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Design & Build FW 200 Condor / Syndicato

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Robert Parker31/03/2017 18:53:09
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

Progress has slowed considerably this week as I have returned to work which after 3 months off has been a bit of a shock to the system. I have been back 4 days and I now feel totally shattered so much for light duties, thrown in at the deep end with an apprentice who actually managed to give my bad shoulder a good whack today, but of course were not allowed to do what I wanted to do to him nowadays so he had a good row which seemed to go in one ear and out the other without actually engaging the brain cell by the expression on his face.

I have done a little to the flaps although it was a case of one step forward two back. My original idea of connecting the two sections with a wire sleeved one side and fixed the other gave a very stiff operation so I have gone over to plan B, adding another servo to the outer section of the flap to each wing, which arrived today.

I hope to work on the Condor over the weekend, I'll keep you all posted

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker05/04/2017 20:54:02
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

I have been plodding along with the flaps I seem to have sorted them out. I have tried half of them and they seem to work OK.

I have skinned both of the outer panels plus fitted the wing tips, and have now got 4 servos working for the flaps. Although I have taken a slight side step with the flaps as I am a little cautious about them warping when I finish them. So I have applied sanding sealer to two of them and a coat of Ploy C which arrived yesterday and so far so good.

I have covered the rudder and elevators in Solartex but before doing that I pinned the hinges so they don't show through the covering.

dsc09655.jpg

Due to the leading edge of the rudder being so thin I have pinned behind it so as not to weaken it.

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All done.

dsc09656.jpg

Mock up of outer flap servo

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Making the additional flap servo hatch.

That's as far as I have progressed to date.

Once the flaps are sorted and warp free I'll sheet the centre section and attack the nacelles.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker27/04/2017 19:10:16
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

I have finally managed to grab some time on the Condor this last week now that Easter is over and the house painted.

The flaps were a bit of a pain to get right and in the end I cut one right out including the spar it was attached to, and started again, hinges don't like to work in an arc, I managed to built in a slight curve to the spar although not much of a curve once the hinges and flap was installed it would not work smoothly. So out it came and a new one made.

Once that was done I made all the push rods and tried them. connected to RX, switched on tried servos only two working, try again same. Traced it back to "Y" lead, which was not a regular "Y" but a "piggy back"style, I had managed to push the leads the wrong way round. Glad I held off the sheeting.

I can get all 4 flaps operating equally up to 70 degrees. I cannot find any reference on the throw of the full size flaps so I'm going to have to guess it and start off gently say 50 degrees at full flap.

Flaps sorted, I finished off the sheeting to the wings.

dsc09889.jpg

dsc09890.jpg

Next is pins out and lightly sand and then get stuck into the nacelles.

That's all for now regards

Robert

Erfolg27/04/2017 19:33:11
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10301 forum posts
937 photos

I am most impressed.

Being one who uses dress making pins, i have wondered is there a convenient non model shop source of the bead top type pins?

Brilliant build, what else can be said.

Robert Parker27/04/2017 19:47:45
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Thank you Erfolg,

The pins shown were a "gift" when I bought a kit on ebay some time ago, there were four packets of them in the kit box. They were made by Flair and are lasting well.

I have used map pins from W.H Smith's, these are good for joining sheet material also available are short pins, although the heads do come off after a couple of uses calling for a pair of pliers to remove the pin.

I try to keep an eye open for modelling resources in non model shops, ie cowls from Tesco's at 50p each with free shampoowink 2.

Regards

Robert

Simon Chaddock27/04/2017 20:52:18
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4853 forum posts
2493 photos

Robert

This is about the only picture I can find of a Condor with its flaps (fully?) down.

Difficult to judge but at least 50 degrees, maybe nearer 70.

Robert Parker29/04/2017 17:39:17
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Thanks Simon, it looks as if I'm not too far off the mark.

Hi All,

Started planking the nacelles today ran out of pins after one and a bit.

Photos to follow

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker01/05/2017 18:18:52
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

I have had a very productive bank holiday weekend. All nacelles planked and sanded, blocks gluing up for the back ends of the nacelles, tail cone block glued up and started soldering the connections of the ESC's until I ran out of solder.

dsc09891.jpg

It is surprising just how many pins get used up in planking reminds me of the half grape fruit wrapped in tin foil with the cheese and onion on cocktail sticks my mum used to do at parties many years ago.

