Here is a list of all the postings kc has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Ohmen|
The really important question is ............when is it going to be published in RCME?
|Thread: Tentative return|
One of the kits you could consider building is the Balsa Cabin Sonata
a quick build as either a glider or electric glider.
Also check out DB Sport & Scale for 'Plan Packs' - sets of ribs and plans for David Boddington designs. ( beautiful laser cut ribs which save a lot of work) Also laser cut ribs for some classic designs from iGull. Look to Belair kits for precut semi kits of classic designs too.
Of course there are the 'free' plans with each copy of RCME and back issue available if you missed any fairly recent ones. All the old plans from RCME & Radio Modeller plus RC ModelWorld etc are available from Sarik Hobbies. And lots of free plans to download from Outerzone and print off yourself or take the PDF files to a local copy shop for printing. Balsa is available from Balsa Cabin or SLEC by mail order. Fittings like clevis, hinges etc from them too. Many people buy electric motors and Lithium Polymer batteries from HobbyKing ( use UK or European warehouse to avoid import taxes! )
Check out the ' Features' section here on Modelflying for lots of recent articles.
|Thread: Can still climb tree's|
Several people seem to have suggested that it's OK to try to teach yourself to fly but if they look at Robert's other posts they will see he seems to live in south Essex which is one of the most crowded areas now. Full of people who will no doubt sue you if crash and hit their Ferrari or even their Fiesta or their child. And yet it's an area full of clubs - Two Tree Island, Thurrock, Brentwood, Dagenham, Bretons( at Elm Park), West Essex ( at Bulphan), Chelmsford, Anglia ( at Runwell) etc, etc, But very few large public spaces where the public are allowed to fly models! So in this day and age of litigation and legislation it's not practical to teach yourself unless you live way out in the wilds and have the landowners permission to fly.
I guarantee you that at least 2 and probably all of the clubs I mentioned will find you an instructor to have a first flight at no cost - as long as you come at a suitable time with a sutable model of course. Instruction is normally free for club members anyway ( subject to an instructor being willing) and for that flrst flight you don't even need to be a member ( remember that the BMFA rules covers that situation) So really no reason to try to fly again on your own! Check out the BMFA website and locate a club which is near you and get the secretary's details or just turn up at flying times.
Edited By kc on 15/05/2018 13:29:33
Why didn't you go to your local club and find an experieinced pilot for the first flight! Everyone who tries to test fly their first model themselves ends like this.
The first thing any club should do is check over the model - it's very very rare there are no faults to rectify. Checking all the linkages are sound, CG is correct, sufficient rubber bands ( 6 strong ones needed usually) Battery cannot move and alter CG, control directions correct, sufficient movement and rate settings to allow some change if required, hinges secure ( and pinned?) checking for warps etc. Those are the things we check for newcomers and almost everyone fails on one of those checks but they are easily rectified. BEFORE the first flight. And of course proper club memers are insured just in case of a 3rd party accident ( not your plane though- that's your risk! )
Edited By kc on 14/05/2018 10:59:47
|Thread: Anyone can build a model plane.|
it is worth noting that a set of laser cut ribs and parts are available for 15 pounds inc postage ( in UK ) from iGull for anyone who wants to speed up the build.
Edited By kc on 10/05/2018 22:08:18
|Thread: Boddingtons Scale book for a penny!|
Also a couple of copies of Peter Holland's book Model Aeroplane Building Sketch by Sketch at reasonable prices - I think that these older version may have clearer sketches than the later ones. A worthwhile book for real builders.
Edited By kc on 09/05/2018 11:05:43
A couple of copies of David Boddington's scale book are for sale at about 4 pounds when you include postage here on Amazon today. A great book that is out ouf print so grab a copy if you want one.
|Thread: Computer radio book- Don Edberg|
see the PM I sent about several copies for sale.
|Thread: 4 months and NEARLY finished|
Enlarging the hole using a tapered prop reamer is the best way . Turned by hand of course. Prop reamers come in two types - tapered or stepped. See the article by Brian Winch in the latest RCME.
Drilling can be very hazardous if the drill catches suddenly and spins the work around rather than drilling! A drill vice ( machine vice) can be spun around if not bolted down. So take great care when drillingwith power drills. Prop blades are usually very sharp as all experienced modellers know.
|Thread: NEW POLL! The 2018 Transmitter Survey!|
Do any makes other than Spektrum/JR have something like ModelMatch which prevents using the wrong memory/Rx ?
That feature seems to be a big plus for Spektrum in this age of multiple model ownership. Does Taranis have the equivalent?
