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Bob Cotsford

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Everything posted by Bob Cotsford

  1. I think they missed out with swapping the 6 position switch for half a dozen on-off buttons. I used mine as throttle cut as it can't easily be knocked on by accident and I know others miss the functionality. What's with the R9M they supply as part of the combo pack, why would they supply it as a DIY project requiring leads to be soldered on in order to connect it to the R8-Pro? I guess it is effectively a freebie as the price difference to the tx only is more than covered by the R8-Pro. Next to transfer the models that I've set up on my X10S to see if they work, copying between the X10S and X12S worked so fingers crossed!
  2. After playing with Ethos on an X10S and X12S I would be happy using it in it's present state even though there are still a few advanced features missing, most notable for me being calculated sensor values. All the basic functions are there for the majority of modellers though there are areas that need tidying up. I've ordered an X20 to play with and should have that in my grubby mitts in 4 or 5 hours ?. I've done this with the full understanding that the software is really only up to beta test standards and will need frequent updates for a while. I've stated this elsewhere - in my view FrSky have put the X20/X20S on open sale prematurely, they should have been sold with a big sticker saying 'BETA INITIAL RELEASE FOR ASSESSMENT ONLY' on all advertising or better still, offered for sale to a larger control group for assessment with a commensurate discount for the guinea pig status. The X20s should not have gone on open sale until Ethos was at least 95% complete and included some of the more advanced features to equal OpenTX (is software ever 100% complete?) with a desktop application to go with it. I can only say that I've not personally had any issues with FrSky gear that have put me off, maybe I've just been lucky in my choices of gear. My expectations will be that I'll have a similar experience to when I bought my Taranis 7 years ago when OpenTX was in it's infancy. With time the X20/Ethos experience will grow and mature.
  3. While prop size can be a limiting factor on low cell count/large prop setups, current draw is usually a prime consideration. Apart from power loss/heat generation being proportional to the square of the current there's the simple matter of economics - lower current ESCs are cheaper not to mention smaller. Connectors don't need to be rated as highly, wires can be lighter gauge - I can't see where a lower current isn't a benefit.
  4. Many years ago I had a Chippahawk powered by an Enya 60III-BB cross flow motor and that made a lovely combination. While modern schneurle 40-46 motors might turn out the same BHP I doubt that they will do it at the same rpm, and I seriously would not expect the same performance on a 12 or 13" prop appropriate for a 70" model! If you don't mind your 2ST screaming then no doubt it would fly ok-ish?. A 60 or 70 FS would be ok, an 80 would be a bit OTT but not by that much. Are Skyways part kits actually being made? I'd swear that link and it's prices haven't changed in the last 5 years.
  5. From the reports on RCGroups and issue on github the switches operate as 6 independent switches, ie if you used them for flight modes you would be able to select up to 6 modes at the same time. I would have expected it to work in the way you describe but that doesn't seem to be the way of things.
  6. One issue that's been raised is that the 6 buttons act as 6 individual on/off controls so can't be used to replace the Horus 6 position switch, eg for flight modes. A gross mistake in my opinion that they were not configured as 6 position changeover! It's been raised on Github so that might be different in future versions of Ethos. I've played with Ethos on my X10S and X12S and so far I'd say it will provide everything needed for 95% of flyers and may be an easier transition than OpenTX for most.
  7. Martin, I couldn't agree more about the roll misadventures and while I agree that a completed stall turn should ideally take up no more than a wingspan I'm pretty sure that performing it away from the flightline used to be stated as an emphasis of the principle that you keep the motor pointing away as far as is possible. Having witnessed aerobatics performed far too close to the flightline on many occasions I don't think it's a bad habit to get into.
  8. Isn't it to keep in line with the general safety principal that turns/manoeuvres should be performed away from the flightline wherever possible?
  9. All the info from RCGroups in post #1
  10. I've got to agree with Chris, if it passes at 82dBa then my advice would be to get the noise meter calibrated! In my years flying IC at a noise sensitive site where every model was tested using an officially calibrated meter I never got anything over a 100 through short of a nod and a wink and an unofficial agreement to avoid full throttle and to keep the model low and close. I think 83-84dBa for an 18" prop was doing well, but the soft exhaust tone of low revving engines (<9K) makes them appear quieter hence the nod'n'wink tolerance.
  11. The best I had was when the Indian chappy on the line finally twigged that I was stringing him along, somewhere around where I'd had my temporal lobe removed following a bump. I think he had a complete breakdown as he just started screaming '* YOU * YOU *YOU' over and over while in the background I could hear him hammering on his desk. Quite made my day did that ?
  12. Bob Cotsford

    RCV58CD

    The 90CD that I had sounded like a bag of spanners until it warmed up!
  13. In the past I've tended to set the top wing at -1 degrees relative to the lower and that's worked ok. It sounds to me as if it's nose heavy (nose drops off power, sluggish handling) and a little overpowered (zoom climb on opening the taps). Vague elevator control may just be a factor of the design and short of a tail end rebuild with a larger tail you may be stuck with that - you did say that the elevator connection is free moving, slop free and with no flex didn't you? edit - looking back at the photos the tail area looks to be more than enough. I'd go back over the control system for the elevators and ailerons checking for slop, flex or stickiness and then check that the rigging doesn't allow any flex in the wings. Other than that could it just be a characteristic caused by the tubby fuselage?
  14. Didn't SLEC do servo cases with linear and rotary output options that were used by a variety of manufacturers and kits? I'm sure Skyleader offered a similar servo. My Horizon 8 also had the mains transformer in the tx case with a flylead for charging the rx DEAC packs.
  15. Allan, is mode 3 throttle right? Might be worth seeing what happens if you set it for mode 4.
  16. It will be interesting seeing how those Corona wing servos hold up. I know they're rated at 5kg.cm or thereabouts but the slim control arms and small diameter of the output shaft made me wonder just how much load they would really take. Saying that they have worked well when I've used them for ailerons or flaps on .60 size models.
  17. I had a pestilence of tiger lilies a few years back and none of the over the counter weed killers would touch them. They just lapped it up and if anything multiplied even faster. This was about the time I gave up using IC motors so while clearing out old fuel bottles I tried dosing the lillies with some castor based SM stuff that had been lingering at the back of the shed. Within days they were dead to the tips of their roots but of course nothing else will grow there now. Note - methanol in the runoff or drains is not appreciated by the waterboard!
  18. That captures the essence of IC engines for me, whether it's a little Cox .010 or a 1L superbike. Unfortunately while the awe remains the simplicity and ease of operation of electrickery has become of more importance for me of late.
  19. It's the magnets that you want to keep the swarf off more than the bearings, which as Chris says are normally shielded.
  20. http://www.profili2.com/ is the usual recommendation for wing ribs
  21. The simplest way to create a new model is to simply clone an existing one from the Model Select menu, then edit the name, picture etc. Even better, create a model and call it 'Template' or similar, add all the bells and whistles you will ever use and copy that when you need a new model.
  22. It's a shame that they didn't think to put the LED on a flylead seeing as it's a useful indicator of what's going on normally besides being pretty essential for calibration.
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