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By this point I had just had about enough of planking

dsc09894.jpg

Finishing off the top side

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Pins out, dust mask on and out with the sandpaper

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Looking a bit like a Lancaster wing from this view of course you have to ignore the nacelles

dsc09897.jpg

I achieved the effect that I was after, a nipped in front end which will look even better with the cowls in place.

I also managed to have a tidy up as well, it was getting more than I could bear.

Next, It's time to shape the end blocks and tail cone by which time I will have got some more solder to carry on with the connections and cut out for the undercarriage and fix them in place.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker10/05/2017 23:18:34
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

A very quick update.

Entire airframe sealed with sanding sealer tonight and the "crew" have just arrived to see how things are progressing and will be keeping a watchful eye on the finishing, thanks to real model pilots.

Some photos to follow soon, once I've given them a coat of paint and briefing.

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker20/05/2017 11:55:16
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

May I introduce to you all Kurt and Hans, the pilot and co-pilot of the Condor.

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They look a little scary close up, and yes I have noticed that I have not finished off their caps as per photo.

condor crew.jpg

I came across this on the net of the record breaking flight from Berlin to New York and back August 13 1938.

All of the Poly C has now been applied and awaiting to be prepared for painting.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

Dwain Dibley.20/05/2017 13:32:41
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620 forum posts
622 photos

They have a touch of the "Nosferatu's" about them Robert.......winkcheeky i think it's the hands......

But they are looking the part, and will pilot the craft admirably.

Well done

D.D.

Robert Parker22/05/2017 21:12:10
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Thanks DD,

Yes the hands are a bit iffy but once the cockpit is in place all should be fine.

Hi All,

The preparation is almost done and a good finish has been attained from the Poly C on it's own and with a bit of filler here and there. I have fitted the closed loop for the rudder along with fitting all of the flying surfaces with pins and then applied two coats of primer filler which I have wet and dried this evening.

dsc00058.jpg

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The Condor is back to being almost wood colour, I've now got yellow jeans, still only need this coat where it's needed.

Next I'll check her over and apply any bits of filler if needed and sand back then it's on the with primer. All paints are from Halfords, the main colour will be from the Audi / VW range of course.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker06/06/2017 19:22:30
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

Just to keep you posted, I have finally got a finish to the undercoat, this took a lot longer than I thought, despite applying 7 coats of Poly C and sanding back and applying the primer filler sanding that back then applying 2 coats of grey undercoat and sanding those back then applying another coat and a light sanding and finally applying a top coat. I do regret not applying tissue as I could have saved a lot of work and elbow grease especially on the planked areas despite filling and sanding before any paint applied.

There are still a few areas that I'm not too happy with the finish but overall she looks good, and last weeks good weather certainly helped with the painting.

Last night I plotted out the secondary colour and will see how it looks actually wrapped around the fuselage, it's OK to draw in 2d but when set out the curves may look a little odd so I'm going to mark them out in soft pencil before committing to the design. I have also sketched out the decal positions and all seems well with the proportions so I'll drop Tim of Model Markings a line to see if he can do what I would like.

No photos for a while until the painting is complete

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker11/06/2017 18:51:13
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

A productive weekend with mixed results.

All of the motors, esc's and the tail wheel have been soldered with 5 connections on each of the ESC's alone that is a lot of soldering and motors mounted - that's the good news.

I connected the flaps and linkages and connected the rx and switched on at first all worked well then two of the four servos started working oddly, slow in operation and jittery. Now all worked before covering, the linkages are free and the hinges are not bound. I may change all four servos to a brand I trust and know.

Then onto the retracts, again both worked well before covering. Today I tried them and both did then 1 stopped halfway. Having tried a few times with no movement just a buzzing noise. I removed the retract unit and plugged it directly into the rx again nothing. So I tried assisting the retract but nothing. So I stripped it down as far as it would go and all I had in my hand was the motor in my hand and tried it again. Nothing happened. I unplugged it and got out the pliers and rotated the screw thread and it moved along with the gears inside. Plugged it back in as it was and it worked. Result - no. After re-assembly plugged it back in switched on and it worked once each way then nothing. Took it apart again and it worked. The threaded pin which activates the cam is free on the thread, the cam is free in the slot . Yet when I assemble it, it only works once.

