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Bob Cotsford

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Everything posted by Bob Cotsford

  1. Just the normal Amber.zip download, note it doesn't go in the SD card Sounds/EN folder but straight in Sounds/ for Ethos. Post #3 here on RCGroups contains all the essential gen.
  2. Andy, the SD contents are the same for all Horus versions, there is only the choice of Horus or Tandem. As for size, 8 or 16GB is more than enough capacity. Not that there's much difference in price these days.
  3. When I had one 10 years(?) or so ago it was powered by an OS61SF with a minipipe. Main retracts were cheap Hobbyking electric units and the noseleg an E-Flite unit. Half the wheel sat proud when retracted but it meant I could get a 12oz DuBro tank in. It was my go-to heavy weather model!
  4. It picked the 2.3.14 version by default when I selected 'write firmware' for either tx Allan, so I don't think it's to do with having multiple profiles. I'll have to dig out my X9D to try that one too.
  5. Odd, I've just updated Companion to 2.3.14 and after installing it asked if I wanted to download the X10S OTX firmware (the profile selected). However, when I switched profiles to X12S it didn't and I had to use 'Help' - 'Check for Updates'. I've not used 'File' - 'Download', I'll have to give it a go!
  6. with the more weighty birds it's too easy to put a finger through the wing sheet when trying to lift on a finger tip!
  7. First check that you have the right radio profile selected, next the on the menu line select 'Help' then 'Check for updates'. Usually the OpenTX file is downloaded automatically if you have selected the right TX profile after updating Companion but you can give it a nudge. If not running as 'Administrator' when downloading and saving the OpenTX update I've had to save it in documents, no doubt something I've messed up in permissions. If you get this, check where you've saved the download and use the 'load' button to point the updater to the correct file.
  8. My only ED was a 349, that was a lovely brute that was always an easy starter but was never a bit of a slogger. I must admit that I have vivid (traumatic?) memories of fuel-filled prop cuts, mainly from a Frog 80 and from winter outings with Fok 15 and 25s which didn't like the cold. "Now where are my non rose tinted specs ." - and a white stick if you never had chapped, cracked hands or the odd infected prop cut!
  9. I'm not sure where you buy your candyfloss Jon, but the MT Laser I had didn't make me think of fairground treats!
  10. When I used to fly glow motors on Laser fuel my clubmates reckoned I was running them on recycled chip fat
  11. I'm sure Solarfilm stated somewhere that Prymol was only for original Solarfilm and didn't etch polyester films. I used Balsaloc on dodgy surfaces - gf, ply, plastics and the like.
  12. I wouldn't as it will give a dark outline with translucent films. If you doubt the film's grip on balsa you could paint the balsa tips, spar and t/e with Covergrip or similar.
  13. I've not had any problems with the HK films but I do try to have at least 1cm of overlap on the joins. I'd just take it to the spar, wrapping it around won't do any harm, but I'd take the front film back far enough to get that 1cm overlap.
  14. Can I suggest that the mods move the last two pages to a new thread for those wishing to discuss motor efficiency, electric theory and what watts do wattmeters do? Just leave those posts actually answering the OP.
  15. Some years ago Marvic Models churned out a number of designs (including iirc some DSM ones) with pre-built fuselages. I had their Wolfgang Matt Joker and found that too used veneer as a doubler from the wing seat to the engine bulkhead so I don't think it was the builder of your model's idea but the kit supplier.
  16. 3" off the span shouldn't be the end of the world. It will fly a little faster, and as Peter points out, stall at a slightly higher speed. Me, I'd look on it as a typical classic aerobatic model from the 70s and fly it as such - ballistic! I'd look for 150W/lb so 750-800W though more would be ok. 600-700kv motor on 6S or 700-800kv on 4S at a guess, 11*7 for 6S or 13*8 for 4S prop? It might be worth looking for the Crescent/PBM Bullet builds to see what was used on those.
  17. Was liteply so popular when that kit came out or would they have been marine grade ply originally? Either way, I'd have expected a hardwood wedge to join things up at the red arrow and better lower spar integration at the root, even for a 90 two stroke of the time. Certainly these larger designs were pared down to the bone but that's just poor design. My own gripe is with Flair Scouts in the way the wing root sheet ends abruptly and the lack of support around the trailing edge and spar at the aileron cut out (Baronette particularly) creating stress points. As for updating power trains, yes, it needs to be done with care.
  18. Now don't be like that Paul, there's always loads of us lurkers watching from the shadows!
  19. Nope, it's a polarising sleeve in my book. It has neither pins nor receptacles so is gender-neutral. For RC use it turns a plug into a sleeved plug.
  20. I use the SXR tools in both OpenTX and Ethos to configure S series receivers and don't find it that hard to do. Bind the receiver, keep it at arms length from the tx, run the LUA script from the Tools menu and give the receiver time to save each step of the configuration. Ch 5 and 6 can be set to Ail2/Ele2 or Aux5/6 in which case, as Matty points out, they are not affected by the gyros.
  21. Do you know the person selling it and trust their workmanship? It might be new components but it's still second hand so I'd say it's ok but no bargain. Check it's been put together square, then as ES said, reinforce the engine bulkhead and U/C mount. Personally I think it's at the top of the price range for second hand (and 'it's all new' cuts no ice there).
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