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Anet A8

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Martin Harris19/05/2017 16:09:59
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

I'm a happy bunny - test print worked fine although I think I selected the wrong filament type as the nozzle temperature went up to 220 from 190 which I'd originally selected after nothing happened when I followed some video instructions - found a menu which seemed to be for various filament types and selected one - whereupon it burst into life...

Now all I've got to do is work out how to use it in anger...and remove the print from the bed tape. Is there any reason why people don't simply remove/replace the masking tape between each print?

Tony Bennett19/05/2017 17:55:56
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4716 forum posts
125 photos

get some blue squares from Hobby King. £5.00 for 20 sheets, lasts forever.

your bed height might be a tad to high if the print is sticking too well.

Tony B

Geoff Gardiner19/05/2017 18:11:28
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211 forum posts
376 photos

I quickly got fed up using the tape and got a Velleman Buildtak 3D Print Bed Surface from Maplin.

**LINK**

It works really well.

Martin Harris19/05/2017 19:53:47
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

Thanks - lots to learn!

Robin Etherton23/05/2017 15:16:00
198 forum posts
17 photos

Martin, have now started to put the beast together.

No issues with the screw alignment, can wind the head up and down very easily by turning the motors by hand.

I had to put longer screws to hold the z belt as the belt would not line up with the ones specified and began to bind at the left and right extremities.

Apart from this I had to shim up one of the bed bearing blocks to get the bed sliding back and forth easily. It did tighten up somewhat when I attached the x belt but can still be moved by hand so I am assuming it will be ok?

Nearly finished, but in no hurry. Like you am fitting a mosfet to be on the safe side.

Robin

Martin Harris23/05/2017 21:41:40
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

I'm not sure which longer screws you are referring to on the Z belt, Robin? As I understand it, the Z axis is the one operated by the twin leadscrews...but I didn't find any problems with any of the screw lengths. There again, I didn't realise that there was a manual on the SD card and worked from a manual on the net and the videos I linked to earlier...blush

Robin Etherton24/05/2017 07:54:47
198 forum posts
17 photos

Ok, whatever it's called it's the belt which runs horizontally across the machine. The ends of the belt are folded round two screws and then zip tied. I found that when sliding the carriage to the extreme right or left the side of the belt was fouling the white bits which house the end rollers. Two longer screws enabled the belt to slide over slightly and line up properly so that the top and bottom of the belt were parallel.

Robin

Robin Etherton24/05/2017 12:40:31
198 forum posts
17 photos

Whilst on the subject of belts I had the other one installed as per build instructions and although the bed is moving freely the two sides of the belt were not parallel. Having found out that the build video installs the aluminium "H" plate upside down I put this right which improved matters slightly. Using an extra pair of clamps provided( they dont seem to be used elsewhere) put things right. Must be good for the motor drive.

Fortunately the internet is alive with blogs on this printer. It must be the best selling gadget out there.

Robin

Martin Harris24/05/2017 12:48:24
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

I see what you mean now - looking down on my belt shows a slight misalignment (maybe 1/16" at the middle?) but I haven't noticed any binding at the extremities or effect on operation. It might be worth correcting though - good spot!

My Y axis H crosspiece is uppermost and the belt seems to be properly aligned.

Robin Etherton24/05/2017 15:08:00
198 forum posts
17 photos

There must be subtle differences in the various editions. Nearly finished now but too hot inside and its a shame to waste the good weather.

Incredible at the differences in belt alignment between various builds! Even with the h piece facing down I still needed the additional spacer to get it in line.

As long as it works when its finished!

Martin Harris24/05/2017 19:49:56
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

Fingers crossed - sounds like you're doing a thorough job...

I've no experience of CAD but I've messed around with a free program called Tinkercad which seems quite intuitive - as an exercise (and in preparation for a useful and more accurate part for my current build) I've knocked out a Tempest(ish) exhaust stub quite easily. I used Cura for the slicing...

Still very much at the learning stage - there seems to be a minimum size that is practical - my first (very small scale) six stub manifold was a disaster but a single stub at slightly larger than model scale seems quite acceptable...

