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Some great models on show. Here is one of my favourite images - to be viewed while listening to the theme from 'Top Gun' ?

Search by location is working, you do need to select a location with some ads posted though. ? No hack or breakdown, although a recent DNN update changed the appearance of all the pages but I'm working through it. Hoping to launch the new website and classifieds service around the time of the BMFA AGM.

A friends E-flite FW 190. Maidened this morning and flew very nicely although take offs and landings were a but sketchy.

Builders, Pilots and their models...

Winter project was this Trislander based on Robin Fowler's 80" plan. Motors as recommended by George at 4-max (thanks) on 9"x 4.5" props. Used a single 3s 6000mAh battery. Flies really nicely. I just need to brush up on my landings. It put on some weight with the mods I did and came out at 12.6lbs, but it would not fit in the car otherwise.

No idea Roy, who'd you get the free stickers off ? ?

Do you know , that having started Warbirds in 1995 , the La7 has been the best selling kit overall ? Isnt that weird ? I made the original for myself , because at the time you couldnt buy one anywhere . Even a primitive plan was hard to obtain . Who would have thought , that a company called "Warbirds" had a best seller of a prototype that virtually nobody knew about ?

I now use a LiFe battery in my Taranis but when I did use Nimhs I used the Tx to discharge & measured the useable time of the battery. System was to disable the inactivity alarm, reset one of the timers to zero & set the low volt alarm to 6V. Fully charge the Tx in the normal way then leave Tx unused until next day. Switch the Tx on, make sure the timer's running & leave within earshot whilst getting on with whatever the day brings. When the LV alarm sounds you now have a real life measure of the battery's discharge duration which is more meaningful than it's AmpHrs capacity. PS I used the same system in 35 MHz days.

This battery university article is worth a read. Having read it it would appear you may need to go lower than 1V/cell to get the best effect, though it is a little woolly on the behaviour of NiMHs vs NiCds... https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-807-how-to-restore-nickel-based-batteries Thsi is also interesting and compares the two chemistries. In some ways I preferred NiCds tbh, they were pretty resilient blighters though black wire corrosion did seem more prevalent. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-203-nickel-based-batteries

Yep, do this periodically, but on my TXs that use Nimh, I can do it without removing them.

Definitely the Vanessa rig...

just ask for Vanessa

Lots of happy smiling faces there Phil, and a line up of great models. ?

First check that you have the right radio profile selected, next the on the menu line select 'Help' then 'Check for updates'. Usually the OpenTX file is downloaded automatically if you have selected the right TX profile after updating Companion but you can give it a nudge. If not running as 'Administrator' when downloading and saving the OpenTX update I've had to save it in documents, no doubt something I've messed up in permissions. If you get this, check where you've saved the download and use the 'load' button to point the updater to the correct file.

I was in the battery industry for 16 years and I know these stories are always just a way of begging for investment because it takes a lot of money to turn a laboratory development into a commercial product. It took a giant like Sony to commercialise the lithium ion battery back in the 90s.

Wow ! That is an incredible line up of some amazing aircraft. You PSSA guys have got something really special going on, well done. Gonna have to join you with the next build I think

Different people will have different ways to fit those fillets to the fin. My way would be to sand fillets to shape using the scrap T pieces, then cover them ( if film covered ) and later attach them to the already covered fin. Then glue fin with fillets to tailplane. Tailplane would have been covered and affixed to fuselage with the glue fully hardened before I glued fin on top. This would all give time to align tailplane parallel to wing seat and then fin vertical to tailplane and fitting flush to fuselage. One joint at a time and let it set. PVA or Aliphatic gives time to adjust the fit and wipe the excess glue off the film. Having seen a clubmates tailplane break in flight due to 'nicking' the balsa when trimming film to allow bare balsa for glue area - I am very careful to not make that mistake!

Despite some small problems I am delighted that my Fury FJ3 was able to get to the event. What a great bunch of people - knowledgable and helpful. Sadly missing some major contributors, i hope we can catch up in the future. Below are pictures taken for the event. When I set out the plane was to be a well used FJ3M as scale as I could muster. It was a sharp learning curve with lots of mistakes, some which made it through to the end ? The pictures show the scale shape of the nose and 6-3 wing plus the canopy which is all very different to the Sabre. Thoroughly delighted with this but the weight impact was significant. Gun ports are made with plasticard painted silver and recessed into the groove. The canopy opens to reveal the detailed cockpit and Captain Grey strapped in to a scale ejector seat. The gunsights and instruments are detailed with custom made photo quality decals. Furthur back we have the airbrakes - again different to the F86 and they are made with internal detail courtesy of plasticard (Dirk you may notice similarities in our approach !) The hydraulic piston is made from plasticard with ball joints at each end. The fuselage was painted with Tamiya AS16 on top and AS20 underneath. The panel lines and grubby bits were then detailed with dark umber to simulate the grime of an aircraft in servce. The markings are made with printed decals, in future I will use a different method. A close up shows the detailng around the tailplane, a section that IMO worked well. The tailplane is a different shape to the F86 (it would be wouldn't it!) and also has stiffeners which are detailed. The tailplane was shaped with reference to photos and models plus the excellent monogaph by Steve Ginter. The rudder is white as seen on many FJ3M images, probably through maintenace work. Also included is a photo with the AIM-9B sidewinders, these will remotely detatch - well thats the plan. Andy Meade is able to supply all versions of the missile and so I will be looking to him to provide my ordnance. The parting shot shows her 'On the ground in formation' Perfect she isn't but all in all I am very happy with the effort, really happy, and one persons comment about her - 'That aeroplane looks the most used' - reassured me that my aim had been achieved. Thanks to everyone for your supporrt and encouragement.

Rigidity in the linkage is the main reason as far as i am concerned. Some would argue reliability but i dont consider that a factor as servo failure is very rare these days. If you wanted you could still use the torque rods but fit two servos in the middle. You could then do any flap mixing you feel you might need.