Here is a list of all the postings brokenenglish has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wot-4 E Mk2 (balsa) nylon wing bolts|
RCPF, I agree. I had to do exactly that in my Acrowot foamie.
Thanks Denis, what a mine of information you are !
Edited By brokenenglish on 20/05/2018 11:38:47
|Thread: Parkzone Radian on Phoenix rc5.5i|
I don't know anything about simulators but, as John says, the PZ Radian doesn't have ailerons!
IMHO, there are so many good planes around that it's not worth messing with simulators, unless you live in the middle of a huge city, or something like that...
|Thread: Balsa USA Sopwith Pup 1/6 scale|
Simon, just a little thought on the engine problem, while Jon is finishing his breakfast.
The engine apparently runs well for a while, and your problem starts to occur after a few minutes of flight.
This would indicate that the engine is basically OK, but you need to look at the parameters that can change during the engine run (flight). These would be temperature (overheating) as suggested above, or a problem related to fuel level in the tank. Obviously, if the tank positioning isn't perfect, the fall in the fuel level can lean out the mixture.
Concerning overheating, cowling ventilation is an obvious criterion but (with apologies to Jon!), overheating can also be addressed by using fuel with a more generous oil content, and a good dose of castor.
Finally, the above parameters can obviously be inter-related and compounded, i.e. an engine that's starting to run lean will tend to overheat.
Edited By brokenenglish on 08/05/2018 09:14:45
Edited By brokenenglish on 08/05/2018 09:15:32
Simon, I thought that was really good, apart from the dead stick problem.
As you imply, a little more engine operating experience would no doubt help.
Do you have any acknowledged "engine experts" around you?
Yeah, perhaps I'm lucky. I'm working at home/retired, in the country, and all my neighbours are running chain saws, tractors and all sorts of agricultural machinery so, providing I run my engines at a reasonable time (working hours, for example), there will never be a problem.
Another point is that I've always loved playing with engines (I'm a collector and flyer), so a good excuse is always welcome! However, there is real advantage in that I never seem to have an engine problem and IMO, it must in some way be due to the thousands of hours that I've spent playing with them!
Over the past few days, I've been running in an old spark ignition engine that I purchased as NOS 50 years ago. Wonderful!
Jon, I didn't mean (and didn't write) that bench running sorts the engine out for the plane but, obviously, there's not much point in putting any engine into a plane unless and until you're fully confident that the engine runs well and does everything the way it should.
Perhaps I didn't make it clear that the bench running isn't related to any particular plane. After running in, it's a preliminary setting up of the engine, making sure that you're getting all the performance characteristics you want, before putting into any plane. I did then mention the important bit of getting the engine sorted in the plane.
It must work because, looking back, I don't think I've ever had a "dead stick" or engine performance problems.
Simon, I really enjoyed this. Thanks! And it was/will be helpful.
Just a couple of engine suggestions.
Get the engine operation fully sorted on the bench, before installing it in a plane. You can simulate a flight sequence, as below, and make sure everything's OK (a bit late now!).
Then, when the engine is installed in the plane, run it through a simulated flight sequence, with starting, takeoff, medium cruising idle and slowest idle for landing, before even going to the field.
I'm lucky as I have a fairly big garden, and I taxy a new plane around the lawn for the above sequence, just blocking the plane by standing in front of the tailplane, for the medium/high power bits. But even without the garden, get the engine handling 100% before attempting flight, even if you have to do it at the field.
Respectfully, when you've built such a super plane (sincerely), you shouldn't be discovering that you have a fuel line routing problem when you're attempting the maiden!!!
Apart from that, Congratulations on the whole project. It's superb! But get the engine sorted 100% before risking such a lovely plane!!!
Edited By brokenenglish on 07/05/2018 09:33:06
|Thread: Grain direction|
If in doubt, laminate!!!
|Thread: Query on use of old Futaba 35Mhz equipment with modern electrics|
Further to Peter's remark above, and with apologies for going a little OT, do you gentlemen think that a ferrite ring could be used around a spark ignition plug lead, to suppress ignition interference?
|Thread: Any French speakers who can translate a few bit of a model plan for me?|
The only French forum I use is "Retroplane", as I'm mainly interested in vintage and it's a great site anyway.
