Here is a list of all the postings Caveman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chapter One Rib Section|
No need to pursue Sarik; I've got the magazine with the original 3 channel Chapter One plan (November 2014) and the one with the aileron wing plan (November 2015)
If you pm me with your address I'll stick both plans in the post to you. I not going to build a Chapter One or A Cruiser so I don't need them.
Also, do you have copies of the build articles (there were about 7 in total) which were published in RCM&E early in 2014?
If not, also let me have your email address by PM and I'll scan them and email them to you so that you have the full picture!
Hi John, plans in pdf format can be printed to any size you require by printing in them 'tiled' on multiple sheets, which can then be taped together to recreate a full size plan.
It's a bit long winded but it means you can do it 'in house'.
Assuming you're using an up-to-date copy of Acrobat Reader, than set it up as follows:
Select your printer
Ensure 'All' pages are set to print
Click on the 'Poster' box as shown - this should show, in the preview pane, the drawing overcast with the lines to represent the multiple pages which will be printed.
Note: you can print the plan at any scale by altering the scale figure.
If the 'cut marks' box is checked then alignment marks will be printed in each corner of each output page to allow for accurate alignment.
Then click on 'Print'
Lastly, spend a long time sticking the pages together!!
PS Use a straight edge laid along straight lines , eg wing spars & fuselage lower edge, when joining the pages to ensure correct alignment and avoid wavy edges
|Thread: What are the rules?|
David, no mystery about the pronunciation of Leonhard Euler's name. He was born in the German speaking part of Switzerland, and in the German language 'eu' is pronounced 'oy', hence his name sounds like 'oyler'.
Hi, I've got two relevant pdfs, both from the internet, but I've no idea where from!!
The first about aerodynamics (quite detailed enough for modellers) and the second describing the design of a trainer, including the maths necessary to explain the choices of the dimensions.
If you would like them PM me with you email address and I'll send then to you.
|Thread: OS MAX40 fp Carbeurator|
There's one for sale here:
Bit pricey but if you really want one.....
|Thread: Greg's Cap 20L 2018 Mass Build|
Hi Greg, simply took the published plan to Staples and ask them to copy it 12% larger! In all they made 4 copies and it cost me about £12.
Unfortunately with the demise of Staples in the UK that's no longer a possibility. However, there are other print companies who can do this, it's just a case of finding one in your locality.
Alternatively you can scan the original drawing in parts, e.g. ribs and formers, and print at 112%, but that takes a lot longer and is potenetially more error prone.
|Thread: Paul's CAP 20 L build 2018 MB|
My model is covered in HobbyKing film, as are all my scratchbuilt models. I've never used Solarfilm, or anything else for that matter, as the HK stuff is half the price!!
In this case the coloured flashes are adhesive backed commercial sign makers plastic film, given to me by a club member, having been rescued by him just as it was about to be dumped in a skip!
I attach the film at 100 deg C with no sock, and then shrink it tight at around 140/150 deg C with sock. It goes round curves etc. quite well.
The lettering and logo are inkjet printed onto clear decal paper.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on.
|Thread: Greg's Cap 20L 2018 Mass Build|
Hi Greg, when I built my model, a year or so ago, I trawled the internet and found a reasonable amount of info about the CAP 20 L including the photo of IZAB. I even found the Viterbo club website and logo, which I reproduced on the fin of my model.
However, I've done a search today and can't find much at all, not even a photo of IZAB with spats, and I've definately seen one in the past.
So I don;t know where they've all gone. But, the colour scheme you've found look good to me, and I'm looking forward to seeing your finished model.
PS I make a kit of parts before starting to build, and for a model like this with the inset ailerons towards the wing tips, separate servos in each wing is my preferred method. Even if you don't have spare TX channels a Y lead operates them.
|Thread: Paul's CAP 20 L build 2018 MB|
Hi Paul, I haven't progressed to making canopies yet, so I used the 'standard' Vortex canopy and with a bit of careful trimming it does the job quite nicely. Although it's smaller than scale (?) who would know?
Here it is, complete with pilot and FrSky GPS unit.
I do like the way you've designed the cowl. That should be a good sturdy fit, and easily removable.
