14 forum posts
I am plotting my techniques for some new builds, and not happy with the price colors, or diesel resistance of iron on films, my currently proposed idea is dyeing my own lightweight nylon with a base colour I like and painting on the finer details.
I am going to use nitrate non shrinking dope for sheet wood surfaces, thinned 50/50 and nitrate shrinking dope for open structures also thinned 50/50.
But I just wonder now, as I understand that butyrate dope is everything proof, if I can use it as a final coat on everything/humbrol enamel/acrylics?
|Alan Cantwell||04/08/2012 08:34:09|
|3039 forum posts|
its been a while since i doped anything, but i hope this talk on RCU helps you out
|Tony Bennett||04/08/2012 09:26:51|
2339 forum posts
i use polyc and heavyweight tissue on most of my builds.
3 coats of poly c, paint, then another 2 coats to seal the surface and its fuel proof.
|Jim Kemble||04/08/2012 21:10:44|
|29 forum posts|
For non-scale jobs I use SIG Koveral for most surfaces, attached with nitrate, shrunk with heat, and finished with butyrate, either coloured or clear. For scale models sanding sealer of any genre, followed by heavyweight tissue(or Silkspan) doped on with nitrate(to represent metal surfaces) and filled with automotive grey, or white primer, sanded smooth. To represent fabric, Koveral. I use Humbrol matt or gloss as I find it especially true in camouflage colours, and finish with an overall coat of clear satin epoxy well thinned. I prefer this method as in the inevitable damage or scrape repairs are more easily achieved without any reaction between the various coats. All coats are sprayed on and well sanded of course. If not modelling war-birds then instead of Humbrol, butyrate all the way after the nitrate step. The main disadvantage of Humbrol is it's tinlet size. In the good old days they offered larger volumes. It's great advantage is it's covering capacity.
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