Anyone else experienced this problem with E-Flight retracts. I bought them new but cannot remember who from.

Regards

Robert

Erfolg11/06/2017 20:44:11
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10301 forum posts
937 photos

I have had similar issues in the past with HK units. In my case, i flipped the switch whist part way through either a retract or deployment. Since then i was advised, that what i was doing was asking for trouble. i should have completed a cycle.

I replaced the unit that was causing a problem (although I purchased a pair), since then I have not had a issue. possibly for two reasons, the first is the units have not been used much, the second, I heeded the advice (which may be or maybe not valid).

Robert Parker15/06/2017 19:43:02
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

I'm going to give you a sneak peak.

I treated myself to a new camera and wanted to try it out, so with crew seated

dsc00029.jpg

Had a little paint bleed here and there which is a little disappointing

dsc00030.jpg

I have replaced both undercarriage units and intend to re-make the u/c legs.

All motors fitted and have been test run

Used a 2.4 receiver and tried flaps they are all over the place, operating at slightly different times. I tried using the flight pack instead of an rx pack but still the same.

Aileron servos work great will have to tone them down a lot or she'll be snap rolls!!!!

Elevator and rudder working correctly.

Just have to make the three remaining cowls new u/c blocks and pins, weather it a bit and add the decals when they arrive and I think we are nearly there.

Regards

Robert

Dwain Dibley.15/06/2017 20:20:09
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620 forum posts
622 photos

I think that looks great Robert, Well Done.

Out of interest, how have you got the flaps wired up, what channel etc. Assuming a Y lead, not a mix....?? could it be a sloppy servo, bad centering servo ??

D.D.

Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 15/06/2017 20:22:22

Erfolg15/06/2017 20:28:07
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10301 forum posts
937 photos

Yes, the model does really look good. Also a change to see a civilian version, of any model where most associate the type with the military.

Robert Parker15/06/2017 21:06:00
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Thanks both,

D.D, flaps wired to flap channel no mixing and they are rock solid.

The really odd thing is that they all worked together before covering, sorry Poly C and paint, servos were in place during this process. All centred right, I worked on each individually checked then connected to "Y" lead. If rx turned off then back on again they still do the same thing but in a different order, they all reach max / min travel but get there eventually sometimes.

The servos are Turnigy 113 MG digital, however, when the ailerons are unplugged they still behave the same. Aileron servos are Corona DS 329 MG Digital

Y leads are from HK and are the under / over type connecting the inner and outer flaps while a conventional "Y" lead connects these to the RX

Incidentally, when I was installing / initial setting I used a 35mhz RX, I find it easier. Then go over to 2.4 at the end of the build. I tried the 35mhz rx and they behaved the same. Perhaps I could try to do a video and upload to show, (never done this before).

Erfolg, Yes, I fancied a change from my recent / future run of bombers. As I looked into the subject it drew me in, I have based mine on the 1938 record breaking non stop trans-atlantic flight from Berlin to New York. Apart from that less canopies to make.

Regards

Robert

Robert Parker19/06/2017 18:11:10
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588 forum posts
835 photos

Hi All,

I did a bit more on Saturday and re-made the u/c leg blocks with grub screws and used cut down legs with the springs reversed to allow the legs to be retracted and they do.

dsc00032.jpg

I'm happier with these and using the springs from the legs I hope will provide a bit of "give" on landing following my previous models although I have gained 5mm in height, the plane not me.

I also did a little weathering, not too much but just enough to give that used look.

Now the flap saga continues. I plugged in just the flaps to an old 35MHz receiver with a RX battery back with no other functions connected and they worked not 100% but they worked all together.

Alas time ran out on me and I had to do other things, and of course yesterday was father's day where I have to do the family thing and to be honest it was a bit hot to be inside.

Next with the flaps I'm going to try adding different servos to the 35MHz RX and work logically, much easier then with 2.4. I had something similar happen with the Stirling which turned out to be a dodgy servo lead.

That's all for now

Regards

Robert

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