Here is a list of all the postings Ben B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to do?|
Grab the tail of the plane (assuming not a pusher plane!!) and lift to smash the prop???
|Thread: why we don't fly drones over crowds|
|I was also at Lincoln- that quad certainly had some duration. Every time I looked up it was there hovering. For all the pros and cons impressive stuff.|
|Thread: Guns in Society|
Amen Cymaz, got to say I think we've got it pretty spot on. I shoot .22 targets and shoot clays but when I go home I find it reassuring the guns are locked away in the club and my psychotic neighbour isn't going to have easy access. Cos if they did I'd have to keep one at home and suddenly we're living in the US.....
|Thread: The Mini WOT 4 thread|
I'm slowly fine-tuning this model and I'm coming round to it a bit more. It certainly falls out of the sky when you cut the throttle. My response to that was a throttle curve with more power earlier on in the throttle range which means I'm no longer just using the 3/4 to 4/4 range of the stick. Equally it makes landing trickier because the tiny sweet spot between coming in slowly and plumetting out of the air is a very small stick movement.
Still not overly impressed with the u/c. I did contact Ripmax who asked if the landing site was bumpy... In fact it was a the local cricket pitch which is as smooth as the preverbial neonates gluteus maximums. I ended up buying a spare u/c so I can fabricate a CF jobby.
The main gripe I have with the model is the somewhat anaemic elevator. I've put the DR on 110% (the servo arm and control arm are maxed out) and yet it still lacks any oomph. Rolls are nice but loops / inverted feels like seriously hard work. The recommended rudder throws meanwhile were well over the top and I had to calm them down significantly (think I ended up on 50% DR even on maximum attack mode!).
It looks great though and I really appreciate that it's not a flipping foamy. The issues seem to be related to the size IE you need to fly it fast or it falls out the sky and the u/c just isn't built to handle a fast landing. I suspect the lack of elevator control is partially related to a relative lack of oomph- it tends to fall out of loops due to lack of speed. More power would help though I'm not sure whether the stock motor will take it. I suppose as suggested a heavier motor would remove some church roof even if it would cut down on the currently quite enjoyably long flight time. I think my timer is currently set for 7 minutes which is fine with me.
Overall I'm happy with it. I suspect if it had been 10-20% bigger it would have been a far nicer plane and would still have been "compact". It would have also enabled it to be flown in stronger winds, even with a AS3X rx I'm still wary of flying in a strong wind. Partially that's due to poor penetration so perhaps again a bit more oomph might have helped.
BTW does anyone have the specs on the stock motor?
|Thread: Autumn here...who's been flying ?|
Woke up this morning expecting gales. Sun and not a drop of wind. The archetypal calm before the storm. Went down the park PDQ with my Mini Wot4 and emptied a couple of lipos before the wind picked up. Slowly but surely getting the as3x system, DR etc all dialed in. Latest mod is a throttle curve to give more rpm quicker in the lower half of the throttle stick range - the model has a tendency to drop on what should be a "cruising" stick position so I spend most of the flight between 2/3 and full- hopefully this will help and allow more fine tuning of throttle....
|Thread: Loaded Dice 40S - spray painting|
|Of course it could be isocyanate free|
|I personally still wouldn't. Long term cause asthma type allergies. Acute reactions just kill you. One of my other hobbies is building cars and this topic crops up frequently. It's very tempting to spray 2k rattle cans but it is still dangerous. |
|Thread: My Hermes|
For a laugh once I edited the wikipedia page for "Knock Knock Ginger" (the game of ringing on a door bell and running away) saying it was a popular hobby amongst Parcelforce drivers. Got removed within 10 minutes- no fun.....
I guess the issue with Hermes is that they don't pay well. So some people might (on principle) do a good job anyway, others take the "you pay rubbish, you get rubbish" approach.
I once sat in my front room (I was expecting a package), saw the parcelforce van drive up. They say in the van scribbling on a bit of paper, got out, walked straight up to the door and put the red card through the letter box! The doorbell and doorknocker were not involved in this process. I chased after them and asked them what the hell they were doing. They said it was lunchtime and most people were out so what's the point?
|Thread: Loaded Dice 40S - spray painting|
Mention of 2K paint always gets me worried- are you using a proper ventilated hood? I'm pretty relaxed about most hobby related health hazards but 2K is nasty nasty stuff. Certainly if they contain isocyanates a standard mask isn't good enough- should be air-fed. Spraying 2K paint remains the commonest cause of ocupational lung disease.....
|Thread: Horizon Hobbies|
I share your pain- I stuck a as3x rx in my mini wot4. Ended up buying some suitable cables and chopping and soldering onto the servo leads. Works well. Slightly fiddly soldering as the wires are small but it works fine.... in fact I've just returned from a sneeky fly down the park to tune in the as3x settings a bit more.
|Thread: The Mini WOT 4 thread|
|It's a nice plane and has shown itself to be fairly robust. Undercarriage is weak, servo arms have to be drilled out to take the wire holders. Motor bullet connectors are ridiculously tight fittng (ie impossible to connect). There's more space in the battery bay if you route the esc under the canopy. And you'll need some lead up front to get the CoG right. |
But still a nice plane.
