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David Davis

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Everything posted by David Davis

  1. Welcome from me too Chris. You've made the right decision to join a club.
  2. Every year I compete in a daft competition for a three-channel French trainer. It is known as La Coupe Des Barons or the Barons' Cup in English. You are allowed to make alterations to the structure and dimensions of the original model providing that they remain within 10% of the original design. I have two Barons, Boris in Ukrainian markings and Bertie with the British roundels. If I were to crash one shortly before the event then I'd have a reserve aircraft. This actually happened last year! This year I built a new wing for Bertie, using depron for the wing ribs. The completed model is fully 4 ozs (113 grammes) lighter than my Ukrainian Baron which is stock and built from a kit. For the 2025 competition I am thinking of building a new lighter fuselage and tailplane for Bertie using depron for the tailsurfaces in order to save yet more weight. The stock tailplane is made up of 1/4" (6mm) balsa. The model will be powered by a 52 fourstroke because I always compete in the fourstroke class and have given a prize to the leading pilot flying a four-stroke Baron for the last few years. I guess that I am quite famous being the only British entrant and a fourstroke devoté to boot! My question is, "How do you make a tailplane, fin and rudder out of depron sufficiently robust to withstand the flight stresses ofr a Baron in competition when powered by a 52 four-stroke?" Pictures below of the construction of a stock tailplane and the depron wing, and of Bertie and Boris ready for La Coupe. My dog is such a diva that she just had to get into the act!
  3. Both Bertie and Boris Baron are ready for La Coupe. There are a few cosmetic jobs to do but they are in serviceable condition I'm just waiting for the wind and rain to stop before flying them. Technical details: Bertie has a wingspan about 2.5 inches or 6cms bigger than standard, (my fault I changed the internal structure of the wing!) the airframe weight is 2.1kgs and the model is powered by a Magnum 52. Boris has the standard wing, weighs 2.2kgs and is powered by a Thunder Tiger 54. I'm told that my models are rather heavy. The weight of the four-stroke doesn't help of course but I used basswood for the fuselage longerons and though they have added weight, both models have crashed without the fuselage being damaged. My dog is such a diva that she has to photo-bomb at every opportunity!
  4. I must admit that although Bert thinks that the first question is clear enough I have no idea what José is writing about. If the original text were displayed maybe a fluent Spanish speaker could give us a better translation.
  5. "Edited 28 minutes ago by Martin Harris - Moderator Originally posted in Spanish. I have Auto translated it but the first question is unclear to me. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS AN ENGLISH LANGUAGE ONLY FORUM - please post any updates in English." Perhaps we have some Spanish speakers on this forum Martin who could do a better job of translating the original post.
  6. While you are absolutely right in your post kc, the OP is looking for a scale/semi-scale kit of a light aircraft suitable for his Saito 49. I regret that there are none of which I am aware but there are kit cutters who will supply most of the difficult parts for just about any model you care to mention, (I hate cutting out wing ribs myself!) leaving the builder to chose his own wood as you suggest, and to bend his own undercarriage. The OP's initial plan was to build a SLEC Sky 40 for his OS 40 FP, but I believe that he has now bought one ready made. He also planned to build a glider or electric powered glider and then to tackle a Ben Buckle Super 60 which will be powered by a PAW diesel engine. By the time he's done all of that, and with the help he may receive from his clubmates, he should be able to build a model from a short-kit. Just my opinion of course.
  7. If I were in your situation I would chose the RWD5 or the Luton Minor. Both of the designers are very well known. Nothing wrong with the Clipped Wing Cub except that they are so commonplace! 😏. Some of the models shown are designed for electric motors so you'd need to beef up the nose structure if you wanted to convert to i/c.
  8. How about this one? I've seen one fly and it flew beautifully. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/cessna-120-62/
  9. Not wishing to rain on your parade but it is quite a complex model with its eliptical wings and crutch-built stringered fuselage, besides it's a three channel vintage model and you'll already have one of those once you've built your Super 60 so it won't help you to advance your flying skills. The Barnstormer may be built as a four channel model with ailerons. I would suggest that you build a high or mid-wing model four channel model before the Cherokee. These fly well and would suit your engine: https://www.slecuk.com/funfly-kit
  10. Riding a sports bike at 72 kph Paul! No wonder you're too tired to drive to La Coupe Des Barons!
  11. PS. I sold my last bike last year. At seventy-six my knees are no longer up to managing a big bike especially with luggage and a pillion on the back. Mind you, one of those little SV 650s look interesting..
