Here is a list of all the postings brokenenglish has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: P.A.W. 1.49 plain bearing - can't adjust compression|
Martin, I (more than) agree entirely!
To enjoy engines, you have to love playing with them and "getting it right".
Those who look upon engines as being "smelly" or "dirty/oily" and a chore to operate, obviously have a right to their opinions, but they'd really be better off with knitting, or goldfish, or electric flight, or some similar pastime...
Thanks Denis, I'll note that!
OK, here's a video showing the freeing up of a gummed up PAW 149, including knocking the contra-piston back using the technique that I described. I didn't post it before because this engine has a muffler and an RC carb. but the basic freeing up and getting the thing running are the same.
Tom, who asked the question at the beginning, may get some inspiration from this. It does show the knocking back of the contra-piston in a gummed up engine.
I'm amazed that someone mentioned an electric starter. An electric starter is totally out of context, it doesn't offer any advantage whatsoever to free a gummed up engine!
Anyway, here's a link to my PAW 149. Sorry, I don't know how to show the video here.
Edited By brokenenglish on 12/12/2017 20:23:51
Edited By brokenenglish on 12/12/2017 20:24:44
Jon and ED, that just isn't true!
Note that I emphasised "Make sure you can turn the engine over gently".
I must have used that procedure dozens of times in the last 50 or 60 years, and I've never damaged anything!
For me, the problem with the advice that many people offer is that anyone asking for advice will be inexperienced and possibly a "beginner". IMO, to advise delicate disassembly and abrading operations is irresponsible. It's far better for an inexperienced person to avoid disassembly No damage can occur using my method providing you go about it sensibly and check that the engine turns over OK, which is clearly stated!
Another valid point is that, in this case, we're dealing with an engine that has already been run, so it probably runs OK, it's just that the C/P is gummed up with congealed residue... That's no great issue and, for me, it certainly doesn't justify disassembling anything!
Tom, several people have asked this question on my youtube channel. Each time, I've replied by the text below and, in every case, they came back saying "Thanks, it worked", so you may like to read and/or try the following:
First method (if it’s only moderately stuck):
-Mount the engine and install a propeller,
-Unscrew the compression screw a lot, you can even remove it,
-Put plenty of fuel in the cylinder (huge prime),
-Make sure you can turn the engine over gently (important!),
-Then give the propeller a good whack. Overcompressed combustion will often knock the contra piston back.
If this doesn’t work, then you need to unstick the contra piston any way you can...
The following has worked for me many times.
-Mount the engine and install a propeller,
-Gently turn the compression screw down, say half a turn, to increase compression. This must have « unstuck » the contra piston. When you’re sure you’ve actually moved the contra piston, then proceed as above, i.e.
-Unscrew the compression screw a lot,
-Put plenty of fuel in the cylinder,
-Make sure you can turn the engine over gently,
-Then give the propeller a good whack.
The important thing about the second method is that you start by forcing the contra piston to move, so you know it’s no longer « stuck ». You have also increased compression slightly, so there will be more force to knock the contra piston back. You won’t do any damage providing you unscrew the compression screw before turning the engine over, i.e. the contra piston will move before you bend a con-rod!
This method has always worked for me.
If it doesn’t work, then I would try serious heating (oven), followed by the above procedure.
If all that fails, you’ll have to disassemble... but I repeat, the above has always worked for me.
|Thread: Nitro Engine Starter|
Respectfully Cymaz, I hope you're joking...
You mean that the name for any given engine depends on the fuel that you happen to be using today...
A glow engine doesn't cease to be a glow simply because you're using x% nitro!
At the outset, it was an "alternative culture" term, invented by marketing to stimulate car racing kids.
Yeah Percy, the "nitro" nonsense is a marketing term invented by the model car people, to make i.c. engines sound exciting and even a little "daring"!
As an old engine lover (in every sense), I'm relieved to find that I'm not the only person offended!
Shame that ridiculous marketing is destroying culture.
|Thread: Thread sizes for Amco .87|
John, in one of the above posts, T.O. is certain that they're 4 BA and, in view of my non-engineering non-expertise, I should think he's probably right!
And thanks to Denis for the bit of soldering experience that many of us lack!
Edited By brokenenglish on 07/12/2017 07:10:03
Sorry John, I'll go against your instructions and comment anyway!
