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Crescent Bullet Owners

Can you advise on throws please?

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Jack Banner18/12/2014 23:56:33
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332 forum posts
43 photos

Hey there,

I am in the final stages of re-covering and re-fitting out a Bullet bought on Ebay. Turned out to be a bigger project than I thought but nearly there now.

Only issue is I wasn't given the build CD (this was made from the PB Models kit) and the A3 sheet I was given doesn't show the throws (or anything useful really!)

A bit of google-fu found a recommendation for the CofG at 80mm but I have drawn a blank on the control throws.

I was going to go for around 10mm on the Ailerons, 14mm on the elevator and as much as I can get on the rudder. With a dash of expo does that sound about right?

many thanks for anyone who can help.

Bill Michie19/12/2014 10:01:27
86 forum posts
5 photos

10mm sounds quite a lot on the ailerons, esp at high speed, I'd advise have a low rate also set, at say 60% in case it's a bit twitchy! Elev sounds about right, also might be good idea to have a lower rate selectable for initial flights. I set my PB Tornado up at 10mm on Ail's & it was quite twitchy, so added more expo & low rates at about 70% that's OK for now.

Enjoy!

Bill

Bob Cotsford19/12/2014 10:46:14
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7076 forum posts
404 photos

I think 6-8mm each way on ailerons and 10-12mm on elevator should be enough. I honestly don't know exactly how much I have set up on mine, it was done on the basis of 'looks about right'.

Steve Dunning19/12/2014 11:42:36
324 forum posts
186 photos

How often do we do that Bob? And it generally works out OK!

Bob Cotsford19/12/2014 12:43:07
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7076 forum posts
404 photos

Yes Steve, once you have built and flown a few models you do get a feel for what you will need. I have to say that I hardly ever end up with the manufacturers recommended setup, it's a start point that you can then alter to match your own preferences.

Sam Wragg19/12/2014 15:01:53
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171 forum posts
219 photos

After flying Bullet for a number of years i would advise,

Aileron at 100% High rate 9mm up 8mm down

Elevator at 100% High rate 9mm up 11mm down.

Then set your low rate to 50%.

Rudder max throw at high rate then set low rate to 50%

Try this and see how it feels and adjust your rates accordingly?  Generally I would advise to fly on low rates. As for Expo I would start at 20% and wouldn't advise anything over 40%, again this is asking for trouble.

 

Hope this helps

Sam

Edited By Sam Wragg on 19/12/2014 15:08:27

Jack Banner19/12/2014 15:53:00
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332 forum posts
43 photos

Many thanks all, that certainly helps me out.

I currently only have a single servo for the Ailerons so will test fly with no differential Sam but will probably investigate this in the near future.

fingers crossed for flying at the weekend.

Hangar 9 nut19/12/2014 18:25:58
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243 forum posts
25 photos

This is good for me as I have just finished building a Bullett too with OS 40fsr cant wait for next years UKCAA !

Jack Banner19/12/2014 19:25:16
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332 forum posts
43 photos
I have a mk1 irvine .39 in mine. Should be good.
minty morton19/12/2014 19:27:48
99 forum posts
2 photos

Hi Jack. My EP bullet as seen at UKCAA events for the last 2 years seems to fly reasonably ok with the following:-

Aileron 9mm 45% expo

Elevator 10mm 40% expo

Rudder 30mm 65% expo

Hope this helps.

Minty

Peter Android21/12/2014 13:47:26
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39 forum posts
1 photos

Useful info Guys.

Nowt like advice from actual users ! and has asked a few questions I was pondering over .

Will continue my original Bullett refurb , if and when I get the garage sorted . and the cold weather a bit more bearable .

sadly the wing was beyond repair , but Stevie Dunning has made me a " superb " replacement , with mods.

At least it will begin as superb, until I get my rope, tackle , and hatchet into it ? delicate I ain't.

Jack Banner16/01/2015 13:00:21
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332 forum posts
43 photos

Hi all.