This is just based on forum members! Taranis has been hyped up a lot on this forum so it is not suprising that it is popular with forum members........but very little mention of Frsky in adverts or elesewhere. I suspect the real number of Frsky users is high in this forum but not elsewhere. On the other hand Graupner is widely advertised and very competively priced so it would be amazing if their sales are only 1/19th of Frsky sales which i suggest makes the survey very misleading! Or else advertising in magazines is doomed if it cannot influence buyers more than free mentions on the forum.
|Thread: Vamoose by Mike Freeman|
That motor has the shaft coming out of the end furthest from the backplate, while the Vamoose as built by the designer used a motor the other way round. It is sometimes possible to push the shaft through but I woulnd't do it in case there are no grooves for the circlip.
It makes a difference how you construct a cowl if you get a different type of motor..........and you did say you like the rolled ply cowl.
I am using a Turnigy 3536/9 910kv motor on 4S3000 lipo in an Avicraft Moronic weighing 4 pounds gives 511 watts on an 11x5.5 APC electric prop. uses 33 amps & a40amp ESC So far 1256 flights of about 6 minutes of full power so I think this is a proven motor setup!
Whether this is a similar motor to your MTO I don't know but the 11 x5.5 would be a starting point to try with the wattmeter. But you may not need 500 watts so maybe a much smaller prop would be better. Needs a folding prop for a Vamoose though unless you fit an u/c.
If the Vamoose weighs 2 pounds or so then consider the HobbyKing motor recommended here on the forum - less than 13 pounds with ESC ! Seems a bargain.......
Edited By kc on 15/04/2018 18:06:21
|Thread: RM Aerobat|
You could consider using liteply for the spar if no suitable balsa is available.
a 3536/9 910kv on a 4S can give 500 watts on a 11x 5.5 APC electric prop drawing 33 amps as it does on my Avicraft Moronic. Equivalent to a .40 2 stroke I would reckon. So maybe a smaller prop ( ? ground clearance? ) to reduce the watts a bit and prolong flight times.
|Thread: How to triple strength of Depron without adding weight.|
19 sheets seems an odd number! Enough for about 2 models I suppose.
It's like buying balsa at about 20 pence for a 4 inch sheet!
What exactly should one order from Screwfix etc for the material used in these models - Vitrex seems the name for several products. And how many 850mm by 600mm sheets do you get in a pack? It seems to say 1sheet for 17.99
|Thread: RM Aerobat|
Well Servo Shop / Steve Webb today list the 30SS for 72 but say it's out of stock. So if unobtainable new look for secondhand - last year at Old Warden several 25 or 30SS were on s/h stands for 10 to 15 pounds with no buyers in sight.
|Thread: Coffee And Biscuits.|
Matty. The teabags we use at home eventually go into our compost bins and make compost for the garden with no trace I can see! But teapots or a cafetierre for coffee would be even greener.
Whatever happened to properly shaped teacups with saucers - seems you cannot buy them now only mugs.
School milk - vile just as Geoff says. It was kept un refrigerated so it was 'off' and horrible! I bet they have fridges now in schools. Worse than school milk was collecting foil milk bottle tops for charity - vile smell!
|Thread: RM Aerobat|
I used an OS 25 Max originally. Not a powerful engine at all. Later I used an Enya30SS plain bearing which was much more powerful. A greatly underestimated engine as was the Enya 40SS plain bearing. Last forever- no bearing to corode either.
I think it is fair to say that the original article in this series ( RM Trainer - Aerobat- Porterfield Collegiate ) mislead me about the engine to use ( for all 3 planes ) A picture showed the engines to use from a Veco 19 up to an OS 25FSR.which persuaded me to buy an engine in the middle of the size and price range. the OS Max25 was nothing like as powerful as the 25 FSR and probably not up to Veco 19 power either. Boddo should have realised that novices were ( still are ) likely to build quite a heavy model and advised them ( me! ) to go for the larger slightly heavier and more powerful engine if in doubt. For the same price then -1984 - I could have bought an OS30 or Enya 35 at just 55 pence more than the 26pounds the OS25Max cost me. Very bad choice on my part!
Modern engines ar rather different and all .25 will be more powerful so a 25 LA or a Super Custom 25 etc would be fine, but if you find a secondhand Enya 25SS or 30SS cheaply buy it! Even a new 30SS at 72 pounds will be a sound buy. Why bother buying a ball race .25 motor which will corrode when you canget the same performance from a plain bearing 30 which will last better? Same size case of course. But buying any new 2 stroke glow today is like buying a diesel car today - it's old technology and will be legislated against or noise outlawed very quickly! Electric is the thing now for this size of model.............
Edited By kc on 13/04/2018 16:51:11
I found that models with snakes on the elevator always seem to be out of trim when next flown - presumably the snakes expand and contract a little.. I would suggest a forked pushrod would be easier if you build it in at an early stage. Would avoid all the fiddly work making and fitting an elevator joiner too.
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