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Electrifying A Junior 60

A Cheapskate Needs Your Help.

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Mike Etheridge 107/01/2018 16:42:56
1360 forum posts
380 photos

I do have a complete plan of the KK / Flair 1955 junior 60 and a plan of the Ben Buckle 1946 Junior 60 fuselage. if you have any problems with the computerised copies from Mc G 6969, I can get plan copies made if required David?

Mike T07/01/2018 16:43:30
288 forum posts
22 photos

I'd use meths to degrease, it will dissolve the methanol and oil better than petrol and certainly wont stink as much!

A tip I got many years ago was to mix a paste of meths and talcum powder, then slather it on the fuel soaked parts. The idea is that the meths dissolves the oil and draws it into the talc as it evaporates. After a day or so, the talc will be full of oil and you scrape it off and clean up with meths. Repeat as necessary. I've done this a few times and it does work. However on a badly rotted airframe, you are probably better off putting in new wood!

kc07/01/2018 17:02:37
5330 forum posts
159 photos

You just plug a memory stick into a USB socket of your computer, note what drive name it is given and then when you open the file from Outerzone etc and select to save the file onto the drive of the same name as the memory stick.( likely to be drive E if the computer has only 1 hard disc and a DVD drive)

David Davis10/01/2018 09:19:22
2754 forum posts
460 photos

I got the plan printed yesterday and it was nice to be re-acquainted with it, even if it's not quite the same plan that came with the Flair kit. It's a single channel plan but the fuselage is much the same. It cost me less than 15€ to have the Junior 60 plan, a much larger 40 sized pattern ship plan and a copy of the old Balsacraft Blenheim plan printed. 15€ is the equivalent of £13.26 Sterling or $17.92 US. I thought that that was pretty reasonable.

I have built a box for the battery and will have to extend the lower nose blocks by 1/4"-1/2" (6-12mm) in order to hide the battery box. The alternative would have been to use 2300mAh LiPos instead of the 3300 mAh Lipos I intend to use to give extended flying times. My aim here is not to reproduce an original Junior 60 but to use the model as a basic trainer capable of twenty minute flight times. It may end up looking like one of those Merlin engined Bf 109s! I could cut a hole in the rear former and push the box further to the rear but I encased the rear undercarriage legs in a sandwich of three pieces of plywood and it would be difficult to remove the sandwich without damaging any thing. Besides I need as much nose weight as I can get. I'll post some pictures as soon as the nose structure is complete.

I plan to bolt the motor to a piece of 3mm ply which will itself be firmly glued to the balsa nose blocks. I am undecided whether to incorporate side thrust and down thrust as this could be adjusted with washers. What do the cogoscenti think?

Finally I'm going to re-cover the tail surfaces in Orange Solartex to match the wing. I realise that a "Vintage" colour would look better by showing off the structure of the model but the wing is already covered in "solid" orange and I have no intention of stripping away perfectly sound covering and replacing it with something prettier. I have plenty of Orange Solartex in stock but I've also got sufficient black or dark blue to cover the fuselage. Orange is a highly visible colour of course which is why life-rafts are orange, but would a different coloured fuselage aid orientation?

David Davis16/01/2018 11:33:27
2754 forum posts
460 photos

My Bull-Nosed Junior 60!

I've built the battery box, and added the nose blocks and motor mounting plate. Further sanding will be required on the nose section and I still need to build the undercarriage and fit an undercarriage plate, but I'm getting there. The propeller is an 11x4 Airflow wooden propeller and is fitted just for show. I have an analogue ammeter and I intend to solder XT 60 terminals to it to check current consumption.

I have also tidied the bench a bit! Note the club trainers and sports models in the background.

junior 60 nose (1).jpg

junior 60 nose (2).jpg

David Davis19/01/2018 05:45:32
2754 forum posts
460 photos

Soldering has never been my strong point, perhaps that's why I've never really taken to electric power but over the last few days I've had to alter the terminals on the ammeter to take XT60 connectors and to put XT 60s on a couple of batteries I had skulling about. I had always been advised not to twist the bare ends of exposed wires together because oil from your finger tips could contaminate the wires and make soldering difficult. I hit on an answer to this. Use a piece of spare insulation, wrap that round the exposed end, then twist the wires together. Having had to solder up a total of four connectors, two on LiPos and two on the ammeter, my soldering skills have come on apace!

I spent a merry half hour yesterday testing the current consumption of the motor while using different propellers. With an i/c wooden 11x4 it drew 25 amps, with an electric 11x5.5 it drew about 28 amps and with a 12x6 it drew over 35 amps at full power. I even fitted a 10x6 electric three blader to it for a laugh, that drew 35 amps too! The photo shows the J60 carcass clamped to my Workmate and the motor throttled back a bit.

Unfortunately my hithertoo very reliable charger, a Vislero A6, now refuses to recognise a LiPo!

twisting wires.jpg

test rig.jpg

test rig reverse.jpg

propeller testing.jpg

Geoff Sleath19/01/2018 11:51:48
2265 forum posts
165 photos

I've been twisting wires together for soldering for something like 65 years and never had a problem with the wire not tinning properly. Perhaps, like I was told my mother had, I have dry skin but everyone does it without problems AFAIK.

Analogue meters are fine (in fact I have an unused one still in its box like yours) but so-called Watt meters are better because they measure and display both current and voltage. Plus some, like the HK one I use regularly, also check LiPo cell states and they're much cheaper than the Astroflight one I bought years ago. From your experiments with current draw, I'd use the 12x6 prop (in my personal experience a 12x6 seems to be the prop of choice very often!)

There's something odd about your charger problems. The easiest way to solve it is to try your LiPo on a known working charger, preferably one that can measure internal resistance (IR). If the IR/cell is significantly > 10 milliohms then the battery is toast. Then to check your charger try it with a known good LiPo.


David Davis19/01/2018 12:22:02
2754 forum posts
460 photos

I've tried four different LiPos on the charger Geoff with the same result.

Geoff Sleath19/01/2018 12:45:57
2265 forum posts
165 photos

Then perhaps it's time to invest in a new charger, David. You're unfortunate because in my experience the ones I've had have been fine for years of regular use - probably not a good thing to write

I'm not familiar with the Vislero chargers at all. I have an old charger which does cope with LiPos but has no balance feature (Constellation or something, can't remember) but I never use it now even though it still works as well as it ever did. I have a Graupner Ultramat 16 I've had a while and used (and still use) a lot without problems but my favourite is an iCharger 308 Duo which was expensive but excellent. I can recommend them both.


David Davis19/01/2018 12:49:22
2754 forum posts
460 photos

Mine must be at least nine years old so it doesn't really owe me anything.

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