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Devcon119/06/2017 18:31:53
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994 forum posts
337 photos

Small multimeter.

Prop balancer.

1 metre rule.

A collection of some type of weights, engineering blocks etc.

Kevin Fairgrieve19/06/2017 19:20:21
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1428 forum posts
2677 photos

Have a look at this album.

Tools.

Shows some of my tools.

Not all but you get the idea.

kev

Andy G.20/06/2017 07:27:12
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261 forum posts
127 photos

And..... a four pound lump hammer for when it all goes horribly wrong!!!

bouncebounce crunch20/06/2017 07:44:46
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1683 forum posts
203 photos

Well I am sick of it! I have many tools that i need to do odd jobs from metal taps to balsa bashing but the most I have used is sharps=knives, saws and other shaving blades following clamps and always seem to be short a clamp or two, T pins, Metal rules, sanders from paddle pop sticks with paper grits glued on up to larger blocks and rounds.

my work is slow and sloppy too, I have a 6 or seven year on off relationship with my models for some reason. I certainly can't blame my tools though.

bbc

John Stainforth20/06/2017 10:47:10
68 forum posts
30 photos

Looking at my workbench, by far the most useful and most used items are:

Glass table top workbench

Swann Morton knives

Cutting mat

Straight edges for cutting

Stacks of masking tape

Many clamps of various sizes, elastic bands

Razor saw and cutting frame

Permagrit blocks (ca 6" and 12" - v v worthwhile

Handdrill

Dremel-type tool and *safety googles* (never use without)

Decent set of Allen keys - long screwdriver type (i.e., with handles) with ball ends are by far the most useful for modeling

Decent set of Philips screwdrivers (German makes seem to be the best)

Other screwdrivers, needle-nosed plyers

CA from Poundstore - 4 x 7g bottles for one pound!

Aliphatic resin

Slow setting epoxy resin

Set squares

kc20/06/2017 12:44:06
5043 forum posts
153 photos

You don't need many tools for aermodelling but having the right tool is satisfying. One very handy thing is a size 0 ( zero) posidrive screwdriver which fits servo screws etc - difficult to find but Draper make one and it's about 1 pound at Toolstation........Robert Dyas also sell them but .maybe more expensive.

if you are just starting then try to make your screwdrivers of different makes or colours - a set of screwdrivers all the same colour is hopeless because you cannot tell the right one by the handle!

A very handy but more difficult tool to find is a 'pearl catcher ' or 'pick up tool' - they just grip a small screw such as a servo screw enough to start in the pre drilled hole. Magic! Proops sell them and so do Maplin. At the January Alexandra Palace model show another dealer was selling the slightly nicer metal version at about 2 pounds so look around at the tool stands if you are going to Wings & Wheels this weekend

Nigel R20/06/2017 14:55:22
332 forum posts
95 photos

also on fleabay **LINK**

Ikura20/06/2017 15:41:47
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18 forum posts

Sanding blocks, straight edges, razor saws, scalpels and a range of blades, J-B Weld (amazing stuff) white wood glue, cyano, UHU Poor (for foam models) model pins, clamps, small engineers squares, small flat and cross head screwdrivers.

Unfortunately the list goes on and on and it's amazing how much model building 'clutter' you build up over time.

The best tool of all in my humble opinion is a Hegner scroll saw. A truly wonderful thing that will cut just about anything and any shape with the correct blade, but it is expensive.

Tony Kenny21/06/2017 15:54:50
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38 forum posts
4 photos

Wow! You guys never fail to deliver! There were some real gems in there like building on a board that I can move off the workbench whilst a part dries and work on something else.

I'll read all the posts again and start with some basics.

For a jig, would I get away with a strong board and nailing some bits of wood in place along with clamps?

kinda spent out recently, between the wife, kids and HMRC, I need to hold off a little

Ikura21/06/2017 16:01:28
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18 forum posts
Posted by Tony Kenny on 21/06/2017 15:54:50:

Wow! You guys never fail to deliver! There were some real gems in there like building on a board that I can move off the workbench whilst a part dries and work on something else.

I'll read all the posts again and start with some basics.

For a jig, would I get away with a strong board and nailing some bits of wood in place along with clamps?

kinda spent out recently, between the wife, kids and HMRC, I need to hold off a little

Hi Tony,

Small wooden blocks that can be pinned or screwed down on the base board are a very effective way to create a jig to ensure straight fuselage sides and also the blocks are a great way of spacing wing ribs out equally.

I prefer to use scrap bits of balsa pinned either side of fuselage longerons and wing spars rather than pinning through the component wood. I also have a selection of purpose made wood blocks for model building and find them extremely useful.

Go for it.

John Stainforth21/06/2017 16:04:44
68 forum posts
30 photos

For jigs, tailor-made balsa braces and templates glued straight on to a glass work top with CA - a la Dave Platt - are quick to rig up, accurate, and easy to remove. Much better than commercially available jigs IMHO.

kc21/06/2017 16:57:40
5043 forum posts
153 photos

On other threads on the forum there are details of using plasterboard as a building board. This takes pins nicely and also i have shown pictures of some little clips using screws into the plasterboard to hold down wing spars. Cheap enough but you might find builders scrap pieces of about 4ft by 18 inhes that would be just right. Must be absolutely flat whatever building board you use!

Nigel R21/06/2017 17:40:42
332 forum posts
95 photos

"For a jig, would I get away with a strong board and nailing some bits of wood in place along with clamps?"

I've seen plans call for a small length of 1/4sq HW to be nailed/pinned/screwed to the board, at each former position, along the outside line of the fuselage. This pretty much works like a jig - providing the fuselage has a flat top (or flat bottom), and you have perfectly square formers.

My board & jig are from 4' x 2' pieces of 18mm MDF, cut down to 18" and 12" width respectively. Underneath I made a torsion box type layout of 4" wide strips, cut from the edge of the MDF boards, which I just screwed to the MDF top piece. The "flatness" can be adjusted if it goes out of true, by redoing the screws. They're heavy, but they can be moved around if needed. I use a piece of plasterboard just laid on top of the board for anything that needs stuff pinning down. The jig is a jig and doesn't need any pins!

Without the strips underneath, a flat board can easily develop warps.

Stevo22/06/2017 11:34:38
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2400 forum posts
634 photos
Yes.. plasterboard!! As said before, keep it flat.

When it starts to look worn, sand it down and use filler for any dents. Then using wall paper paste, paste on some 1000 lining paper over the top and let dry. Hey presto... new top!
David P Williams22/06/2017 12:53:53
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627 forum posts
241 photos

One of my best buys was a pair (small and large) of "Japanese Philips" screwdrivers made by Tamiya. Lots of the screws on stuff of Eastern origin is not Pozi, and not quite "normal" Philips, and these drivers fit perfectly.

p.s. just checked, they're JIS screwdrivers

Edited By David P Williams on 22/06/2017 12:56:45

Rob Ashley22/06/2017 15:23:24
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55 forum posts
2 photos

I'n not the only one then ?Plasterboard and MDF yes?

Rob

Rob Ashley22/06/2017 15:24:09
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55 forum posts
2 photos

Plasterboard is easier on the thumbs but you can pin into MDF too.

Ikura22/06/2017 15:28:52
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18 forum posts

Plasterboard is definitely easier to pin into and it's a cheap as chips.

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