PatMc

Isn't that quite a bit closer to home for you ?

Sorry, I think we've both misread the meaning in each other's posts. To be clear using a slow tick over setting with electric power allows the prop to freewheel even if the esc is set to brake when power off.

Oh yes you will.

The T31M has so much built in drag that I doubt the very small spoilers would make much noticeable difference to the descent angle. IMO a better option would be to hold the throttle to a slow tick over & let the prop create the drag.

David, I think that you posted this 10 days too late. 😉

I do almost the same as Dickw but cut out the servo position first & fix a piece of ply liner at the wing tip end of the void. I find that it's not necessary to heat the end of the wite to red hot.

Hi Chris, I think I've dumped some there in the past but I've also left old Nimhs & hearing aid batteries in supermarket disposal bins. I believe they are obliged to provide this facility as they sell these types of batteries.

Chris, I'm pretty certain that there's a dedicated battery disposal area at Bebside tip. You don't need to fully discharge your battery but best to cut off each main + balance wire - one at a time. PS : If you do want to discharge it first - plug the battery into a model & run the motor at full throttle until LV cut then re-start at low throttle & repeat.

I always use a piece of tinplate instead of one magnet. That's always been strong enough & avoids the chance of accidentaly fitting magnets with like poles together.

http://<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Su66N7q1AXI?si=iyX00NAjvqRZ17fM" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>Just spotted this revived post. It's probably over 30 years since I built the Diamond but I will have started with the cg on the sketch (No plan supplied) that came with the fuselage & wing blanks, however I know that I moved the cg back as far as I felt comfortable with over several slope side flights using the "dive test" method. The model first flew rudder & elevator only but although it performed very well in thermal & slope comps at Primrose Valley holiday weeks the rudder response was poor. At the time I had intended using it in BARCS 100s comps (RE only) but gave up on the idea & modified the wings for ailerons set up as spoilerons. This made a huge difference to the overall handling. I'd be interested to know what weight other peoples Diamonds are, especially the electric powered one by @Sheepish, mine is a portly 2600g but still out-soars Alulas even in light wind conditions.

Used them with models on both 2.4Ghz & 35 Mhz, no problems despite often close proximity between magnets & aerial/Rx.

I have a pair of them, I believe they are actually re-badged Himax 3615/1600 Link gives some useful data but I think pre-dates general lipo usage. Used one of mine in an old Protech Unlimited (hot liner with plastic fuselage) on 3s with an Graupner 8x4.5 prop which gave about the same power as an Olly Tiger diesel. Great little model 🖕

Of course an ic prop could be a wooden one (as on Leccyflyer's Magnatilla), which would likely be lighter than an E prop.

The wattmeter only measures the power input. I fail to see how it could confirm the difference in performance or efficiency of diferent props.

IMO the wing incidence WRT the thrust line is more important. The elevator can be used to effectively sort out the tailplane/wing incidence but fettling it before you glue the tailplane in place would be better. Never had a Wot 4 but with a sports aerobatic model my own choice would be 0-0 wing/tail incidence.

Solartex doesn't need any extra glue to stick to itself but it's best to use the lowest temp that activates the adhesive or it will distort the edge of the overlaying fabric. Some examples below of vintage models covered in Solartex with no paint used & except for the letters on the Jnr 60 all other decor is from Solartex scraps cut by hand & carefully applied at relatively low temp. The Jnr 60 was about 16 years old when the pic was taken in 2002, it's since been refurbed, recovered in a different scheme & converted to electric. The Robot was also originally ic powered but later electrocuted. In third pic because of a wing warping problem the Deacon wings are "blushing" as they had recently been given a coat of dope in dampish conditions.

Quote from Wiki : (Kirk's youngest son, Eric) Douglas entered British comedy folklore when, during a stand-up performance at The Comedy Store, London, he was angered by the audience's reaction to his stand-up routine. In a moment that would lead to club co-founder Don Ward saying he had "died on his arse", Douglas shouted "You can't do this to me, I'm Kirk Douglas's son!" A member of the audience then stood up and shouted, "No, I'm Kirk Douglas' son," ... This ended up with the majority of the audience standing up and repeating the line.

Sorry to here that Matty. Best wishes for a full & speedy recovery mate.

Welcome back @DavyW22, I'm a long time Blyth club member (actually since the club was formed). I haven't been active for about the last 3 years or so but hopefully I will be flying again in the next few months. Here's a link to the BVRMC website you might find helpful in making contact or the next club night meeting is 7pm Thursday next week if you want to say hello. Look forward to seeing you soon, Pat.

Erfolg, looks like you're model is experiencing "phugoids", there's a good description & explanation in Wiki of the probable cause. Re your clubmates' reaction to the vertical climbing Saggitas : you could point out that since the wings are not contributing any lift during a vertical climb it's actually less stressful on them than a "gentle" scale like climb. Also that the speed of a vertical climb isn't actually as fast as it might appear to be, a typical 30 sec burst that takes a model to 200mtrs is only 15mph.

That's not 5.7v under load, is it ? What voltage is the battery holding whilst the servo tester is being used/attempting to be used ?

The motor is only as powerful as the supply voltage & load (i.e. the prop) it drives. The limiting factor for any motor is actually the current, which is stated in the spec for this motor as 30A . The power given in the spec must be when using a 4s lipo. If that motor was used on 2s lipo the max power would be 225W but that would be achieved using a larger prop at lower rpm. However the 225W power could easily be reduced simply by choosing a prop to suit the power required. Advantages are the drop in fit & fact that the motor would be used at below it's max current meaning it would have an easy life. IMO big disadvantage with this motor is the puny 3.2mm dia shaft. I would want a 5mm shaft in an inrunner of this size - reason being that if the shaft got accidently bent, say in a bad arrival, it would be impossible to change whereas changing a shaft on most outrunners is a simple job. The model below, Igor, is a "bitsa" I made a while back using a similar fus to the EP & a spare 72" wing. Motor is an Emax BL2815/09 despite it's ragged looks Igor climbed to 200m in 30 secs from launch using a 3s lipo & had a better than expected glide performance. The motor doesn't seem to be available now in the UK but 4Max list an equivalent albeit 1090Kv instead of 920Kv. Also the 4Max motor includes a rear mount + bolt on prop driver as standard however a collet type prop drive is listed in the spares for £3.95. If you're interested in how I tackled the outrunner motor fitting I can dig out & post some pics. PS Igor use 3s lipo with 250W power & weighed 950g.

You may as well get a brushed motor ESC & 2 s lipo as follow this recent advice. It would be cheaper & IMO prove no less unsatisfactory.

But he's sensible enough to always asks for advice on the choice of any gizmo he hasn't used before or for a long time. 😉

Somehow, I don't think Erfolg will be fitting retracts to his DB Mascot. 😉