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Sharkface build, Big bandit

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Big Bandit06/01/2012 10:19:31
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2436 forum posts
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Hi Lee,
 
The Merlin would be a good choice to power one of these, I have about 3 of them.
 
In saying that dependent on age the Merlin does tend to suffer from Contra piston problems with them locking so that they can't be adjusted. I just take the cylinder off and tap the piston back, after doing this a couple of times the thing loosens up and they run sweet. On the other hand if the contra piston is too loose it makes starting quite hard so I drift the thing out of the top of the cylinder and put it on a piece of hard wood on the anvil of my vice, then use a suitable sized ball bearing to "ping it". Just put the bearing in the open end and one tap with a four oz hammer, not to hard usually does the job. Squeeze it back into the bore gently in the vice with a piece of hardwood at each end. I do this with any diesel I own that has a loose contra piston, it works every time.
 
Once sorted they are a delight to operate compared to some other motors.
 
Hopefully my Sharkface will be trimmed up and fuel proofed today and the motor run up in the garage, just a couple of tank fulls while the fuel proofer dries.
 
Can't wait to get my Matador started now, I've been following you blog with interest and forming up my idea's, the motors going to be a Mk2 ED Bee if that doesn't provide enough urge I'll change it to a PAW 149 both good motors. What I'm trying not to do is over power it at the same time I don't wont the motor to be screaming to maintain height.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
Big Bandit06/01/2012 10:32:25
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Thanks Steve,
 
They are so easy to put together, and quite enjoyable in a simple sort of way, and what with the balsa cement, dope thinners, tissue, diesel, acetone it's like going back to basics again.
 
Looking forward to seeing your Sharky taking shape.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
Lee Damms06/01/2012 11:02:03
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168 forum posts
58 photos
Hi Chris, now thats a good dodge with the contra piston I thought I'd have to make a new one. Just for info there's a note I came across on the modelenginenews.org site which says
A note for Merlin owners, there is a red fiber gasket that fits under the exhaust port band of the liner. This gasket not only seals the crankcase for primary compression, it also sets the "deck" height of the cylinder and thus, the transfer/exhaust ports. If it's missing, or too thin, transfer does not occur and you've no chance of ever starting the engine. With the correct gasket in place, the Merlin is a docile, easy starting engine of modest power, able to be "throttled back" by slackening off the compression to spin a 8x4 wood prop comfortably--doubtless, a reason it gained popularity with the FF scale community.
Lee
Lee Damms06/01/2012 11:06:41
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168 forum posts
58 photos
Hi Chris forgot to say thought about putting my PAW 1.5 in but its an old non throttle job and I did'nt fancy an un throttled PAW the ED Bee should be much more sedate and with the standard rigging angles should be fine unless you're doing a full solartex covering.
 
Lee
GONZO06/01/2012 14:02:12
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270 forum posts
3 photos
You could 'enjoy' the full single channel experience with the Sharkface if you get one of PhilG's single channel emulation encoders. Put it in a plastic case, feeding a FrSky (or other make) 2.4gHz module, with a push button on the front. The encoder is configurable for sequentual or compound opperation. It can even be configured to give kick up elevator and quick blip throttle. The Rx and servos are as used for propo. The big plus is its reliable using a 2.4gHz RF link .
Single channel - its the way foward in RC!
Check out the link to his site and go to the '2.4gHz Conversions' and 'Archive' pages:
 
 

Edited By GONZO on 06/01/2012 14:09:33

Steve Hargreaves - Moderator06/01/2012 14:43:53
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5002 forum posts
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Thats a great site Gonzo....I see they are planning a kind of fly in sometime.....would be great for RCM&E to cover it...I'm sure Mr Whittaker wouldn't mind crossing into Yorkshire for such a meeting......
 
How 'bout it Mr Ashby???
David Ashby - RCME06/01/2012 14:52:58
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9735 forum posts
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Yes, he'll be there if, as and when
 
 
Big Bandit06/01/2012 18:21:29
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hi Lee,
 
I've been "pinging contra pistons for years", save turning up new ones. I think it dates back to when quality control hadn't been heard of and some of the stuff coming out of the DC factory wasn't that good. I worked in a model shop back in the early seventies for a short time.
 
When customers brought a motor back, you could tell when the contra piston was leaking by the bubbles passing the comp screw. Just pinged it and ran it up so they could hear it running in the back room (leave the door open), tell em not to adjust the settings till they were familiar with starting the thing and give em a free can of nitrated diesel as a sweetener .
 
Some of the older motors have a tread tapped into the open end to facilitate drifting the piston back into the bore.
 
The fibre washer you mention are a problem if the barrel has been over tightened into the crankcase. Old fashioned hardware shops some times stock them as sealing washes for older kitchen sink taps in a range of sizes, I always buy a few when I'm shopping for plumbing supplies, just in case.
 
If you haven't already thrown it away, the card board rolls that Christmas wrapping paper is sold on, these days they've gone for a stiff but thin card rather than a tube, save it it's brilliant for gaskets on small engines. Just soak it in after run oil after cutting, it'll out last the original.
 
I'm enjoying this mucking about with old motors malarkey again too much, and will have to get a grip and pull some finger with the Super 60 .
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
Big Bandit06/01/2012 18:39:22
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hi Lee it's me again,
 
As for the PAW 149, their not too expensive these days, so I might invest in a new one with throttle and silencer, I'm not too keen on running motors without a silencer these days, even diesels.
 
