Here is a list of all the postings brokenenglish has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Excerpt from Aero modeller 1971|
There are a few errors here. Of course, Len Ranson wrote some wonderful humour as Pylonius.
While Peter is correct in suggesting that Pylonius was in "Model Aircraft", he's perhaps forgotten that Model Aircraft ceased publication in the mid-sixties. The last issue was December 1965. After that, it was officially "incorporated into Aeromodeller", so the best MA features were transferred to Aeromodeller, including Pylonius and the late John O'Donnell's unequalled free flight discussions and reports.
For PatMc, Ray Malmström was "Fliar Phil", not Pylonius.
OK Percy, so brush the stuff onto the structure, and not on the material !
Edited By brokenenglish on 15/02/2018 17:33:02
|Thread: Spektrum DX6 Tx battery alarm|
Thanks for all your opinions and advice.
On my old DX6i, as mentioned, I always charge before every session, and I don't ever recall seeing a displayed voltage of less than 5V. So I'll go along with the consensus and set an alarm value of 4.8V.
Thanks Frank. You've hit on what sparked my question.
I thought that if I set "battery type" to NiMH, then the Tx software would automatically set a low voltage value.
As you suggest, 4.8V sounds reasonable and safe, but I have zero knowledge and I'd appreciate knowledgeable confirmation!
Thanks Denis (again). I think I found that link, but it seems to mainly discuss Rx cells.
I was thinking not in terms of cell voltage, but in terms of the minimum safe voltage needed by the transmitter to operate properly.
Gentlemen, I have an "idiot" question (sorry!).
I've been flying with a DX6i for the last few years, powered by 4 eneloop cells that are always charged before every session. I've never had the slightest problem, so I intend to continue like that.
However, I've just "upgraded" to a DX6, so I now have a Tx low voltage alarm. The instructions are very clear on setting the type of battery used, but no actual voltage level is given...
So, my obvious question is: when operating a DX6 on 4 eneloops, what would be a reasonable and, above all SAFE, voltage value at which the low voltage alarm should be activated?
I have to say that I'm surprised that I haven't found an answer either in the Spektrum instructions or in any of our threads, which leads me to suspect that I may be particularly stupid and missing something obvious ...
|Thread: 4.8 v or 6 v receiver battery|
Martin, this just shows the differences between us, and therefore the value of discussion.
I'm one of the people who've mentioned Nicads... So:
Firstly, Nicads are still available and, if you want them, you'll be able to obtain them (Tower Hobbies, for example).
Secondly, be aware that when we were forced to change from Nicads to NiMH, there are some applications that no longer worked acceptably (spark ignition systems). This taught me that NiMH are far "weaker" than NiCd. You just don't get the same power, and IMO this has been conveniently "forgotten". I therefore decided to stay with NiCd for my Rx power, for as long as possible. This "as long as possible" factor hasn't yet failed, i.e. NiCd are still available...
The reason that I was drawn into this discussion is that I wanted to learn whether some form of Lithium technology would offer a more powerful alternative to NiMH. If that's the case, I'm interested... If not, I'll stay with NiCd in preference to NiMH.
Thanks Denis. My flying is fairly sedate, so I'm reassured by yourself and PC.
I'm looking for advice in this area as well. My systems are Spektrum, usually with Orange receivers.
By 6V, do you mean 5 NiMH cells?
What 6V receiver packs are commercially available?
I should mention that I'm still using 4-cell Nicad receiver packs, which haven't seen much use but have been in my possession for a few years(!).
Perhaps I should be replacing my Nicad packs, but I test them regularly and I've never had the slightest problem.
|Thread: Re: Death of IC|
So do I.
With all due respect, this is a pointless discussion. If anything "dies" it can only be because insufficient people are interested, so there's no problem.
I prefer IC, but I also fly electric because sometimes it's more convenient.
I think the OP is being blinded by the "trade" element. The problem for the trade is that anyone who has a broad selection of lastest generation glow engines may never need to buy another engine for the rest of his life(!), which is probably my case. Obviously, the trade can't live with that (literally!), so we're being nudged (brainwashed) into thinking that all smallish planes must be electric and all larger planes should be petrol engine powered, for peanuts in fuel economy...
Personally, I think we should all adopt the attitude that the trade should supply what we need. We should not be totally changing our modelling just to enable the trade to sell something else...
|Thread: First build|
Robert, it depends on what your criteria are. Obviously, the trailing edge shouldn't be like that but, to be honest, I don't see anything that will stop the plane from flying.
You'll be able to "trim it out" in flight. One amusing possibility would be to try to build the other wing the same
|Thread: Aeronca Sedan|
Yeah, but as PatMc and myself suggested, if you're looking for a tough all-weather model with a fairly high airspeed, then a vintage free flight Aeronca Sedan may not be an ideal starting point.
The beauty (charm) of such models is that they're light and fly slowly (around scale speed), and are both aesthetically pleasing and relaxing to fly. Your proposed mods will destroy all that, and bring you back to the conclusion that you've picked the wrong model for rough weather, high speed flying.
Only my opinion of course, but I think you'd be disappointed with the result and you'd completely miss out on the real qualities of the model.
Respectfully, I'm always amazed when builders take a super old model, that's been flying perfectly well for decades, and decide, for no clear reason, that the plane is "liable" to all sorts of problems (that no-one has ever experienced), and therefore needs to be extensively modified.
IMO, the Sedan built exactly to plan, with minimum mods for radio, and a PAW 15 or 19, would be superb.
With a competition glider wing section (!), you're going to end up with a high-speed powered glider. There must be other designs that are more suitable for that kind of flying.
Sorry, please don't take offence, it's only my opinion!
|Thread: Ancient Engine ID?|
Here are all the diesel K Vultures.
Percy, it looks like S/N 731 to me.
|Thread: Considering going electric - advice rplease|
To go back to the OP, you don't have to "go electric", or "go" anything else.
I've been flying both for the last five years, and flying both suits me fine.
There are contexts in which electric will be more convenient, and contexts in which you'll get more pleasure from i.c.
|Thread: DB matador|
Yeah, the engine shown in the photo is a DC Sabre.
|Thread: Nitro proof Matt spay over ovacover|
The real problem is that if you want a matt finish, then you picked the wrong covering material.
|Thread: Is traditional building a disappearing art?|
It can't be disappearing that fast... This debate has been going on for decades...
|Thread: P.A.W. 1.49 plain bearing - can't adjust compression|
Tom, you may have found a reason for erratic running. I think there should be a gasket on the backplate.
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