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Building Jim Newberrys Puddleduck

From the free plan in RCM&E Jan 2018

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Dwain Dibley.02/03/2018 20:25:37
867 forum posts
852 photos

Dave........Very Close matey....surprise

Bit more........ made the front former F1, and the motor mount F2, the motor mount is 3mm ply, I normally make them a bit thicker, but I reckon Jim knows his stuff, and it is a floater for calm days. The front former is half inch balsa. Both made from stuff from the scrap bin....laugh

The rest of the formers are made from 1/2 X 1/8, and are dead simple to make. I pinned the up rights and made the tops and bottoms oversize. CA was the adhesive and then I trimmed the overhangs. That way you are sure they are square.




Dave Hopkin02/03/2018 20:51:04
3650 forum posts
293 photos
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 02/03/2018 16:38:50:

Funnily enough I've been looking at one of those XT60 surface mount units just about an hour ago and can't decide how it's supposed to work. Do you just glue the connector in? Because there doesn't seem to be any positive mechanical fixing and a fair bit of force is needed both to connect and disconnect XT60s.

Good idea to fit the plug to a motor connection, Dave. I'll have a think about that because one of the advantages will be that you aren't going to be flexing the connection every time you replace the main battery. I've never bothered with an arming plug before because all the conversions I've done before have easy and quick access to the battery through a top hatch.

I'm intending to fit one to the Moth as the battery hatch is less accessible than on my other conversions as it's on the bottom. (I'm just making a hatch).


I prefer to use bullets as an arming plug - on this model the motor, esc and battery slide out through the cowl in one lump, so the arming plug had to be in a small hatch on the underside where the motor tray retaining bolts fit.

arming plug.jpg

Dwain Dibley.02/03/2018 20:56:14
867 forum posts
852 photos

So is that in one of the motor to ESC leads dood ?


Geoff Sleath03/03/2018 11:43:11
2348 forum posts
175 photos
Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 02/03/2018 16:50:10:

Good idea Dave. thumbs up

Geoff, the connector sits in the black plastic shroud, and is held in with 2 grub screws one each side.

I may add epoxy too, belt and braces.


I bought 2 of these surface-mount XT60 connectors last year some time and never used either. Only one of them includes the grub screws and it wasn't the one I was examining yesterday. I've either lost them or they were left out. I guess they just 2mm ones so not a problem to replace and I'll be using glue as well just to make sure.

Probably a good idea to do all the soldering before putting the connector into what I guess is a thermo-plastic holder that could distort with heat.


Dwain Dibley.03/03/2018 19:32:31
867 forum posts
852 photos

Hi Geoff, yeah, do all the soldering as the surrounds can get a bit squiffy with heat, as can the XT60's. I always put a male and a female together when soldering, which keeps them in shape.

Today I cut out the recesses for the ply undercarriage plates, having made them from laminating two lengths of 3mm ply, again from the scrap box.


A test fit of the ply bearers.


The next job was to glue in the first four formers. I use some old batteries as they are nice and heavy and dead square.


I marked out the position of the motor mount. It has 5 deg down an 1.5 deg right thrust built in.


A test fit of the other side, nice and square....the batteries don't lie...



With the motor mount dry fitted.


A little set of parts, last two rear formers 7 & 8, F1, F2, ply U/C bearers, and two 1.5 mm ply Doublers for where the wing band dowels go.


Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 03/03/2018 19:42:29

Geoff Sleath03/03/2018 20:39:55
2348 forum posts
175 photos

Nice work, Dwain.

Those formers remind me of someone ... I know - Wallace Always liked a nice piece of Wensleydale.


McG 696903/03/2018 20:52:14
1905 forum posts
811 photos

Hi Dwain,

Very neat progress regarding the Duck. yes

I'm about to do the same with my Vicomte fuselage, so I'm taking some lessons here. I'm afraid I will shamelessly take over/copy your advises. angel



onetenor03/03/2018 21:57:46
1531 forum posts
Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 01/03/2018 16:03:59:
Posted by McG 6969 on 01/03/2018 07:39:22:

Hi Dwain,

@ Onetenor > IMHO 'tlar' just means "too late, all right" and the 'stripper' mostly works at night... but then, English isn't my native language. blush



Thanks @Stu @Chris Tee Hee mate how long did it take to think that one up. Both of 'em in fact. Wish my French ran to jokes Chris.devil

@ DD is it a Great Lakes/ Tundra type ?

