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Member postings for Andy48

Here is a list of all the postings Andy48 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?
20/04/2018 12:19:59
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 19/04/2018 22:38:25:

John, I agree it's a quick job ... once you've located the lead and fished the receiver out of the depths of a model I suppose rebinding doesn't take long either. Then, I would need to check everything to see if there aren't a few nasties and the model behaves as it should. None of it hard but I have a lot of models on the Taranis.

What's that? First world problem

Geoff

There are no nasties in just upgrading the rx firmware. There are a few minor nasties when you upgrade OpenTX from 2.1 to 2.2 as has been mentioned above.

20/04/2018 12:17:23
Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 19/04/2018 21:50:16:
Oh and if you do start updating receivers by using Horus, check out the supply voltage on the module bay pins. I have a feeling it might be too high for the receivers.

No problem here Chris. The Horus X10 has a nominal supply voltage of 7.2v, ie a 2S lipo which at full chat is 8.4v. The main FrSky XR and SR receivers are all 4v-10v.

The Horus 12S is a bit close to the bone with a 9.6v NiCad battery.

20/04/2018 12:10:51

Posted by Geoff Sleath on 19/04/2018 21:37:10:

That's what I was afraid of Andy. I had a suspicion that was the case! Thanks. Presumably it works from the .frk files I've just saved to the Firmwares folder I've just created on the Horus's SD card.

Not ordinary servo leads, either - the connectors need to female at both ends (ie with sockets as fit into receiver pins) - I know there's some confusion over the gender of servo leads. If a connector has pins it's male as far as I'm concerned.

Geoff

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 19/04/2018 21:42:46

That's no real problem. HK sell 10 female to female leads for £1.34. Fill yer boots! laugh

**LINK**

With a permanent SPort lead fitted to each receiver, it then makes swapping telemetry from one plane to another a job of seconds.

I prefer to use yellow/black leads for the SPort, to identify it from the normal orange/brown JR/Specktum servo leads I normally use. I bought 10 F to F leads from Banggood for about 40p each, only there turned out to be 5 in each pack! Doubt I'll ever run out now.

19/04/2018 21:32:54

To be honest, you're going a long way round things. With the X10 you have to go back to FrOS to change to international.

Its far easier to get a few extra servo leads, and stick one in each SPort socket on each receiver and leave it there. Then its less than a minute to use the tx to update them all to EU standard through the SPort. It won't mess up any of the settings on the receivers, except perhaps you may have to rebind them.

 

Edited By Andy48 on 19/04/2018 21:33:50

Thread: Magician build
16/04/2018 17:27:17
I've started building a kit I've had for some time. Have started the fus but need the wings complete before I do more. However, one wing is badly warped so things have come to a full stop. Not sure how you get a warped veneered foam core wing though!
Thread: Horus X12S
14/04/2018 23:15:09
Go to the Links tab on the OpenTx website and you will find a link to my docs near the bottom.
14/04/2018 23:09:58
Im on holiday right now. D8 mode is available so long as you uncheck the EU box in Companion before installing. As far a going from FrOS yes you do need a backup copy in case they ever update the transmitting module firmware but it does not have to be the most recent version. Not easy on my mobile to give a link to my docs.

Edited By Andy48 on 14/04/2018 23:10:38

14/04/2018 23:09:55
Oops double post

Edited By Andy48 on 14/04/2018 23:13:53

Thread: Safety plug
13/04/2018 11:10:28

...... but the salient point is that you CAN extend battery leads up to at least 8" or 20cm with no adverse consequences, which should be enough for most of us. So often on here you are given the impression that battery leads must not be extended at all.

12/04/2018 09:35:12
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 11/04/2018 22:05:59:

However, in the end, safety devices rely on their humans being sufficiently conscientious to use them. The safety plug is useless if you forget to remove it just as (say) the bow doors on the Herald of Free Enterprise depended on the man responsible for closing them not being asleep in his cabin and no system in place to check the doors were safe for sea.

I think this is a very valid point. Having safety plugs on all my models means that I now have a fixed routine so that I only insert the safety plug when actually on the flying field in a position to take off, and always remove it as soon before the plane is moved from the flying field. Thus it has become almost automatic, and the only time I really have to think about this is when I am testing a model in the workshop. Indeed the safety plug clips on to the transmitter strap hook as a double check.

10/04/2018 16:18:54

Sorry but your argument makes little sense.

I'll stick with the old wives tale theory. It may have been accurate years ago, but if it is still true then why is there nothing in the instructions of any of my ESCs about the issue? Its is also interesting that all references to the problem seem to go back to the guy Geoff included the reference to 10 years ago.

Also can you explain why I've never had an ESC failure in 10 years? Most of my ESCs are Hobbywing ESCs of one sort or another and all have survived long leads over an extended period of time.

