Here is a list of all the postings Rick Tee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: balsa cabin|
I've just had a delivery from them, always been great service.
|Thread: Coming back after 50 years: bit lost|
I agree with David Davis, for my two penny's worth I'd go further and suggest your best bet is to buy a Boomerang artf and an SC46 or ASP46 engine. An IC engine with a 10oz tank will give you 15mins - 20mins of flying. Allowing your instructor to take off, trim, hand over, giving you at least 10mins on the sticks with plenty left for landing. Also as soon as your instructor is available again you only need to re-fuel and go. With electric you'll need 3 batteries to maximise your time flying rather then waiting for batteries to charge. You'll get 7mins - 8mins flying time, once your instructor has taken off and allowing time for him to land it for you, you'll be lucky to get 5 mins on the sticks. Add to that very light models require very little wind, waiting weeks for the right conditions will drastically reduce the rate at which you learn.
I've been a club instructor for 10 years+, people who learn quickly do so by flying 4 - 6 times each visit, visit often and use a good sim (preferably not Phoenix).
My advice is to visit the club before you buy anything.
Edited By Rick Tee on 05/01/2018 14:09:42
Edited By Rick Tee on 05/01/2018 14:13:47
|Thread: Clearview - take care|
If you downloaded Clearview from their home site: **LINK**
Then you can be sure its a false positive. I have been using Clearview a long time with no issues.
I believe the top virus/adware software atm is TotalAv.
Edited By Rick Tee on 01/01/2018 14:24:42
|Thread: tuition in S.Devon?|
Eddystone Model Flying Club rent a field at Staddiscombe, Plymouth: **LINK**
Pm for more info.
Edited By Rick Tee on 31/12/2017 09:23:36
|Thread: Recommendations for good sunglasses|
Bruce, Thank you will take a look.
Bruce Collinson; I'm interested in the glasses you mention, a source would be good. I use polarized sun glasses but it does mean looking under them to see the TX screen.
Edited By Rick Tee on 23/11/2017 07:28:40
|Thread: A puzzle for engine guru's|
Throttle control arm loose.
|Thread: Hi from an old newbie|
It's been a long time since I built a kit but what you describe is exactly as I remember them, wrong wood, don't fit, missing parts, spars of entirely different woods (using them guaranteed a warped wing) etc. Not tried a modern, laser cut kit yet, but the old die cut kits were not great, the main reason I moved on to building from plans and bought a balsa stripper so my spars came off the same piece of wood.
|Thread: Did you start with ARTF and move to building from kits or vice versa?|
Similar to Jeff, there were no artf's when I started so built from kits, graduated to plans. Now I do have some artf's but still build from plans.
|Thread: Irvine 53 Issues|
This engine is prone to breaking prop drivers, the old version had a tapered crank this one has a D type crank but the prop drivers have a little too much clearance leaving enough slack for a kick back to break the prop driver. I still have 2 spare prop drivers in my flight box from when I owned one. After breaking 2 I shimmed mine with a bit of beer can which seemed to solve the problem. I suggest you check the D in the prop driver for a crack in the corner.
|Thread: Bought a trainer where to fly ?|
Check out the BMFA site: **LINK**
for local clubs, you could also ask at your nearest model shop.
|Thread: A Cardboard RC plane.|
This is probably worth a look if you haven't seen it before: **LINK**
I did some testing with 180grm ( I think) card, can't see any reason it wouldn't work fine up to 1.6mtrs any bigger would probably need a wood or carbon spar. Be interesting to see how you get on. I think cereal boxes may be a little heavy, I did build a trainer type mode out of the box another model came in and I've kept the box a Hanger9 Bf109 came in as the quality was just too good to throw it away, might make it into a Bf109 just cause.
Edited By Rick Tee on 11/12/2016 13:30:34
Cardboard fuselage foam core wing, next version will use thin card to cover the foam wing instead of wood veneer.
Edited By Rick Tee on 11/12/2016 07:57:34
Edited By Rick Tee on 11/12/2016 07:58:03
|Thread: How much Expo and Why?|
I set it up according to the models response, type and intended flying style. Just like trimming, set to suit the model usually aim for a linear feel unless its a 3D model.
|Thread: 4 Strokes - fuel tank position|
I put tank center line inline with the carb. Have Saito 56, 72, 91, 115 all inverted, no problems starting, no issue with flooding.
|Thread: McAfee help required|
AVG and Spybot here.
|Thread: What tips for fuel proofing|
Exterior polyurethane varnish is completely fuel proof, apply 4 coats thinned 50% with white spirit 2hrs between coats and at least 4 days cure time. It does have a brown hue so only use inside the model. If you have had polyurethane pickle then I would suspect something was on the surface before you coated it or you're using water based which is not fuel proof.
|Thread: gap filling glue|
Fill the gaps with bicarb and drip thin superglue into it, be careful to avoid the fumes or mix light wood filler with PVA.
Edited By Rick Tee on 24/07/2016 06:34:56
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