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Showing content with the highest reputation on 16/02/22 in all areas

  1. Hi Guys My latest creation. Nothing special, an SLEC Fun Fly, but it is the first ic model I have built in years. OS 40FP up front. If the wind and rain ever clears hope to maiden it soon. Wish me luck Jeff
    7 points
  2. So I am still sanding. Sanding and filling. Filling and sanding. Nearly there though !
    4 points
  3. Well I finally got round to doing the odd bits that needed doing. Just needs a motor, lipo, prop to finish off. Quite pleased with how it turned out. I owe a lot to Peter Miller for inspiration and pinching construction ideas!!
    3 points
  4. It's not an elegant job but it's coming back together. Bit of a 3D jigsaw puzzle!
    3 points
  5. Had a play with the flap actuating lever, couldn't believe how long the beast is, almost the width of the door! The torque bar operates the starboard side on the full size. Cheers "trapped in the cockpit" Danny
    2 points
  6. Following a few issues, I now hate Y-leads! Favoured option: separate channels for ultimate flexibility. Option 2: change servo arm orientation Option 3: servo reverser on one 'leg' of Y-lead. Not worth changing plugs or fiddling with servo IMHO.
    2 points
  7. I think it was witchcraft.... I well remember the Fournier at Woodvale in 1978 when Mick kindly demonstrated the cockpit details. You can see it here, starting at 3mins 45 seconds:
    2 points
  8. I agree with Steve. Why do people complain that things are "too expensive". I can understand commenting, but to actually complain is stupid. I have just had a belly full on ebay from people complaining I was asking too much for some kits I was selling. My stock answer was that I don't have to sell them but if I did, that was my price. If somebody else values it the same then fine. As far as dealers are concerned, that is their job and (usually) they know their market. Putting a ridiculous price on something may draw out a seriously interested buyer, with whom they will then strike a deal (probably off ebay).
    2 points
  9. It's been done before. Please don't open that can of worms again, just read it and move on. Steve
    2 points
  10. Haven’t posted for a while so here goes. Made the first split flap and I must say I’ve rather enjoyed it. I’ve never built a split flap and further more not from G10. It’s built from .030 G10 for the main flap and the components are .020. Only 1/4” at its thickest it’s quite fiddly to profile the balsa ribs (matchsticks!!!). This will be getting attached with a 5/8” wide or 34mm continuous brass piano hinge with no 4 wood screws. I think once it’s prepared & painted it’ll really look good. Kit should be arriving any day and I can’t wait!
    2 points
  11. Kyosho Spitfire refurb just about completed ready for a maiden. Just the tailwheel, some dummy doped on gun port covers and a 3D printed aerial mast to add. I might give the model a light mist of polyurethane to seal in the weathering/panel lines which were added in pencil. Graphics from Callie Graphics and I'm impressed by their quality and the rather nice positioning carrier film which made the application relatively trouble free.
    2 points
  12. I,m lucky I got diagnosed early so treatment will work. Spread the word get tested for prostate cancer if you are over 50 it is usually a blood test for PSA which is prostate specific antigens if it is raised for your age further tests may be recommended, The sneaky thing about prostate cancer there are no symptoms until it's well advanced then your are in for a unpleasant end to your life. Even if you have to have a DRE (Digital Rectal Examination) it is no big deal and a whole lot better than dying .
    1 point
  13. My March issue of RCM&E including my review of the Vogel-Fly BOO dropped through the letter box this morning ? It’s been a while since I sent it in and I’ve been thoroughly enjoying flying my BOO more and more since then, it has become one of my favourite slope soarers. I just love the geodetic wing construction, the cute looks, ease of transport and, of course, the fabulous flying performance. I think Christian has come up with a real winner!! During many enjoyable trips to the slope I’ve done lots more testing and tweaking and thought I’d start a thread here to share…. First things first, the latest kits have evolved a little since I did the review and there are a couple of additions that need mentioning. Vertical webs are fitted between the spars in the first rib bays outside of the joiner boxes. Early versions of the manual say use scrap material in the first two bays but the latest kits have laser cut webs which just need cutting to fit in the first four rib bays. The webs are slightly tapered; the little hole on the left indicates the root end. There is an additional part to the building jig to hold the fuz perfectly level while the V-tail is glued in place. Back to the flying….I was a little worried about the tiny LiPo packs capacity with four servos and an Rx to keep happy so I’ve been checking the capacity left in the 280mAh 2S pack after a flying session. I recon the radio gear is consuming around 70mA per hour so I’ll be quite happy flying for a couple of hours per pack and still have around 50% left as a contingency. My 41mm CG feels just right to me so I’ve kept that. I slightly modified the CG balance frame included in the kit by adding a 2mm spacer in each leg to move the CG back to 41mm when BOO is loaded into the CG balancer. Whilst flying some more, I’ve tweaked the throws a little as follows: Rudder throw increase from 4mm to 6mm helps coordinated aileron/rudder turns in light lift and improves wing overs/stall turns. The elevator throw feels about right to me, giving nice tight