Leaderboard

Well it is finished and ready to test when the wind drops to civilised levels and the temperature rises above freezing and the mud dries out enough to cross to the field without bogging down. 33" span a bit over 2 sq feet of area. Weighs just over 16 ounces This view shows the battery location This shows the ESC mounting.Plenty of cooling there The control set up is simple and possibly crude but it works. Power train is one of the £25 complete packages from4 Max Yellow panels are simply covering film covering the access to the Rx and satellite rx Hey, I managed to set out the pictures properly!!

The outer cowls were masked using the cut masks and 3mm tape over the pre-applied coat of silver to create the cheat line, and then further masked where the black is going to go. I think that applying the silver first was a mistake as it showed through the red when that went on. I had to apply 5 coats of red to obscure the silver. That would normally be ok if the part was a single colour or if any masking is to be removed while the paint is wet, but as I didn't want to remove the cheat line masks until after the black has been sprayed, the build up of paint will probably show a distinct edge once the tape is removed. We won't know until later. If nothing else, I learned that provided the weather is dry, spraying can go ahead when the temperature is 4C. I also learned that flies will come out even at that temperature!

The scale underside bits. All made in 5 mm XPS. The "Sabrinas" are surprisingly big but then each had to hold 300 30mm cartridge cases. The underside air brake looks (and was) a bit of an afterthought literally mounted on the fuselage underside. It obviously worked well enough as it was never changed in all the 1900+ Hunters that were built. Still waiting for the paint!

Time to give some thought to the layout internally of the electronics. I am using a separate 2S power source for the RX (as the ESC is an Opto version). The Hitec servos are 6volt operating limit there I will use a voltage regulator with an in line switch. I can then check the working surfaces without the motor being "live" and just use heavy duty connectors to connect the motor directly to a 6S lipo. I can then try various positions for the lipos to get the CoG where I want it on the next workshop visit.

Fitting everything together was a bit of a faff. I first bolted on the wheel axles which was simple enough and then marked and drilled out the spats. I had to fit the collets and wheels loosely before adding the spat bolts/nuts as the wheels and collets can't be added latterly. A flat spanner and allen key were used to bolt the spats on, using blue thread lock of course. The collets were then lined up to allow for free running wheels with the grub screws blue thread locked.

Here it is ? https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=13544

I can vouch for that. The flick roll rate on Peggy Sue is rather alarming, to say the least... As was landing it with the flight battery hanging out after I'd flick-rolled it free from it's mount! She's a gentle lady until provoked. Much like Mrs D....

Hi Geoff, No and I'm not sure how to do that?. Yeah they're not cheep but having just bought a Saito radial I shouldn't complain too much! If I look after it, it should do a few seasons. Cheers, Marty

Really enjoying your build Earlybird. I was recommended the Rhapsody by Peter at the start of the year after building the Ballerina (which I loved) but then went away with work for the past 8 months so only just getting sorted again. I got a plan enlarged to make it 70" as well since I think it would look even better and really grab attention at that size, especially with its elliptical wing. Definitely high up my to-do list so thanks for starting a thread. I had noticed when i looked before that there were very few example out there Gary

Another good session today on the A-10... The recently glassed nose section was cut back with medium paper and has had 2 good coats of filler primer with a focussed sanding in-between after a 24hr wait for it to fully harden. Surface is looking pretty good, just a few low spots still to address... In between waiting for the primer to harden each time round I've done a bit more glassing - tailplane lower surface this time and I've added some resin to the lite-ply end caps on the elevators and rudders - areas that dont naturally receive glass but still need to be painted. I'll soon have all these parts in primer too now I hope.

Hi Ernie, My Falcon was completed late in 2021, and is powered by an OS56a four stroke, with a 14x4 prop. It takes off in a few feet at little more than half throttle, and does most of the flights at 1/3 throttle. Full throttle is used only occasionally, for an odd (very odd!) loop or roll. No need to overpower it! Steve.

There is little tangible benefit in endless cycling for testing purposes - best to use the packs and monitor the key data - IMO it's best practice to monitor the individual cell voltage after each flight and I also routinely check it before each flight. Personally I've never noted, looked at, or considered the percentage charged -for me it's the measured voltage that matters -introducing the display of that information as a percentage is just making a completely unnecessary interpolation of the data, probably assuming a simple linear relationship. Whilst there is undoubtedly going to be variation in the absolute accuracy of the meters and battery checkers in use, you are really looking for changes in the values and any trends which might illuminate deterioration of your packs. The Reaktor chargers display the individual cell voltages during and after charging with a single press of one of the buttons.

Delivered today and no extra charges.

The answers given by the BMFA and others look entirely reasonable and consistant with the way it has been for ever, can't see the issue myself, however, paying your own would solve what you see as a problem. Pay yourself or via your club ? Swings and roundabouts for me. Our club ? Pay yourself if you want, or via the club, no drama either way. Date on my doc ? Couldn't care less, The BMFA tells me I'm insured from when I pay my club, they know their job, good enough for me.

Happy New Year all! I've managed to get some A-10 glassing done over the Christmas period - the nose section is now ready for final sanding and primer as are the fins, rudders, elevators, ailerons and flaps. Started with some fiddly glassing around the battery hatch and gun housing. Then the underside, keeping the seams and resultant overlaps on the radiused corners. The dark patches are where there isn't enough PVA on the surface of the brown paper and it starts to soak up some of the resin... Top section again with the seam position marked on the tight radius for ease of blend. The final piece! A small foam roller was used on the bigger surface areas once the cloth was laid out with the Jenny brush - very effective and leaves a nice even resin coat.