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Adrian Smith 1

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  1. Really all that needs to be done is wait for some decent weather to do the maiden. Hope you found this thread of interest. I will try to post a video after the deed.
  2. The canopy fixing is fool proof by the looks of it. there is a ply catch which fits into a sprung pin. The mechanism is a bit stiff, but better that than too loose. I will have to be a bit careful as some have report splitting the canopy corners due to rough treatment.
  3. The aileron next to be done. Set at 35 deg (vs 38 deg). I will probably dial in 40 % of Expo when I see how she performs. I may have to tone the ailerons down a bit with hindsight, but I will see.
  4. Back to the work shop after a week of supervising bathroom fitters ........ Time set the working surfaces. starting with the elevators. Set them at 25 degs vs 20 degs for "general flying". Same methodology for the rudder at 30degs (vs 35 deg), then finished the pushrods with keepers and blue thread locker for the nuts.
  5. Are there enough free spaces on club lists to accommodate any potential influx?
  6. You can see from my pictures my work shop needs a jolly good tidy up! Probably do it after this project .......
  7. Next work shop visit will be to set the working surfaces. The manual suggests the aileron deflection as 20 deg with 40% expo, elevators 20 deg deflection, 40% expo and rudder 35 deg with 40% expo as a starting point. Full 3D aeros suggest 38deg aileron deflection & 60% expo, elevators 55 deg deflection & 50% expo with the rudder 45deg deflection and 50% expo. I will report back on the process.
  8. Te layout I settled on was as per photo. All of the weight needs to be at the front and as a result I used a bigger RX battery than I would have chosen. Plenty of room for positioning the RX and switch.
  9. Now the fun of CoG balance. Helpfully the optimum mark is engraved on the inside of the fuselage. Judicious positioning of the lipos gave me a good starting point.
  10. After some thought I decided to change the spinner provided to one that has a alloy plate. It did need a bit of filing out to accommodate the 17 x 10 prop though. Cowl added plus prop with another motor test. All seems well.
  11. Next up I tidied up the motor/ESC wires with heat shrink and a nylon tie before refitting the cowl.
  12. Time to give some thought to the layout internally of the electronics. I am using a separate 2S power source for the RX (as the ESC is an Opto version). The Hitec servos are 6volt operating limit there I will use a voltage regulator with an in line switch. I can then check the working surfaces without the motor being "live" and just use heavy duty connectors to connect the motor directly to a 6S lipo. I can then try various positions for the lipos to get the CoG where I want it on the next workshop visit.
  13. Next I tackled the reinforcement of the motor box. Here I used thin ply on the sides. The top of the main box has already had a rib and triangular stock added. I just added ply to the sides here at least so I had some access to the extension box bolts. I only sheeted the sides of the extension box for the same reasons. In truth having run the motor and putting pressure on the motor box manually by trying to twist it I am not convinced this is at all necessary. Hey Ho bolt & braces and all that! I used 30 minute epoxy by the way.
  14. All nice and tidy. I tend to angle the rear of the spats up slightly to keep the rear end off the ground on take off and landing.
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