  12. This biplane may be a bit more suitable for your engine if it's not too basic looking for you. It's not currently in stock but a call to the owner will let you know when it's going to be avaiable. https://www.dbsportandscale.com/tinker-kit-7871-p.asp
  13. Welcome to the forum Craig. I'm glad you're going to join a club because you'll probably meet many like minded souls who'll help you in your aeromodelling career. I'm pleased that you've chosen to build a model stick by stick because that's what I enjoy doing. However, if you'll take a bit of unsolicitated advice from me, please learn to fly before you try to fly the Nieuport. Flying an r/c model is not as easy as it looks and I'd hate you to crash the model after you will have put so much time and effort into the build. Even the real Nieuport pilots didn't learn to fly on Nieuports did they? Leave it till your third or fourth model. The Sale club may well have a trainer which you can learn on while your transmitter is connected to an instructor's transmitter. It saves a lot of heart ache!
  14. I feel that both the biplanes are a bit small for a 49 four-stroke. Furthermore both models are designed for electric motors, consequently you will have to beef up the construction in the nose to allow for the greater vibration of an i/c engine and starter motor torque The Aeronaut Sky Maxx is a more appropriate size for your engine and it appears that there are instructions for building the model using an i/c engineso if it floats your boat go for it!
  15. Hooch, the OS 40FP has a cast iron piston in a cast iron bore, quite traditional technology though the cylinder is nikasil plated. While you will not wear this engine out very quickly, they apparently require quite a bit of running in but as you have bought this engine second hand, this has probably already been done. You may find the following interesting: https://sceptreflight.com/Model Engine Tests/OS Max 40FP.html
  16. Yesterday I hinged the rudder and elevator to the model. I used large Kavan pinned hinges and for the first time I used De Luxe Materials Superphatic glue as the adhesive. I had been impressed by the quality of this glue when building a wing for my Baron which featured depron wing ribs, also a first for me. Previously I had always used epoxy as the glue for hinges and I'd always applied some form of grease to the pivot before applying the glue. I usually used butter for this purpose! As Superphatic is a water based glue I did not bother with greasing the pivot. I placed five spots of Superphatic on each side of one leaf of each hinge. These were then inserted into the tailplane. Five more spots on each side of the other leaf then I fitted the elevator. I did the same with the rudder. By yesterday evening I was able to lift the model and wag it about holding on to the rudder and elevator! Thats without any pins or cocktail sticks. Note the usual immaculately tidy workshop! Having turned 76 earlier in the month I have decided to treat myself and the model to a white GRP undercarriage from Carbon Copy.
  17. Like Ernie I live too far away to be able to offer advice as to where to find a suitable "open flying area." However, I've lived most of my life in Shropshire and I used to fly from a farmer's field but preferred the companionship of a club. I only got permission to fly at that field because my best friend had a Private Pilot's Licence and he knew a farmer who also had a PPL and who had built a model aircraft as well. I wish you the best of luck in finding an "open flying area" but I can't understand your reluctance to join a club. In my experience any restrictions which a club imposes, not flying over certain areas for example, are there for the safety of club members and the general public. Perhaps you'll let us know how you get on. PS. I've held a motor cycle licece for sixty years.
  18. I flew my Baron yesterday. I still need to make a few adjustments to the throttle pushrod but otherwise it flew fine. I also took up my mate Frans on the buddy box on his electric powered Radio Queen. He's still putting in signals which are too coarse even after two years of instruction. Perhaps he needs a different instructor. I plan to fly my Super Frontier Senior, a SIG Kadet Senior ARTF clone this afternoon. I always thought that Spring started on 21st March.
  19. Glowplug for an SC 25, and any other two stroke for that matter? An OS No 8.
  20. Who will be be handling the sale of spare parts after the 22nd March Jon?
  21. Sad news. All the best for the future Jon.
  22. Just a heads up Hooch. In the olden days Solarfilm used to react to diesel fuel causing it to wrinkle. I believe that Oracover/Profilm will resist diesel fuel. Best check that the film you intend to buy will be compatible with diesel fuel. Solartex is compatible with diesel fuel.
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