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Given the choice of glues that you mentioned, I'd ask how easily you could restrain the lite ply against the expansion of the Gorilla glue and whether you want the job to be done quite quickly. You won't want the lite ply being pushed away from the foam as the Gorilla glue expands, so if it's tricky to ensure that, for the expansion period, then I'd go for the UHU Por used as a contact adhesive.

I have some Gorilla glue to, bought for DIY rather than modelling, it is brown but not sure it is the specific one you mean. It is quite runny and expands when it cures - is that the one you mean.

I didnt use an Apc for that reason . I think mines got a Radio Active 12x6 or similar . Conventional shaped props look better and require less enlargement of the spinner prop slots .

POR or Gorilla Glue - if no voids to fill I use the GG clear - it's non-foaming, and I used it to build my foam Hanky-Planky. Tom

Out of the two I would use POR. However my first choice would be Gorilla Glue Brown.

I’ve had my KS230 for a few years now and it is a really good machine however I wanted something a bit bigger do bought the FET about 2 years ago. That is the only one I use now!

Put a couple of washers in there Brian, a lot less faff than cutting!

I have "Classic" foamies, Robbe Concorde, Parkzone 49" Mosquitoes, Multiplex Sonic Liner etc. Classic in my mind because they came and went whilst out of the hobby and still survive in various states, some even have limited spares available.

Lightly loaded aeroplanes just fly better, whether that is a model or full sized B747. They will fly on less power, land and take off at lower speeds. Needlessly adding more materials to make them ever stronger is counter productive because of the weight gain. One complication I am keen on however are flaps, not just for low speed arrivals but to stop the long float in ground-effect before touchdown. Some years ago I remember watching a friend’s Mossie come creaming in over the threshold at low level before floating the length of the strip. Finally he landed in the ‘rough’ and ignominiously ending up inverted. That is when you do need a tough model! Of course he was coming in like a train because of the fear of the dreaded ‘tip-stall’. (I would have done the same) Flaps? A good servo is all you need in terms of added weight, a good trade off I feel.

Same same but with a TF Corsair. I think it will be a flying brick using the kit wood etc so have largely lost interest. Wife bought it for me from Alans Models in Whitley Bay 30 yrs ago when I first met her. I knew she was a keeper at that point 😂 Its my longest running ‘forever project’

Hi I’m terrible for multiple projects on the go but am currently resisting the urge to start another. I want to get all the current ones flying before I start a new project. We’ll see. 😂

Quick question as I'm lining up the motor mount - did anyone else need to trim the ally spinner to fit an APC-E prop in there? The spinner cut outs don't seem anywhere near deep enough to get an APC-E 12" x 8" in there without making them larger in both pieces.

Here's a good example of how my build pipeline can get interrupted... There I was making progress with my Strange Quark Mk2 prototype (vectored thrust) when a friend, who'd finished building his Top Quark from my plan, wanted me to cover it. He hates covering, is not great at it, and didn't want to ruin the model. I hope he likes Tigers 🤣 This was quickly followed by a new EDMAC club member who'd extricated a Kamco Kadet trainer from his garage, which was last flown about 15 years ago. He asked me to repair the damaged tail feathers. But there was a fair bit of other work I deemed necessary like stripping down and cleaning a seized 40 year old OS Max 30 RC, replacing a perished fuel tank bung and replacing the 4-cell NiMh flight battery that, after multiple cycling, no longer held sufficient charge. I also have made two purchases from the BMFA classifieds. Both largish biplanes circa 72-inch span. The first, a Moki 135 powered Bipablast, I've spent a couple of days checking it over, cleaning it, and ordering a few bits and pieces to get it fully airworthy. The second, an Ultimate 120 airframe, I'm collecting tomorrow. This will solve the problem of what to do with my recently acquired un-run Saito 125a 4-stroke. 👌 Before returning to my Strange Quark Mk2, after 2 or 3 weeks' absence, I first had to repair the nose of the Mk1 prototype I accidentally sat on and crushed. 🤬 Happy days.

... and don't I know it! I've just sent an email to the 8 year-old twin sons of my nephew. They sent us a couple of cards last week and asked what we did at Easter. We didn't do anything but we used to ride a long distance trial (The Land's End), often on a sidecar outfit and I sent them a picture of us winning the sidecar class in 1973 (so long ago) and another of us riding our tandem more recently (1999) - we were nearly 60 then but it's 24 years ago 😞 Neither of us has turned a pedal this year and I haven't flown much either.

Now all back together. Hole? What hole. A new "heavy" nose cone printed in double wall PLA rather than a single wall in LW-PLA. It also has 5g of lead in it so 13g rather than2. The CofG is now still further forward. It looks crazy but it flew impossibly tail heavy at the left hand mark (25% mean chord). Still flew tail heavy at the middle mark (18%). The right hand mark is at about 12%. I just have to accept that the long relatively bulky forward fuselage compared to the tiny wing creates a substantial nose up pitch at the normal angle of attack for such a light weight low powered plane. The final modification will be to cut down the full span ailerons as the roll sensitivity is much too great. Even the gyro can't control it at the moment.

Just watched a YouTube video of the Proxxon KS 230, little underwhelmed to be honest.

I assume you are certain they are RX8R PROs and not RX8R (the "PRO" text is difficult to see!). UNI firmware on the Rx will eliminate the need to make sure you have compatible firmware on the Rx. Mike

Hello again. Both wings have now been finished, Both look like this, I have to glue them both together then glass. The Tail feathers are also finished. Fin. Tail plane and skid. 1/4 Balsa. Steve.

Have you tried flashing the receivers with the UNI firmware? This eliminates the issue of different ACCST versions and LBT etc. Note that with the UNI firmware, you can bind the newly-flashed receiver (so you get a solid green LED) but you won't get any servo operation until you activate it using a code that you get from T9 or Aloft Hobbies. Also, sometimes a receiver won't bind if it is too close to the transmitter during the attempted binding process. Try them a few feet apart. Brian.

Andy and I use to fly together at Rivenhall in Essex . So I got to fly some of his models including the Mossie and his very light Chipmunk . The designs are by Ivan Pettigrew and are a bit like the old kiel Kraft stringers and tissue style of construction . Probably a bit too semi scale as Andy says , but amazingly easy to fly when you compare it with the more typical 14lb 72" Mossie . You certainly felt comfortable flying it with every confidence of bringing it home in pristine condition . Going a little more scale will be the answer . But it shows what can be done . The landing speeds were trainer like , so quite modest retracts would suffice . Have a look at his plan as his method of undercarriage was unusual but clever . Thanks Andy .

Hi, GG, The stress cracks mentioned were regarding a Percival Prentis by the same designer caused by a heavy landing. The method of separating the fuselage is not the way I would be happy with as it is at a point where a 3 point heavy landing would create a lot of stress but Robin Fowler favours it and it seems to work for him. Early Fw Condors were prone to go at that point.

I thought a Scottish attitude would to make do and mend 😅 or is that just the English attitude 😅

Richards furry friends must have spoken to our posties as the order form arrived today! The cheque is in the post. Nigel