Building Techniques

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RCME Staff  |  Feb 15, 2018  |  0 comments
I often found myself in awe at the occasionally outrageous colour schemes adopted by the more flamboyant pilots of the German Air Force during W. W. I. Such aircraft (Pfalz, Fokker and Albatros, to name but a few) were seen in many different colours, individually painted to their pilots’ requirements, and can be found documented in the many publications that adorn the shelves of aviation bookshops and, of course, in abundance on the internet.
RCME Staff  |  Jan 18, 2018  |  0 comments
1. Most standard servos come with a set of four rubber grommets, brass ferrules and fixing screws. Also included is a selection of different output arms that can be changed to suit your model’s installation requirements. 2.
RCME Staff  |  Jan 02, 2018  |  0 comments
This month we’re going to put some flesh on the bones by designing the fuselage, wings and tailplane. THE FUSELAGE BOX The first thing to do is draw the outline of the fuselage box. The front of the box will be F1, and the top will be on the horizontal datum line. The rear of the box should be set a little behind the elevator hinge line, though this point can vary from a 1/4” behind the hinge line (leaving just enough room for the elevator joiner in front of the rudder hinge) to somewhere beyond the end of the elevators.
RCME Staff  |  Oct 23, 2017  |  0 comments
YOU WILL NEED: 1. A mini drill or similar rotary drilling tool complete with cutting bit attachment. 2. Small needle files, fine sandpaper, masking tape and a marker pen.
RCME Staff  |  Sep 13, 2017  |  0 comments
Hinge Thing These days when we need to hinge a control surface such as an elevator, aileron, or rudder, we troop off to the model shop and select an off-the-peg commercial solution. All well and good. However, in ye olden days we used to sew control surfaces to flying surfaces with ordinary cotton thread. As a young bloke, sewn hinges contributed to the viability of my scratch-built control-liners, free fight power models, and early radio jobs.
RCME Staff  |  Jul 26, 2017  |  0 comments
The last time we were gathered here I signed off by promising to show you how to make a perfect wire wrap solder joint, but before we do, I’m going to iron out a few wrinkles following feedback from well-meaning readers that states: Washing items with water prior to soldering could be a problem in hard water areas, as a deposit might be left on the job. It’s not a good idea to use emery cloth or wet-and-dry abrasive material, as any residual grit particles will cause a problem when soldering. Kitchen detergent contains silicone, which could prevent solder from adhering to the metal. Lightly solder-tack the two tinned wires together, fold a return in the binding wire.
RCME Staff  |  May 18, 2017  |  0 comments
You’d be surprised just how much damage a model can sustain and still be repairable. Take the club member who flew his new ARTF CAP 232 into the concrete, for example. The fuselage was reduced to a mass of splinters, but after a spell in the workshop his model was back in the air looking as good as new. However, there was nothing miraculous about this resurrection, which came about because the owner not only flies ARTFs but also builds aeroplanes from scratch, and so understands both how models are put together, and how they can be repaired when they come apart.
RCME Staff  |  Apr 26, 2017  |  0 comments
The trouble with today’s ARTF culture is that flyers who’ve never built a model from scratch don’t know how to repair their aircraft when they crash or damage them. As a result, too many people are spending money unnecessarily replacing broken models which, for just a few pounds, could be put back into the air. For the price of a cheap ARTF it’s possible to buy the handful of tools and materials necessary to repair any number of expensive ARTFs. FIRST AID This month, we’re going to discuss ways to repair the sort of damage that results from a minor crash, starting with what you should do immediately after your model has ‘arrived’.
RCME Staff  |  Feb 23, 2017  |  0 comments
Okay, confession time. In the decade or so that I’ve been designing and scratch-building sport-scale models, one of the key factors that’s helped determine my choice of subject has been the complexity (or rather the lack of complexity) of the cockpit area. I’ve quietly tended to plump for models that feature simple, flat-screen windshields or those that are easily fabricated with single-plane curves. Whenever I’ve come across more complex canopies I’ve fudged the issue by carving them from foam or balsa, or utilising a portion cut from a plastic soft drinks bottle.
RCME Staff  |  Jan 05, 2017  |  0 comments
YOU WILL NEED: 1. Balsa for longerons and uprights (6 x 6mm pictured). 2. Balsa for gussets (in this instance, 6mm sheet to match the longeron thickness).
RCME Staff  |  Oct 14, 2016  |  0 comments
Doesn’t time fly when you’re having fun? I couldn’t believe it was time to put pen to paper again and update you on the projects loitering in the workshop. This month I thought we’d begin by looking, once again, at RDS and hidden controls. This was promped by a letter from a fan of the column. .
RCME Staff  |  Sep 08, 2016  |  0 comments
Asubject that draws many questions within our hobby concerns propellers. How to balance them correctly, how to test the balance, the difference between static and dynamic balance, and how to accurately enlarge the shaft hole. It’s all good, valid stuff, so let’s dive straight in. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve asked the question, “Are you sure the propeller’s properly balanced?” when a caller asks for my input regarding a vibrating engine problem.
RCME Staff  |  Jul 27, 2016  |  0 comments
YOU WILL NEED: 1. A servo, complete with fixings and a plastic servo arm. 2. A control surface horn and its screw fixings.
RCME Staff  |  Jan 21, 2016  |  0 comments
Cyril Carr's Semi scale sportster is designed primarily for beginners but is also a platform for those uninitiated in the ways of Depron to experiment with the techniques and adhesives required and we've got the build photo's. So take a look below and allow them to aid your build! Happy building! . . .
RCME Staff  |  Sep 20, 2015  |  0 comments
My home-brew winter project has reached the stage where the woodwork is essentially complete, bar some final gluing up, and it’s time to cover the model. Since the aeroplane is a sports design I’ve decided to use an eye catching scheme in a bright iron-on film. Now, before applying any covering I always perform a trial installation of the radio and engine, including all control runs, as it’s all too easy to damage a covered model during this process. Also, it’s very much easier to cover components whilst they’re still flat objects on the bench.


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