@ DD the device is a slight twist on the old bench hook for woodworking.

English may not be your native tongue Chris, but you sure have got a handle on the humour.........Made me laugh out loud Mate....laugh

Also the contraption is not really a stripper, but a simple tool for cutting sheet and strip at 90 degrees and square.


Ace03/03/2018 22:20:18
157 forum posts
14 photos

DD, nice workmanship as usual thumbs up

Looks like Boomerang with the 3 side cutouts, round nose and a DD electric motor mount.

onetenor03/03/2018 22:27:43
1531 forum posts

Oooooops !Sorry! Some of that got out of order but I ain't writing it over.. You know what I mean though. Don't you?devilface 22

Dwain Dibley.03/03/2018 23:34:51
867 forum posts
852 photos

Thanks Ace....

I Deciphered your post OT, and yes you are right about the bench hook, but I'm afraid Ace has hit the nail on the head with the Boomerang. laughlaugh I have built and flown many of them for other people, but never owned one. They are a brilliant trainer and will get you through Your "A" and "B" test, I passed mine on one I rebuilt when a mate trashed it. I just thought it would be a laugh to build the kit and supe it up....... a bit like a ford 103 pop with a V8. wink

Except it will be electric.


Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 03/03/2018 23:36:03

Dwain Dibley.04/03/2018 20:24:02
867 forum posts
852 photos

Today I did a bit more, after going to work to move snow before the rain could wash it away..........frown

I have ended up with two fuselages, the Boomer went in the slec jig, and the Puddleduck had the battery treatment.

Both are nice and straight. I have installed the rod guides in the boomer, and the Motor mount and the undercarriage bearers in the PD. I have reinforced the Boomer behind the wing seat former/wing bolt bearer, as that is where a lot of the forces from the wing will act.




I fitted the Arming plug socket, well, made the hole and tested the fit.



Inside. With the doubler, cut to allow the hatch to fit,


I mocked up the tail feathers on both models.



Top Sheeting going on, this was a bad fit and needed some adjustment.





Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 04/03/2018 20:30:31

Dwain Dibley.05/03/2018 22:26:46
867 forum posts
852 photos

Today I went to the LMS, to get some wood to build the wing on the PD, I also bought snakes and two mini servos, with the intention of fitting the snake outers in the home all ready to go, couldn't find the servos........I had left them on the shop counter. DOH !!

So no work on the Puddle duck, but I blasted away at the Boomerang.

Apologies to those expecting a Puddle Duck Wing, but at least it is still kit building. wink


There was a bad fitting fin.







Had to make the tail fin and horizontal stabiliser slots.







Dwain Dibley.07/03/2018 00:11:04
867 forum posts
852 photos

Got the servos and commenced with a servo tray build, this was made from 3mm ply and sits on two 1/4 sq balsa rails. I also fitted some balsa doublers/cheeks in the front to take the nose cone and to give a base for the hatch to sit on. I may change the plan here a bit, and make the hatch out of 1/2 inch sheet carved to shape. It all depends on the motor when it arrives.I am getting it from 4MAX, but the one used in the prototype is no longer available, so I am using this one.

I also built the horizontal stabiliser and elevators, again from 1/4 sheet and square. You have to make sure you leave a gap for the fin, to this end, I pre-glued a length of 1/4 sq on the bottom of the fin that locates in the stabiliser.

The tips are 1/4 sheet and will be lightened as per the plan.

Just the wing to go now, and of course the covering.


Cheeky !!


These simple pieces are the under side of the front end, and will be sanded to shape.


Two balsa rails.


A servo tray.





Below You can see that I have stripped down two old snakes to get the adjustable ends off, these will be reattached, when the PD snakes are ready to go in, and both ends will be adjustable. If this doesn't work, I will just fashion some Z bends.


The Elevators and Horizontal stabiliser. You can see how I used the fin to make the gap. You just have to be careful not to glue it in.


All done and glued up. Holes will be cut into the tips later.


The other one.


