Electric foamy of the popular kit
First look.... - 26/8/10
|Marcus Bailey||29/10/2011 09:56:31|
|2 forum posts||Thanks everyone for your help. I've managed to solve the problem. It seems that the ESC wouldn't arm with the travel adjustment (I'm using a DX6i) on 100%. Once I'd set it at 125% all seems well. I'm not sure why, however, it's working and the plane had its maiden yesterday and performed superb.|
Once again, thank you to those who offered some guidance and thoughts.
|buster prop||29/10/2011 13:44:55|
|340 forum posts|
I also have a WOT 4Foam-E Mk 2 which has now flown quite a few times. One or two points made above that I'd agree with. I'm going to replace the stock ESC with a 40A Dualsky which needs a home following the demise of my Innovator EP. The WOT 4 30A (?) ESC does get quite hot. Incidentally I tried a Master 11 x 7 electric prop instead of the 11 x 8 ST one supplied, little difference to current and wattage and the plane flies about the same. 28A, 310W instead of 30A and 325W. Nice to have a spare prop though. One irritating thing is that I have to tighten the u/c screws after every landing and also the battery hatch screw needs tightening as well after replacing the battery cover. I fly with 3S 2200, 30C Overlander 'Sport' cells and have changed the Deans connector to XT60 and run some UHU POR along the hinge lines. Other than that my plane is as supplied, I'd recommend one to anyone other than a complete beginner..
|Allan Bowker||29/10/2011 22:17:50|
1487 forum posts
I would replace the stock ESC, My WOT4-e is currently is 3 pieces.
My own fault, I spent too long in the air, having forgot to set my timer, which is not usually a problem for my planes as I just glide them in on a dead stick, BEC still providing power to the servos.
As you probably have already guessed, this stock ESC didn't stop the motor before the battery gave up, my WOT sailed from high altitude with no motor or servo power.
Completely dead, she went in nose first.
|Alan Moore||30/10/2011 11:15:28|
|93 forum posts|
Had a major crash yesterday. Took off OK but plane
was vey twitchy, like the expo had been disabled. Anyway performed involutary loop ending up 'nosed in'
Wing fractured (almost broken in two) and fuselage front end badly misshapen and
skewed to right (looking from above). Also had a break at rear of fuse. Motor, li po, esc, rx seem unaffected.
Stripped down fuselage completely. Managed to straighten quite a bit using boiling water but not sure how geometery differs from that when it came out of the box. Wing
has been glued as has fuselage. Unfortunately one of wing servos gears seem to have been stripped.
I have three options:
1. Re-assemble the fuselage and compensate for any skew left in the fuse by
adjusting the motor mount- so thrust line is correct, replace wing servo and strengthen everything up. Would also need to buy new spinner and decals.
2. Buy a new fuselage
These seem to be on back order everywhere I have checked. Still need spinner and decals.
3. Buy a new Model.
Kings Lynn Models seems cheapest.
I am erring towards third option, as it looks quite cheap compared to option 2 and option 1 may result in a model which cannot be trimmed properly.
If I do go for option 1 however does anyone know how to thread the servo wire through the wing- or is it preferable to leave the standard one in place, fit a connector to the end of the wire and also one to the end of the cable on the new servo and if so how easy is it to wire the connectors- they look pretty fiddly.
Any advice or comments appreciated.
|Allan Bowker||30/10/2011 11:36:55|
1487 forum posts
I've replacing the servo's in my wing and it's not an easy job, the wire cant be pulled through. It seems the servo wire is trapped/glued in at the factory.
In the end I cut a slit along the underside of the wing to put my own wires through and then covered the slit with glass re-inforced tape.
|Steve W-O||30/10/2011 12:56:52|
|2775 forum posts|
Sorry to hear, but I would check there was no other cause. I fly mine on high rate with no expo, and it is not twitchy, yet I do use expo on the Mentor.
Hard to decide though, they are not that expensive, but the parts are not good quality,it seems potluck whether you get a luck ESC, motor and servos, or ready made splits in the hinges.
Probably worth fixing yours and getting some more value out of your money.
On all my foam planes, I slit the wing for the wires, and cover with white packing tape if there is no stress to be taken by the tape, and reinforced tape if strength is needed.
48 forum posts
I had a major crash (pilot error) and went and bought a new kit. At least then you have some spare parts from the original model - and a straight fuselage.
|Alan Moore||31/10/2011 18:32:40|
|93 forum posts|
Thanks for your comments.
In fact it could well be that the aileron servo that I noted was faulty after the crash actually caused it.
In any case I have purchased a new model, which should be here tomorrow. Also bought two new (better quality) servos.
|Allan Bowker||31/10/2011 20:45:55|
1487 forum posts
It was an aileron servo failure that bought down my second WOT during it's second flight. (first one never flown, due to a broken tail hinge).
Ripmax replaced the plane (eventually).
|29 forum posts||Can i use a 4 cell lipo in it? If not what would be a cheap motor and esc to chuck in it? Pref from Hobbyking or Giant Cod. Cheers|
|Steve W-O||02/11/2011 04:49:08|
|2775 forum posts|
It comes with a motor and ESC.