|Thread: Mini Wot 4 or something else?|
|Lots of expo and a forward CoG helps. But then I always like forward CoG and a neutral throttle response. As per the manual it's like riding a bucking bronco!!!! I wrote to ripmax about the u/c, they asked if I had been landing on rough ground - truth is it was freshly cut park and was flat as the preverbial pancake. Cheeky beggers.....|
|Thread: SLOUGH RC|
|And its back! It was unavailable all night and now working again...|
|It's off again! So strange- second time in a fortnight I've had to go elsewhere!!!|
|Thread: Motor longevity|
Bob- have you tried changing the timing on the ESC? Too fast on the timing and you'll get lots of heat because the pulses will trigger too late to create rotation.
|Thread: Mini Wot 4 or something else?|
Don't be put off- once you've got it tuned in at a bigger flying site it's great on a small site. I think I over-complicated it by going as3x and not trusting my judgement re the servo arm connectors. The only thing I have noticed (with lots of smaller planes) is you can't slow down too much in the turns otherwise they sink. It's a shame they don't make the Britflight Breeze anymore- that was just the perfect size for my flying field despite being fairly small. Smaller planes somehow feel bigger by needing more space (IE to fly faster) to keep airborne. My Miniwot4 and the clipped wing cub have one thing in common- a bit short on the wingspan. The Breeze had a nice big wing which never seemed to suffer the "small plane" phenomenon.
Last night's flights with the mini wot4 were short and terrible- the plane was all over the place- it was like riding a rollercoaster. It was also diving terribly on a hand launch (wheels too small to take off from even freshly cut grass).
Overnight I had a think and worked out what it was. The double neutral wasn't a servo issue- it was a result of the little connector that attaches onto the servo arm and connects onto the pushwire being a very tight fit in the servo arm. I knew it was tight when I built the plane but assumed it would free up in use- turns out it didn't. The little black clip that attaches to the screw connector is tricky to get it off so I was going to struggle to drill out the servo arm. In the end I just held the screw connector in my power drill and spun it up- the slight friction disappared after about 30 seconds- no more double neutrals!
Clearly what was happening was the plane was struggling due to having two neutral positions which was causing some oscillation, this was then being aggravated by both me and the as3x compensating but of course not returned to neutral properly. So it was zoom / dive / zoom dive.
Test flights today were much better. The weather report said 10mph gusting 15mph but it wasn't it was easily more like 20mph gusts as times on the exposed flying site.
It's slowly turning into a nice plane. Flight times are 7 minutes on the stock motor and prop and an 850maH 2S zippy compact with 33% left at the end.
So my tips on the build would be
1) drill out the servo arms first
2) ignore the instructions and put the ESC in the area directly under the canopy (rather than in the battery bay- leaves lots of room in the bay for the lipo)
3) somehow make the U/C stronger- I'm trying to decide whether to just re-enforce the replacement with some CF or just use the replacement as a mould for a full CF u/c.
4) use a big battery- even with an 850mAh cell as far forward as I could get it I had to add noseweight.
So it looks like one issue is that the undercarriage is made from litho plate! It's ridiculous. Even a greaser of a landing requires the undercarriage re-bending. Grrrr. I see a nice market for CF mini wot4 undercarriages. I thought it looked a bit lightweight when I stuck it on!!!
Perhaps it's actually only just a former for your own CF replacement!!! :D
I had my second mini wot 4 flight today. I agree about the motor connectors - I couldn't get them to fit at all so gave up and used some different 3mm solder bullet connectors. I'm running a 6335 as3x receiver on mine so I'm still getting it tuned in. I think presently the CoG is too far back for my liking (it's at the furthest back of the CoG range even with a 850mAh 2S as far forward as it will go and I tend to like a very forward CoG point).
It doesn't seem to lack punch on the stock motor and 850 2s battery.
I'm hoping for some calm air tonight so I can get the control deflections right and then at a later stage tune the as3x in some windier weather.
There seems to be a slighty double neutral with the rudder and elevator- can't decide whether it's the pushwires flexing or just stiff servo-end connections.... It's not a major issue but doesn't help the handling.
I think once I've got it tuned in it'll be a nice little plane....
|Thread: rx battery levels and check|
Voltage at rest is a terrible indicator of capacity because there are so many unknowns (capacity, current draw). The usual trick is wiggle the servos and if it goes "low" then stop flying but as you've said define "low"- how lucky/unlucky do you feel? A safe voltage and voltage drop will depend on servos, flying style, battery pack etc.
Thankfully generally speaking all these things will be consistent for a given plane.
When a plane is new I usually tend to do a few flights each day, gradually increasing as I get used to the plane. At the end of each flying day I measure the voltage (at rest and with stick wiggling) and then check to see how many mAh I put back into the battery with the charger.
It would of course be possible to do all this using a chargers discharge function before the first flight.
You can then work out an approximate chart of volts (at rest and with wiggling) for given capacity.
Another thing to consider is that you need to worry not only about running out of capacity but also volts dropping under load to below brown-out voltage (less of a problem with modern receivers).
In cold weather you need to be a lot more cautious.
I tend to just put a charging port on my planes and fast charge between flights with an occasional volt check for peace of mind if I worry I've been flying more than usual.
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