loops. I tried various amounts of snapflap to see if it made any difference to the performance. Around 50% snapflap has a marginal effect, slightly tightening an already rather tight loop and producing slightly snappier pylon turns if F3F slope racing is your thing! TBH I don’t use it much though! Increasing the aileron throw by 15% adds a little more sparkle to the rolls! Setting the aileron / flaperon throws is a bit tricky with such a small wing – we’re talking fractions of mm!! As a result I made up a little throw indicator jig which fits into the fuselage building jig and is held in place with a clamp or tape. o When using, first set the ailerons so the underside of the wing and the ailerons are perfectly flat and level – this sets the neutral. o Fit the model into the building jig with the underside of the wings firm against the seats and the aileron indicator positioned against the throw indicator jig. The tolerances are so close it might be necessary to adjust the positioning with the clamp/tape until the neutral lines up. o The throws can then be adjusted. Once done, move the jig onto the second wing and repeat. o Hopefully the attached pdf can be printed off if you would like to do the same.Aileron Throw Template.pdf Ballasting the BOO has a noticeable and beneficial effect. Especially in wind speeds above 15mph. I cut three ballast sheets from 2mm thick lead which are sandwiched between the wing and the fuz as seen in the photos. One, two or three are used depending on the wind strength. Slightly longer wing bolts are required if all three are used. Each sheet weighs 20g and, thanks to the shape, they don’t affect the CG when fitted!! With all three added the weight increases by about 35% which turns BOO into a proper pocket rocket!! The extra weight adds valuable inertia to enable energy sapping manoeuvres like bunts to be completed. Following one over exuberant but thoroughly enjoyable fully ballasted flight in a 20mph wind I noticed the wing was loose!! I can’t be 100% sure but I think the extra weight and higher G forces had caused the wing bolts to slip a thread!! As a result and purely in the interest of “belts & braces” I have now drilled out the original tapped holes and glued in a pair of captive “T” bolts. This is totally unnecessary for a dry airframe and possible is with the ballast too but I like to air on the side of caution!!
    1 point
  14. Yes, all 4 servos are the same type. All JR digitals, all the same spec.
    1 point
  15. The weather has helped a little no flying so I have made some progress on the Mosquito, Bolt on wings on a foam board plane took a bit of working out. They have not been joined yet as I don't know if I should use one or two batteries it all depends on the final weight and C of G.
    1 point
  16. Oh, it's certainly not up to that standard and I would need to completely redesign it, there are a lot of areas where the plan didn't work and I had to bodge it. Aileron shape was really dictated by trying to get more area as far outboard as possible. Flutter was a possibility so they are solid, but I made a rubbish job of them. But, it's all my own work, so even if it does no more than fly "ok" and get consigned to the cupboard of bad experiences, then I'll have learned a lot from it. I can draw some very pretty aeroplane shapes, but making those into actual aeroplanes is another story altogether!
    1 point
  17. Flat plate wings do work on the slope. My Tony Nijhuis Hawk (a contemporary to the Westfield kits) has done lots of flying. There is a Cambrian F86D in the PSSA that is waiting for a maiden. No reason to suppose it won't go well in the right conditions as it is similar to the mass build Sabre. You just need a good slope and some good lift and most things will go!
    1 point
  18. I have completed the survey linked to by the BMFA. I would encourage others to do likewise. It's much simpler than the consultation documents previously put forwards for the new EASA/CAA flying regulations and only took me about 10 minutes to complete. This is a further proposed restriction to our activities, penalising us when we are not at any fault. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with my Yamada YS110 if I can't buy 20% nitro fuel any more.
    1 point
  19. I have sorted it. I turn it off ?
    1 point
  20. It always astonishes me that when a modeller finds something wrong their default position is that its someone else's fault. Clearly they could never have made a mistake as they know better than everyone, including the people who build the product they just bought, so it must need fixing if something is not right. 5 seconds looking at the problem (or...the instructions) would have probably revealed the situation. But nooo. cant stop and think, someone pass me the chain saw. ?
    1 point
  21. To remove the backing, sellotape a corner, and pull the backing off, works every time. Not my idea, someone on this forum told me.
    1 point
  22. I have used HK film exclusively, but, as it's been difficult to get (different suppliers may have stock but not necessarily the colour needed) I looked for some white, light blue and darker blue. I found the MacGregor film at RCWorld in Wales. As far as I can tell it's exactly the same as the HK/RapidRC/RC Life covering. This is my nearly finished Galaxy Hornet Twin. The darker blue is called Sapphire and is a metallic finish. The white and light blue are solid colours. I'm very pleased with the outcome. The maiden will be later in the year when the weather improves! GDB
    1 point
  23. It’s such a shame that the engine will never take to the air and will remain an “investment” until enough of us have slipped the surly bonds of earth and it becomes just a curio or is simply left to rot, forgotten in the back of a drawer.
