2.4g Shaun

And for clarity, it's the negative lead that the corrosion creeps up . The wire insulation can be any colour but convention dictates that the -ve lead is generally black.

Nice to see a proper bit of aeromodelling. 👍

Hi Steve, One thing to watch, the clevises pins can be a point of failure when used on a metal horn. I've seen a number of 1/3rd scale WW1 models meet an untimely end due to this. I would either drill out and replace the pin with a steel bolt or use clevises that are already designed this way. Also the steel turnbuckles will be more robust than the brass ones.

Booked some tables again (as Rob mentioned above) to sell items I no longer use but buy even more stuff than I came with. Hope we get lots of sellers again. I'm trying to convince my dear wife this is how modellers recycle; not sure she's buying it though. 😄

Baildon is well out of LBA's NFZ. Check Altitude Angel. Where did you get the impression you couldn't fly there from?

Wildthing's are available again from Balsa Cabin. They have been working with Alan Head to get them back into production. Not the prettiest slope soarer ( they were originally designed for slope combat I believe ) but epically good in flight and extremely crash resistant. Every slope fan should have one. Great for getting used to new slopes or flying in testing conditions. As mentioned they survive hitting the slope with minimal damage that would re-kit most models.

Rather than buy fakes, why not buy Lemon rx's sold by a UK reseller. I've had nothing but good, reliable results, especially with the telemetry and gyro stabilised versions. Massive functionality, sensible price and quality manufactured (in house by lemon).

Here's another of my favourites. Scaled up Vic Smeed Coquette, Mk1 OS FS Gemini 120 twin. Covered in nylon, doped then sprayed with 2 pack. Built in the mid 1980's. Sold it a few years ago and regretted it.🙁

Cheers Andy, I was becoming. Increasingly worried after reading all the predictions from the wielders of the Swords of Damocles that the only way I would be able to fly in the future was glue my three 1/3 scale models into one airframe and take my PPL. Phew..

Ernie, try a model engineering supplier; the ones that supply live stream components etc. I bought a bag full of brass ones a number of years ago; very small diameter (10BA from memory) for a model. Not hex though, just a standard 6 sided head but would look very similar. Look one up and give them a try. Shaun

I got one of the prototype Kwiksilver plans from Dave at Baildon prior to publication. He told me a number of years ago it was someone at RCM&E who changed the name to Qu**** and never asked him when they published the plan. Great all round slope soarers and I personally preferred it to the popular Phase 6. Might just have to make another especially as I have a laser cut set of ribs for it.

Just got back from the swap meet. Great job by the YMAS lads. Warm, clean and tidy venue. The extremely cheap table or public entry price included hot drinks and biscuits served up by the delightful ladies in the canteen. It couldn't be faulted. Hopefully you'll run it next year. Can I book the same tables please. 😁

Just to add, when I said "go off quicker", I was referring to the shelf life of the product, not how quickly it will bond your fingers to the balsa. 😁

For general modelling use, inexpensive cyano is usually fine. There are a few truly dire ones around that seem reluctant to cure but the main difference between cheap and expensive brands is the purity of the glue. Cheaper ones have more filler in the blend and will go off quicker and tend to have less bond strength. I've used Screwfix cyano for years on models up to 1/3rd scale with 100% reliability. Cyano was never a problem for me; when I was much younger I worked in sales for Loctite and they used to fill up our car boots with samples of all their products.😉

Remember moisture causes cyano to cure. If keeping it in the fridge make sure it's lid is on tight.