Here is a list of all the postings John Muir has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Well at least the cardboard boxes will biodegrade or recycle. Most padded envelopes won't as they're full of plastic bubble wrap.
|Thread: Pickup truck front wheel|
It's an old advert for the Nissan Frontier. All done with CGI. Even the plane has been altered so it's 'not quite' a Boeing 727 so nobody gets sued. Quite a lot about it on the internet.
|Thread: Reading Log files|
In Companion there's a little icon along the top that looks like a graph. With your transmitter connected in bootloader mode just click on that and find the file you want. They're listed under the model name and date. Then just pick the readings you want to see from the list on the left. You'll find that, as well as the current value, you'll also have RSSI, receiver voltage and all the control positions to choose from, plus any other sensors you have connected. They come up as a graph.
|Thread: Taranis EU X9D and V8 Recivers|
Sorry about the duff info re V8 compatibility. Never needed it myself and my memory was playing tricks on me. As Andy says you need the channel order set before you set up a model, but changing it yourself in the inputs screen works fine.
Re expo, all you need to do now is double click on the model in the list to open an edit window. Go to the inputs tab, double click the appropriate control to open up an edit box and go down to 'curve', click the drop-down and change it to expo. Put the value you want in the box just to the right and you're all set. On Futaba you would use negative expo but on Taranis it's positive, like JR/Spektrum.
Edited By John Muir on 03/12/2017 12:56:03
Just to clarify, you can not change the RF firmware by flashing OpenTx. The RF firmware is a completely separate thing and as your radio is new, and to EU spec, you are fine on that front. You could, technically, change the RF to 'International' and you would then be able to use older V8 receivers too, but, it means you wouldn't be able to buy new D16 receivers without buying 'international' ones from abroad or re-flashing them yourself every time. It's also slightly illegal, probably. Just not worth the complication if you ask me.
Sorry to be pedantic, but this techie stuff gets confusing,
First of all, don't touch the FrSky rf firmware. It is up to date, EU LBT and has no effect on the problems you are having. EU LBT only has an effect on D16 X series receivers (possibly LR12 as well, don't know) anyway.
You set up the default channel order in companion on the settings/settings page again, down at the bottom of the radio profile page. When you use the wizard in companion to set up a new model from now on, that's the order the channels will come up in. If you wish to check or change that go to the 'inputs' tab in the model setup editing screen. It is also here that you set up dual rates and expo (this tab should really be labelled as 'dual rates and expo' as 'inputs' is confusing, and, in the main, that's all it's used for anyway.) It is much easier to set up your model in companion and then copy it to the transmitter than working on the transmitter itself in my opinion.
Your older V8 receivers simply will not work with the internal module. You would have to install an older style module in the back to use those. Newer receivers have to be bound in D8 mode, which often involves using a jumper as per the instructions. My Delta 8 receiver works fine with my Taranis QX7 but I had to take it to a room well away from my computer and router to bind as it has a very sensitive front end and wouldn't cooperate anywhere near an interference source.
I'm afraid that you are not going to be able to avoid doing quite a bit of reading to get to grips with your Taranis. RC Groups forum has long threads which can throw up some helpful info but the manual linked in Companion's help menu is pretty good, although not always right up to date and 'OpenTx University' is worth a look as well. OpenTx is much more powerful than most of us need, but it is amazingly good and easy to use once you've got the idea. However, it was written as a hobby by a bunch of computer geeks so it doesn't always seem obvious or even logical to 'ordinary' folk at first.
All you need to do is download OpenTx Companion to your PC, start it and go to the 'settings' menu and then the 'settings' option there. Make sure none of the build option boxes are ticked (especially not the EU one) and make sure the correct radio is selected. You can also set your default channel order on this screen. Then download the latest version of OpenTx and flash it to the radio following the instructions from the on-line manual or one of the videos by Scott Page or Painless 360. This will give you D8 mode on your transmitter which will allow the use of D8 and newer V8 II receivers. As has already been said, if you have older V8 receivers you will need to set your external rf to PPM and use an old JR style module in the bay.
|Thread: Omega glider|
And the tail's completely different.