    1 point
  24. Thanks chaps, yes Alan I just cannot resist. It's not accurate Cymaz, those brackets are the wrong shape, the pulleys should be behind the tubes.... But thank you anyway ? Cheers Danny
    1 point
  25. Did a little more, still trapped in the cockpit mind you...... Added the aileron pulleys and cables, not terribly accurate but gives the feel. Cheers Danny
    1 point
  26. Just to add that I had looked at other videos and they seemed to be a bit complicated. They generally mention bootloaders, download this or that firmware, move over a couple of files or you will not have the models, etc. They also tend to use a USB lead connected between the TX and PC which is not required in the above. As long as you are able to fit the micro-SD card in your PC/Laptop then fairly straight forward. The only hiccup i came across is the "EdgeTx Flasher" screen has changed but it was easy to find what's needed. In the video you just need to basically put 2 files onto your SD card and then follow the instructions. ? Grumpy Gnome - I must say I prefer the model selection screen on my old Taranis as it's just a list compared with the "boxes" on the TX16S. I don't need images just the name of the model but I do like the touch screen which is a good trade off. I've a bit to learn on how to navigate the various screens and menus but it will exercise my old brain for a bit. ?
    1 point
  27. I don't know the specific ins and outs of ADS-B but I would assume a reliance on a CRC for entire transponder packet for the over air comms. Plus there would be regular retransmission. Etc. Ground side, any ATC systems dealing with the IDs will be 278A cat 1 with lots of internal consistency checks. For unmanned IDs, maybe lower grades of software will be dealing with those IDs, so a built in checksum was considered a sensible defence against certain possible misbehaviours of less strictly written and reviewed software.
    1 point
  28. Sorry, no experience of these Perry but how well they perform as gliders on the slope might depend on the wing section used. I looked at the Flair ‘Jet Set’ Lightening back in the day but it’s very thick flat bottomed wing section put me off a bit although their Hawker Hunter flew well by all accounts. these Cambrian models appear to be out of stock unless you have access to an old kit.
    1 point
  29. No they all have codes in this format: ICAO 24 bit aircraft address: Binary: 0100_0000_0100_0010_1011_1110 Hex: 4042BE Octal: 20041276
    1 point
  30. I just bought some from ebay. £3 for enough to last years.
    1 point
  31. Followed this Youtube video and now have Edge on my TX16S. A short play with it and all seems well. Used a spare card and still have the original just in case as well as saved to PC. Not tried it but appears to transfer back to Open Tx easily.
    1 point
  32. I used E10 in my car and noticed a big drop in MPG and performance. I now only use E5 ultimate which is much more expensive, however I am now getting much better MPG and performance. You pays your money and takes your choice. I will only use E5 in my garden machinery because of the warning about damage to carb and tank seals.
    1 point
  33. So the oils on the pilot figure are touch dry so I continued with some lowlights. Again in oil so unfortunately a 2 week wait for the paint to dry ***Sigh*** but in fairness it has blended very well so I am not too concerned. Bit rough but better than my usual efforts. Cheers Danny
    1 point
  34. 32gb card will be fine, you will just have lots of empty space. I've used 16 and 32gb cards with no problems. The general consensus is not to use the original card supplied with the set as they are deemed to be unreliable. Well worth switching to edge tx too as it makes programming and the radio much easier and if you don't like it you can go back to open tx.
    1 point
  35. Maidened four weeks ago and flown almost every weekend since, my latest creation which I have named "Sati're". It is a Tiger 60 with a Saturn SE wing and horizontal stabilizer, suitably stretched to fit. Span is at 72 inch excl. the tip tanks, which are removable for transport. Electric retracts to keep things sleek. Flaps for steep landing approaches, although they are really not necessary. Powered by an ST61, I realized half way through the build that it was getting a bit big and heavy for the .61 (takeoff weight is more than 4.6Kg) but I was in too deep not to see the project through. As expected, power is, well, adequate....and it will remain like that since it actually flies really well, no doubt due to a pattern ships wing section. The look I was after was something akin to the Aermacchi MB326 (Known as the Impala in South Africa) and the Marchetti SF260, all with a vertical Stabilizer from a Mooney.
    1 point
  36. Just a year since I was diagnosed with stage 2/3 Prostate Cancer. I had had regular "finger" examinations, up to about 3 years ago as I had for some time had a need to get up during the night for a pee. Findings were only of a slightly enlarged Prostate, no need to worry. Need to get up during the night increased to 2 sometimes 3 times, mentioned this to doctor, PSA test followed immediately which showed significantly raised PSA levels. Immediate referral to Urology department at Churchill Hospital Oxford. MRI and Multipoint biopsy followed quickly, then offered either surgery or radiotherapy plus hormone treatment. I chose surgery, 4.5 hour keyhole surgery, home next day a few weeks recuperation and almost back to normal. 8 Weeks from referral to Surgery, can't praise the Churchill team enough, they were brilliant. A year on and all is clear. If you're over 50 PSA tests are available on demand, so if in doubt get tested, it's only a simple blood test and might avoid the consequences of Prostate Cancer. Ian
    1 point
  37. Thanks for sharing and very true. I am what the system calls "Well Worried", and get tested annually. Not bothered what the tests involve, much better than not knowing.
    1 point
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