I'm not an engineer or even a doctor, but I do have a lot of old engines.
I have no way of identifying a thread, but I checked the Amco propnut/spinner thread against a few other engines, and it's the same thread as the Allbon Dart, DC Dart, ED Baby and Mills 75. So it can't be an unusual thread.
I checked the Amco engine test (AM August '48), but Sparey doesn't mention thread sizes. However, in view of the above, I think it's extremely likely to be 5 BA.
Edit: When posting, I noticed you wanted the compression screw thread as well. I checked and it's the same as the crankshaft. The propnut screws onto the comp screw perfectly! How's that for useless knowledge!
Edited By brokenenglish on 06/12/2017 18:36:28
|Thread: ED MK IV|
Yes Pat, Oct/Nov. '63, and the Pep had already been transformed into the ZA92.
Yeah, they're not without faults, but I possess two that run OK.
|Thread: Pesky Little 1S Lipos!|
OK, Thanks for all the answers. Just about what I hoped for.
Rereading all this, it occurs to me that replacing the battery every three years or so would obviously be a wise policy. Plus the fact that I expect to get better (safer) results now that I've realised the importance of a storage charge.
I'm relieved to learn that I wasn't doing anything ridiculous... but it's a bit disturbing to learn that you can perpetrate a major disaster (house fire) without doing anything ridiculous!
Finally, Thank you all!
Gentlemen, I don’t want to start a conjectural debate, but I need some knowledgeable advice and guidance.
I’ve been using a large capacity (1S 5.0 Ah) hard case RC car battery for a bench running spark ignition circuit. For several years now I’ve been charging this battery at 1C (5 A) and it has become very swollen.
A couple of days ago, I had a very lucky escape. I was charging the battery as usual, and it started emitting crackling/sizzling/spitting sounds. I immediately stopped charging, obviously, and very gingerly disconnected the battery and took it outdoors. It was very hot !
Obviously, that battery can no longer be used, so I’ve ordered a replacement (1S 6.4 Ah) (with a Lipo bag!!!).
I suspect that the problem with the old battery may be that, for the first 2 or 3 years, I used to leave it permanently fully charged, which leads to my simple question:
What charging current should I use to charge this new battery? And also what discharge current, for "storage" charging.
Note that I’m never in a hurry for charging, and I wouldn’t be at all bothered by a low current / long period charge.
Expert opinions invited please!!!
|Thread: ED MK IV|
Mike, the Pep and the Super Fury date your pamphlet as about 1960. The Pep was introduced in 1960 and didn't last long. It was made for ED by a sub-contracting firm called Bardsleys, in Brentford High Street if I remember correctly. Note that the Pep crankcase is an exact copy of the OK Cub 049.
Edited By brokenenglish on 23/11/2017 18:17:17
|Thread: Covering for use with Diesel Engines|
To go back to the OP, an easier question would have been:
"Are any coverings incompatible with diesel fuel?"
I've used various films and tex coverings over the years, with diesels, and I've never had any problem.
And for John, IMO, if you have the choice between a PAW (particularly RC) and a converted Babe Bee, you'd have to be mad (or masochistic) to choose the converted glow.
|Thread: ED MK IV|
No Peter, I still use KK Truflex for gentle bench running (great fun), and I still fly using Topflite plastic with sport diesels. They haven't deteriorated at all, they're just not suitable for modern high performance (schnürle) engines.
Yeah, you need an old soft plastic or wood propeller, 10x6, 11x4 or 12x4.
This video shows one of mine running well.
Edited By brokenenglish on 16/11/2017 21:34:32
Edited By brokenenglish on 16/11/2017 21:39:01
|Thread: Triple Connector|
To return to the OP.
Go into eBay UK "Toys & Games", and search for "triple rod connector".
Edited By brokenenglish on 15/11/2017 12:28:05
Edited By brokenenglish on 15/11/2017 12:28:25
|Thread: Stick plane Plans|
David, respectfully, I think you mean the thirties !
If you're thinking of a smallish model, then it may well be David Boddington's "Mills Beam" or "Mills Bomb".
If you're thinking of a bigger model, then it will probably be the "Lanzo Stick". I don't have a plans source for that, but just Google "Lanzo Stick RC" and you'll find it immediately (I just did).
Edited By brokenenglish on 12/11/2017 14:14:52
Edited By brokenenglish on 12/11/2017 14:15:51
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