Bob Cotsford

Copy the SD card contents to the SD card for your Taranis using file explorer, though unless you are updating from OpenTX version 1.9 you can probably get away with just overwriting the opentx.sdcard.version file. Have you got the right SD contents though? V0021 is what I see for the v2.2.4 image here. V0035 is the card image for OpenTX 2.3.11. ps - only copy the contents of the SD card image, it's easy to end up creating a folder called 'SDcard' on your SD card!

David Ashby has apologised for this in an earlier thread, the Covid situation was stated as being the reason for both lack of content and the missing issue. IIRC other publications were actually suspended for several months so perhaps we should consider ourselves lucky to have only lost one issue plus the free bonus issue? Yes, we paid for twelve and were promised a bonus 'Special' but do you really want to insist on your pound of flesh (value around a fiver last time I looked at one off issue prices or £4ish at subscription rates) when so many companies have already gone to the wall?

I get one of these every few days, sometimes by text and sometimes by email, straight to the spam folder with them. Whenever RM really wanted money in the past they've popped a card through the letterbox.

That airframe and engine was my first successful foray into propo using a Horizon 8 that I bought second hand from a shop in Quinton - Hobby Spot or something? I picked up a kit on E-bay the other year with the intention of building it for electric power. I don't think I'll be finishing it in Powermax paints over doped tissue though.

It's possible with pretty much any image anywhere, on any site or just in Google search results. Right click on the image and select Copy or Save As.

Yes, but maybe change one of the icons to a thumbs up - ? - rather than a love heart - ❤️? Might be a bit less generation Z and more acceptable on what is really a blokey sort of forum.

Matt, as I originally said - "a possibility"!

A second-hand plan built Rhoma with an ED Hunter 3.49 and ED superhet valve gear so it probably carried more weight in batteries than balsa. That crashed into the school craft block on the first attempt at a flight.

Matt, I was referring to an Ethos firmware port to download for installation in current X12Ss rather than a new release of X12S transmitters with Ethos (ethOS?) factory installed. I am just going by what Jetflier on RCG and the other beta testers have said while posting within the terms of their NDAs.

At least one beta tester on RCGroups has already loaded the X10 version of Ethos, a future version for the X12S is also a possibility. Eventually...

Chris, there is an SD card which is reportedly used to hold much the same as an X10/X12S running OpenTX - models, images, radio settings etc. so I would imagine that model files could be copied between SD cards while waiting for the Ethos PC application to make an appearance.

As an early adopter on the original VFT module system, the following DFT system, the first batch X9D and then a first gen X12S I must be one lucky guineapig as the only issues I've had were when a batch of V8R receivers were fitted with out of spec capacitors which were prone to going pop on power-up. I've got itchy fingers, I want an X20 to play with but I may just grit my teeth and wait for Ethos to be released for my X10S. Converting from OpenTX to Ethos shouldn't be such a big deal for me as I fly only electric models with standard switch, mixer and telemetry display setups so I can just pick my most complex setup, convert that then clone it for other models. My biggest concern is that FrSky developed a unique module bay for recent transmitters rather than sticking with the standard JR bay. Now third party modules such as the various MPM units need to be developed specifically for the FrSky Lite bay and submitted to FrSky for approval and inclusion in Ethos. This seems to cutting off their own noses to spite a couple of former employees. The big question? How long will I resist the lure of the Buy Now buttons??

Especially when the screwdriver (or in the video, metal rod) pulls out and gets launched straight at you. If you try this please use a corkscrew dog stake as your ground anchor!

Basil, what would a scale sized prop be? It all depends on what cell count you use, the 18" would be for a 5S pack while 16" would be for 6S. I gave you the figures for a 5055 motor by mistake, your 5065 will actually draw something like 80-100W more on the props that I quoted. If you want smaller props you might have been better off with a higher kv motor, say 430kv.

If this is the Keith Humber plan then it was rated for .40-.61 2 stroke glow motors according to the Sarik site notes, say 600-800W equivalent. According to E-calc your SK3 will give around 700W turning an 18*10 prop on 5S or 670W turning a 16*8 on 6S, both options giving a pitch speed of just over 50mph. As Geoff says you shouldn't need to go near 50A (more likely 40A) so a 60A esc should be ok.

MkI or II rather than the MkIII which is what most of us think of as a Halifax. Earlier marks had the front turret, inline engines and triangular fins.

B&Q used to stock those strips of straps, they are fine for 3 or 4S but I wouldn't want to rely on one of them to retain something like a 6S 5000 pack. I usually glue them to the underside of the battery tray with a dab of contact adhesive.

That photo gives scale to the project David, it should have some presence in the air?

Heating the screwhead with the tip of a soldering iron can sometimes help too. I'm surprised the Torx bit didn't work, I've never had it fail - touch wood! If I can't find a suitable size torx bit I've sometimes found that an imperial key will tap in tightly enough to get the screw moving. I think that the impact of hammering it in helps to break up any crud holding the thread.

Why did Flair do many of the things that they did? I've just remembered the last model I used Flair paints on, an Eros. I did the fuselage in Flair yellow rattle cans. The first can set ok, but the next can that I tried wouldn't dry. Flair did give me more cans to try (their HQ was only 30 minutes away from me) but these were no better. As a last roll of the dice before trying to wash the fuselage of the wet paint I tried putting a coat of the clear on top in the hope that it would act as a catalyst. It worked, kept it's colour and proved fuel proof. After that I kept well clear of Flair/Spectra/Guild paints until I stopped flying glo powered models.

Andy, they did a clear 'fuelproofer' in satin and gloss, both rubbish IMHO, but they also did a 'Gloss Clear' which smelt more like a normal poly paint and was quite good as a proofer for the 5% fuels that I used. It also stayed crystal clear with no yellowing - at least for the life of the models I used it on!

Flair/Guild made two clear lacquers, Gloss Clear and Clear Fuelproofer. The one marketed as fuelproofer had a particularly toxic smell to it. As Andy stated, it was far from fuelproof and was prone to turning rubbery and separating from the colour layers it was supposed to protect even with a mild 5% fuel. Oddly the Gloss Clear was reasonably resistant to glow! Clearcoat with a week to cure was/is in a different (ie better) class.

I used to use lengths cut from the old-fashioned curtain wire, the plastic coated spiral wound stuff. It looked a lot like your spring once the plastic sleeve was cut off and was a good fit on most plugs. I used a self-tapper screwed into the other end to connect the lead via a crimped tag. Cheap, easy to make and any length you like. I've also used a biro spring inside a length of fuel tube on smaller engines.

Who remembers kits with foam wings where the ailerons were operated by embedded snakes from a central servo with a huge radius sweeping back round through 90 degrees to the control horn? Now THAT was a sloppy setup! ?