Dwain Dibley.07/03/2018 19:36:04
867 forum posts
852 photos

Had a good day today...first off my mate Johnny brought his Flair SE5a round and we had a play with that. It is still in the build stage but we get together and swap ideas on how to do stuff. Today was the fact that the plan shows the tank center line higher than the needle centre, but the O.S. instructions say it should be 10 to 15 mm lower. The problem is the tank cannot go any lower. ???

Second I had a delivery yesterday from Hobby King, I bought some of their covering.....5m for £6.70, transarent Burnt Orange. I am not knocking solarfilm, as I am a big fan, but five metres for the price of one. frownindecision

Anyway....I could not wait to try it out, all the reviews raved about it, and for the price, if it is good, there will be no looking back.

I tried it on a scrap piece of balsa, and I have to say, it really is brilliant.

I set the iron at 145 degrees, and that turned out to be spot on for attaching and shrinking.

(I normally have 175 deg for solartex.) It shrinks really well, and shows up the woodwork really nicely.

So without further ado, I covered the tail feathers....after I had sanded them all to profile, and filled all the gaps. I use the balsa coloured filler, and luckily it doesn't show up under the transparent film much.




In the end I didn't cut out any holes in the stabiliser, I just think it looks better......More "old skool" I.M.H.O. I think it has a look of tissue and dope ?? what do you think ??


Jim Newberry - Nuviation Ltd.07/03/2018 20:42:36
446 forum posts
219 photos

Looking really good Dwain! I like the choice of covering, here is the original Jemima prototype (Jemima being the predecessor of Puddleduck). As you can see, I used transparent film of a similar colour!



Dwain Dibley.07/03/2018 21:09:27
867 forum posts
852 photos

Thanks Jim.

I love the way the woodwork shows through......makes you do a better job as well, knowing it will be on show. laugh

I also like the 1/8 sq timber in the wing, it adds something... besides strength.


Dwain Dibley.08/03/2018 14:42:38
867 forum posts
852 photos

Just before I went to bed, I decided to put in the top and bottom rear ply pieces, one supports the tail and the other the tail skid.


Next job, this morning, was to fit the bottom sheeting at the front.


These little ply pieces are my take on the cowl/hatch build. I put these on the top front edge of the fuselage. Also I laminated 4 pieces of balsa to make the coaming, which will support the screen.


The blocks that will take the screws/magnets are added and sanded flush.


The ply is added and then the triangle reinforcement for the under carriage plates.



While things were setting up, I fitted the rudder horn. Mmmmm nice screws.....


Don't forget to file the bolts down.


OK. The next little job was to make a simple battery tray. This is basically two pieces of lite ply, and a balsa stop end.




I am really enjoying this build, I have changed some details and I hope Jim doesn't mind, but we all have our own fave, tried and tested ways of doing things. there is a laser cut kit available for £45, which looks the Mutts, but I am enjoying making the parts. Ribs next.........indecisionfrownwink


Jim Newberry - Nuviation Ltd.08/03/2018 15:56:18
446 forum posts
219 photos


I don't mind at all - in fact I actively encourage people to adapt things according to their own preference! That way we all benefit from each other's experience and every builder ends up with a personalised model.

You are certainly making rapid progress and I am looking forward to seeing the finished article!

Dwain Dibley.08/03/2018 20:49:20
867 forum posts
852 photos

I Made a bit more progress, this afternoon, and got the hatch sorted.

Got the coaming in place and sanded to shape, I faced it with 1/16 ply.

img_20180308_162048.jpgThen I made the hatch, constructed from blocks of balsa and then planed and sanded to shape. It would seem that I omitted to take a pic of the pre sanded hatch. frown



Both ends of the hatch are faced with 1/16 ply, as is the inside of the cowl. This enables the hatch to slide in and out with ease, and protects the edges of the hatch.


I added two 1/16 ply locating plates that stop the hatch moving sideways, as per the plan. You can add these to the hatch itself if you want.

Also one of the plates locates in a slot in the hatch. I do this first and it helps to keep things still while I sand the hatch and fuselage sides to shape.

There will be some adjustment at he front if the motor needs it.


Velcro on the battery mount. Oh, I added the top bit too.


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