I wouldn't use a 4 cell with the original ESC, it is not very good.
There is not much room in the battery bay either, and not much way to adjust the COG with the battery position.
A 3536 1000kv motor would work OK, with a 40A or 50A ESC
|Allan Bowker||02/11/2011 12:46:08|
1487 forum posts
I can only agree with what Steve said Harris.
Ripmax apparently had a v2 made of the WOT-4 Foam-E which was released some time ago (it's mentioned in this thread somewhere) I've had some photo's of my v2 waiting to be posted for too long now.
The motor looks the same as the v1
An improvement on the cowl, they have now cut open an air inlet.
It's important to allow air to flow through to help keep that ESC cool.
This is also a good way of telling if your WOT4 F-e is a v1 or v2
The v2 WOT4 F-e is said to have a better ESC, however this one let me down when the BEC didn't kick in, resulting in a dead stick with no servo control.
Also my fault for flying too long!
I would recommend swapping this ESC out with something more reliable.
No design improvements to the clever but weak tail hinge assembly.
Edited By Allan Bowker on 02/11/2011 12:47:08
|Allan Bowker||02/11/2011 13:20:33|
1487 forum posts
I have been asked a few times about my trials replacing the servo's in the WOT4 Foam-E, yesterday's PM has promted me into action this time. Here are the photo's and info:
First of all I took a look at the hardware, the standard push rod retainers that come with the WOT may not fit a standard servo arm. Note the gap between the lower part of the servo arm and the white plastic clip on the bottom of the brass retainer. Such a loose fitting would probably lead to sloppy control surfaces that do not centre correctly and possibly a failure by the lower clip disconnecting from the brass retainer.
Replacing the brass retainers was the solution I went for, these fitted the servo arms perfectly, providing a very secure and positive output to the push rod.
The replacements are the pair on the left and the standard brass pair on the right.
New servo's installed in the main bay, an easy start.
Now onto the main event, the wings. This is a much more tricky affair and may prove a few of us to wish we hadn't bothered. So for the more adventurous amoungst us, here we go!
Here we have a picture of a standard stock wing servo with the cover removed.
The covers are held in place by a small amount of silicone and can be teased of with a bit of care, time and a scalpel.
The plastic mounting cradle is removed from the stock servo and just about fitted round my replacement servo (quite a tight fit). It seems you may have to check dimensions of your servos before ordering them, I was lucky this time.
Replacements were 4x New Power XL-9HM 9g Metal Geared Servo purchased from Kings Lynn Models.
The next picture shows the servo replaced, including the replacement of the brass retainer. Differences with the servo, arm and retainer meant that I had to trim the foam a bit to ensure that I could get to the retainer screw and stop and snagging.
I added a bit of thread lock in there for good measure too, I didn't want to take these covers off again.
Replacing the servo cover hides the removed foam from view, leaving a nice flush enclosed servo bay.
Now for the worst bit, the servo cables. I wasn't able to pull the old extension cables through, they seem to be stuck/glued in place at the factory, probably through a few ribs.
Instead of using brute force and damaging the integrity of the wing internals I cut a slit in the wing, just deep enough to embed my new cables.
Once installed and tested I then ran some foam safe cyano along the slit to add a bit more strength to the wing, just in case I had gone through a rib with my knife. Just for good measure I also ran some glass reinforced tape along too, just to keep everything nice and flush.
Good luck with your replacement work if you have a go, I'm glad I did, I'm not wondering about those cheap and nasty stock servos any more.
|Alan Moore||03/11/2011 21:55:29|
|93 forum posts|
Brilliant post Allan.
This is going to help me no end.
|Simon Chambers||03/11/2011 23:20:21|
|784 forum posts|
Just a small warning.
I upgraded my Wot4 foam-e to 4cell and put an uprated speed controller in too. First flight a success. Second not so much.
I had installed telemetry in and was playing around with it in the air trying to get a top speed. Well it turns out that at 60MPH if you haven't reinforced/hinged the tail feathers, they will flutter (I didn't hear it, but a fellow club-mate heard it buzzing) and quite literally be ripped off!
Impacting the ground vertical, nose first at around 60mph unfortunately resulted in the nose becoming squashed into the fuselage and requiring a spade to dig the motor and prop washer back out. It also made a big dent (and hence writing it off) in a brand-spanking-new 4s pack.
Surprisingly though, neither the motor shaft doesn't appear bent and the motor still spins and runs freely!
So if anyone is thinking of going down the 4S route, make sure your control surface hinges are up to the job and there is minimal slack in the control run.
|ken anderson.||04/11/2011 09:23:23|
6713 forum posts
never in the 'field' of model flying has a model caused so much conflict(or something like that)...... i think that this model must be the ONE to have so much adverse publicity and negative comments as it should be given a reward or something...when it was first anounced i prob along with lots of others imagined it was going to be the icing on the cake...instead it appears to be a 'pig in a poke'..... and is pot luck if you get one that does what it says on the box?......if it was an ordinary consumer product-i think that trading standards and the rest would be up in arm's.....thats my impression of this model ..... i feel sorry for anyone who was sucked in by the advance PR.....thank goodness i didn't part with my Dosho...........
ken anderson ne..1 consumer dept.
|Allan Bowker||04/11/2011 09:54:48|
1487 forum posts
|Agreed Ken, such a shame that a nice airframe has been let down by poor electronics and weak hinges. |
I picked up an ST Models MX2 for ?50, the hinges on that are questionable too. Can't grumble for that kind of money though, you certainly get what you pay for.
