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Ok peeps we are GO go go to quote sir Murray gates will be open from 8am but unless you are keen to help set up 8:30 onwards is good for anyon not been before DE6 1LR is the closest postcode this will take yo fight past the site entrance which once you enter Ladyhole Lane yes really of the main derby ashbourne road is less tha half a mile on your left and will be manned until 10 am at least any problems call me on 07971669901 and I will open up for you there’s plenty of space and breakfast will be on from 9 ish do bring a warm coat as even given the temp on weather forecast Ashbourne airfield was the highest raf station in uk I believe see you all Sunday I will check for any problems weather wise that may sneak up but not anticipating any chris

As you can see I have airbrushed on firstly Ocean Grey on top of the fuselage, then Dark Green. I know a lot of people don't free hand airbrush camouflage, but at the end of the day that is how it was applied in the war. They just sprayed the colours on. They didn't spend hours masking off colours. The edges are meant to be feathered, so I follow the same procedure. I used the finer needle valve nose cap to the airbrush as it comes with 2. It is important not to open up the paint valve too high, and to keep the air pressure between 20 and 30psi - lower the better. Closer to the model for sharper lines. I am getting the hang of this now. I use Vallejo Air paints which are brilliant because they don't need any dilution. And the Iwata Airbrush is worth all the money it cost. I normally spend hours trying to mask round the canopy panel lines. This time, I masked off the whole canopy then cut out the areas to be painted, which was much quicker. I didn't spray the whole top of the fuselage with Ocean Grey but overlapped it slightly as grey is the correct undercoat for green. I then masked off the yellow lines to the leading edge, but first gave 2 coats of white undercoat as yellow would not make any impression on grey and green.

Just had an email from the club sec and the event is ON this Sunday, so be there ? ...or here, depending on where you are now. Geoff

Most of the outer formers now fitted plus a trial fit of the cowl one. Considering that this was presumably a hand drawn plan, then certainly redrawn, the shapes transferred to paper templates then balsa and sawn out, they have proven to be quite accurate. The fus. cross pieces at the rear needed a little massaging to avoid making a banana but I am quite happy with it so far. Not looking forward to sheeting that lot.

Just Engines

kinda makes a mockery of saving the planet etc.... ken anderson...ne..1..two faced dept.

Is the engine installed upright? and were you using an electric starter? If so, and the symptom was that the engine spun briefly on the starter and then came to an abrupt halt spitting the prop in the process my money is on hydraulic lock. Most often this is caused by excess fuel in the exhaust from tank over filling. That's my shot in the dark! On the op, force engines are ok. Used them in my model cars for ages.

Piston looks OK but has a bit of blow by but having been hot that may have cured it self. I'm still suspecting a thin lacquer coating in the spraybay. It may look clean .BUT give it a soak in acetone (nail polish ) overnight then the string /or something pulled through and a Q tip in the wider part .It doesn't take much lacquer nor to clean it either. You may not see anything happen but you could be surprised afterwards when tried again later. Also soak the piston and liner in Acetone/Amyl acetate/ Thinners overnight then quick up and down twisting motion with 0000 grade wire wool. Clean up with a magnet . In case any wire wool bits left behind. Good luck. John O/T

Hi All, I recently acquired a brand new Irvine 53 Mk2 (Japanese version, silver cowl). Ran it in on bench with about 1L of fuel per instructions, got the ABC lining nice and warm for short periods etc. All absolutely flawless. After run in would turn over nicely and freely with a finger and had a nice compression. I put it in a model and tried to start it, it popped and looked to start but I noticed the prop was slipping a little so obviously stopped to tighten the lock nut. Issue was that the prop was locking against the spinner backplate but not the prop hub on the engine allowing the latter to rotate slightly. (I ran it in without a spinner on my bench). So, the issue... I tightened the prop nut until the spinner backplate and prop hub actually locked. This required more torque than I would normally expect but done by only a small 6" spanner so I didn't think excessive. However, now when I go to turn over the engine it is stiff through the entire cycle to the point you can hardly detect it going over TDC. In no way does it feel like it would be safe to start. I've check it without spinner, e.g. just prop on hub + nut and exactly same stiffness so something has changed mechanically in the engine. I've check there was no contact with the cowl inducing friction and I've checked the engine wasn't flooded (it wasn't and did turn over, just suddenly very stiffly). So, I've broken it - but exactly what have I done!? Edited By Scruffmeister on 16/09/2017 15:50:34

Posted by TigerOC on 14/01/2015 16:03:02: Posted by kc on 14/01/2015 15:54:54: It's Marco Ter Beest who is taking over production rather than Steve isn't it? Or have I got it wrong? Well done kc. This is the second forum where the bearer of the news has been credited with the acquisition. Perhaps is would have been clearer in both cases to have used quotes. Rob Perhaps forums should be upgraded to ETSI 328 1.8.1 so that LBT was always applied to posts.

Its the weekend, lovely hot sunny day, not a cloud in the sky and 20-40mph wind So time for some sanding and an update I have glued the tail feathers together and adjusted the tail plane seat so that everything is square and the incidences are correct. I also reinforced the seat a little with 1.5mm ply doubler. I then tidied up a few bits and pieces like the snake exits and prepped the fuse for glassing. Its amazing what shapes you can get the cloth to conform to. And on to the sanding, I was correct in that the bottom of the wing could have done with a little more resin in the flow coat. I managed to go through the weave at one high spot. How do you remedy this ? or do you just spray the primer other it ? I am about 95% there with the initial sanding down of the wing ready for primer and I must say I am quite impressed with the finish I have got