One ESC manufacturer, I seem to remember, did comment on long battery leads - Castle Creations. However if you follow some of the links from Geoff's reference you will find the following comment by them:

12" between where the wires solder on the ESC, and where they solder on the battery tabs on the pack. Anything over that and you want to add capacitors. Rule of thumb is for every ~4" over that you should add one extra cap that's the same voltage and capacitance rating that is on the controller.

I got this great and specific Info from Joe @ Castle Creations Tech Support

Thanks Joe

**LINK**

Now we have a definitive measurement, which makes a whole world of difference. Clearly you can have up to 12 inches from the battery to the ESC, not as has been commented ANY extension! (Indeed the poster in Geoff's reference gets this wrong.) It is perhaps interesting to note that there is nothing in the current Castle Creations ESC instructions about long battery leads.

 

Edited By Andy48 on 10/04/2018 16:21:32

10/04/2018 14:05:36

Hmmm!

The article is now 10 years old, and probably based on earlier information and ESCs almost certainly will have changed since then. Also 10 years ago battery technology was mostly NiCad.

If voltage spikes higher than the battery voltage can kill the ESC over time, is this the actual battery voltage, or as I am inclined to think, the maximum battery voltage of the ESC? Surely then these voltage spikes will also destroy any extra capacitors you put in circuit, which being electrolytic will have a low voltage.

Finally, the lithium battery itself acts as a capacitor surely?

Is this another one of those issues which through time has become an old wives tale?

 

 

 

 

Edited By Andy48 on 10/04/2018 14:07:50

09/04/2018 17:58:49

Posted by Allan Bennett on 09/04/2018 12:21:00:

Lengthened battery leads won't immediately have any noticeable effect, but in the long-run they can harm your ESC due to high-voltage spikes that are somehow induced in them. The remedy is to add capacitors across the leads, close to the ESC.

All I can say is it must be a very, very long run, because I've never had a problem with ESCs failing and some have been used regularly for the last 10 years with extended battery leads!

09/04/2018 09:57:48

Posted by Geoff Sleath on 08/04/2018 21:28:12:

That's encouraging, Andy. I guess your power train will be in the same region as mine - about 600 watts on a 4S LiPo. I think I'll just bite the bullet and put the plug in the battery side of the esc and hope for the best. Of course if there's a problem, I'll blame you totally

Geoff

Er no. Its running a 5S 5000 battery, and a 1200w motor just to get the noseweight right, though due to the prop size you are correct and it is running around 600-700w. It will fly for over 30 minutes on this setup! Almost all my models have lengthened battery leads, in more recent times these have been needed for the in-line current sensor to be fitted. So far I have never had an ESC fail.

I'll stick a claim form in the post.

08/04/2018 21:08:01

I have some very long battery leads in my Puppeteer, it hasn't done any harm so far despite all the doom mongers. The safety plug is actually the steering yoke in the cockpit. Not a very good photo I'm afraid, but you can get the idea.

capture.jpg

Thread: FrSky X10 - Taranis replacement?
25/03/2018 20:40:29
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 23/03/2018 17:17:52:

We are of a kind I worked on commissioning ICT1301computers at the manufacturers (GEC) way back in 1961! (no vdu or keyboard - just toggle switches, a card reader and and punch and a line printer!. Yours for £100k) Then moved on as an electronics instrumentation designer at RR and eventually got involved with microprocessors (Motorola 6800/6809/68000) as h/w logic replacements and on and on ....

All this modern electronics has me totally gobsmacked because I know how difficult it must have been to design. I'm not into helis much but my tiny V911 is amazing and it only cost about £15!

Geoff

Tis a small world. I did not take the ICL job (they were on rocky ground then). Instead I went to work with Farnell Instruments (the components people today, then they also had a manufacturing division) as a development/production engineer building power supplies and electronic instrumentation. I did build some special power supplies for ICL though. I stayed there a few years before going into something more rewarding, and eventually back into computers.

23/03/2018 16:43:54
Posted by Bob Cotsford on 23/03/2018 11:06:35:

Yes Andy, you beat me to it - I will say though, I tend to use menu options to find things rather than icons, must be my mainframe background influencing me wink

Nah! No excuse. I was offered a job commissioning mainframes with ICL, and my first and only IT course (as a participant) was on mainframes with punch cards.

23/03/2018 16:41:55

Bob and I both used different themes. Anyway the Companion screen is customisable so you can move menus about.

23/03/2018 11:19:14

Bob, beat you to it! I suspect he has tried to find it without loading a model file first. Then you don't see the option to edit radio settings.

Geoff. If you find the USB difficult, simply take the SD card out of the Horus, and plug it directly into your computer, then you can access everything there through OpenTX in the same way you could using the USB lead.

23/03/2018 11:06:30

Load the Companion and your models then simply follow the instructions/screenshots on section 4 page 2 of the documentation:

capture.jpg

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