As a result I'm wary of anything that is produced by the ST Models factory.
|Steve W-O||04/11/2011 10:08:46|
|2775 forum posts|
Exactly the case.
What makes it worse is the total lack of interest from Ripoff.
I sent a letter to the retailer, got no reply, then wrote to Ripoff, who told me to write to the retailer again, and they didn't know how to contact me, despite the fact they had the address to deliver the model!!!
It is fun to fly, and a different type of flying to other foam planes, but if you take into account having (in may cases) to strengthen the hinges before even the first flight, replacing the servos, ESC and motor, it is very over priced and poor quality.
I would never buy any of their products again, no matter how good they may be, I nmow know that if there does happen to be a problem, they are not interested.
|Bob Cotsford||04/11/2011 10:53:12|
4539 forum posts
Yes, I should glue mine back together after having the rudder and elevators go their own ways as a result of flutter. The wing, tailpane and fin survived but the nose is in several sections. On the other hand I could knock up a balsa fuselage modelled on the foam one, build an ugly-stik fus for the wings or just use the leccy bits in something else entirely.
If fuselages were available, and a reasonable price it would be a no-brainer, but as it is I'm leaving it at the back of the queue for building board space.
It was good - while it lasted!
|Simon Chambers||04/11/2011 11:04:39|
|784 forum posts|
Maybe I'm an anomaly on this forum, but I loved mine! So much so, I've had two of them.
The first I ran the battery too flat, the ESC voltage cut-off kicked in and I ended up landing in a rough field. Checked it all out, appeared ok, apart from a broken prop. Took it up again (with a new prop) and it only pulled to the right. I managed to coax it round with full left aileron and using the rudders and elevators, until I hit an unfortunate area where I got glitches on 35MHz. The glitch applied full right, and hence I was unable to recover. Inspecting the damage afterwards, I reckon the first impact bent the motor mount slightly and so thus significantly altered the thrust angle of the motor. I blame myself for the crash - I should have really taken off the cowling to inspect the motor mounting before I took it up the second time.
The actual impact damage wasn't that great. The nose was bent a tad, the motor mount was bent out of shape, the rear foam hinges had broken and the wing had a crack in the foam. Nothing that couldn't be fixed. However as I was learning and preparing to do my A-test at the time, and work commitments meant that I didn't have time to fix it. Also for £99.99 (at the time - they now seem to be around the £120-130 mark) I could buy a brand-new airframe to replace it and have it built in an hour or so (including sticking on those blasted stickers) - so that's what I did! I would also have the advantage of having a box full of spare parts.
So I passed my A-test with it and continued flying it as a general hack model for about 3-4 months. As I was getting better, I wanted a bit more oomph to play around with - hence the 4s upgrade. Now I again don't blame Ripmax or the model for it failing on 4S power, as after all, it wasn't originally designed for it. Infact the space was so tight fitting in a 4s pack, I ended up putting the uprated speed controller on the outside. I feel it was like putting a 60 sized engine in a 40 sized trainer and have the firewall rip off - i.e. I can't blame the manufacturer for operating it outside its specs.
The second model was a write-off. However I now have enough spare bits from both of them to repair the first and have a working one again. I haven't done this yet, as I have 4/5 unbuilt kits still to finish!
I would thoroughly recommend to anyone to buy one and use it as a trainer. Its very quick to build - no gluing involved, no need to mess about trying to get the tail feathers aligned properly - nor trying to glue two wing halves together, stable, easy to fly, not too fast (I found it possible to fly slower than a 40sized trainer) and its forgiving in the winds. My previous planes were a 40sized trainer that had its two wing halves come apart from a dodgy glue joint, once I got that repaired, I couldn't get the engine to run reliably. I then got a twin-star - good plane, however I then found out I couldn't do my A-test with it - no undercarriage. So I bought a mini-mag, which after coming back to the hobby after a 2 year break, I found out that I couldn't do my A-test with it as it weighted too little! So the Wot-4 allowed me to get my A-test done, with little fuss and no real trouble.
Interestingly after blowing up a speed controller through another unfortunate accident (!) - involving testing the motor in the spare room and the girlfriends dress being sucked into the prop (oops) - I removed the heat-shrink and had a look. The P-Channel MOSFETs (the electronic device that does the switching to control the motor) for the top half of the bridge, counted all together, are actually only rated for 26A continuous. So running near the 35A rating on the controller would be running the MOSFETs into their short term ratings (never a good thing to do on any electronics) - hence why they tend to get overly hot and not live long lives.
Please login to post a reply.