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They came off in a roll?

Thanks yes that's where I downloaded the update studio. I've tried it on windows 10 and 11 pcs with the same result... It gets as far as applying the file to the tx then stops. Obviously the USB comms are OK as it identifies the tx type. The screen image of the failure is here

No, there's no option on the kit for tip ailerons and flaps, but I did some actual measurements of some diagrams, eyeballed some full size Hurricanes at Duxford and Shuttleworth, and came up with cutting a step in to the TE by ~6mm (the thickness of the TE wood cap) to make the tip ailerons deeper, and used the stock torque rods to do split flaps.

What Paul said is generally true . However I have a vast collection of wheels from different manufacturers . On the same brand you could definitely go from 70mm to 76mm for rough strips . If you are not worried about looks , I have some larger and thinner than that . So anyone having issue like that , should always ask me first as I may be able to swap out the wheels for something bigger and thinner . From a looks point of view the ones shown always look in the ball park and weigh almost nothing . Ive always liked them . But I do think you have a valid point .

As the wheel size goes up so does its thickness, the wheel as it is hasn't got a lot of room.

The error message shuts down the usb port on the pc which means the device isn’t recognised and doesn’t show in File Explorer. My understanding is firmware updates usually rectify glitches rather adding new features which why I thought it worth trying to update.

My 2017 Xtrail refused to start a few weeks ago, changed the battery ( £150) , no issues, stop start began working much more so this could be used as an indicator of battery health if only you knew? Mind you my old much lamented SAAB had a voltmeter which left no doubt.

Well that doesn’t look too tricky. I suspect even a newcomer like me will cope - with a sensible measure twice, cut once approach. Only question from me - for those of us flying off rough strips is there any scope to upsize the wheel diameter further, or are we maxed out in the space at that size?

Just waiting for the new set of castings to arrive for the next two

Strewth! What happened to the wings???

Yes modern cars that have BMS system can be a problem, the engineers decided to save load on the engine from the Alternator they would reduce the charge on a new battery. But as the battery ages it would ramp up depending a complex set of condition. But if a new battery is fitted and you do not reset the BMS system it can overcharge a new battery, because it does not know you have fitted a new battery. Some of the German cars have coding on new batteries and the BMS/ ECU must be told the necessary parameter. Bottom line on some cars fitting a new battery and not have the car coded to suit can damage the new battery.

Roll on summer? Or at least a bit of warm, dry and calm weather 🙂

Not able to get up to take off speed.

ill add my 2p as well. I can see that if you had 2 identical models, but one was a brick, it might be less stable than its lighter mate when flown at the same speed as it would need a greater aoa, but generally weight is not a factor as long as the model is within the range of weights appropriate for its size. On reynolds and all that...ehhh its pretty much meaningless unless we are building exact scale replicas with identical wing sections etc. As we dont tend to do that, just forget it and move on. As a side note, most model warbirds tend to have over size tails to 'improve stability'. I have a big problem with this as making the tail bigger also makes the elevator bigger, and thus more effective. This makes an already sensitive model more sensitive leading to excess nose weight to tame the beast. I believe this larger tail idea is a hangover from the free flight days when the bigger tail would have probably been an asset. However, now we have our dumb thumbs on the controls the static stability of the aircraft is less important as we are able to correct deviations we do not like. With this in mind i built my little hurricane with a scale (or more scale) tail on it and i have no stability problems with it, and my elevator movements are still very small. So take that modelling folk lore. I advocate scale tails and rearward c/g in the pursuit of model warbird bliss. Oh and i cant be bothered with side or down thrust either. Mount it straight and use the tall waggly thing on the back.

I used them for a new battery for our campervan, which was also used infrequently. Excellent and quick service.

Not sure if anyone's ever mentioned a very important safety related issue.....................Never, ever, say "I'll just have one more flight" - you might just about get away with........ "I'll have another" "but keep absolutely schtum about uttering "one more flight"!!!!

If it's working, why do you need to update the firmware? What extra functions do you need?

You cannot give up after all the fun you have had so far! All you need to do is go back a few posts, hone the cylinder with a taper and make a new piston, honed to a tight fit just above the exhaust port. Wear it in by the process of backwards and forwards rotation, until it goes over TDC, You will then have the compression that is needed. Take a few days off and come back to it with a fresh outlook. Think of the pleasure you will get when it first fires!! Keith.

Another useful tool here . The sanding drum . Makes lightwork of the edges and tidies up nicely . Just fits in a standard drill chuck . That is pretty much it . Apologies for mine looking rough , but I'm sure you appreciate I dont really have time for hanging about . I reckon you could do the whole lot in an hour if pushed . But to be fair .......Ive done a few . Any questions?

The ribs need to be flush or nearly flush with the bottom wing skin . When you are entirely satisfied with the fit . , brush some water into the cuts and then add the laser cut mount with golden gorilla glue . It will expand to make a really good grip on the foam . You can sand off nay slightly proud bits later . The kits will also include some strips of ply to line the wheel wells . I have a stock of plastic wheel wells , but never found them easy to fit or convenient . They work better on built up wings , but even then they have snags . Wood is easy as it glues well and is quick to fit . Later you will see that I lined the bottom of the wheel well with a cardboard disc.

Next thing is to remove the skin where you have drawn the lines. Although I've shown a knife , my weapon of choice is the cut off hacksaw blade . The fine point goes round corners really well , less chance of cutting yourself too. Just don't go through the top wing skin and ruin your paint job . Next thing is to scoop out the foam . For many years , I use to heat up an old undercarriage leg over the gas cooker ring and scoop out the foam . Then some genius invented the solder gun . This one is £19 on Amazon and you can change the "bit " to a bigger and squarer piece of wire which is superb for scooping out foam . (I understand you can do soldering with it too 😉)

In the pack , you will also get an A4 overlay which aligns with the wing centre line and the leading edge . First , you need to cut out the shape shown . Then holding it in the right position , draw round the inside with a black pen . Easy , so far isnt it ?

Right , lets get back to the business of putting retracts in the FW190 . As Paul says , we are waiting for wheels from a well known wholesaler , but I have a few stashed for those that are chomping at the bit . The retract kit will comprise of : Laser cut wooden parts for the mount . 2x servoless retract units . Pre formed 8swg legs with coil spring to protect the units . 70mm lightweight wheels , star dome captive wheel retainers , wheel doors and Y lead . Price will be hopefully £59.90 You can see some of the main items below. The laser cut mounts only have four parts , but the each wing will have a mirror version of the other , so take time to glue them together appropriately . For instance , the key hole rib must be inner most on both sides and the main mount plate must have the circular recess for the coil spring rearward . When you see the following posts , this will become more obvious . I would recommend using epoxy or golden Gorilla glue throughout .

This will make a nice paperweight! It will NOT start no matter what I do or try. Do not feel inclined to keep on trying as I feel there simply is not enough compression to get to the ideal mixture. In the meantime I've bought another design to make on the Drummond. It is a 1933 design spark ignition, 6.3cc and more complex to machine. Tinkering is better than using. The audience has all but dissipated now, so thanks for following the adventure, and a special thanks to those who have guided my progress on my first engine. I won't do a thread on the next engine. 73T 911 Cou