It was published in RCM&E but before 1978, it's in the plan's handbook for that year. Plan number RC/1197, if that's of any help. The picture in the book is very small and unclear, so not any help.
|Thread: Did you start with ARTF and move to building from kits or vice versa?|
I'm another who started in the pre-ARTF era and now do a bit of everything, so can't answer.
|Thread: Extreme Flight 83" MXS Electric Version|
These planes are set up primarily for 3D and if you want 80 degrees of control surface movement from a servo that can only rotate 45 degrees then the servo arm has to be longer than the surface horn. That's why the servos have to have so much torque to allow for the reduction at the surface and the huge forces involved. All the arms and horns have to be heavy duty too to avoid flexing. If you never fly 3D and don't need those movements, then it would be more efficient to keep the servo arms the same length or less and you could also use lower torque servos and gain a little accuracy compared to running reduced travel in the transmitter setup.
|Thread: Can't get INTO flat spin|
A lot of sport models are set up with a 'safe', i.e. forward CG. If you need a lot of down elevator to keep the plane level when it's inverted, it is difficult to roll without loads of elevator input or it won't spin properly, then try moving the CG back by adding weight to the tail.
There's a really good thread on this forum somewhere about trimming for aerobatics and is well worth finding. A well set up model makes it all so much easier.
You might also need to set up high rates on your transmitter to give you as much elevator and rudder movement as you can get for spins and flicks as well. Some models just don't like to spin and need a bit of encouragement.
|Thread: WOT 4 CG and adding nose weight|
I doubt that it's tail heavy to be honest. My old Wot 4 Classic (essentially the same plane, aerodynamically speaking at least) flies really well with the CG at 106mm back. Also a rearward CG wouldn't affect the aileron response. I'd be tempted to simply cut the control movements down and add plenty expo, or check for something loose or out of kilter although I'm betting you've already done that.
|Thread: Caption competition!|
Well I flicked the 'return to home' switch and it got into the car.
|Thread: Newbie/returner from Devon|
Compromise. Build a kit. Sussex Model Centre has the Seagull Boomerang in kit form. It would be perfect for your .46 and flies really well. It's an ideal trainer if you're going to get lessons. I had an ARTF version when I returned to the hobby some years back and liked it a lot.
If you don't fancy that there's also the Great Planes PT-40 or the Goldberg Eagle on their site. The PT-40 can be built without ailerons if you want to keep it simple and gentle for starters, but, personally, I'd go with four channels from the off.
Welcome to the forum.
|Thread: Beyond The Foamie|
I set mine up as per the instructions for starters which gave three rates, one for smooth aerobatics, one for 3D and a third with maximum elevator movement for tumbles and elevators. I've hardly used the third mode as the 3D mode with loads of expo works well most of the time. I seem to remember reducing the aileron throws and increasing elevator on low rates, but that's personal preference. The plane is capable of much more than I am currently but is still very easy to fly. Also worth mentioning that CoG placement changes the character of the plane. Keep it forward and you've got a nice smooth IMAC style aerobat, move the battery back and it gets livelier and more responsive. Not twitchy though. This all applies to the 60'' one I have and I don't know how directly comparable the 48'' version would be, but I'd imagine it would be similar. There's masses of information on the EF models over on RC Groups, including very complete build threads and information directly from the designers. They seem to be massively popular with the Americans.
I do get the impression that the Laser is a good all rounder but I doubt if you'd go far wrong with any of their models, or a Sebart for that matter. It's as much down to what's available and what you like the look of as anything else.
I've got a Laser EXP 60'' from EF and I can't fault it. Beautifully put together and finished, looks lovely, and can fly very smoothly and precisely or be a bonkers 3D monster as the mood takes you. It will handle a breeze but is very lightly built like the Sebarts, maybe a little sturdier, so nicer in calmer conditions. Never owned a Sebart but seen plenty and they do look very nice too. As you say, they come from the same Chinese factory, so quality is very similar. A clubmate has a 48'' MXS EXP and it looks terrific, although I haven't seen him fly it a lot yet.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Simon, that plane of Mike's is a Twisted Hobbys Crack Camel I think. Search on You Tube to see what it's capable of - not exactly scale flight performance!
|Thread: Check on power calculation|
If you feel you've got more power than you can manage I'd suggest fitting a smaller prop, maybe a 9x5, which should drop the watts down from something a little under 200W now to around 150W, on 3S. This is based on my own experiments with an electric glider a while back. A 2S battery might need a bigger prop, maybe 12x6 or thereabouts, for a similar output. A watt meter is well worth having.
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