and I cannot lean the engine out any further.
Again fitting an on board glow transformed the engine.
However my Laser 150 (which I regard as a far superior engine to any of the above) runs happily inverted in an ARTF with the tank set too high. I have not touched the needle screw yet as the engine has only about 1 hour under its belt. Quality always shows!
i am not disagreeing with your comments which I think are absolutely correct and represent good sound advice. I can only say that the above worked for me after many frustrating hours spent kneeling and praying to my engines.
PS This is not going to stop you selling me more of your lovely engines is it? I promise not to use on board glows on them.
Edited By Broken Prop on 30/10/2016 17:23:55
Rocker, the problem may be associated with the fact that you are using a 4 stroke inverted. On tick over the engine is revving slowly and the time interval between compression strokes is greater than when at speed. Consequently the plug has time to cool and when the next slug of cold fuel hits it, the fire goes out.
The answer is to fit a remote glow installation. This applies a current to the plug at low revs (usually programmable) and keeps the plug alight. As you open the throttle, the unit switches off. Mike Ridley at Model Radio Workshop makes a nice unit in a number of variations to suit your taste and pocket.
I have OS and Saito engines mounted inverted and all suffered from the problems you describe. All cured by remote glow units. My Laser does not need one but it is a 150, so perhaps the bigger engine stays hotter than your 80.
A word of caution if you fit one of these units. The plug is 'live' when you switch the model on and the throttle is at rest. So, don't even think of turning the engine over by hand! Open the throttle first to turn off the unit. They come withan LED fitted to tell you when the plug is energised.
Edited By Broken Prop on 29/10/2016 09:10:00
Edited By Broken Prop on 29/10/2016 09:10:22
I have a Laser inverted in a Stearman and like you I could not get the tank as low as it should be. However, the engine runs fine.
You will find that once the engine is primed, fuel will drip from the carb as the tank is syphoning although once the engine is running, that ceases. A good reason to go flying asap!
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