I have now successfully flown my re-furbished Bullet and it was very good! I found it a pleasure to fly being nice and stable in the air and predictable. I haven't fully tested it's flight envelope as yet but will do over the next few weeks.

One thing I do want to look at changing is the nose wheel. Currently it is fixed but I would quite like to have some steering there if at all possible. Does anyone have some pictures of a steerable nose-wheel on this plane please? Any tips on how best to do it would also be good.

cheers

Ian Southerton 119/01/2015 11:17:45
121 forum posts
14 photos

Hi

I've just purchased a Crescent PB Bullet and am starting to build it. I've built a couple of 30" span planes from plans, but this is my first kit.

Sooo, apologies if I post some silly questions!

Firstly, I've put the leading and trailing edges on the the foam veneer wings, I next have to fit the inside and outside edges which are made from aileron balsa, and the the wing tips.

Questions are, I assume I have to bevel the aileron front edge to allow it to move, what type of hinge is recommended and when I join the the 2 wing halves together, do I have to chamfer the inside edges to make a better joint for the dihedral? Also, what's recommended, single or twin aileron servos? Finally (for now) when I join the wing halves together, and strengthen it with epoxy/webbing, how do I neatly cover the joint in film?

Thanks.

Ian.

ken anderson.19/01/2015 11:55:16
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7970 forum posts
726 photos

hello Ian...my answer for you how I would do it.......

Mylar for hinge's then run over with the covering..to give a gap free hinge...

if it has dihedral in it you'll need to chamfer the wings to get the correct amount....

either or single or twin servo's up to you.....twin is easier to adjust for differential etc...

the wing joint can be covered over with masking tape and the covering will stick to that...

ken Anderson....ne.....1 tech dept/not.

Bob Cotsford19/01/2015 12:51:01
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7076 forum posts
404 photos

+1 for the masking tape over the centre join, giving the tape a light rub with wet'n'dry will enable the film to stick even better. My Bullet cores were supplied correctly angled to match up giving the right amount of dihedral.

Richard Wood19/01/2015 13:46:34
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1061 forum posts
163 photos

Hi Ian, Just one other thing with the build - check the wing bolt captive nut positions
in their ply mount in the fuselage. If I remember correctly they may need shifting
a bit to avoid the aileron torque rods.
Cheers.
 

Edited By Richard Wood on 19/01/2015 13:47:06

Richard Wood19/01/2015 14:24:43
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1061 forum posts
163 photos

Of course the twin aileron servo arrangement avoids this issue - the aileron
torque rods do not need to be built in to the wing centre section.


Steve Dunning19/01/2015 15:26:08
324 forum posts
186 photos

Hitec 77 or similar low profile work well in a wing of this thickness, speaking from experience.

Steve

Ian Southerton 119/01/2015 19:57:22
121 forum posts
14 photos

Thanks for the replies, I have a sheet if mylar I can make some hinges out of, I still haven't decided on 1 or 2 servos yet!

Looks like there may be some dihedral cut into my wings, will find out when I finish sanding them down and clean the ends up.

Problem of the evening, I sanded the trailing edge, using the flat surface of the veneer of the wing as a sanding guide, so if I covered the wing, the new edge would look like part of the wing. Unfortunately, this measures 10mm wide and the aileron stock is 12mm.

Any tips how I should fit/sand the ailerons to the wing?

Cheers, Ian.

 

 

Steve Dunning19/01/2015 20:42:49
324 forum posts
186 photos

Before wings were cut with the majority of the aileron as well, the 'old' method was to attached, say, 1/2" sheet to the trailing edge just with spots of glue to tack it in place. The ailerons were then planed and sanded to shape, the tacks released and the l/e sanded to a bevel for the hinge line. In some cases I used to add 1/8" square spruce to the edge of the 1/2" balsa before sanding so as to provide both a hard edge in the final aileron and a means to help prevent sanding too far.

Hope that helps.

Steve

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