Here is a list of all the postings KiwiKid has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Devil's Duster|
This is my Stormfighter2 delta glider built from an RCM plan (#843). Constructed with a built up wing and a lost foam fuse. I tacked a motor on the back and she's a great flier. I thought it looked a bit Mirage-ish so went with that livery and a sort of a TSR2-ish nose.
|Thread: Dumb question about pusher props|
What sort of model are you building Spikey?
As Donald mentions, it's important to keep the digits out of the prop arc. If you are hand launching, make sure you have a good gripping point on the model and do a firm javelin launch with full follow through so your hand drops away.
If you are using a high power system it's worthwhile to use some protection.
|Thread: Swansea Airshow 2016|
Yip, just a screen grab, cropped in a photo editor.
Really enjoyed the pics.
Wonder what happens to all that fuel - evaporates I guess. Expensive exercise.
The 747 is reported as having had an "operational issue".
|Thread: What's flying over your house|
It was probably a Twin-Engine Long EZ, like so: **LINK**
|Thread: Converted IC models for the slope.|
Awesome leccy, one can never have too many Spits.
This is my 1.4m Durafly version flying in around 12kts. It really comes alive around 20kts.
By the way, I am not sure if that Tomahawk model I referenced earlier was on sale at the time, but it sure is now!
|Thread: Snakes - how to un-bend?|
Snakes - how to un-bend?
LOL - when I saw the title of this thread, I expected it to be from the slope forum.
|Thread: Pusher prop on a glider|
Another FPV option could be the Ogar: **LINK**
From: **LINK** and other outlets.
T-tail gliders can get away with zero thrust lines as the horizontal stab is in the direct line of the prop wash and you can add up elevator (either manually or by way of a mix) when the throttle is activated.
|Thread: Converted IC models for the slope.|
Congrats on the successful flight Tim. It's great to see an IC model ticking along on ridge lift.
One of my favourite models is a Great Planes Lear Jet, PSSed
I just noticed this model the other day on the HK site. Looks like a good contender. It's designed for IC or electric flight, so has scale (or less) intakes to reduce drag and could be beefed up for PSSing: **LINK**
|Thread: Songs to describe BREXIT|
The Corrs seemed to have a thing for breakups:
- I Never Loved You Anyway
-The Right Time
- I Do What I Like
Somebody That I EUsed To Know - Gotye
|Thread: Fob camera help required|
I have had the same experience FunFlyer. It's one of those "get what you pay for" things.
I have had a lot of fun with my Mobius tacked on different models.
Edited By KiwiKid on 25/06/2016 23:10:54
|Thread: Original 1920s Photo|
This pic of the Boeing Model1 was taken on 24th May1920 in Auckland, NZ.
The aeroplane was a single-engine biplane, seaplane aircraft. It was the first commercial Boeing plane and the first two sales were to the NZ Flying School who used them for flight instruction and mail delivery.
|Thread: The A4b - a V-2 with wings on!|
That is just totally awesome Simon. Do you think the model has enough spare horsepower to carry a bit of paint? A scale paint job would be great. Then you could build a V2 launch pad diorama!
|Thread: Pull spring control technique|
Hi David, I see. Well, an all flying tail would need a push rod set up as a spring mechanism needs two independent surfaces, one stationary and one moving.
I would recommend activating the rudder as it helps with thermaling as you can do flatter turns in the thermal by using an aileron/rudder mix or using the rudder manually. In strong lift you can core the thermal just using the rudder alone. The benefit of this is that you can do flatter turns. This makes the model more efficient as it's lift potential deteriorates as it banks.
Here's a few extra notes and a pic off the net during a build stage.
- It's important to have the rudder horn on the other side of the plane from the throwing peg. This is so the servo can pull on the string and keep tension on during the launch;
- When positioning the spring, you need to think carefully about which orientation the spring goes, so that the servo and string are pulling in the right direction;
- From the vid you will see that the spring is made in a square C shape and is then inserted with the control surface deflected as far as it can go; and
- Just make sure that the spring ends are a snug fit inside the tubes in the surfaces so there is no slop.
Edited By KiwiKid on 21/06/2016 04:56:07
No probs David. Here's a pic of the Neos' tail. Note it is not "all flying", just a standard rudder and elevator. The control surfaces are in the "relaxed" position and the strings are just tied off on the control horns and the tension is set at the servo end, as in the vid.
I use .020 music wire, not "hardened" or tempered. Tempered wire is stiffer but will not accept the bends so well.
Yep, that's right re the tubes. They are receptacles to hold the springs and stop them eating into the control surfaces.
Edited By KiwiKid on 20/06/2016 23:16:57
Hi David, yip yip "pull string" is the only way to go. As the video poster mentions, it's easier to set up than a push rod system and lighter to boot.
The first time you do it can be a bit of a head scratcher, but once you see it in action, it's magic. I have done it on all my DLGs, latterly on the Neos.
Just follow the instructions in the vid - all good stuff. However, I prefer to reinforce the spring attachment with a sleeve as the spring can work loose after a bit otherwise. This can be anything suitable like a bit of plastic or aluminium tubing. I have been using the aluminium tubing lately as you can crush one end and sharpen it up - this helps with insertion and stops any glue getting inside the tube. Then use a similarly sized drill bit and create the hole by gently twisting the drill into the control surface manually with your hand. Hold your fingers on each side of the control surface so you can feel if the drill is getting off centre. Once the hole is made, massage in some foam safe CA glue, put a bit on the tube and ease it into the hole, wipe off any excess then let it set (no kicker) overnight - job done.
Don't sweat the load situation. When the model is in flight the servo is active and the spring is actually helping half the time. When you have finished flying you can put the system into standby mode. You do this when switching the battery off or inserting the switch jack by moving the control surfaces to the maximum throw (in the direction which relaxes the pressure) and then cutting the power. This leaves the servos in a "relaxed" state. Some digital servos will actually do this by themselves as they go "limp" and the spring pressure will pull the control surfaces into the "relaxed" position.
Just sing out if you get stuck on anything.
|Thread: Steve McLaren's version of the A4 Skyhawk|
Indeed - this is my EDF impression of NZ6254.
Awesome Steve, that should look great. Some of the Aussie Scooters eventually ended up in the RNZAF and we had quite a flying circus going on until the paint shops caught up
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