I've lived and worked in France since 1969, after 8 years RAF flying.
Pete, I don't suppose it will interest anyone, but the translations you found in Modelisme have been directly lifted from the Dassault Aviation terminology database... Identical presentation... everything...
For anyone interested, I've translated and explained Jon's problem text, as per below:
As I suspected, the text is perfectly clear but your copying omitted an essential bit! He doesn't say "obtenu à gauche", he says "obtenu par dérive à gauche"!!!
So, the text means: "Trim to fly to the right as consistently as possible. This is obtained using left rudder(!) and differential wing incidence (packing pieces), with fine adjustment of downthrust and sidethrust."
Jacques made a slight terminology error, in that he mentions "vrillage" (warping), whereas he actually means packing pieces (which must be under the right wing trailing edge, I think).
In fact, to simplify for you. He's flying to the right, with right sidethrust and reduced incidence (not washout!) on the right wing, and he's moderating those two right turning factors by adjusting left rudder to achieve gentle right turns. OK?"
Edited By brokenenglish on 24/04/2018 10:32:25
Edited By brokenenglish on 24/04/2018 10:42:59
That's wrong. "profondeur" means "pitch control", i.e. it's the aerodynamic function and not the waggly bit of airframe.
When your French guys say "profondeur", if they mean the actual elevator, they should be saying "gouverne de profondeur".
Also, I think you're "mishearing" the term. They're just saying "profondeur", not "UN" profondeur, which would be meaningless applied to pitch control.
Edited By brokenenglish on 24/04/2018 10:38:31
|Thread: Piano wire benders|
I've been using the K&S Mighty for quite a few years.
I've forgotten what I paid for it, but it sure is a good wire bender!
|Thread: hobbyking tundra|
The Tundra is a great flyer.
Concerning the prop rotation issue. You just have to read the instructions!!!
I gave mine its first flight in "ridiculous" conditions (strong wind and gusting) and I got away with it!
It has that "Wot 4" quality in that you can do a lot of things with it... but it's easy to fly!
|Thread: Durafly Tundra|
Yeah, I've been flying a Tundra for a couple of weeks.
Great flyer. It fits in the car OK assembled and is ideal for those who live close to reasonable fields (my case).
One recommendation. If you like a bit of aileron differential, which involves offsetting the servo arms slightly forward, then do it before you assemble the wings to the fuselage. Once the plane is assembled, the presence of the fuselage makes removing the aileron servo arms a bit fiddly (little clearance for a screwdriver).
|Thread: Restoring an old Flair Junior 60, Help and Advice needed|
Mike, If you download the plan from Outerzone, you'll get answers to many of these questions.
From memory, I think the plan shows 4" wheels, and these big balloon wheels are part of the model's character really.
|Thread: Covering Models With Nylon|
I still cover using tissue, silk and nylon. I'm covering the flying surfaces of a Vic Smeed "Electra" with nylon right now.
The tail surfaces are covered, and I'm about to cover the wing. On the tailplane, I tried the old CL combat wing method of just one piece of nylon, applied from the trailing edge, around the leading edge and back to the trailing edge, and it was successful.
I'm going to cover the wing the same way. I've always wanted to cover a wing in one piece of material, and I'm about to do it. I think it would be easy with Solartex, but with nylon & dope, perhaps a bit more fiddly... There will have to be one chordwise cut I think, just on the top surface in the centre, to allow for the dihedral, but the only join (overlap) along the span will be at the trailing edge, not the TE strip of wood but the aerodynamic TE, 1mm deep.
Be flying soon!
|Thread: Low wing recommendation|
Yesterday, Don suggested the VQ Maracana. I'll wholeheartedly second that! It's a great plane!
I think it should be available in the UK, perhaps under another name...
Anyway, it's here:
Edited By brokenenglish on 13/03/2018 16:46:57
|Thread: help identifying an old plane|
Looks like a Radio Queen.
With gentle flying old timers like that, any reasonable control throws will be OK for flying. You'll more rudder control than elevator. Likewise, the CG will be very non-critical, but it's shown on the plan, here:
Edited By brokenenglish on 13/03/2018 13:57:18
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