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Flite (sic) Test paper and card model - hints?

Has anyone any experience of these?

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Plummet14/11/2017 18:25:43
1319 forum posts
40 photos

On a whim I am now the owner of a FliteTest kit (From Leeds Model Shop.)


It is the Mini-Sportster.

It is a "different" construction method. The parts are mostly pieces cut from foam filled card. It looks like depron sheet covered in brown paper. It looks as if they are being sold via Graupner.

Does anyone have any experience with these.

The kits have no manual, but a video build is available on the web.

The only glue used on the viseo is hot-glue. My experience of using hot-glue is that it works quite well at gluing things, but not necessarily the things that were meant to be glued. I seem to end up with glue strings decorating the workplace. With large joins, I find that the glue may well have gone cold before I am ready to commit the joint.

Would PVA or Aliphatic glue be suitable?

Any hints?


John Lee14/11/2017 18:50:51
433 forum posts
31 photos

I've a Mini-Sportster sat on my desk next to the computer.

When visiting an old Club-mate in Canada a couple of years ago I helped him assemble one of the FliteTest models in his den. He had the instructional video (specific videos are available for all the models) on an iPad next to the bench & we paused and ran it forward & backwards as we assembled the model, which only took an hour or two.

At the local fly-in the following weekend I won a Mini-Sportster in a raffle and I followed the same procedure when I brought it home.

The FliteTest models are very popular over the Pond and are well proven, as is the recommended hot glue assembly. I'd recommend that you just follow the video, no need for any modifications or alternates, perhaps just practice a bit on some scraps of the foam board to get proficient with the hot glue technique.

Denis Watkins14/11/2017 18:54:00
2043 forum posts
104 photos

Hot glue is very heavy Plummet, but quick

Aliphatic and PVA will need drying time of course, and bracing/pinning will be necessary

Cyano is quick but should be done in good ventilation, and is more brittle than the other glues

McG 696914/11/2017 19:16:16
1615 forum posts
714 photos

If am allowed a 2 € cent?

I'll second Dennis with hot glue not only being heavy but it's a very 'poor sticking method' as well.

But then the FliteTest boys are in love with it as it is 'quick' and their foamies are supposed to be 'consumables' anyway.

Cyano is quite 'poor' on foam as well as it becomes too 'hard'.

As quoted, Aliphatic (PVA) is better but takes a longer time to set hence the pinning needed.

You could use Superphatic (by Deluxe) which is what I would do; it needs some setting time as well but a lot less than PVA.



Plummet14/11/2017 20:04:35
1319 forum posts
40 photos

Ta folks,

I now have an offcut glued and setting to see how it sets.


Alan H15/11/2017 00:22:24
7 forum posts

A friend of mine has a lot of experience of FliteTest models having made two, the Kraken and the flying boat. He made both exactly as recommended and they have had many flights and a few mishaps and are still going strong. My recommendation is to make them exactly as per the videos.

trebor15/11/2017 00:45:08
1257 forum posts
151 photos

My favourite is uhu por yes

Andy G.15/11/2017 08:47:01
321 forum posts
179 photos

I've built several foamboard models, although not flite test ones, but have learnt a lot from their videos. One of the main points is that you really need a BIG hot glue gun, particularly for the bigger joints otherwise it's set at one end before you finish applying the glue. How to avoid the dreaded glue strings? Well that's a nack I haven't acquired yet! One thing I have learnt is........ Don't smooth the glue joints down with your finger, it HURTS!!!!

John Lee15/11/2017 10:50:34
433 forum posts
31 photos

Well I used a small, 25 year old, Bostik 13watt glue gun with no trouble on the Mini-Sportster! Mark in Canada used one of the HobbyKing guns that plug into a 3S LiPo which again was entirely adequate.

Just use a small off-cut of foam board where you need to smooth the joint.

Andy4815/11/2017 18:38:24
1144 forum posts
65 photos

My glue gun is pretty useless. I suspect the problem is the wattage and the temperature it reaches. There will be less stringing the hotter the gun gets.It also leaks constantly.


Edited By Andy48 on 15/11/2017 18:40:18

John Lee15/11/2017 20:13:02
433 forum posts
31 photos

It may be pertinent that the Bostik & HobbyKing Glue guns both use 7mm diameter glue sticks as opposed to 11mm often used in other makes. The smaller diameter requires less heat to melt (it has just over a third of the cross sectional area) & I would guess reaches a more even temperature than the thick ones & would therefore be less likely to string.

Plummet16/11/2017 10:41:14
1319 forum posts
40 photos

Well, I have tried a couple of joints with scrap material, one with PVA and one with aliphatic.

Testing both I think that the aliphatic is the better, but both do not stick well to the waterproofed paper on the board.

Reading up about it I note that they recommend lightly sanding the paper before painting. I will try again, doing this, when I have free time.


Paul Blakeborough16/11/2017 12:17:27
19 forum posts
24 photos

My effort... Glue gun and Por... Acrylic spray paint.img_3763.jpg

Richard Wills 216/11/2017 12:50:01
102 forum posts
7 photos

I have built the Mustang, Storch, Racer, Viggen and Spitfire. From plans and using the heavier backed foam board available over here. All fly extremely well, the Mustang being my favourite. In my opinion the heavier board makes them fly better, and so does the extra weight from the many repairs I have done, and the Mustang cost me less than £60, painted and inc all electronics, has now been around for 3 years and a few hundred flights. I love it.

I use a Bosch glue gun which gets HOT. Makes it much easier. I have also found that there seems to be 2 tyrpes of glue stick. The common milky white which tends to be pretty hard, and the almost clear more rubbery colour which are more rubbery and make far better joints.

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