With the older Bees and ED variants along with the Mills motors, I've used a cork bung on the end of a length of piano wire, slapped into the air intake as a crude form of throttle. Just whittle away a bit of cork so when it's rammed into the air intake the motor just keeps running. Some motors had an air bleed so they could be used to stop the motor at will, two of my Mills are good examples.
 
For the Matador I'll use a bung as a throttle stop rather than a fuel cut off or buy a new motor.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.

Edited By Big Bandit on 06/01/2012 18:41:31

Big Bandit06/01/2012 18:52:39
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hey Gonzo,
 
I've looked at the site, in fact Chris Bott has already gone down the S/C on 2.4 gig route with his Matador. It's very tempting and the lads from Phil and Shaun's Single channel and Vintage R/C page were at the Nats. For me I need more work space ie the garage when it has a new roof ( been in there today and the floors wet from yesterdays rain), but will give it a try sometime soon, particularly if I can get hold of an authentic S/C TX case just for the job. I'm quite happy building my own RC gear so it'd be a dodle, but it would have to be safe.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
Big Bandit06/01/2012 21:12:05
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hey Steve,
 
It would be great if there was a flyin for Vintage including S/C , any road up I've done a bit in the shed today, first off I've sorted out my tissue boxes, just to see what I have.
 

Enough for a bit of arty stuff with a scalpel.

 
The end result. well I did say I was doing it for fun .

 
 

I've test run the motor, but was not impressed with the contra piston leaking,


A Teflon washer sorted it, but that blew on the second tank full.
 
 
So rather than waste time I fitted the glow head back on.
 

A right little screamer, with the silencer fitted it started to choke up very quickly. This one has a piston / barrel set that uses sub piston induction and the silencer creates back pressure that dilutes the incoming charge. I have a QZ in the shed that I'll fit tomorrow when the fuel proffers dry. It will add a few grams to the the AUW, but it's at the front where it needs to be, it will aslo give a power progression in fitting ever more potent motors (Golden Bee and Black Widow) without any trim change (they all weigh the same).
 
I've sourced a couple of new old stock props (cost 1-8) originaly, that nearly 2 bob or 10p these days.
 
 
Time for a snack then it's back to the Super 60. (these chutney jars are great for mixing and keeping dope in)
 
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
 
 
Lee Damms07/01/2012 01:18:57
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168 forum posts
58 photos
Blimy Chris are they 51/2x4 props? did'nt know they made um. Only used 5x3 and 6x4 on the cox 's currently using cox 6x4 on Sharkey
Lee
Big Bandit08/01/2012 08:38:06
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hi Lee, they were a snip on Ebay, I have a 5 x3 KK prop and some 6 x 4 Cox props, just need to try em to see what gives the best results. I found this on the site that you mentioned.
 
 
Brilliant site, there's also a link to a cox site that's a fantastic source of information if you have a collection of the things.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
Lee Damms08/01/2012 11:10:37
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168 forum posts
58 photos
Thanks for the info Chris
Lee
Big Bandit08/01/2012 11:38:36
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hi Lee,
 
This is the Cox link absolutely fascinating I spent a long time on it.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
GONZO08/01/2012 13:31:12
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270 forum posts
3 photos
Good link on Cox motors.
Got quite a few links on various topics, ie special parts, increasing performance etc.
Got a number of Cox engines of all capacities/types as well.
A couple of links to be getting on with for now, although you may already know of them:
 
 
 
Lee Damms08/01/2012 19:11:57
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168 forum posts
58 photos
Great links guys, the engines and parts uk is Dens Models where my Sure Start came from Gonzo. Now I know why the surestart has the R/C throttle its one of the few that does'nt have SPI, I don't think you can throttle back as far with SPI.
GONZO08/01/2012 19:51:07
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270 forum posts
3 photos
Forget throttle on an engine with a SPI liner - no good at all. As a matter of interest I have a genuine NIB Cox TD 051 RC. Came from the factory with silencer and RC carb but they didn't fit the TD SPI liner. Sorry, taking the thread to far off topic
Big Bandit08/01/2012 20:19:24
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Hi Gonzo, great sites I have them bookmarked already, and just won another 020 on Ebay, that'll be four now. The Cox Box. There's a couple more in the garage or mounted on one of my neezers for the Mayfly at Old Warden.
 
 
The odds Box. A few more Cox bit's along with others.
 

 
The one I'll be using in the Sharkface is a QRC that I picked up for a fiver at the Nats one or two years ago. It looked right manky, but half an hour had it sorted.
 
Before.
 

 

During the clean up.

 
After.
 
 
You do need the proper Cox spanners to dismantle and reassemble these motors.

 
The next motors lined up for the same treatment.
 

Cheers,

Chris.
Big Bandit08/01/2012 20:49:15
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2436 forum posts
947 photos
Back to the Sharky, my mate rang this afternoon to see if I wanted to go flying, but I've got nothing charged up so I did a bit to the Super 60 and mounted the new motor on the Sharky.
 
Looking very happy with this one.


And I've sorted a proper Cox glow clip for it, on a 1.2 Nim.
 

There's the full starting kit but I think the fuel will have gone off now, the battery will definitely be flat.
 

Sharky's going to have to lurk in the shed for now, while I finish the Super 60.
 

Cheers,
 
Chris.

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