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Brian Taylor Spitfire 69" - build only

Yes, sacrilege, no flying involved

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Danny Fenton01/02/2017 21:08:38
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8245 forum posts
3384 photos
Yep i agree with Gary that leading edge should be attached to the fus. And all the gaps filled with block to create the fairing.
Cheers
Danny
Gary Binnie01/02/2017 21:09:55
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483 forum posts
23 photos

In your last photo Nigel there are two dotted lines running across the fuselage just behind the rear exhaust stub, that is the fuselage leading edge piece.

I've just had a look at my pile of bits again and sent an e-mail to Unitracts to see if they would kindly reverse the side plates, with that fixed I might have a go at building another one.

Nigel Day02/02/2017 08:34:41
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Ah, thank you both, I'd missed that on the plan.

I'll revisit the plans and what I have so far.

simpson j02/02/2017 10:38:57
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189 forum posts
122 photos

Uni tracts at no more?m

Gary Binnie02/02/2017 11:40:52
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483 forum posts
23 photos

The website is still up but from reading threads on here it doesn't look promising.

I'm lucky in that the retract units just need hardwood spacers between the mounting lugs and the bearers (in theory!!).

Nigel Day15/02/2017 20:19:24
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

wp_20170215_17_57_45_pro.jpg

It's starting to look Spitfire-shaped now....

I still need to do a bit more filling and fine sanding but I'm nearly there.

wp_20170215_17_50_09_pro.jpg

I think I've sorted the fairing now.

Thanks to Danny & Gary I revisited the front of the fairings and made them curve downward a bit more. It did take a fair bit of faffing about but I'm nearly there. I still need to add a little stiffening right at the front ends of the fairing, where it meets the leading edge but by adding a little balsa to the wing leading edge as well I think it almost joins. Hopefully the stiffening will finish it off.

wp_20170215_17_52_46_pro.jpg

The cowl now fits quite snuggly too.

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The front and rear fixings are in place too so the wing will fit firmly into the bottom of the fuse.

On to the tail feathers and the cockpit.

John Timmis16/02/2017 11:55:46
179 forum posts
208 photos

That is looking really good Nigel.

Cheers John

Nigel Day17/02/2017 17:39:02
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Thanks John

McG 696917/02/2017 18:19:29
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1332 forum posts
595 photos

Great that you managed to 'fix' your wing fairing, Nigel.

Cheers

Chris

Nigel Day17/02/2017 18:27:38
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Thanks Chris.

It was due to the help and support I received on here. yes

Danny Fenton18/02/2017 00:20:06
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8245 forum posts
3384 photos

Looking good Nigel

Mannyroad18/02/2017 00:34:38
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169 forum posts
74 photos

Danny, I see you're burning the midnight oil too.

Colin Leighfield18/02/2017 06:32:17
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5061 forum posts
1881 photos

Great build Nigel.

Nigel Day18/02/2017 08:46:53
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Thanks Danny, Colin.

It's definitely a challenge working out how some of it goes together. I'm just getting my head around the cockpit and the canopy. I'm getting there but it's taking a lot of small steps, checking the plan, looking for suitable materials and round again.

Fun tho'. smiley

Nigel Day20/02/2017 20:06:54
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

The cockpit's coming together and proving quite interesting. I umm'd and ahh'd for a while about the best way to handle the canopy. It came, as they usually do I'm sure, as one moulded piece with a lot of flat perspex around the outside. It took me a while to envisage how it would sit on the fuse and how much I'd need to cut away.

wp_20170220_19_52_28_pro.jpg

I think I'll need to cut away a little more of the fuse as the front, fixed section of the canopy needs to finish a little lower than the front of the sliding section.

The next question was how to do the frames around the canopy sections? Luckily,following advice from Danny a good while ago, I'd purchased several sheets of litho - very thin aluminium sheets.

wp_20170220_19_52_39_pro.jpg

A thin strip of litho folded around the edge of the canopy section (dull side out) seems to work well. It takes a little bit of faffing to fold it right and to fit it but once clamped on it seems to look OK. It should be easy to paint too.

On to the front, fixed section which has much more edge - and to include the armoured front panel.

I'm just going upstairs. I may be some time........

Nev20/02/2017 21:29:52
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535 forum posts
190 photos

Looking good that Nigel.

Little bit at a time that’s the secrete and stop while you’re in front.

Nev.

Tim Cheal26/02/2017 20:15:59
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157 forum posts
40 photos

Hi Nigel

Apologies for being so quiet, but your build looks great to me!

I have got mine ready for flying, and one thing I was not quite ready for was how much weight I would need in the front to achieve the CofG recommended. I have put just over a lb of lead in the nose now, which means the flying weight has gone up form 101/2 lb to just about 12lb. Picture below:

spitfire 1

I know you are not going to fly yours, but the other thing that has caught me out is the tendency to tip on its nose during my initial taxi trials. The grass is really soggy at the moment, so I shan't panic until the ground has dried out a bit, but that puts the maiden back until spring I suspect.

If anybody 'watching' has any experience of the CofG of this BT Spifire Mk 1 I wood be really grateful, I am tempted to ease it back a bit, but don't want to do that until after a successful maiden!

Spitfire complete

I am pleased with the engine installation (pumped OS91FS with a Keleo exhaust) and the 3D printed exhausts that I sourced off the internet. But, it means the exhaust is from the actual exhaust pipes - I know, little things please little minds!! The prop is only a 13 inch and is now replaced with a 14 X 6, but I had some trouble initially getting the RPM to something decent so stepped down a bit. Hoping to use a 14 X 8 when all is said and done.

You can see I had to split the cowl across the middle horizontally to get it all set up, but that has not been an issue (so far!).

Cant wait to fly it, but patience is the name of the game.

Good luck with the rest of your build.

Tim

Nigel Day27/02/2017 07:57:20
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Thanks Tim.

Yours looks great and good luck with the test flight when the weather improves.

Don’t feel too bad about the CoG and a tendency to tip over. The real thing had the same problem. wink

Nigel Day27/02/2017 20:12:35
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1155 forum posts
213 photos

Tim, Garry,

If you're reading this, how did things fir together around rear of the tailplane where the fin joins the end of the fuse?

wp_20170227_19_47_06_pro.jpg

wp_20170227_19_47_18_pro.jpg

On the plan it looks as there's not enough clearance between the elevator hinge pin and the fin post, just behind it.

This is what I see on my model. The fin post fits into the rear of the fuse, a couple of cms beyond the end of the tailplane. The hinge pin can travel forward OK, between the sides of the fuse, but bangs up against the fin post. It looks as though I'll need to cut a slot for it but I can't see anywhere that this is what Brian T intended.

Is this another beginner's boo-boo?

Tim Cheal27/02/2017 21:05:49
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157 forum posts
40 photos

Hi Nigel

I do recall this problem, and in the end I angled the elevator hinge pin forward by about 45 degrees, as shown on the picture below which I have juts popped out and taken (I made my tail section removeable for access)

img_3862.jpg

[This should give me more up elevator than down due to the geometry].

I guess BT only needs 1/2 inch of up travel at the elevator, so he was content with it being limited by the fin post. Like the Chipmunk I found the space in the tail rae very limited which is partly why I made the tail section removeable.

I hope that helps, but like you I learnt a lot as I went along!

Tim

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