Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?|
There are no nasties in just upgrading the rx firmware. There are a few minor nasties when you upgrade OpenTX from 2.1 to 2.2 as has been mentioned above.
No problem here Chris. The Horus X10 has a nominal supply voltage of 7.2v, ie a 2S lipo which at full chat is 8.4v. The main FrSky XR and SR receivers are all 4v-10v.
The Horus 12S is a bit close to the bone with a 9.6v NiCad battery.
That's no real problem. HK sell 10 female to female leads for £1.34. Fill yer boots!
With a permanent SPort lead fitted to each receiver, it then makes swapping telemetry from one plane to another a job of seconds.
I prefer to use yellow/black leads for the SPort, to identify it from the normal orange/brown JR/Specktum servo leads I normally use. I bought 10 F to F leads from Banggood for about 40p each, only there turned out to be 5 in each pack! Doubt I'll ever run out now.
To be honest, you're going a long way round things. With the X10 you have to go back to FrOS to change to international.
Its far easier to get a few extra servo leads, and stick one in each SPort socket on each receiver and leave it there. Then its less than a minute to use the tx to update them all to EU standard through the SPort. It won't mess up any of the settings on the receivers, except perhaps you may have to rebind them.
Edited By Andy48 on 19/04/2018 21:33:50
|Thread: Magician build|
|I've started building a kit I've had for some time. Have started the fus but need the wings complete before I do more. However, one wing is badly warped so things have come to a full stop. Not sure how you get a warped veneered foam core wing though!|
|Thread: Horus X12S|
|Go to the Links tab on the OpenTx website and you will find a link to my docs near the bottom.|
|Im on holiday right now. D8 mode is available so long as you uncheck the EU box in Companion before installing. As far a going from FrOS yes you do need a backup copy in case they ever update the transmitting module firmware but it does not have to be the most recent version. Not easy on my mobile to give a link to my docs.|
Edited By Andy48 on 14/04/2018 23:10:38
|Oops double post|
Edited By Andy48 on 14/04/2018 23:13:53
|Thread: Safety plug|
...... but the salient point is that you CAN extend battery leads up to at least 8" or 20cm with no adverse consequences, which should be enough for most of us. So often on here you are given the impression that battery leads must not be extended at all.
I think this is a very valid point. Having safety plugs on all my models means that I now have a fixed routine so that I only insert the safety plug when actually on the flying field in a position to take off, and always remove it as soon before the plane is moved from the flying field. Thus it has become almost automatic, and the only time I really have to think about this is when I am testing a model in the workshop. Indeed the safety plug clips on to the transmitter strap hook as a double check.
Sorry but your argument makes little sense.
I'll stick with the old wives tale theory. It may have been accurate years ago, but if it is still true then why is there nothing in the instructions of any of my ESCs about the issue? Its is also interesting that all references to the problem seem to go back to the guy Geoff included the reference to 10 years ago.
Also can you explain why I've never had an ESC failure in 10 years? Most of my ESCs are Hobbywing ESCs of one sort or another and all have survived long leads over an extended period of time.
One ESC manufacturer, I seem to remember, did comment on long battery leads - Castle Creations. However if you follow some of the links from Geoff's reference you will find the following comment by them:
12" between where the wires solder on the ESC, and where they solder on the battery tabs on the pack. Anything over that and you want to add capacitors. Rule of thumb is for every ~4" over that you should add one extra cap that's the same voltage and capacitance rating that is on the controller.
Now we have a definitive measurement, which makes a whole world of difference. Clearly you can have up to 12 inches from the battery to the ESC, not as has been commented ANY extension! (Indeed the poster in Geoff's reference gets this wrong.) It is perhaps interesting to note that there is nothing in the current Castle Creations ESC instructions about long battery leads.
Edited By Andy48 on 10/04/2018 16:21:32
The article is now 10 years old, and probably based on earlier information and ESCs almost certainly will have changed since then. Also 10 years ago battery technology was mostly NiCad.
If voltage spikes higher than the battery voltage can kill the ESC over time, is this the actual battery voltage, or as I am inclined to think, the maximum battery voltage of the ESC? Surely then these voltage spikes will also destroy any extra capacitors you put in circuit, which being electrolytic will have a low voltage.
Finally, the lithium battery itself acts as a capacitor surely?
Is this another one of those issues which through time has become an old wives tale?
Edited By Andy48 on 10/04/2018 14:07:50
All I can say is it must be a very, very long run, because I've never had a problem with ESCs failing and some have been used regularly for the last 10 years with extended battery leads!
Er no. Its running a 5S 5000 battery, and a 1200w motor just to get the noseweight right, though due to the prop size you are correct and it is running around 600-700w. It will fly for over 30 minutes on this setup! Almost all my models have lengthened battery leads, in more recent times these have been needed for the in-line current sensor to be fitted. So far I have never had an ESC fail.
I'll stick a claim form in the post.
I have some very long battery leads in my Puppeteer, it hasn't done any harm so far despite all the doom mongers. The safety plug is actually the steering yoke in the cockpit. Not a very good photo I'm afraid, but you can get the idea.
|Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?|
Tis a small world. I did not take the ICL job (they were on rocky ground then). Instead I went to work with Farnell Instruments (the components people today, then they also had a manufacturing division) as a development/production engineer building power supplies and electronic instrumentation. I did build some special power supplies for ICL though. I stayed there a few years before going into something more rewarding, and eventually back into computers.
Nah! No excuse. I was offered a job commissioning mainframes with ICL, and my first and only IT course (as a participant) was on mainframes with punch cards.
Bob and I both used different themes. Anyway the Companion screen is customisable so you can move menus about.
Bob, beat you to it! I suspect he has tried to find it without loading a model file first. Then you don't see the option to edit radio settings.
Geoff. If you find the USB difficult, simply take the SD card out of the Horus, and plug it directly into your computer, then you can access everything there through OpenTX in the same way you could using the USB lead.
Load the Companion and your models then simply follow the instructions/screenshots on section 4 page 2 of the documentation:
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