Here is a list of all the postings KiwiKid has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Peoples Mosquito|
Good idea! Avspecs are kinda getting the hang of it now
Five years on now - did anything ever come of the Mosquito project?
The Military Aviation Museum's Mossie (built by Avspecs in NZ) and mentioned above by Keiran cost over four million USDs and took 8 years to build. I was fortunate to see it at it's first public performance and it is an experience I will never forget. Lots of pics on the WWW.
|Thread: Amethyst glider|
Looking good Tom.
About six years ago a mate and I built some Sig Ninja slopers - another "back in the day" glider which is a similar layout to the Amethyst, but with a slightly shorter wingspan. Great flyer and I often haul mine out for a rip around the slope. Here's a short vid of the maiden flight - you can see the agility that ailerons provide.
Yes Steve, there are two gliders named named Amethyst, the West Wing in the vid and Tom's one that was manufactured by Premier Balsa Products Ltd.
The Amethyst crystal is said to be a meditative stone which works in the emotional, spiritual and physical planes to promote calm, balance and peace - hopefully the gliders have the same effect.
|Thread: Hordes of beautiful women looking for model flying advice|
Hordes of beautiful women looking for model flying advice do, in fact, exist and some ne'er do wells on another forum actually managed to amass quite a collection of pics in evidence.
Once you have updated you status you may have a look
|Thread: Amethyst glider|
I would strongly recommend adding ailerons if you are planning on sloping the Amethyst. It looks to have a fairly flat dihedral and will respond well to aileron control.
Sloping a two channel glider in anything but very light conditions is, at best, character building and, at worst, downright terrifying. Response times are slow and you run the risk of a total loss of control when landing in turbulent conditions. The model should handle the extra weight with ease and you will get a much more agile model which will be able to do rolls as well as loops. It wouldn't hurt to add some carbon strips onto the wing spar set up to give a bit of added resilience.
Look forward to some pics as you progress.
I built a similar vintage Sorcerer glider a while back and found it pretty sluggish with the RE set-up - adding ailerons really transformed it's performance.
Edited By KiwiKid on 07/08/2017 06:36:20
|Thread: Traplet statement|
Yes, I was horrified to see that even "Australia's No. 1 top selling magazine for the radio controlled aircraft enthusiast" has fallen victim to the general malaise. It was always a good read.
Understandably, they are a bit miffed: **LINK**
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Thankyou for that Anders. I expect that the Kranich will also make a neat slope soarer if you have suitable slopes nearby.
That looks really neat Anders - love the scheme. I was looking at getting one also, but shipping to NZ was pretty expensive. Still thinking about it as it would be a nice complement to my Ka-8B - pic below.
Could I ask what motor, prop and battery set up you used?
|Thread: Lipo disposal questions|
Not recommended, but I guess it gets the job done
|Thread: Spray painting camouflage pattern|
Awesome skills there guys - really a treat to see.
One other technique I am fond of is Blu-tac and cling film. You just cut the Blu-tac into thin strips, bend it to the shape of the camo you want and mask off the rest with the cling film which sticks well to the Blu-tac. You can then spray the subject area with rattle cans or an air brush. By spraying down vertically around the edges you can get nice blurred edges. Couple of my humble efforts below - EDF Skyhawk and a PSS Spit..
|Thread: Man on the moon. Really?|
Interesting post Peter. I didn't know that one Trevor - one thing that sticks in my mind was an interview with Buzz Aldrin where he was asked about the allegations of faking the landings and he said that if anyone had come to him and told him that they had to fake the landings he would have punched them in the face - what a guy. Quite interesting now seeing the shots of the landing sites with all the tracks and gear strewn around - unless they are fake too!!
Edited By KiwiKid on 16/07/2017 22:05:01
|Thread: Electric Round The Pole|
I came upon this site a couple of months back when looking for something else - looks quite intriguing. I guess you could fly indoors when the weather was poo. **LINK**
|Thread: lengthening ESC wires to battery|
Chris is right in saying that the best alternative is extend the motor wires. Assuming the OP did not have this option, then adding the caps is next best fix. As mentioned, not doing this is going to put added stress on the on board caps and mos-fets - they won't fail straight away, but are a ticking time bomb that will go off at some stage. If you are (very) lucky, you might get away with a loss of motor power and a quick landing, if not, power to the RX will be lost and it's then time to assume the crash position (curled up on the ground whimpering)
I am not aware of these modern ESC's that do not need extra caps. Some high voltage ESCs do come with an extra cap, but will need extras based on wire length. Many ESC manufacturers like Castle provide extra cap boards that make it easy to attach multiple caps.
Edited By KiwiKid on 10/07/2017 10:20:49
If you have to lengthen the battery wires, for whatever reason, it is advisable to add extra capacitors in parallel with ESC. As already mentioned, the reason for this is to catch voltage spikes that can occur when the wires are lengthened. Over time these spikes will degrade the on board caps and mos-fets and one day the ESC will fail. As a rule of thumb, (after the first 4inches/10cm) for every 4inches/10cm extra length/distance between battery and ESC, add a 220uF extra cap near the controller. Your local hobby shop might stock these or you can get them from an electronics store.
In your case (with the battery lead) you may end up with 30cm of wiring, so we need to add a couple of caps – like so:
Note that the negative terminals on the caps are denoted by the dashes along the silver line - they are soldered to the black negative wire with the terminals on the other side soldered to the red positive lead.
Also, keep the positive and negative wires as close to each other as possible by taping them together - this is better than twisting the wires as twisting will give them extra length! We do this because, when the wires are close to each other, the series inductance will be reduced.
|Thread: Sig Wonder - Any tips/advice?|
Thanks Piers, yip a pretty straightforward build. I picked up the kit at an auction and found the instructions on line. Just recently found out that SIG still sell spare parts and the kit. Ordered the WONDER decal (like on trebor's) and some stars from here: http://sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/ProductsV6.html?L+Sig+cnlb2432+_Ddp_5fSearch1_02a01RCSigWonderPts_01Search_02Index_01SubMenu_02NONE_01Menu_02CatProd_01Thumb_02R_2fC_20Aircraft_20Sport_20Kit_20Parts_01
Edited By KiwiKid on 07/07/2017 15:16:40
Recently finished my Wonder and had great fun with it on the maiden flight. Anyone else had a crack at one lately?
I set mine up for parkflying with a medium power set up as my local park is a bit noise sensitive.
Here's a vid of the maiden flight: **LINK**
|Thread: Re: Peter Miller's Don't Bin It, Fix It Article|
OK - we can do this
|Thread: Dynam PBY|
Awesome looking Cat that Mike.
+1 for the pipe cleaners and Blu-tack - I have been using them for years and also use cling film to mask off the areas not to be painted.
Here's my TA-4K Skyhawk:**LINK**
|Thread: Slingsby T67|
That Traplet one is probably pretty close, maybe you could shoehorn it in with a bit of trimming.
Edited By KiwiKid on 25/06/2017 22:06:14
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