Here is a list of all the postings Frank Skilbeck has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: OS120E Needle Valve woes|
Mmm two needles, the one that is in is blunted and short, the LA needle we tried was a bit longer, so that may be it, but there's no mention of this in the instructions and only one needle shown in the parts list. Will have a look at the low end too.
Denis, it's not leaking in air, we can't shut down the fuel feed to the engine with the needle valve, it bottoms out before the engine has reached max rpm, even with the needle valve fully in it runs rich at wide open throttle
O ring and everything look in good conditions.
I am wondering if the carb casting could be damaged or porous and allowing fuel to bypass the needle valve.
We have maize fields, over 8ft high, on two sides of out field, so the on board glow is there to keep the engine running at tickover on landing approach with guaranteed pickup if the plane is going short, we've lost members in the maize field.........................
BTW it's a Just Engines onboard glow system and I must say it works really well and you don't even need to attach an external glow battery for starting.
The onboard glow shuts off once the throttle is 1/3rd open, the engine doesn't stop at wide open throttle it just runs rich and you can't screw the needle valve in any more, up to that point the needle valve does work as screwing it out makes it run richer. A different needle valve did allow us to get it a bit leaner and another 1,000 rpm but it was still running rich.
It's like there's either too much tank pressure or fuel is leaking into the engine!
Just acquired one of these in a 2nd hand model, apparently only had 8 tanks through it (it does look very clean), it starts up just fine and ticks over great on the on-board glow. Pick up is fine too, but we can't lean it out, it's still running rich with the main needle valve full in!
Looking at the parts list and photos of spares the needle valve looks correct, but putting in a needle valve out of a LA46 (which is slightly longer) let us get a few more revs but even then it was still running rich with the needle valve screwed fully in.
The silencer has a very thin wall 3" extension on the outlet, my first thoughts are this is increasing the exhaust back pressure and hence fuel tank pressure, but before we go too far can anybody suggest anything else we should check.
|Thread: Acro Wot ARTF (balsa) chat|
If you can't tighten up the existing closed loop wires, I'd replace them like for like, using the old wires to pull the new ones through if you can.
As regards aileron differential, remember if you put some in it will be the wrong way round when inverted........
|Thread: Wireless Copilot - mAh telemetry|
+1 for the Unisens E, I have 2, but they only work in conjunction with a radios telemetry system and are not a standalone system.
You could use one with a Multiplex receiver and Souffluer voice unit but it starts to get very expensive compared to the Safe to Fly units which were quite reasonably priced.
But Patrick have you checked out the DIY unit in RCME this month, not voice but a high power LED which triggers when you've hit the desired mah.
Not been around for a few years now, the last post on their facebook page was June 2014.
The only other alternatives I know of would be quite expensive and you'd probably be better off moving to a system with inbuilt telemetry.
|Thread: RX switch mounting|
I must have been unlucky, only had one switch with that exact same face-plate which i bought at a show, first plane I put it in the telemetry low Rx voltage was going off every time I moved the sticks, I thought it was a duff battery , but it turned out that the switch was very high resistance, so any current drawn (i.e. moving a servo) caused a big voltage drop.
+1 for the SLEC internal switch mounts too.
|Thread: AOL users, is this a scam?|
Yep, here's a article in the Independent
|Thread: Flight Time Cut in Half!|
One other thing to check is that you haven't accidentally set your charger to LiFe rather than LiPo, LiFe charge to a lower voltage.
|Thread: SFM Fokker DVII Kit|
Simon it was the June 2017 issue, PM me if you have any problems finding it.
I did the review of the kit for RCMW a few months ago, yes it's a nice model, a few scale discrepancies, but it looks good and flies pretty well too.
The kit stickers are pretty poor though and don't adhere that well to a tex covering.
|Thread: Flair Fokker DVII downthrust|
Laser 70 should be fine, mine flies on an ancient Laser 61, and yes there is a significant amount of downthrust.
|Thread: futaba end point set up|
The other way to do it, is to set the linkage up with the throttle stick in the middle, i.e. servo at the center position and the carb 50% open, then adjust the end points so the servo doesn't bind at the top and bottom end. Once you've run the engine you may need to adjust the bottom end point if you can't get a good tickover on the trim or the throttle cut doesn't work.
|Thread: Rules of thumb for cooling|
On electric models it's really somewhere for the heated up air to go, if it can't get out of the model it just gets warmer and warmer, so it's not really like trying to cool an IC motor.
I did have one model where the inlet was bigger than the outlet and it worked just fine.
I also on another model put a temperature sensor on the ESC and the temperature went up more at part throttle than full throttle, but I can't be sure whether that was because the model was flying faster or the ESC generating less heat.
|Thread: Futaba R3106gf MOMO ?|
If it's not for a larger model there should be no issues with the single aerial Rx in my experience, I have the MPX single aerial receivers in several models upto 2.2m wingspan gliders and there have been no issues.
|Thread: Easy star11|
Up to a level, but if it's quite windy then it will struggle to get back from downwind.
|Thread: Flair cub electric conversion|
Keith, here's a couple of photos of a tow rag we built converted to electric, it's 1800 watts on an 8s so a bit more than your cub needs, for the hatch we just built the fuselage in one piece and then cut it out with a razor saw and then reinforced in, it;s held on with two magnets. Friend has got a cub that we converted too, but his had a functioning side door so we used that for the battery access.
|Thread: Futaba R3106gf MOMO ?|
Multiplex also make single aerial receivers with telemetry.
The purpose of dual aerials is so you can orient them at 90 deg to each other, then if one is blanked or the alignment is such that the signal is not received very well the other takes over, by having them at 90 deg to each other one will always be in a pretty good position.
BTW on the Multiplex single aerial receivers they recommend you place the aerial vertically.
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