As I fitted my engine sideways I made the lower half fixed and the upper half removable.
Also, note the Aluminium spinner - much better!
Incidentally, although my first few flight were fine, take-offs and landings were not. The model nosed-over at the slightest provocation.
I have now bent the legs much further forward and that's solved the problem. I don't know if I installed the leg mountings in the wing at the wrong angle, or what, but this is where the legs are currently.
Just one more poimt; going back to the GPS unit installed, this shows that the plane is easily capable of well over 80 mph ground speed, and there's no hint of flutter, so perhaps the counter weighing is doing its job
HI, i agree with Paul, spats and longish grass are probably not a good mix!
This is my CAP 20 L, from Peter's plan but increased in size by 12% ( I had an Irvine 46 with Pitts exhaust, and as the plan was originally based on a 32 I went for a larger airframe)
It's based on a this full size example:
I felt that as the full size plane didn't have spats I was justified in keeping to the scale-look and left them off.
PS Mine's now got an aluminium spinner in place of the white plastic one, even more scale!
|Thread: Lipo storage, slight swell|
Hi Tony, I've got this charger, which is mentioned above:
You can read the manual here:
It will do all the functions you need.
As far as I'm concerned it's a cracking bit of kit!
|Thread: Ford Flivver - Help needed|
Martin, I've used this formula to determine wingspan or engine size when scaling a plan. It's from a previous discussion thread on this forum:
This would suggest a 1.00 FS, so perhaps a 0.91 FS would be suitable.
An excellent result. I've thoroughly enjoyed following your refurbishment.
Next job, a decent video is needed.
However, no music please, I can't understand why people make videos of planes and then replace the audio with music! I want to hear the engine(s), and I'm sure I'm not alone....
|Thread: Piper J3 Cub|
John, have a look here:
It's the right wingspan, but, a different reg. number. However, Super Flying Models make a larger model:
This one has the same reg. no., so the smaller one could have used your number in the past when suppied to a different importer?
|Thread: Friday the 13th|
Too bad Steve,
I had a Hobbyking Soar 40, a Calmato lookalike/copy (?). It was a lovely flier, which met its maker due not to any mechanical or electrical failure, but by my brain malfunction!
I looked around for a replacement, but finally decided to recreate it from new.
So, from the remains I drew up plans;
and built a new one, using all the salvaged hardware..
I intended to make a canopy from a coke bottle, but the bottles are all too small. Had I realised that before hand I could have made the canopy shorter. In the end I made one from balsa and painted it.
It flies just as well as the original - well worth the effort.
|Thread: key fob camera|
Here's how I mounted mine on my Whizzkid glider. The mounting plate is held by the wing mouting screw.
I worked very well - I used plenty of bands as I didn't want it to fall off in flight!
|Thread: OS max 20 carb|
Hi Brian, David's comments above are probably the best way to go, but, if you want the challange of doing it yourself, the adjustment instructions are:
Brian, here's the info you're looking for
I've got 2 1A carbs and a 1G - they all have a fair amount of end float, somewhere around 1.5 to 2mm, so perhaps it's normal.
Do you have the instructions for adjusting the needle valve and air-bleed screw? If not I'll scan those and post them.
|Thread: Help with identifying an unknown plane(Kit)|
Colin, it's not a CAP 20L as this plane has the undercarriage set in the wings.
Here's my model from Peter Miller's plan
However, Traplet have Peter's plan from August 2007 for the CAP21 which has the u/c just like your model here
The wingspan is given as 53", but that may not be reliable.
|Thread: Taranis question|
Here's how I do it:
On the 'inputs' page, edit the throttle input setting for 'Offset' give a value of 20.
This will cause the servo movement related to the throttle stick to be from -80 to +100.
On the 'Special functions' page I set switch H to override the throttle channel with a value of -100. This closes the throttle to below the set idle and will cut the engine. I use switch H because it's sprung and returns the throttle to 'normal' when released.
You will, of course, have to adjust the throttle servo linkage to operate the throttle from idle to fully open using the -80 to +100 range.
PS If that's not clear I can add some photo of my screens if necessary, just ask.
Edited By Caveman on 23/04/2017 20:32:30
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