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The Atom Special

A simple to build, tough autogyro with racy looks

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in the shops 19 Sep

Andy Nash15/08/2014 23:47:19
128 forum posts
29 photos

Wow you are quick Rich. yes

I am sure there will be builders interested in the foam alternative.

I have used builders foam for the wheel spats on my Panther. Perhaps this material could be used as a replacement for the balsa block ontop of B5?

Keep up the good work mate.


Edited By Andy Nash on 15/08/2014 23:48:10

Steve Jones 216/08/2014 10:01:58
477 forum posts
349 photos

Another great looking model and quick and simple to build. Should attract plenty of converts...

Nice one Rich..... Now where did I put that spare HK head?.........


Richard Harris16/08/2014 12:05:55
1909 forum posts
1735 photos

Thanks guys, I was beginning to think that I was talking to myself !!

Back to it, the fuselage is now sanded to shape. I will make up the cockpit flooring from 3mm balsa sheet, tack it in position and sand to match up with the fuselage.





Richard Harris16/08/2014 13:01:20
1909 forum posts
1735 photos

I will let the photos do the talking on the fabrication of the cockpit floor, a couple of tacks of super glue are used to hold the floor in position whilst sanding takes place.......






Alan Gorham_16/08/2014 13:27:28
336 forum posts
22 photos

Hi Rich

Most fascinating! I like the small size and economic use of materials as well as the attractive lines. I'm guessing it could be a good way to dip my toe into rotary wing flight?

I'll keep an eye out for the Special edition with the plan....

Cali16/08/2014 16:06:09
58 forum posts
7 photos

Rich yet another great looking gyro! Well done mate! I may even attempt to build this one myself


Richard Harris16/08/2014 20:03:10
1909 forum posts
1735 photos


It will perfect for dipping the old fixed wing toe into the puddle of autogyros wink 2


Cali, scale it up 3 or 4 times and its in your league! teeth 2


OK, moving to the boom...

Made from two lengths of 6mm square spruce cut to a length of 400mm each. T1 joins them at the rear and is glued into position first.





The two square strips are then inserted into the female holes created in to the rear of the fuselage making sure they are in until they bottom out.




Making sure everything is square T2 is glued into position flush with the rear of the fuselage



The boom can then be pulled out of the fuselage (it will not be fixed making it removable). At the rear there are two 3mm lite ply T3's top and bottom which are drilled where shown straight through, this will be for the rudder bell crank.

Turning it over the tail skid is fixed centrally to T1, you will note that I have added a small skid made from 0.8mm Fibre glass sheet. I am sure builders will be able to cobble up something better, maybe a steerable tail wheel, there are some clever builders out there.









Edited By Richard Harris on 16/08/2014 20:03:46

Richard Harris16/08/2014 21:51:13
1909 forum posts
1735 photos

The rudder is connected to a bell crank via a simple closed loop system, keeping things simple I had the idea of using a servo out put arm. A rummage through my bits and pieces I found a few of the cross type arms (mine is a standard futaba arm), one arm was cut off and the remainder becomes a bell crank on the cheap.


Its centre hole was opened out until it slid over a piece of 10g piano wire with no slop, the axle is cut t a length of around 30mm and is slid through the hole in T3. It is captivated on the underside with a suitable wheel collet.


Onto the top is slipped a spacer, being tight I used one of those shaft inserts that we all get left over with an electric prop


On top of that goes the servo arm bell crank with another wheel collet on top. Fitted to the centre arm is one of those (not sure what they are called?) servo thingies??


All the bits used



Richard Elliot16/08/2014 22:21:47
177 forum posts
115 photos

Ah ha very clever! I was wondering how that bit workedyes

Chris Dowell17/08/2014 04:28:40
72 forum posts
42 photos


Yes we are watching......just very quietly.

I see that you are using a 1500 ma pack in this model. Will it fit in the front of the fuz against F2 ?


Richard Harris17/08/2014 18:23:23
1909 forum posts
1735 photos


It doesn't need to be pushed in right to up to F2 , my prototype has a piece of foam in the nose before the lipo is fitted.

As a cheap alternative I have opted to make my pilot out of blue foam. Bearing in mind this is no scale aircraft something very basic will do fine here.

I started off by drawing an outline of a pilot out of my head, a simple helmet is easy to do as there are no facial features to worry about.


I cut around the profile with a coping saw then separated the helmet and body.




Starting with a sharp knife I trimmed away until it was close to how I think it should look


Then with fine sand paper it is finished off.


The good thing with blue foam is you can press any lumps into it at the final stages.


Fits OK into the canopy floor I made yesterday, time t paint it whilst the sun is out with some water based enamel.


Richard Harris17/08/2014 20:43:42
1909 forum posts
1735 photos

I have given the pilot and canopy floor a couple of coats of quick drying water based enamel, seat belts are drawn on with a permanent marker pen. The visor is aluminium duct tape.


Though completely wrong I made up a steering wheel using a small length of silicone fuel tubing pulled down into position with cocktail sticks, all painted black.


I used this UHU glue bought from the pound shop to glue the pop bottle canopy into position.


the canopy is held in position with duct tape until the glue has cured.



When dry the canopy is removed and trimmed leaving an over hang of around 10mm so that the canopy self locates into position. To keep it down I will add a couple of magnets.




Jobs a 'Good Un' thumbs up

On to the U/C next


Andy Nash17/08/2014 21:18:42
128 forum posts
29 photos

Very nice Rich.

Any ideas on what colours to use yet, I always fine this to be a challenge. indecision


Richard Harris17/08/2014 22:41:50
1909 forum posts
1735 photos


The plan is to go white, black and green. White and black will go with any primary, secondary or tertiary colour so it should be OK. Just using offcuts really as there is not a lot to cover!


Richard Harris18/08/2014 20:00:57
1909 forum posts
1735 photos

The U/C is made in two parts which are identical from 10g piano wire, easily bent up in a vice using our favourite tool in the bag!


Using a correctly sized drill the holes in the U/C lower plate ar drilled out straight through the B1 and B2. The short leg is inserted into one hole


Followed by the second leg


A couple of simple fibre glass sheet clamps is all that is needed to secure the U/C in place. This will now be removed and put t one side in readiness for covering.


Mast next


Chris Dowell20/08/2014 09:57:13
72 forum posts
42 photos


Just to double check boom length 400-500 mm ??


Richard Harris20/08/2014 10:50:00
1909 forum posts
1735 photos


400mm , I spotted the mistake on the template sheet and have let David know.

Hows yours coming along?


Slopetrashuk20/08/2014 12:31:59
1083 forum posts
25 photos
8 articles
you gobbin. Dans tail is on and glued! I just had to stop him covering it! See you Friday for a rollocking......

Richard Harris20/08/2014 23:41:29
1909 forum posts
1735 photos


Yes, see you the weekend. I will bring a hack sawwink 2


Chris Dowell21/08/2014 05:36:42
72 forum posts
42 photos


I thought it must be something like that............Bit silly 500 long, eh Andy....could have a bit of a balance probsarcastic.

My build is just up with yours......its pretty complex..smiley

I have a couple of HK heads on the way that were ordered prior to this build...but hopefully are only a couple of days away.


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