20170524_180145.jpg

Robin Etherton24/05/2017 20:16:11
198 forum posts
17 photos

I have just about finished now but don't have the courage to switch on tonight.

Best sleep on it and give it one more check tomorrow.

Martin Harris26/05/2017 12:56:21
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6862 forum posts
169 photos

Posted by Robin Etherton on 24/05/2017 15:08:00:

Incredible at the differences in belt alignment between various builds! Even with the h piece facing down I still needed the additional spacer to get it in line.

Just a thought Robin - could your X and Y steppers have been incorrectly marked? They come pre-assembled with the belt pulleys and the only obvious difference between them is that the pulleys are reversed.

Edited By Martin Harris on 26/05/2017 13:02:31

Robin Etherton26/05/2017 18:25:53
198 forum posts
17 photos

I don't think so but worth checking.

On another tack I switched on yesterday and although everything worked as it should concerning the set up of the nozzle and stops as soon as I attempted a print . Nothing.

Seems I was tring to print a stl file rather than gcode.?

Its all greek to me. Having another try tonight.

The anet a8 support group have been very helpful.

Robin

john kennedy 426/05/2017 19:05:53
15 forum posts

Ordered mine on 21st..Can't wait.

Robin Etherton26/05/2017 20:19:35
198 forum posts
17 photos

At last it is at this moment printing a test gcode file.

God knows what it is , it looks like a flat rectangular thing?

The bed is juddering a bit on the return so I will need to have another go at lining up the bearings and adjusting the belt tension.

Apparently the ingus( igus? Ignus?) bearings I bought thinking I was being smart are not as forgiving as the originals which come with the machine. They are quiet though and swmbo is quite happy having it working in the house.

Just to repeat the guys on the facebook support group are really helpful.

This is going to be a great toy, I hope.

Robin

Simon Chaddock26/05/2017 21:15:22
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4874 forum posts
2511 photos

Robin

Any "juddering" does not sound right.

The print head "prints" as the bed moves in either direction so any hesitation will show in the finished print quality.

The bearings should be quiet. By far the greatest noise comes from the stepper motors which can create a noticeable "tune" when printing circles or ellipses. wink 2

Geoff Gardiner27/05/2017 10:22:47
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211 forum posts
376 photos

It's good to see so many people getting an Anet A8 - I'm loving mine!

I have just got one of these:

dsc00408.jpg

It's an inductive proximity sensory for auto bed leveling. It was only £2 and is rated at 5v so should be plug and play.

For that money it would be rude not to get one!

I have printed this so that I can fit it just behind the fan:

dsc00417.jpg

The next job is to update the firmware with Skynet so that I can get it to work.

I have downloaded the software from their facebook site. They use an Arduino IDE emulator to perform the firmware update. Trouble is, it is for PC and I have a Mac. I can borrow a PC but I like a challenge so will try and figure out how to do it with a Mac.

dsc00401.jpg

Geoff Gardiner01/06/2017 09:12:12
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211 forum posts
376 photos

I have got my firmware updated and my sensor is up and running. I have made a couple of test prints and....WOW.

It was definitely worth doing. I almost got there with the Mac. The problem I had was with the serial driver - I could only find one that I had to pay for. So, ever the skinflint, I used a PC to do the upgrade.

img_3952.jpg

MaL01/06/2017 11:13:07
43 forum posts

I'm curious Geoff, how does the proximity sensor make such a difference?

I would understand it on a delta printer as all three stepper motors have to turn as the head traverses the plate so the electronics can compensate for height variances 'on the fly', but on a cartesian printer the z axis only moves at layer change. also because the electronics have to calculate each and every head movement any inaccuracies in the mechanical build will create errors - which don't occur with 3 discrete axes. I assume the printer now does a mesh levelling probe before each print now? Does your z height now move between layer changes with the sensor?

Once you have levelled the plate against the x and y axis height adjustment is quite simple to achieve the required first layer height within the flatness of the plate. If your plate is more than10 microns or so out of true flat then you are going to have problems with or without a proximity sensor

I do have a delta printer, along with a couple of cartesians, the delta needs some form of height sensor (in my case it is a piezo sensor), but in my experience the cartesians, once set up (I use a dial gauge in a printed holder), are no bother getting the first layer right

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